2023 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Complaint Log

When AC charging my car, It quickly overheats and disables charging. I've measured the temperatures at 239°F using OBD reader. The only way to continue charging is to reduce charge amperage. If it is reduced to 32 amps the temperature seems to stabilize before reaching the 240° emergency cut off.

The vehicle keeps tripping out due to the charger load on the car. This is concerning due to the repeated failures charging.

Charging port overheats when attempting to charge at any speed above 6kw/hr. Charger is supposed to be rated for 48amps but overheats within minutes charging at 40 amps. Have had a TSB installed by the dealer but issue remains

EV goes into power limited mode when on interstate when going ~50 miles while driving 70mph or more. Happened each of my 3 times on interstate of about that distance. First time was Sat 4/29 while in eco mode with 70% battery and 82°F outside, 1 hr drive 50+ miles. Second time was in normal mode Friday 5/12, 55% battery 72°F outside 1 hr drive 50+ miles. Third time was in normal mode and it happened after 42 miles. I scheduled a service after the first incident but they were only able to take it on 5/31. When this happens you lose ability to accelerate and have to coast to the side of road and let it sit for 10+ minutes to clear and then can resume, I would take surface roads after it occurred. Impacts safety for self and others, as it drastically slows without brake lights causing a high chance of being rear ended. The last incident was close to it. As it was getting worse I stopped driving on interstate with it. Car has been at the dealership's service department since 5/31. They were able to easily reproduce once they finally got to it. They diagnosed a bit and then consulted design engineers. Diagnosed on and off for a couple weeks and have finally decided to replace the drive motor. Part received Friday 6/16, to be installed tomorrow 6/20. We'll see if that addresses.

I'm surprised there are no safety recalls on this vehicle given how Cruise Control operates & how close to the Cruise Control toggle switch the steering wheel is indented for hand placement at 10 a.m./2 p.m.We purchased a 2023 IONIQ 5 on 02/25/2023.When the vehicle was delivered to us we were not told that the cruise control does not disengage when the brake pedal is applied.It merely pauses.There is nothing in the owner's manual that addresses cruise control operation.In any other vehicle we have owned, including other Hyundai vehicles, cruise control cancels when the brake pedal is depressed.Without proper training/information & without cruise control being addressed in the owner's manual we had no way of knowing this.2 months after purchasing the vehicle, while pulling into a parking space driving 3 MPH I stepped on the gas & the vehicle returned to the previously set cruise control of 45 MPH.Whereupon it went over a parking bumper, landscaping, curb, $ into a busy street, scraping the passenger rear portion of the vehicle & damaging the wheel.We took the vehicle to the dealership, Larry H. Miller on 05/03/2023. They were unable to duplicate the mishap.The GM of the dealership indicated that in all probability what occurred was inadvertent touch of the toggle switch.He indicated that this unique cruise control operation was experienced by others, including himself.On 05/24/203, he recommended we contact Hyundai Motors USA to report the incident.Doing so resulted in numerous phone conversations, emails, and 2 inspections of the vehicle. Finally, on 10/19/2023 we were advised in a HMAUSA letter of resolution that said, "no manufacturing defect was identified." They are refusing to pay the $2,247.92 repair bill (on 04/26/23.May be higher now due to rising costs.)We maintain the incident occurred due to a design flaw & unique cruise control operation.We not only want Hyundai to pay for the repairs, we want the NHTSA to investigate so this won't happen to anyone else.

The contact owns a 2023 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to charge at 120 or 240 volts. The charging unsuccessful alert was displayed. The contact stated that the vehicle only charged on a DC fast charger. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit) that allowed both high-voltage and secondary batteries in vehicles to be charged had failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 500.

Vehicle is supposed to be able to charge at 48A on an AC charger but it does not do this during the months when ambient temperatures are above freezing. Poorly designed thermal management by the manufacturer causes charging to stop when the local temperature at the charge port door exceeds the threshold. The only way I can charge this car at home outside of the winter months is to lower the EVSE amperage to 32A which results in the car taking longer to fully charge than it’s supposed to. This car is supposed to be able to AC charge at 11.5 kW with 48A but it simply cannot do that most of the time. This issue is widely reported on the Ioniq 5 forums and is not isolated to me.

brake lights do not come on when the car is in regenerative braking or driving mode and the driver is touching the gas pedal. Drivers following the car are not aware the car is actually braking not coasting. This is causing a rearending hazard. Mfr needs to correct issues so brake lights come on when car is in regenerative braking mode and the car is deaccellerating regardless of gas pedal activity

Occasionally, the vehicle sometimes doesn't start and allow me to engage to Drive gear from being turned off/Parked. I sometimes have to turn the car off and back on 1-2 times for the car to start like normal and allow me to select drive or reverse. Additionally, I have never been able to successfully sync my vehicle with my hyundai bluelink account despite efforts to troubleshoot with Bluelink representatives.

When using i-Pedal (one-pedal driving) mode in this vehicle, it can decelerate at a very fast rate but does not illuminate the brake lights unless the driver’s foot is completely off the pedal. For example, I can be driving 60mph and decelerate to ~2mph as quickly as other drivers coming to a complete stop, but my brake lights will not illuminate until my foot is **completely** removed from the pedal. This is contradictory to the way one-pedal driving works, since coming to a smooth and slow stop requires that you slowly lift off the accelerator pedal, during which the brake lights do not illuminate because your foot is still pressing the pedal (albeit less and less as you come closer to the stop).

While driving in the one pedal driving mode (“iPedal”), it is possible to rapidly slow the vehicle while keeping the accelerator pedal slightly depressed, which is the expected result for this regenerative braking mode. While rapidly decelerating in this mode, however, the brake lights do not illuminate while the accelerator pedal is slightly depressed. Even though regenerative braking is active and the car is rapidly decelerating, there is no brake light illumination. The brake lights only turn on if the accelerator pedal is not pressed at all, which during typical one-pedal driving only occurs at the very end when coming to a complete stop, or when stopping suddenly during a cut-in or at a light. This is a serious safety concern because the vehicle will decelerate very quickly with no visual warning lights to other drivers behind the vehicle. I have noticed that this issue has been reported by other drivers online, but I have not yet taken the vehicle to be inspected by the dealer. There is no indication of failure on the dashboard.

I've owned this car for 4 months now. We own 2 electric cars, 1 ioniq 5 and 1 Fiat 500e. We have a level 2 charger in the garage. A month ago I noticed the ioniq stopped charging overnight. When I tried the next day, it charged for about 30 minutes, then I would get a msg on my phone saying charging had stopped. I can remotely start the charging again, but then it would stop every 10 or 15 minutes. This is still happening. The Fiat has no issues charging, leaving me to believe it's not the charger that is the problem. I've even reduced the charge to the middle level but it hasn't helped. I will be taking this into Hyundai this month for them to see what's wrong.

There is no rear windshield wiper and the design of the car causes much dirt/gunk to build up HEAVILY obscuring visibility There are times where I'm driving at night (esp. when it's raining) where I can barely make out the cars/objects behind me. It is very dangerous

We purchased our 2023 Ioniq5 approximately 7 months ago. We saw an article in the newspaper about the 2022 Ioniq losing power while driving. That has happened to us 3 times in the last several months so it is not strictly the 2022 model. One time was particularly scary as I was entering a busy freeway the car lost power and as much as I pushed on the pedal I could not go more than 20mph. This happened for about 15-30 seconds then finally accelerated. My husband said he has experienced the same problem with this vehicle on 3 different occasions. Thank you.

Hater does not push out any hot or heated air.

Vehicle fails to charge at full level 2 charging speeds. When set to 48 amps the vehicle quickly reaches a high AC inlet temperature and stops the charging. When lowered to 38 amps the vehicle charges for longer but eventually reaches the high AC inlet temperature and once again stops charging. Level 2 charging must be set to a low max of around 32 amps to successfully charge the car without it stopping the charging. Car is advertised to support 48 amps but does not work correctly. MyHyundai app constantly gives the "Electric vehicle charging alarm" message which indicates the issue occuring.

Unknown or ICCU car constantly has 12v battery probably and requires a jump start 1 to 2 times a month. The dealership can diagnose the issue cause the problem has to happen at the dealership and they can't replicate it. I've left my car there for 2 weeks and they couldnt replicate it. When I get it back, with in 2 weeks the car has the 12 volt issue and then fails. We tried to do what the dealership asks, tow it in, but that can't be done without the battery being reset and then they can't replicate the error.