2009 Honda Odyssey Body & Structure Problems

Passenger side slider won’t shut, Driver’s side slider won’t latch. Driver side door suddenly opens when driving!!!! Honda dealer Tech found worn bushing on passenger side center rollers, faulty, driver side, sliding door rear latch, passenger side, outer handle cable popped out. Check installed cable for passenger side outer handle recommended replaced driver side sliding door rear latch assembly estimated $930. Also recommended latch passenger side center rollers estimated 485.

The contact owns a 2009 Honda Odyssey. The contact stated that the front passenger’s side door failed to open. The contact’s handicapped wife was trapped in the vehicle. The contact had to remove the door handle to unlock the door. There were no warning lights illuminated. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 231,438.

SLIDING DOOR ISSUES. FIRST INCIDENT HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND MY PASSENGER SLIDING DOOR OPENED. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP AND GOT FIXED AT A COST. CONTINUED TO HAVE PROBLEMS WITH BOTH MY SLIDING DOORS NOT CLOSING PROPERLY FOR A TOTAL OF 6 TIMES. I AM NOW HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN WITH MY DRIVERS SIDE PASSENGER DOOR. THE DOORS BEEPS WHILE DRIVING AND DOES NOT CLOSE PROPERLY DRIVING OR STANDING STILL. *TR

THE LIFTGATE DOES NOT ALWAYS STAY IN THE UP POSITION. IT LIFTS TO THE TOP AND THEN DROPS QUICKLY WITH NO RESISTANCE. IT SEEMS WORSE WHEN THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE IS COLDER (BELOW 40-50 DEGREES F. THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE GAS STRUTS IN ABOUT 2012. I CALLED VIC BAILEY HONDA IN SPARTANBURG, SC. SOMEONE IN THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT SAID THEIR RECORDS SHOWED THAT THE RECALL HAD BEEN COMPLETED ON THE VEHICLE.

FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK MANUALLY OR ELECTRONICALLY. WHILE TAKING A DRIVE TO THE STORE AND UPON ARRIVING TODAY I WAS UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE DRIVER DOOR. THIS COULD PRESENT A DANGER IF FOR SOME REASON I CAN'T EXIT MY CAR IN A HURRY.

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR THAT I BELIEVE IS A DANGEROUS SAFETY ISSUE.THE DRIVERS DOOR HAS A PROBLEM WITH THE ACTUATOR, WHICH CONTROLS THE AUTOMATED LOCKING AND UNLOCKING OF THE DOOR. THE ACTUATOR IS DEFECTIVE AND NO LONGER WORKS. AS A DIRECT RESULT, THE DOOR (AND ALL OF THE REMAINING DOORS IN THE VEHICLE) WILL NO LONGER AUTOMATICALLY UNLOCK. IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY, THE DOOR LATCH TO OPEN AND EXIT THE CAR IMMEDIATELY WILL NOT WORK. THE DOOR KNOB MUST BE MANUALLY LIFTED; THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO UNLOCK THE DOOR. PRIOR TO THIS ISSUE, THE VEHICLE DOOR SWOULD AUTOMATICALLY UNLOCK WHEN THE CAR WAS PLACED IN PARK POSITION AND THEN LOCKED WHEN THE CAR WAS MOVED OUT OF PARK (EITHER REVERSE, NEUTRAL OR DRIVE). I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THIS IS A $400 REPAIR TO REPLACE THE ARM ACTUATOR. THIS PART SPECIFICALLY CONTROLS THE AUTOMATED LOCKING/UNLOCKING MECHANISM FOR THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR (AND ALL OTHER DOORS OF THE MINIVAN, WHICH MUST ALL BE MANUALLY UNLOCKED SINCE THIS PART IS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY). I HAVE TRIED TO USE THE DOOR LEVER TO OPEN THE CAR AND WHEN IT IS IN THE LOCKED POSITION, THE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK, EVER. THE DOOR KNOB MUST BE LIFTED IN ALL INSTANCES AND I BELIEVE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ALL PASSENGERS IN THE VEHICLE.

PAINT IS PEELING OFF THE CAR, LEADING TO POSSIBLE PREMATURE RUSTING AND REDUCED SAFETY OF VEHICLE

DRIVERS SIDE SLIDING DOOR LATCHING MECHANISM WONT LATCH A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN WITH KIDS IN BACK SEAT

THE AUTOMATIC SIDE DOORS. THE LEFT SLIDING DOOR WHEN YOU GO TO OPEN THE DOOR IT OPENS JUST ALITTLE AND THEN CLOSES I HAVE TO HAVE MY KIDS NOT TO GET TO FAST ON TRYING TO GET OUT CAUSE IT HAS ALMOST CLOSED ON ONE OF THEIR LEGS. THE LEFT DOOR ALL NO LONGER OPENS FROM THE DOOR HANDLE ONLY FROM THE OUTSIDE HANDLE OR THE BUTTON THE DRIVER CAN PUSH. IT ALSO WHEN IT IS OPEN AND YOU GO TO CLOSE IT IT WILL START TO CLOSE THEN REOPEN. SOMETIME I HAVE TO PUT THE VAN IN REVERSE OR DRIVE TO GET THE DOOR TO EVEN CLOSE. SOMETIMES I CAN GET IT TO CLOSE WHILE OPEN WITH THE INSIDE HANDLE BUT I HAVE TO BE CAREFUL CAUSE IT'S CLOSED ON MY ARM A FEW TIMES PLUS SEEMS LIKE THE SENSOR THE DOOR IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE ON THE DOOR TO TELL SOMEONE OR SOMETHING IS THE DOESN'T WORK THE RIGHT SLIDING DOOR IS ALSO STARTING TO DO THE SAME THING SINCE I'VE BEEN HAVING MY KIDS TRY TO USE THAT DOOR MORE. I'M AFRAID MY KIDS OR WHOEVER IS IN THE VAN AT ANY TIME IS GONNA END UP TRAPPED AND NO ABLE TO GET OUT IN AN EMERGENCY OR ANYTHING AND FOR BIGGER KIDS AND ADULTS IT'S HARDER TO CLIMB OVER SEATS. AND ALSO THE DRIVER DOORS AUTOMATICALLY LOCK BUT WHEN YOU TRY TO GO AND UNLOCK IT IT WILL LOCK BACK SO YOU HAVE TO UNLOCK MANUALLY.

THE POWER SLIDING DOOR ON THE DRIVER SIDE FELL OFF. THE DOOR WAS STICKING AND WOULD NOT SLIDE CLOSED, SO I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE DOOR. WHEN I TRIED TO MANUALLY CLOSE THE DOOR, THE DOOR PULLED OFF THE TRACK. I COULD NOT GET THE DOOR BACK ON THE TRACK. I TRIED TO MANUALLY CLOSE THE DOOR, BUT BECAUSE THE DOOR HAD BEEN PULLED OFF THE TRACK, THE BRACE COMPLETELY SCRATCHED UP THE DOOR AND BENT UP THE PANEL THAT COVERS THE TRACK ON WHICH THE BRACE FOR THE DOOR SLIDES. I NEEDED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE BODY SHOP TO REPLACE THE BRACE. I AM SPENDING HUNDREDS AND HUNDREDS OF $$ BECAUSE THE DOOR FELL OFF. THERE ARE MANY POSTS ABOUT SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH HONDA ODYSSEYS. THE FAULTY SLIDING MECHANISM APPEARS TO BE A MANUFACTURING PROBLEM. IT'S RIDICULOUS THAT I NEED TO REPAIR A DOOR BECAUSE IT HAS WORN OUT. I'M ATTACHING A PICTURE OF THE CLOSED DOOR WITH THE BRACE STICKING OUT AND THE DAMAGE TO THE BODY FROM WHEN I HAD ATTEMPTED TO CLOSE THE DOOR.

MY HONDA ODYSSEY CAUGHT FIRE ON MAY 13, 2018. THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT INVOLVED. THE CAR JUST BURNED ITSELF. THE CAR SUDDENLY STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD WHEN I WAS DRIVING AT 30 MILES PER HOUR AT LOCAL ROAD. AND STARTED TO SHAKE. SMOKE CAME OUT UNDER THE ENGINE COVER, I OPENED THE ENGINE COVER, FLAME CAME OUT AS HIGH AS 6-8 FEET. IT WAS SO DANGEROUS. I CALLED THE POLICE. BEFORE THE FIRE TRUCK CAME, SOME PASS BY DRIVER THROW ME SOME BOTTLE WATERS. I WAS ABLE TO PUT DOWN THE FIRE. THE CAR WAS DAMAGED BY THE FIRE. WE BOUGHT THE CAR NEW IN 2009 FROM HONDA DEALER. WE ALWAYS DID CAR MAINTENANCE PER HONDA'S REQUIREMENTS AT THE HONDA DEALERSHIP. NO ANY NEGLIGENCE BY OWNER. WE HIRED A PROFESSIONAL CAR INSPECTOR. HE FOUND OUT THE FIRE WAS CAUSED BY THE ELECTRONIC WIRES CONNECTED THE ALTERNATOR. THEY WERE THE ORIGINAL HONDA WIRES. THE CAR INSPECTION REPORT IS ATTACHED FOR YOUR REVIEW. THE CAR WAS LATER INSPECTED AND REPAIRED BY THE WORKSHOP. THE TECHNICIANS CONFIRMED THE FIRE INSPECTION REPORT. THE CAR INSPECTOR AND WORKSHOP BOTH CONFIRMED THE FIRE WAS CAUSED BY THE ELECTRONIC WIRES USED BY HONDA. THE FIRE CAUSED BIG DAMAGE TO MY CAR AND POSED SERIOUS THREAT TO HUMAN LIFE. WE BELIEVE WE NEED TO REPORT THE ACCIDENT TO HELP AVOID LOSS OF LIFE. WE HOPE HONDA CAN TAKE SERIOUS STEPS TO INVESTIGATE THE FIRE ISSUE AND FIX ANY POTENTIAL PROBLEMS THAT MAY CAUSE FIRE ON HONDA CAR.

THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. THE DRIVER-SIDE SLIDING DOOR FELL OFF WHEN WE OPENED IT, FALLING TO THE GROUND, CAUSING EXTENSIVE BODY DAMAGE TO THE REAR PANEL. WE HAD THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR REPAIRED ALREADY BUT ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH IT OPENING AGAIN. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL FROM HONDA. I'VE READ ONLINE THAT MANY HONDA ODYSSEY OWNERS ARE HAVING THIS SAME EXPERIENCE

LEAK ON DRIVER SIDE SIDE AIRBAG. POSSIBLY TRIM PIECE THAT RUNS ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE CAR. SHORTED OUT ENTIRE ELECTRICAL FUSE BOX I UNDER THE HOOD. TOLD IT WAS CAUSE OF THE WINDSHIELD GASKET. REPLACED ENTIRE ELECTRICAL ISSUE AND WINDSHIELD TO NOW HAVE THE SAME LEAK ISSUE AGAIN!

UNABLE TO LIFT THE WINDOW GLASS UP WHEN IT'S DOWN. GENERALLY OCCURS IN WINTER. THIS WAS THE SAME PROBLEM THAT I HAD FROM THE FIRST YEAR THAT I BOUGHT THE CAR. ONCE THE PROBLEM OCCURS IF I WAIT A WHILE NO FIRM TIMING I CAN BRING THE WINDOWS UP. GENERALLY OCCURS ON PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDOWS BOTH FRONT AND REAR WINDOW. TAKEN TO DEALER BUT BY THAT TIME IT RECOVERS SO I AM STUCK WITH PROBLEM.

VEHICLE HAD CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT GO ON (BATTERY LIGHT). BATTERY WAS NOT CHARGING AND THERE WAS A NOISE NEAR THE ALTERNATOR. NEXT DAY, LIGHT GOES OFF, BATTERY IS CHARGING NOW, NO NOISE. TWO DAYS AND 40 MILES LATER, NO OTHER LIGHTS AND NO OTHER NOISE. VEHICLE ENTERS HIGHWAY, MAKES IT ABOUT 3 MILES WHEN THE CRUISE CONTROL SHUTS OFF. ALL LIGHTS ON THE DASH COME ON AND SHUT OFF. DRIVER PULLS OVER, STARTS TO SEE SMOKE COMING OUT FROM UNDER THE HOOD. KEEPS HOOD SHUT AND WAITS FOR EMERGENCY SERVICES TO ARRIVE ON SCENE. ENGINE GOES UP IN FLAMES, ALL SEATS ARE BURNED UP, WINDOWS BLOWN OUT, FRONT TIRES MELT. TOTAL LOSS.

FIRST THE ELECTRIC ASSIST ON THE PASSENGER SIDE SLIDING DOOR BROKE. THEN IT STARTED MAKING A GRINDING NOISE AND STICKING FREQUENTLY. FINALLY THE SLIDING DOOR FELL OFF COMPLETELY DAMAGING THE BODY OF THE VAN AND THE DOOR ITSELF. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN OUR DRIVEWAY WHEN THIS HAPPENED.

THE PAINT ON ROOF IS DISAPPEARING I THINK FROM WIND FRICTION STARTED HAPPENING AT 40000 MILES AND HAS GOTTEN WORSE ONLY HAVE 60000 MILES AND WE TAKE CARE OF IT- IT SHOULD STILL LOOK LIKE NEW

PASSENGER AUTOMATIC SLIDING DOOR DOES NOT OPEN WHEN NEEDED WHILE STATIONARY. THE DOOR STAYS SHUT AND NEEDS MULTIPLE PRESSES OF THE BUTTON OR HANDLE BEFORE IT OPENS OR CLOSES. VERY INCONCIENENT AND DANGEROUS AND HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR MANY MONTHS.

APPROXIMATELY 6 MONTHS AGO, EARLY 2017, THE PAINT ON THE TOP PASSENGER SIDE BEGAN TO OXIDIZE. THE PAINT FIRST STARTED TO APPEAR WHITE AND IS NOW TURNING GRAY AND VERY DARK GRAY IN SEVERAL SPOTS. THE REMAINDER OF THE VEHICLE REMAINS UNAFFECTED.

CLEAR COAT PAINT IS PEELING (HOOD)-LOOKS TERRIBLE