2017 Hyundai Elantra Complaint Log

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CAR STARTED STALLING AT RED LIGHTS AND WHEN STOPPING. ALMOST CRASHED TWICE. IT STARTS BACK UP. IT STARTED 10\12\20. IT HAPPENED A FEW TIMES AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITH CODE P3006. ABOUT 20 MILES IT WENT OFF. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE FIXED. A LOT OF PEOPLE IS COMPLAINING ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. IT NEED TO BE RECALLED AND REPAIRED.

THE CAR WOULD STALL IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING, THE MOST RECENT TIME ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY. THE VEHICLE STALLS WITH NO REASON AT ALL. THIS INCIDENT HAS HAPPENED 5 OR 6 TIMES WITH NO HELP FROM THE DEALER AS THEY HAVE NOT FOUND THE ISSUE. THIS VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE.

FIRST THE CAR HAS BEEN ACTING LIKE IT'S GOING TO DIE EVEN WHILE DRIVING IT. NOW I'M HAVING ISSUES WITH MY STEERING WHEEL, IT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE IS DIFFICULT TO TURN BUT IT'S OFF AND ON. IT'S ALWAYS WHILE I'M ACTIVELY DRIVING IT'S BEEN BOTH CITY STREET AND HIGHWAYS.

Bought 2017 Hyundai Elantra in May 2020 car had no paint peeling at Odometer reading 82,888. In October 2020 the paint on the hood of the car near the headlights started peeling the odometer reading was about 92,897 at that point. A couple months later the roof next to the windshield start peeling too. Now those spots have grown each time it rains. These spots are now starting to rust. Obviously this is bringing down the value of the car. Not to mention it makes the car look terrible. After I bought the car I went out and put new tires and wheels on it plus other accessories to make it stand out only to have the paint start peeling and have it look terrible. As a consumer I should not have to pay for Hyundai mistake in painting thier cars incorrectly.

REAR, PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE. YOU CAN HEAR THE LOCK MECHANISM WORKING, BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN NO MATTER WHAT WE DO. THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM PEOPLE HAVE BEEN HAVING WITH HYUNDAIS FOR YEARS NOW. HERE'S A LINK TO A FORUM THAT TALKS ABOUT IT. HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/ THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE SAYS IT'S OUT OF WARRANTY, AND WON'T LOOK AT IT WITHOUT CHARGING ME, SO I DIDN'T GET A REPAIR ESTIMATE.

UNABLE TO OPEN DRIVERS FRONT DOOR WITHOUT TRYING AT LEAST 4 TIMES. THIS IS ONLY ONCE IT IS IN THE LOCK POSITION AND I UNLOCK IT. LIGHTS IN AUTO POSITION RANDOMLY GO ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING

I PURCHASE THIS VEHICLE IN 7/2018 AND HAD IT FOR JUST OVER 2YEARS AND THE VEHICLE STARTED STALLING AND STOPPING THEN SOON JUST SHUT DOWN AS I WAS DRIVING. AFTER GETTING IT TOW HOME AND HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT IT. I WAS TOLD THE ENGINE WAS BAD AND IT WAS NOT FIXABLE. I'M HAVE A CAR I'M FINANCING AND CAN'T USE THE CARE AGAIN. I HAVE CONTACT HYUNDAI FOR OVER A WEEK NOW AND NO ONE HAVE RESPONSE. MY CASE MANAGER WILL NOT CALL ME BACK ON THIS. I HAVE A CASE NUMBER AND CALL EVERYDAY AND ALL I GET IT RUDE SUPERVISOR WHO DO NOT CARE.

DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS DO NOT UNLOCK. OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE, PLACE THE KEY IN THE DOOR LOCK IN THE HANDLE AND TURN, OR USE THE WIRELESS REMOTE. BOTH METHODS FLIP THE DOOR LOCK INSIDE THE CAR TO THE OPEN POSITION, BUT NEITHER UNLOCKS THE DOOR.

THE POWER STEERING MECHANISM CLICKS OR CLAPS WHENEVER STEERING EITHER FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. THE NOISE ISN'T ALWAYS THERE. IT HAPPENS AT RANDOM TIMES, BUT ITS AT EITHER DIRECTIONS WHEN STEERING INTO A PARKING SPOT OR A PARKING LOT.

THE DOORS WOULDN'T UNLOCK, THEN DECIDED TO UNLOCK. THE VEHICLE WILL ONLY MAKE THIS LOUD CLICKING NOISE. THE BATTERY TESTS GOOD. THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS KEEP COMING ON AND OFF EVEN THOUGH THE VEHICLE IS NOT ON AT ALL. ALL SWITCHES ARE TUNED OFF AND IT'S NOT IN ACCC MODE. HAD TO DISCONNECT BATTERY AND WAIT FOR TOW TRUCK.

ENGINE TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY AFTER BRAKING BUT ALSO WHILE IN MOTION. LUCKILY, IT WAS AT A STOP LIGHT OR WHILE I WAS IN LIGHT TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION AFTER DRIVING AN AVERAGE OF 30-40 MINUTES. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE A PATTERN OR A SPECIFIC REASONING AS TO WHY.

DRIVER SIDE FRONT DOOR HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN CAR DOOR FROM OUTSIDE. WAS WORKING FINE ALL DAY THEN STOPPED WORKING. CAR WAS STATIONARY. FRONT PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE CAME OFF IN MY HAND. THIS OCCURRED MONTHS PRIOR TO FRONT DRIVER DOOR.

IN FEBRUARY 2020, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AFTER MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND LOSE SPEED AS I DROVE ON THE CITY STREETS AND HIGHWAYS.THE SERVICEMAN REPLACED THE COILS IN MY CAR. WITHIN A WEEK, MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY "FIXED" IT AGAIN TO NO AVAIL. IN EARLY MARCH, MY CAR WAS STILL EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS: SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND LOSING SPEED AS I DROVE ON BOTH THE HIGHWAY AND ON CITY STREETS. I CHOSE TO TRY A DIFFERENT SERVICE CENTER. THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIND A PROBLEM WITH MY CAR BY RUNNING THE CODES, BUT HE SAID THAT NOTHING POPPED UP ON THE SCREEN. I TOLD HIM THAT MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON AND OFF OF THE ACCELERATOR. HE SENT ME ON MY WAY WITHOUT FIXING MY CAR, BUT HE TOLD ME TO BRING MY CAR BACK INTO THE SERVICE CENTER WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF MY CAR AS SOON AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THE DASHBOARD. HE TOLD ME THAT THIS WAS IMPORTANT, BECAUSE IT WOULD HELP THEM BE ABLE TO DETECT THE ISSUE. WITHIN 15 MINUTES OF PULLING OFF OF THE PARKING LOT, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHED BACK ON AND MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TURNED AROUND IMMEDIATELY AND TOOK MY CAR BACK. THEY FLUSHED OUT THE FUEL LINE SYSTEM. WITHIN TWO WEEKS, I BROUGHT MY CAR BACK FOR THE SAME THING, BUT THE SERVICEMAN TOLD ME THAT HE COULD NOT FIND ANY ISSUES SINCE THE COMPUTER SHOWED NO ISSUES. EVERY TIME I TAKE MY CAR INTO A HYUNDAI REPAIR CENTER, THEY TELL ME THAT THEY CANNOT DETECT ANY ISSUES WITH MY CAR, ALTHOUGH I TELL THEM THAT MY CAR BEGINS TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED RANDOMLY. IT IS NOW SEPT. 2020, AND I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. I AM SCHEDULED TO TAKE MY CAR INTO A NEW HYUNDAI SERVICE CENTER IN A NEW STATE. THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR PROBLEM THAT THREATENS THE SAFETY OF ME AND OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROAD. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO TAKE ACTION NOW!

ONCE AGAIN THE CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND STARTED LUNGING FORWARD WHILE DRIVING WITHIN CITY LIMITS. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. I PULLED OVER AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS NO LONGER ILLUMINATED AND THE CAR SEEMED TO DRIVE SOMEWHAT NORMALLY. THIS WAS NOT THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, AND FROM WHAT I CAN TELL BY READING OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE, SEVERAL PEOPLE ARE HAVING THESE ISSUES AS WELL. IT APPEARS TO BE THE ECM, ENGINE CONTROL MODULE. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE ASAP. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE. DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO SAY YOU NEED NEW SPARK PLUGS OR A SOFTWARE UPDATE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS A RECALL IMMEDIATELY.

TPMS MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS ON. CAR IS SHAKING . ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON

IGNITION COIL PACK FAILURE. 1 COIL PACK FAILED (STARTED FAILING AT 40,000 AND IT WAS 44,000MI BEFORE THE ISSUE WAS FIXED ) & ANOTHER IS FAILING (AT APROX48,000). I HAD TO TAKE MY CAR TO HYUNDAI MULTIPLE TIMES TO HAVE THIS RECTIFIED AND IN THAT TIME MY VEHICLE WAS RUNNING ROUGH AT IDLE, WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO STALL WHILE DRIVING AT INTERSTATESPEEDS ON A MERGE RAMP BETWEEN TWO INTERSTATES DURINGTHEFIRST INSTANCE OF FAILURE. HYUNDAI WOULD NOT RECTIFY THE ISSUE WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PRESENTED AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE FIRST COIL PACK WAS REPLACED. NOW ANOTHER COIL PACK IS FAILING AND THE DEALERSHIP REFUSES TO FIX THE MATTER WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I VISITED THE DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED MY MOST RECENT FAILING IGNITION COIL ON 9/1/2020. THE ROUGH IDLE AND RUNNING ROUGH IS BECOMING MORE FREQUENT WHICH MEANS THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO STALL WHILE DRIVING. THE 2017 KIA FORTE HAS THE SAME ENGINE AND HAS A TSB ON THIS ISSUE TO BE FIXED. THE FORTE NHTSA ID # IS 10127032. DUE TO THE STALLING WHILE DRIVING THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. MY VEHICLE IS UNDER MY FACTORY 5YR/ 60K WARRANTY WITH HYUNDAI AND I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER.

THE DOORS SUDDENLY STOP WORKING... THEY WON'T UNLATCH IF YOU TRY TO OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OR INSIDE.. YOU HAVE TO HIT UNDER THE DOOR HANDLE FOR THE DOOR TO UNLATCH. THIS IS HAPPENING ON MULTIPLE VEHICLES AND IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE AT THIS POINT. (MORE CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS HERE: HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/) THIS IS HAPPENING ON 2 OF MY DOORS. CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN ACCIDENTS NOR DOES IT HAVE ANY DENTS ON IT. HYUNDAI SAYS THEY WILL NOT FIX UNDER WARRANTY (CAR HAS 65K MILES ON IT) AND THEY ARE CHARGING CUSTOMERS TO FIX IT DESPITE IT BEING A MANUFACTURER ISSUE. THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE GIVEN THAT IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT OR A FIRE, THE DOOR MAY NOT OPEN TO GET PASSENGERS TO SAFETY. THIS IS NOT AN ISSUE WHERE IT SLOWLY DEGRADES. IT'S A SUDDEN ISSUE.

1) The transmission has a delay in shifting, and I smell burning under the hood. I took it back to the dealer where I bought it. I was told nothing was wrong with it. The problem has been coming back. The dealership was Dennis Hyuandai on Morse Rd in Cols. Oh. 43219 2) I am afraid I may have this problem on the highway some day, as it has become more frequent. 3) Dealer claims nothing wrong with the transmission. 4) No I didn't know I had this opption. 5) No none. It has been and on and off problem for nearly 2yrs

The white paint on my 2017 Hyundai Elantra is peeling in large chunks. This may not be a safety issue, but it is a legitimate concern because the Hyundai Corporation is selling vehicles with faulty paint jobs with no recourse to the consumer. The problem is seen on numerous Hyundais driving down the road. Consumers need some sort of intervention to recoup the loss that’s incurred from rust, corrosion or thousands of dollars spent repainting a vehicle. As you can see in my photos, the paint first bubbles then it flakes off. It’s just a matter of time before more paint flies off as I drive down the highway.

IN OPERATING SPEED LESS THAN 25 MPH ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET, ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE ABRUPTLY STOPPED WORKING AND POWER STEERING LIGHT ON DASH ILLUMINATED. OPERATOR LOST 90% CONTROL OF STEERING. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED AS DESIGNED. DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE WAS DUE TO A BAD BATTERY BUT ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED. RECALL 161 DESCRIBES A MORE ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING CONNECTOR RESULTING IN A LOSS OF ELECTRIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE.

I JUST DROVE THE CAR OFF THE LOT EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING FOUR HOURS HOME THE LIGHTS WENT OUT THE LIGHT IS CUTTING OFF AND ON AND NOW I GET AN ALERT CHECK BACK BRAKE LIGHT SO NOW IT IS NOT WORKING

WHILE DRIVING, ENGINE WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE THE ENGINE WOULD BE OFF (NO ACCELERATION) AND THE ENGINE, OIL, AND BATTERY LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. DASHBOARD ELECTRONICS AND RADIO WOULD STAY ON. PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN IT OFF, TURN IT BACK ON - NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON AND THE CAR NOW DRIVES AS NORMAL. ALL INSTANCES HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS, MOST INSTANCED HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNING. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE I HAD LOW OIL (NO OIL INDICATOR LIGHT HAD BEEN ON). "FIXED" IT BY DOING AN OIL CHANGE. ALL SUBSEQUENT OIL CHANGES HAVE BEEN DONE AT HYUNDAI LAKELAND. 8 MONTHS LATER I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM. CAR TAKEN TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. DIAGNOSED AS BAD SENSORS IN THE ENGINE (SENDING INCORRECT INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE ENGINE NEEDS POWER) AND A BAD CRANKSHAFT (AS A RESULT OF THE STALLING AND BAD SENSORS). BECAUSE OF THE MULTIPLE OCCASIONS THAT THIS HAS OCCURRED AND THE DIFFERENT DIAGNOSES THAT IT HAS HAD FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP, I AM UNSURE IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE LAST REPAIR. AN ENGINE THAT TURNS OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DRIVER AND OTHERS AS THE VEHICLE CEASES FORWARD MOTION. I HAVE BEEN LUCKY THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT RESULTED IN A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.

THROTTLE POSITION SWITCH HESITATES UPON ACCELERATION. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, ON A CITY STREET AND HIGHWAY. ENGINE SEEMED TO HAVE NO POWER.

THE VEHICLE WAS BEING ADJUSTED WHILE PARKING ALONG SIDE A CURB ON A HILL. THE DRIVER PULLED FORWARD, THEN ATTEMPTED TO STOP IN ORDER TO PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE TO GET CLOSER TO THE CURB, BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD NOT DEPRESS. THE CAR BEGAN TO ROLL DOWN THE HILL AND HIT THE BACK OF A PARKED SUV AND ENDED UP WEDGED UNDER THE BACK OF THE SUV. THE ENTIRE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS SMASHED, BUT THE AIRBAG NEVER DEPLOYED.

MY CAR HAD RECENTLY BEGAN TO SHAKE AND BUCK VIOLENTLY WHILE DRIVING WITH NO WARNING LIGHTS OR INDICATORS AT 38,000 MILES. THREE WEEKS AGO BEFORE A REGULAR MAINTENANCE APPOINTMENT AT MY HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT THE !CAR, AS I TURNED OVER THE IGNITION AND ACCELERATED THE CAR BEGAN TO BUCK AND SHAKE VIOLENTLY. AS I PRESSED THE GAS, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC IN WASHINGTON, D.C. SO ONCE I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY MOVE OVER, I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. NO SHAKING AND CONTINUED AS NORMAL. ONCE I TOOK THE CAR IN THE FOLLOWING WEEK, I WAS TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FINE AND MADE SURE TO MENTION THE SHAKING AND BUCKING AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING. THE NEXT DAY FOLLOWING SERVICE AND RECEIVING MY CAR BACK, MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AGAIN. STILL NO WARNING LIGHT INDICATOR. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE MECHANIC WHERE MY COIL PACKS WERE UPDATED (I BOUGHT MY CAR MARCH 2017 AND WAS NEVER TOLD ABOUT ANY RECALLS ON COIL PACKS THAT RELEASE LATE 2017 UNTIL THIS MOMENT). ONCE I RECEIVED MY CAR BACK I WAS INFORMED THAT EVERYTHING WAS OKAY. WELL IT WAS NOT. THE NEXT DAY I'M DRIVING MY CAR A SHORT DISTANCE WHEN TWO HARD SHAKES HAPPENED. ONE SOUNDED LIKE TWO METAL PIECES COLLIDING. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS NOW PERMANENTLY ON. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED AND NOW BEING TOLD IT COULD BE THE TRANSMISSION BUT NO UPDATES. SERIOUSLY UNSAFE AND COULD'VE NOW BEEN IN MULTIPLE ACCIDENTS ALTHOUGH I'VE REGULARLY SERVICED AT THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED MY CAR.

Around the end of 2019 is when I purchased my vehicle. Mid 2020 is when the issue first started. The paint first came off in a big chunk on the right side of the hood, then an even bigger chunk on the left. Now it's moved up to the roof of my vehicle and I dont think it's stopping any time soon. Initially I assumed maybe I did something wrong until I saw multiple other Elantras with the same exact issue. Now I know Hyundai is at fault

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED RAN GREAT FOR A WHILE, THE ONE OF THE FOUR COILS WENT BAD, STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE DEALER REPLACED THE COIL, AND RAN GREAT, AND NOW THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND I SET AN APPOINTMENT FOR THE DEALER THE DAY I TAKE TO THE DEALER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT OUT AND IT WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER ANYWAY AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE COIL, AND IT WASN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ANYMORE, BUT THE CAR WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT, AND NOW EVERY NOW AND THEN IT SHAKES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND WHEN I STEP ON THE GAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OUT AND THE CAR RUNS GREAT. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL!

BOTH BACK DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN. THEY WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE. MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE. I TOOK TO SHOP AND THEY SAID IT WAS ACUTATOR OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. COST OVER $650 TO FIX. I HAD THE EXTENDED WARRANTY SO I GOT IT FIXED, "FREE". BUT OTHERS MAY NOT BE SO LUCKY. NEVER BEEN IN WRECK, COMPLETELY NOT MY FAULT AT ALL.

TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF HIS DAUGHTER WHO OWNED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH AND COMING TO A STOP, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO STEW HANSEN HYUNDAI (11344 HICKMAN RD, CLIVE, IA 50325) WHO REPLACED THE BATTERY AND REPROGRAMMED THE ECU. THE FAILURE RECURRED WITH THE VEHICLE HESITATING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED A CASE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

Rear door locks have both failed. Doors cannot be opened from inside or outside, making this a safety concern. I cannot get my children out of the rear seats except through the window. After searching online I find that this is a common failure.

I am filing a complaint regarding my white 2017 Elantra because Hyundia refuses to address the peeling paint issue on the hood. The paint is literally falling off. I tried to have it fixed under the original warranty - Plano Hyundia Huffines said it was not covered - This was not true, and it could have been fixed. I know this because I received an extended warranty notice (TXXW) specifically addressing the paint issue. I took the car to the dealer, and they again stated it's not covered - too much time had passed....I just received the notice 2 weeks prior to the appointment on 2/25/23 at 10:30 am CST. I am looking to simply have my hood painted / repaired and i cannot get anyone to be accountable to the poor quality of this car's paint.

I BOUGHT MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED 6 MONTHS AGO. 4 MONTHS AFTER I HAD IT THE CAR WAS SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND DID NOT WANT TO ACCELERATE . TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC HE SAID IT WAS MISFIRING AND REPLACED IGNITION COIL . IT WAS DRIVING FINE FOR 2 MONTHS THEN WHILE DRIVING TO WORK ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY THE CAR STARTED SHAKING VIOLENTLY AGAIN AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE TO SPEED IT WAS SHUTTING DOWN .. HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED . MECHANIC RAN A DIAGNOSTIC ON IT AND ITS READING MULTIPLE MISFIRES . I CAN NOT AFFORD CAR PAYMENT PLUS HAVING CONSTANT REPAIRS DONE EVERY COUPLE MONTHS.. THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY OF THE SAME COMPLAINTS ON A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA ENGINE PROBLEMS. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A REAL CONCERN FOR A NEWER CAR . HYUNDAI NEEDS TO FIX THE ISSUE FOR THIS YEAR AND MODEL . OR THERE NEEDS TO BE A LAWSUIT AGAINST HYUNDAI ... THESE ARE LEMON CARS AND ARE UNSAFE TO DRIVE THEY NEED TO BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR IT .

LEFT REAR DOOR LATCH WON'T ENGAGE TO OPEN DOOR. THIS IS THE SECOND DOOR THAT I AM HAVING TO HAVE FIXED ON A VEHICLE THAT IS 4 YEARS OLD WITH THIS DOOR RARELY BEING USED AS I AM USUALLY THE ONLY ONE IN THE VEHICLE.

THE CAR CUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.IT STALLS N TRAFFIC LIKE IT WON'T GO N I ALMOST HAVE BEEN HIT SEVERAL TIMES.THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.VERY DANGEROUS N SCARES ME WHEN I DRIVE CAUSE U NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO CUT OFF N TRAFFIC OR WHILE TURNING.

PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, CHILD SAFETY LOCK NOT ENGAGED, WILL NOT UNLOCK. DEALER STATED THAT HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL HYUNDAI'S BUT THERE IS CURRENTLY NO RECALL. DEALER STATED ACTUATOR IS BAD AND THE CABLES ARE STRETCHED. VERY UNSAFE THAT HYUNDAI DOORS ARE SELF LOCKING FROM NORMAL USE WITHOUT DAMAGE AND WITHOUT WARNING.

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR JUST STOPPED OPENING, HAVE TO GO THROUGH PASSENGER SIDE DOOR TO OPEN DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, AND BACK PASSENGER DOOR HASN'T OPENED IN MONTHS FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, IT JUST ONE DAY DIDNT OPEN. GOOGLE HYUNDAI ELANTRA DOOR LATCH AND YOU WILL SEE MANY MORE PEOPLE VERY ANGRY WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. IT IS VERY MUCH A SAFETY ISSUE. MY CAR WAS AT A CONVIENCE STORE WHEN THE DOOR DIDNT OPEN AFTER I WENT INTO THE STORE. I AM GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP ON 7-25-20 TO GET THEM TO LOOK AT IT BUT I THINK THEY ARE GOING TO TRY AND CHARGE ME EVEN THOUGH MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM THERE SHOULD ALREADY BE A RECALL IN PLACE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A GRINDING NOISE WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED WITH THE BRAKING DISTANCE BEING EXTENDED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE BRAKE ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 55,428. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

WHEN TRYING TO MAKE A SUDDEN BR.AKE, THE VEHICLE TOOK LONGER TO BRAKE THAN IT SHOULD HAVE. THE TIRES AND BRAKE PADS WERE IN GREAT CONDITION AND I KNOW THIS BECAUSE I HAD GOT THEM CHECKED OUT PRIOR TO MY ROAD TRIP WHICH IS WHEN THE INCIDENT TOOK PLACE. OUT OF ALL THE CARS I HAVE DRIVEN, NONE OF THEM HAVE TOOK THAT LONG TO MAKE A COMPLETE STOP. IF THERE HAD BEEN A CAR IN THE INTERSECTION, I WOULD HAVE DEFINITLY HIT THEM WHICH IS VERY SCARY. AS A RESULT OF THIS I NOW KEEP A MUCH LONGER DISTANCE WHEN DRIVING BEHIND OTHERS AND I ALSO BRAKE AHEAD OF TIME SCARED THAT ONE DAY THE CAR MIGHT NOT STOP AT ALL.

MY VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND LOCKED. I UNLOCKED THE DOOR WITH THE REMOTE KEY AND AFTER PULLING THE EXTERIOR DRIVER SIDE DOOR HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR, THE PLASTIC PIECE SURROUNDING THE AREA WHERE A KEY MAY BE INSERTED BROKE OFF AND THE HANDLE ITSELF REMAINED PULLED AWAY FROM THE CAR AND THE DOOR COULD NOT BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE. I AM NOW ONLY ABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR USING THE INNER HANDLE AFTER CLIMBING ACROSS THE PASSENGER SEAT INSIDE THE CAR.

The rear passenger door will NOT open from inside or outside. The front passenger door will ONLY open from the inside. This is a safety concern with young children in car seats in the back or for general emergencies. F on my research this is a common Hyundai issue.

PURCHASED A HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 FROM A DEALERSHIP ON JULY 7, 2020. THE 2ND DAY IT STALLED ON ME FEELING LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON. I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AS AND SAID THEY ORDERED A PART TO RETURN IN 2 WKS. THIS HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THEY KEPT THE CAR ANOTHER 2 WEEKS. I WAS HAPPY WHEN THEY CALLED THAT IT WAS READY. EACH TIME I HAD TO PAY THE 2 TOLLS TO GO TO THEM IN JERSEY. BEFORE I GOT ON THE GARDEN STATE GOOD, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING, COULDN'T GO OVER 45 MPH WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN. I RETURNED IT. THEY KEPT IT 2 WEEKS. I HAVE MY CAR WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON STILL AND CALLED TO COMPLAIN BUT UNABLE TO REACH A MANAGER EACH TIME. I USED UP OVER $200 OF TOLL MONEY WHICH I USED UP PLUS GETTING SOMEONE TO TAKE ME TO DROP OFF OR PICK UP THE CAR HAD TO PAY FOR GAS AND TOLL. PRODUCED THE E-ZPASS RECEIPTS AND EVERYTHING AND EVERY TIME I GO AND ASK FOR THE REFUND, THE OWNER IS NEVER THERE. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE MY NEW CAR BREAK DOWN WITH ME IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER. I REQUESTED A LIST OF THE THINGS THAT WERE DONE TO TRY TO RESOLVE THE ENGINE LIGHT ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES EVEN FROM THE SALESMAN WHO DOES NOT TAKE MY CALLS OR WHEN HE DOES, HE DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL ME. SAID HE'LL ASK AND GET BACK TO ME. NO RESPONSE. THE FIRST DAY I PAID FOR THE CAR AND WE WERE HAPPY TO BE GOING HOME, MY DAUGHTER AND I NOTICED THE FRONT BUMPER ALL BROKEN UP AND IT WASN'T LIKE THAT WHEN WE INSPECTED AND CHOSE IT BEFORE PAYING. THE SALESMAN SAL SAID THERE'S NOTHING HE CAN DO ABOUT THAT AS I ALREADY PAID FOR THE CAR AND MUST ACCEPT IT THAT WAY. I BROUGHT IT TO A SALESWOMAN ATTENTION THE LAST TIME I WENT TO PICK UP MY CAR AND THEY ONLY SAID THE MANAGER/OWNER WILL REACH OUT TO ME. NEVER HEARD FROM THEM. STILL DIDN'T RECEIVE PLATES. I FEEL LIKE THEY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF ME AS A SENIOR CITIZEN.

10/7/19 - MY CAR BATTERY WAS DEAD AFTER SITTING FOR 8 HOURS PARKED. THERE WAS NO INDICATION THAT IT WAS LOSING POWER AND I HAD BROUGHT MY VEHICLE IN TO BE SERVICED AT A HYUNDAI DEALER A WEEK BEFORE WHERE THEY SAID NO ISSUES WERE SEEN WITH MY BATTERY AT THAT TIME. I GOT A JUMP AND DROVE HOME. THE NEXT MORNING MY CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO A SHOP BECAUSE IT COULDN'T EVEN BE JUMPED AT THIS POINT. WE WERE TOLD BY THE SAME HYUNDAI DEALER THE BATTERY WAS BEYOND DEAD. AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS BARELY TWO YEARS OLD AT THIS POINT. BUT WE REPLACED IT. 7/7/20 MY BATTERY IS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN TODAY WITHOUT WARNING. A REPAIR SHOP TESTED IT AND IT WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED DEAD. THEY SAID IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME IN LESS THAN ONE YEAR. THIS IS NOT RIGHT.

VEHICLE IS JERKING, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH, CODE P0190

My back door on the driver side does not open at all from inside or out but the window still works, and the passenger side front door only opens from the inside

THE DOORS IN THE 2017 ELANTRA MODEL STOPPED WORKING, THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE HANDLE AND SOMETIMES THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE EITHER.

The Elantra will randomly stall out while driving. What happens is that the CVVT solenoid relies on clean oil and when it's not clean the solenoid related the timing so much that the engine stalls out, usually on deceleration or when coming to a stop. This happened to me in the past. It requires you to change the oil and filter at short intervals to avoid the problem. It's a safety because it stalls out on the road and you need to put it in park or neutral to restart it.

My car started misfiring at about 23K miles. It would bog down on the highway and cars, numerous times, we forced to slam on their brakes to avoid hitting me. Over the course of the next 20K I had to change ignition coils 3 times. At just around 61K I went back to the Hyundai dealer (Nashua NH) and I was told that since I bought the car second hand that the 100K warranty was no longer in effect. I would be fully responsible for everything financially going forward. They said the camshaft position sensor was the problem. They said for $1700 they would take the top of my motor off and "see if we can find the problem". At that point I went to my own mechanic. He changed the camshaft position sensor (that didn't fix it),Crankshaft position sensor (that didn't fix it) and the Vvt Solenoid (that didn't fix it). At this point the check engine was saying that now it was the timing belt that was causing problems. So after spending $3K already it would cost another $2K to change the belt. Well that didn't fix anything either. So now, with almost 3 more years of payments to be made the car is undriveable. In 2 weeks I will be paying to $8K more to install a brand new motor in this car. It is the opinion of my mechanic and of the Nashua Hyundai dealer that the reason I need a new motor is because of all of the issues I have had since the day I purchased this car from Carvana. I had Hyundai America look into these issues and they said if I was the original owner they would have taken care of these issues but since I was the second owner it was only warranted for 60K and I was out of luck. Doing some online researcg there have been MANY issues with the motor of the 2017 Elantra. I have 3 years of payments left and when the new motor is in I will have invested about $11K to keep this on the road. I have documented information if you need it. Please look into these issues.

I have white paint and my vehicle has 30,000 mi and the paint is peeling off of hood and now roof I have contacted Hyundai and dealership with no satisfaction

OVER THE PAST 2 WEEKS I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE HEAD LIGHTS SHUTTING OFF WILE DRIVING ON MAIN HIGHWAYS AT NIGHT. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 8 OR 9 TIMES. THEY WILL GO OFF WHEN SWITCHING FROM HIGH BEAM TO LOW BEAM. IF I PULL THE LIGHT SWITCH ARM A COUPLE TIMES THEY DO EVENTUALLY COME BACK ON. ALSO TWO TIMES IN THE PAST 2 WEEKS MY PARKING LIGHTS HAVE COME ON WHILE PARKED AND CAR IS SHUT OFF.

HI TEAM, THERE IS A GRINDING NOISE WHENEVER I SHIFT MY CAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I SHIFT FROM PARK TO DRIVE/REVERSE OR SLOW DOWN QUICKLY. SO, I AM CONCERNED THAT THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE HERE. I FEEL REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING MY OWN VEHICLE WHEN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT. THIS PUTS ME TO THINK THAT THIS MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION ISSUE. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY AND LESS THAN 100,000 KM.