2002 Ford Focus Electrical System Problems

REAR RIGHT PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK/OPEN. WHEN TRYING TO UNLOCK I DON'T HEAR THE SOLENOID MOVING. WHEN TRYING TO OPEN FROM EITHER INSIDE OR OUT IF FEELS LIKE THE HANDLE ISN'T MOVING ANYTHING.

HATCH SWITCH FAILED .GHOST ELECTRICAL PROBLEM HAVING WIPER COME ON AT TIMES.WIRING HARNESS INSIDE RUBBER BOOT LOCATED WHERE HINGES BETWEEN HATCH AND VEHICLE BODY DEVELOPE BARE AND BROKEN WIRES. FOUND THIS AFTER CHECKING ALL FUSES AND SWITCHES. THIS IS APPARENTLY COMMON AS SEEN ON YOU TUBE AND SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN PREVIOUSLY REPORTED. PLEASE REPLY AS TO WHY THERE HAS BEEN NO RECALL. SURELY DEALERS HAVE ENCOUNTERED THIS DEFECT. LIKE ONE INDIVIDUAL SAID HIS DOG COULD HAVE FLEW OUT THE REAR GOING 70. NOT TO MENTION FIRE.MINE BLEW NO FUSES. *TR

EVER SINCE I HAVE HAD THIS CAR AND SINCE THE WARRANTY RAN OUT IN 2005, I HAVE NOTHING BUT REPAIRS. FIRST, THE RADIO NEEDED TO BE REPLACES, THEN THE BRAKES, THEN THE LOCKS ON BOTH DOORS AND THEN THE BRAKES AGAIN, HIGH BEAM LIGHT NEVER GOES OFF, ALWAYS ON AND NOW THE RADIATOR. THIS CAR IS 12 YEARS OLD, HAS LESS THAN 50,000 MILES ON IT AND IT HAS BEEN NOTHING BUT TROUBLE. I LIVE ON A LIMITED INCOME AND CANNOT AFFORD ALL THESE REPAIRS AND FORD COULD CARE LESS. IF I EVER BUY ANOTHER CAR, IT WILL NOT BE A FORD. THIS IS WHY THE NAME STANDS FOR: FIX OR REPAIR DAILY. I AM NOT ASKING FOR MONEY BUT IF YOU WANT TO THROW SOME MY WAY THANKS AND IF NOT THANKS. *TR

IGNITION CYLINDER IN STEERING COLUMN IS FROZEN. KEY INSERTS BUT WILL NOT TURN AT ALL. CANNOT START THE CAR, SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL, ETC. *TR

DECKLID WIRING HARNESS CAN FATIGUE AND DEVELOP BROKEN WIRES IN THE BEND AREA OF THE HINGE. SIMILAR TO NHTSA RECALL ID# 00V411000. CONSEQUENCES: THIS COULD RESULT IN EITHER A LOSS OF INDIVIDUAL LAMP FUNCTIONS, OR IN THE CASE OF A SHORT OF THE BROKEN WIRES THAT CAUSES A FUSE TO OPEN, IN THE LOSS OF STOP LAMP OR TAIL LAMP FUNCTION. LOSS OF STOP LAMP OR TAIL LAMP FUNCTION COULD INCREASE THE RISK OF A CRASH. *TR

VEHICLE TOWED TO FORD DEALER BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT START. UPON INSPECTION, DEALERSHIP FOUND FRONT SUB FRAME COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH. SAID IT IS "ONE POTHOLE AWAY FROM THE ENGINE FALLING OUT; TOTALLY UNSAFE TO DRIVE." RUSTING ALSO CAUSED CORROSION IN WIRES FROM IGNITION TO STARTER, RESULTING IN CAR NOT STARTING. THIS CAR WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW, HAS BEEN GARAGE KEPT, ONLY DRIVEN 5,000 MILES PER YEAR BY ELDERLY COUPLE. OBVIOUSLY THE METAL USED IN SUB FRAME WAS NOT PROPERLY COATED. WILL COST THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO FIX, IF IT IS DEEMED WORTH FIXING! SOMEONE COULD HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY HURT OR KILLED IF THIS ENGINE HAD INDEED FALLEN OUT WHILE IN MOTION! *TR

CAR WHEN WARMED UP AND DURING INTERCITY DRIVING WILL RANDOMLY CUT OUT WHEN THE ACCELERATOR IS NOT DEPRESSED. CAR SHUTS OFF AND BECOMES HARD TO STEER AND CONTROL. HAVE ALMOST BEEN HIT AND NO ONE CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT'S WRONG. IT DOES THIS INTERMITTENTLY. ALSO THE CAR HAS THE UPDATED THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND THE THERMOSTAT STILL TENDS TO OVERHEAT. HAVE CONTACTED FORD AND CALL CENTER EMPLOYEE DID NOT SEEM TOO ENTHUSIASTIC TO HELP. OFFERED TO FIND ME A FORD DEALER BUT NOT SOMEONE FROM THEIR SAFETY OFFICE. ALSO, CAR HAD OLD STYLE IGNITION CYLINDER WHICH LOCKED BACK IN FEBRUARY. THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM... AFTERMARKET HAVE THE SAME DESIGN. *TR

THE MOTOR ON THE SUN ROOF AND ALL OF MY WINDOWS WENT OUT THE HANDLE ON DOOR FOR THE FRONT PASSENGER FELL OFF THE ,REAR DOOR ON THE PASSENGER SIDE ON THE INSIDE JUST FELL APART SOMETIMES YOU CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE ITS LIKE THEY FREEZE UP AND A DAY LATER THEY OPEN (THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE ) SOMETIMES MY CAR JUST DIES OUT AND ALL OF THE PANEL GOES BLANK LIKE IT JUST SHUTS DOWN. *TR

VEHICLE RUNS FINE WHEN WE GO INTO SCHOOL/BUSINESS OR WHAT EVER WE PARK AND COME OUT AND THE VEHICLE DOES NOT START, AFTER 1/2 HOUR TO AN HOUR THE VEHICLE STARTS AND NO PROBLEMS. IT TURNS OVER BUT DOES NOT FIRE. NEW BATTERY DID NOT CHANGE IT. TUNE UP BY A CERTIFIED MECHANIC DID NOT FIX ISSUE, PLUG IT INTO A TEST MACHINE NO CODES GIVEN. THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN ALL THE TIME, EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE. ISSUE IS THAT A YOUNG LADY DRIVES THE VEHICLE, IF SHE IS STUCK IN THE WRONG PARKING LOT WHO KNOWS WHAT CAN HAPPEN. GOD FORBID. *TR

ALTERNATOR PULLING TO MUCH FIRE FROM THE BATTERY. *TR

NOTICED THAT MY DASH BOARD HIGH BEAM FOR MY HEADLIGHTS WAS STAYING ON. TOOK TO WHEEL WORKS AND THEY TOLD ME ITS THE WIRING HARNESS FOR MY HEADLIGHTS. THEY TOLD ME IT IS MELTING AND NEED TO TAKE TO THE DEALER. I BOUGHT MY CAR BRAND NEW AND PAID CASH FOR IT WITH EXTRAS ADDED ON TO IT. I HAVE HAD MULTIPLE PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR AND I GET NO HELP. I NEED TO KNOW IF THIS HAS BEEN ON A RECALL. I AM ON A VERY LIMITED INCOME AND CANNOT AFFORD THIS TO COME OUT OF MY POCKET. *TR

WHILE WAITING AT A CONSTRUCTION SITE THE ENGINE DIED AND WOULD NOT START (THE ENGINE INDICATOR LIT). THE BRAKE LIGHTS, POWER WINDOWS, AND REAR HATCH RELEASE ALSO FAILED TO FUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED AND THE PERSONAL MECHANIC REPORTED THE ELECTRICAL HARNESS TO THE REAR HATCH HAD FAILED WHERE IS PASSED BETWEEN THE BODY AND THE HATCH DOOR. THE HARNESS ELECTRICAL INSULATION WAS CRACKED ON THE ENTIRE BUNDLE OF WIRES AND SHEDDING FRAGMENTS CAUSING SOME WIRES TO SHORT, THE 15 AMP FUSE FOR THE BRAKE LIGHTS HAD EVIDENCE OF HEATING, BUT DID NOT BLOW, RATHER, WIRES LEADING TO THE BRAKE PEDAL SENSOR, THE 15 AMP FUSE, AND ALONG THE HARNESS BACK TO THE SHORT IN THE REAR WIRING HARNESS NEAR THE CENTER BRAKE LIGHT HAD DISCOLORED AND WERE MELTED IN SOME SEGMENTS. FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE SAID TO CONSULT A FORD SERVICE CENTER TO DETERMINE IF THERE WAS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE FORD SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE SAID HE HAD SEEN THIS BEFORE AND SAID IT WAS NOT A MANUFACTURING DEFECT, RATHER IT WAS A DESIGN DEFECT THAT OCCURS AFTER 10 YEARS OR MORE. *TR

BATTERY CABLES SHORTED OUT CAUSING SMALL FIRE ON BATTERY CABLES AND MELTING ON BOTH BATTERY CABLES. *TR

I DROVE MY FORD FOCUS ABOUT 6 MILES TO A STOP LIGHT. WHEN IT TURNED GREEN, I PRESSED THE GAS. THE CAR STALLED LIKE IT WAS OUT OF GAS, REGAINED PARTIAL POWER, AND DISPLAYED THE AIRBAG LIGHT. IT MADE IT TO THE NEXT STOPLIGHT, AND I PULLED IT OVER TO THE SIDE AND TURNED IT OFF AND REMOVED THE KEY. AT THAT POINT A PLUME OF WHITE SMOKE SHOT OUT OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE HOOD. I TOLD MY SON TO GET OUT BECAUSE I KNEW THE CAR WAS ON FIRE. WE WALKED AWAY, AND AS WE DID, THE AMOUNT OF SMOKE INCREASED EXPONENTIALLY. WITHIN MINUTES, THE FRONT END OF THE CAR WAS TOTALLY ENGULFED IN FLAMES. THE WINDSHIELD SHATTERED AND MELTED, THE HOOD WAS CHARRED AND BLACK, THE PLASTIC PARTS OF THE FENDERS AND BUMPERS MELTED AWAY, AND PART OF THE BODY METAL BURNED AWAY ON THE HOOD AND THE FENDERS. EVERYTHING UNDER THE HOOD WAS MELTED, DISTORTED, OR OTHERWISE DESTROYED. I KEPT THE CAR VERY WELL MAINTAINED, MAKING SURE TO FIX EVERYTHING THAT WAS EVER WRONG WITH IT IMMEDIATELY UPON DISCOVERY. I KEPT UP ON ALL OIL CHANGES. IT IS PERPLEXING THAT A CAR WHICH IS SO WELL KEPT WOULD SPONTANEOUSLY SELF-IGNITE, HOWEVER THERE HAVE BEEN ACCOUNTS OF FIRES IN THE FORD FOCUS SINCE 2000, AND MANY SINCE. NOW I HAVE ADDED ONE MORE. THE CAR, OBVIOUSLY, IS A TOTAL LOSS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO START THE IGNITION NUMEROUS TIMES HOWEVER, THE IGNITION KEY FAILED TO TURN IN ANY DIRECTION. THE KEY WAS EVENTUALLY RELEASED FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE CONTACT PLANNED TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 115,000.

I HAD MY 81 YEAROLD MOTHER WITH ME, I TURNED OFF THE CAR AND WHEN I TRIED TO START IT THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN. IT WAS NOT UNTIL 5 DAYS LATER THAT MY MECHANIC SON IN LAW WAS ABLE TO LOOK AT IT AND TELL ME THE PROBLEM AND THAT A FORD GARAGE HAD TO FIXIT. THEIR PRICES VARY FROM 350.00 TO 450.00 TO REPLACE MY IGNITION SWITCH ASSEMBLY. IT IS A 48.00 PART. FORD REFUSES TO RECALL BECAUSE THEY CLAIM IT IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. IT IS IF SOMEONE HAS A HEART ATTACK OR A STROKE BECAUSE OF THE STRESS OF BEING STRANDED IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE OR BECAUSE IT IS OVER 100 DEGREES AND YOU CAN'T WALK TO A PHONE OR TURN ON THE AIR CONDITIONER. NOT EVERYONE HAS A CELL PHONE. IT IS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE PROBLEM DOES NOT OCCUR UNTIL IT IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND IT HAS TO BE REPAIRED EVERY TIME BY FORD. IT IS A SAFETY HAZARD ESPECIALLY FOR THE ELDERLY. *TR

KEY WOULD NOT TURN IN THE IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER. IGNITION KEY COULD BE INSERTED ALL THE WAY INTO THE LOCK CYLINDER, BUT KEY WOULD NOT TURN FORWARDS OR BACKWARDS TO EITHER ENGAGE THE STARTER OR TURN ON ACCESSORIES. TRIED MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL TO FREE UP THE CYLINDER AND MADE SURE THE CAR WAS IN PARK TO TRY AND TURN THE CYLINDER. NOTHING. WAS TOLD BY THE AAA MECHANIC THAT THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE WITH EARLY MODEL YEAR FORD FOCUSES. THE ISSUE, PER THE AAA TOW TRUCK OPERATOR COULD BE TEMPORARILY RESOLVED BY USING SOME WD40 ON THE KEY AND A COUPLE OF QUICK TAPS TO THE KEY WHILE IN THE LOCK CYLINDER. THIS FIX DID NOT WORK AT THIS TIME. HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE DEALER SINCE THIS WAS NOT A FIX I COULD MAKE ON MY OWN (I COULD REPLACE THE CYLINDER MYSELF, BUT THE CAR'S PASSIVE ALARM WOULD NEED TO BE RE-SET BY THE DEALER). RESULTING CHARGE WAS $378.50 FOR A PART I COULD HAVE FIXED FOR $60-70. MY LOCK CYLINDER NEEDED TO BE RE-KEYED BY THE LOCAL FORD DEALER. SAFETY ISSUE: COULD HAVE BEEN STRANDED. CAR FAILURE OCCURRED ON VERY COLD DAY. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 FORD FOCUS. WHILE PARKED, THE VEHICLE IGNITED INTO FLAMES. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT EXTINGUISHED THE MASSIVE FLAMES AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE FIRE ORIGINATED WITHIN THE BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS DECLARED AS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 96,000.

KEY WILL NOT TURN IN THE IGNITION, THEREBY PREVENTING THE CAR FROM STARTING. *TR

WENT TO LEAVE WORK YESTERDAY AND THE KEY WON'T TURN AT ALL IN MY 2002 FORD FOCUS. AFTER A QUICK INTERNET SEARCH, IT SEEMS TO BE A HUGE PROBLEM AND CONSISTENT FAILURE ON FORDS PART...BUT THEY REFUSE TO ISSUE A RECALL. FROM WHAT I'VE READ, THE DEALERSHIP CHARGES $350-450 TO REPLACE THIS PART, AND THEY REPLACE IT WITH THE SAME FAULTY DESIGNED PART THAT WAS CAUSING THE PROBLEM IN THE FIRST PLACE! *TR