2016 Mazda CX-5 Powertrain & Transmission Problems

I was driving on a city street and slowed to turn right onto a driveway at at a private residence. As my car entered the driveway and near the end of the right turn, my car had a sudden unintended uncontrolled acceleration, continued the turn, went over a low hedge of shrubs on the right side of the driveway, continued down a short rocky incline, and landed on a large rock where the car stopped.

About a month ago, started hearing a whining noise from the automatic transaxle when driving at different speeds. The more speed, the more noise you hear inside the vehicle. It occurs with all types of driving, acceleration, deceleration and steady speed. Took my Mazda CX-5 into auto experts and found there is a Service Bulletin regarding this issue in 2013-2016 Mazda CX-5's. There is a damaged bearing in the transaxle due to improper configuration of the transaxle case. There needs to be a recall for this issue, not just a service bulletin. I cannot afford a new transmission and replacing the transmission with a like for like or used transmission, there is no guarantee the issue won't come back.

I was driving on the freeway, going 60-65mph for about 10 minutes. All of a sudden, the engine went from ~2k RPM to ~4 RPM. The speed stayed the same. And then it happened again a few minutes later. A few days after this incident, while driving on the freeway, going 60mph, the car refused to go past 60mph. This also happened ~2 weeks prior. This would have caused an accident had I needed to speed up to avoid an issue but my car refused to go any faster on a flat road.

Car: 2018 Mazda CX-5 Touring with approximately 39,000 miles. Issue: Burning smell coming from engine compartment- Oil leaking from engine. Problem: Cracked cylinder head as diagnosed by dealer and to be replaced under Mazda Power Train Warranty. Safety was a concern not knowing the issue. Concerned of engine failure, fire, and overall safety. Warnings: No warnings or check engine light was also concerning. Time frame: 10/1/22 evening- noticed slight burning smell which lasted only a few minutes. No evidence of oil leaking. - 10/2/22: Slight burning smell occurred briefly on and off through out late afternoon. No evidence of oil leaking. Smell dissipated. - 10/3/22: Stronger presence of burning smell. Started to notice oil leaking from under car. - 10/4/22: Car inspected by local mechanic and advised to bring to dealer for further assessment. Mechanic observed increased oil leakage and stated oil was coming from within engine. Car towed to dealer, evaluated with a cracked cylinder head. Repair to be covered under Mazda Power Train Warranty. Additional concern: Short and Long Term residual effects on other engine components. Other reports: none. Awareness: I’ve come to understand that there seems to be similar issues with certain model years/production runs that might not be reported due to being covered under warranty. The consumer provided the correct VIN for the vehicle.

Dealer identified drive belt tensioner as leaking and in need of replacement on a Mazda CX-5 with less than 30k miles on it. Many owners have reported identical failures at or around 30k. An insufficient part that is failing so frequently, this early on with low mileage is a significant safety issue.

WHILE GETTING OFF A FREEWAY EXIT SUDDENLY THERE WAS SOME NOISE IN THE ENGINE AREA FOLLOWED BY MAJOR RATTLING EVERY TIME THE CAR SLOWED DOWN OR SPED UP, MAKING IT UNDRIVABLE. THE PROFESSIONAL DIAGNOSTIC WAS THAT SOMETHING WITHIN THE TRANSMISSION WAS BROKEN/COMING APART. THE CAR HAD ONLY AROUND 27000 MILES ON IT AND THIS HAPPENED WITHIN MONTHS OF DRIVE-TRAIN WARRANTY EXPIRING.

WHEN THE CAR IS COLD AND PARKED THE TRANSMISSION WILL LURCH INTO DRIVE SOMETIMES AND EVERYTIME WHEN THE CAR IS COLD THE TRANSMISSION WILL GET STUCK IN THIRD OR FOURTH GEAR AND THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE UNTIL I FLOOR IT UNTIL THEN THE CAR WON'T SHIFT OUT OF GEAR FOR A FEW HUNDRED FEET AND CONTINUE TO BIG DOWN THE ENGINE, THEN AFTER THAT THE TRANSMISSION WILL DOWNSHIFT AND THE CAR WILL START TO ACCELERATE. IF I MANUALLY SHIFT THE CAR INTO FIRST THE PROBLEM WON'T OCCURRE AS BADLY. THIS SOFAR ONLY HAPPENS ONCE WHEN THE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE ARE COLD. BUT EVEN IF I LET THE CAR SIT AND IDLE FOR A FEW MINUTES IT'LL STILL HAPPEN.

WHILE BACKING OUT FROM A DRIVEWAY INTO A CITY STREET, I SHIFTED THE VEHICLE FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE. THE GEAR SHIFT INDICATED THAT THE CAR WAS IN DRIVE, BUT THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO ROLL BACKWARD AS IF IT WAS IN NEUTRAL. THE ENGINE THEN STOPPED, AND THE VEHICLE NEEDED TO BE PUSHED FROM THE STREET OUT OF THE TRAVEL LANES. *TR

WHEN STARTING CAR AND PUTTING IT INTO DRIVE, THEN PUSH THE GAS, THE CAR HESITATES TO GO INTO DRIVE THEN JOLTS WHEN IT FINALLY SHIFTS INTO GEAR FROM PARK. MY CONCERN IS THAT IT TAKES LONG TO GO INTO DRIVE FROM PARK, AND THE ENGINE REVS AND JOLTS VIOLENTLY WHEN IT FINALLY READS THE DRIVE GEAR WHICH IS NOT NORMAL AND IS A SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME.

WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED, THEN I MOVE GEAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE, OR REVERSE TO DRIVE, THE VEHICLE STALLS TO GO INTO TO DRIVE FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS, THE ENGINE REVS THEN THERE IS A FORCEFUL JOLT WHEN IT FINALLY KICKS IN TO DRIVE. ALSO, WHEN I'M AT A STOP FOR A WHILE, THEN PRESS ON THE GAS PEDAL TO DRIVE, IT TAKES A COUPLE OF SECONDS FOR THE CAR TO DRIVE. THIS IS A BIG CONCERN FOR ME BECAUSE THERE SEEMS TO BE A DELAY WITH THE DRIVE GEAR.

SIGNIFICANT LAG IN TRANSMISSION GOING FROM STOP TO EITHER DRIVE OR REVERSE (3 - 5 SECONDS). CAR CAN ROLL BACKWARD WHILE WAITING FOR GEAR TO ENGAGE, AND WILL REV AND THEN JERK HARSHLY INTO GEAR. ALSO WILL JERK WHEN SHIFTING WHILE ACCELERATING TO HIGHWAY SPEEDS. VEHICLE HAD UNDER 25,000 MILES ON IT WHEN SYMPTOMS STARTED. TOOK IT TO DEALER AND GOT APPROVAL FOR NEW TRANSMISSION UNDER WARRANTY VERY QUICKLY, WHICH LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM FOR MAZDA. SAW MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON NHTSA WEBSITE.

WHILE ACCELERATING OR DECELERATING THE RPMS WILL JUMP NEARLY 1,000RPMS BEFORE DECREASING TO ITS NORMALLY EXPECTED LEVELS. THIS RESULTS IN JUMPS AND STUTTERS IN THE TRANSMISSION. ADDITIONALLY, WHILE SHIFTING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE THE TRANSMISSION TAKES SEVERAL SECONDS TO ENGAGE RESULTING IN A VEHICLE THAT LINGERS IN NEUTRAL. THIS MAKES THE VEHICLE FREE ROLL BACKWARDS FOR SEVERAL SECONDS BEFORE POPPING INTO DRIVE WHICH RESULTS IN INCREASED PRESSURE IN THE DRIVETRAIN.

PURCHASED WITH JUST 50K MILES. TOOK TO MAZDA FOR SERVICE LIGHT. NOTIFIED THE DIFFERENTIAL NEEDED REPLACEMENT CITING 2 TB (10155436 AND 10145248) CLEARLY IDENTIFYING THE ROOT CAUSE AS DEFECT IN MANUFACTURING. FURTHER INVESTIGATION PROVIDED CLEAR PROOF OF MAZDA'S ASSESSMENT WITH THE DIFFERENTIAL AND POINTING TO THE TB'S AS CASE FOR THE CLAIM APPROVAL. PICTURES SHOW YEAR'S LONG BUILDUP OF RUST, BROKEN COUPLERS, WATER CONTAMINATED OIL, METAL SHAVING. ALL REFLECTIVE OF THE DAMAGE CREATED BY THE DEFECTIVE DESIGN INDICATED IN THE TB. THE WARRANTY CLAIM WAS DENIED BECAUSE OF THE RELATED ISSUES WITH THE DEFECTIVE SEAL ALLOWING DAMAGE TO THE DIFFERENTIAL AND RELATED PARTS. ALSO EFFECTIVELY VOIDED MY POWER-TRAIN WARRANTY COVERAGE. THIS PRESENTS A HAZARD OPERATING THE VEHICLE AT CERTAIN SPEEDS WITH BROKEN METAL PARTS IN THE TRANSFER GEARS. I THINK IT REQUIRES A RECALL BECAUSE IT IS INEVITABLE WATER, RAIN, SNOW, EVEN A CAR WASHES WILL GET INTO THE SYSTEM BECAUSE OF THE FAULTY DESIGN. FACTS: VEHICLE HAD PRIOR MAZDA SERVICE AND THERE IS NO EVIDENCE TO SUPPORT MAZDA PRESENTED THE REPAIR OPTION PRIOR TO THE DASH LIGHT APPEARING. MAZDA HAS NO SERVICE OR WARRANTY CHECKS IN PLACE THAT DETECTS THE DAMAGE. THE TIME IT TAKES FOR THAT LEVEL OF RUST BUILD UP TO ACCRUE IS SELF-EVIDENT THIS IS MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE THAT SHOULD REQUIRE A RECALL BUT ALSO A MATTER OF ETHICS AND INTEGRITY. WATER IN YOUR REAR AXLE WILL UNDOUBTEDLY CAUSE FAILURE TO SEALED MECHANICAL COMPONENTS. MAZDA WAS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE FOR YEARS YET DOES NOT OFFER THE CONSUMER ANY ADDITIONAL COVERAGE OR ANY WAY TO PROTECT THEMSELVES FROM A HEFTY REPAIR COSTS OR RISK OF HARM DUE TO THIS FAILURE. THE VEHICLE ITSELF HOLDS EVIDENCE OF DRIVE-TRAIN AND ITS WARNING SYSTEM ARE BOTH DEFECTIVE BECAUSE THE HISTORIC ERROR CODES/MILEAGE IN ITS INTERNAL MEMORY. THE SYSTEM FAILED ALERTING THE ISSUES WELL AFTER THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY EXPIRED.

I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE WITH 36K MILES ON IT, CLEAN CARFAX, WITH ONLY 1 OWNER. WITHIN AN HOUR FROM DRIVING IT HOME FROM THE DEALERSHIP, I NOTICED AN ISSUE WHEN PUTTING IT IN DRIVE. THERE WAS A 5 SECOND DELAY. EVERY SINGLE TIME I PUT IT ON DRIVE, THE DELAY WOULD HAPPEN. IF YOU STEPPED ON THE GAS, IT WOULD ACT AS IF IT WERE IN NEUTRAL AND VIOLENTLY JOLT FORWARD. LUCKILY, I WAS IN A PARKING LOT AND I WAS ABLE TO AVOID ACCIDENTS. I PURCHASED THIS CAR TO TRANSPORT MY CHILDREN BUT I NO LONGER FEEL THAT IT IS SAFE. THE SOLUTION I WAS GIVEN AT THE DEALERSHIP WAS THAT THE TRANSMISSION MAY POTENTIALLY NEED TO BE REPLACED. NOW I UNDERSTAND WHY IT TOOK THEM 3 MONTHS TO SELL THIS CAR. I FEEL LIKE THIS IS UNETHICAL.

COASTING. DRIVING TO A STOP SIGN OR STOP LIGHT OR STOPPING POINT AT A DECLINING SPEED FROM 30MPH TO 25/20/15MPH INTERVALS ARE WHERE THE 'TUGGING'/'STUTTER' HAPPENS. DEALERSHIP SAYS IT IS NORMAL OPERATION FOR THE CAR TO SHIFT INTO GEAR WHEN DECLINING IN SPEEDS. EVEN CORPORATE AGREED WITH THEM. THE ONLY THING THAT IS NOT NORMAL IS HOW COME AWD VARIATION DOESN'T HAVE THIS ISSUE? MY OLDER MAZDA 3 FROM 2009 I DROVE DIDN'T HAVE THIS ISSUE. TESTED A MAZDA 3 NEW 2018 AND THEY HAD THIS ISSUE. ALSO TESTED A SALES DEPARTMENT 2016 FWD CX 5, SIMILAR ISSUE. MY FRIEND WHO IS A PHYSOCLOGIST, HER CX 5 2016 HAS THE SAME TUGGING ISSUE. DEALERSHIP SAID IT COULD BE A TORQUE CONVERTER/TRANSMISSION/ OR COLD WEATHER WITHIN TH TRANSMISSION LINES. NO ERROR CODES WERE PRESENT WHEN THEY CHECKED. THE DRIVING EXPERIENCE SEEMS VERY DEGRADING FOR THE NEWER MODELS. THE ABRUPT TUGGING COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT TO SOMEONE AHEAD OF ME OR THE JERKING COULD MAKE ME HIT THE GAS PEDAL EVEN HARDER. SPOKE TO: SERVICE REQUEST NUMBER 1-1225218842 SPOKE TO ROY FROM MAZDA CSDEPARTMENT 800.222.5500 SELECT PROMPT 2, THEN EXT. 1148. THE CS CALLED DEALERSHIP AND FOLLOWED DEALERSHIP GUIDANCE. IF THIS IS NEW FOR THE VECHICLE AS A STANDARD OF DRIVING, THEN THIS MUST MAKE IT VERY UNPLEASANT AND PREDICTABLE FOR FUTURE ACCIDENTS.

THE VEHICLE WAS BOUGHT BRAND NEW ON 06/30/2015. IT NEEDED A NEW TRANSMISSION AT 20,690 MILES (09/02/16). AT ~43,000 MILES, LEAKS WERE DETECTED. THE MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS POWERTRAIN ISSUES. THE LEAK WAS TRANSMISSION FLUID THAT SPREAD TO THE WHOLE LENGTH OF THE CAR UNDERNEATH. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED, CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP THAT LATER CONFIRMED THE MECHANIC'S DIAGNOSIS. POWERTRAIN WILL BE FIXED AT THE MANUFACTURER'S EXPENSE (THE MANUFACTURER CONSIDERS IT A MANUFACTURING ISSUE AND HAS HONORED THE WARRANTY).

Parked by the curb at the Ft. Lauderdale International Airport. I put the car in Park and left the car idling with the air-conditioning running.as it was 95 degrees and about 100 at around 8:00 AM. There was a shuttle van parked by the curb about 11 feet in front of me. I had to exit my car to talk to the driver in the car behind me. I walked to the car behind me and started talking to the driver. I glanced back at my Mazda CX5 and it started rolling forward. I ran up to the car and got the door open and stepped on the brake. The brakes did not engage. I repeated stepping on the brake several times and the car would not stop. I got in the drivers seat to shift the car into reverse and keep my foot on the brake pedal. The car would not shift into reverse. and by this time the Mazda had pinned to the shuttle van a lady who was trying to unload her luggage. On the sixth attempt to shift into reverse the shifter finally moved into reverse and by standers came to the aid of the lady that had been pinned to the shuttle van. Airport security and the Broward County police took the statements. The lady retrieving her baggage declined medical attention. When I checked to see what the police were reporting they did not acknowledge that I was attempting to stop a runaway vehicle. The report said that I failed to put the car in park and left it in drive. It is not possible to get out of a car that is idling and in gear without the car moving forward or backward before you can even get all the way out of the car. This incident happened about mid July in 2017. Near the end of June this year while in my driveway I left the car idling and in park, exited the car walking to the rear of the car and it dropped into reverse. Got back in the car and shut off the engine. July 2017 the local Mazda dealer inspected the vehicle and could not find as problem. Not unlikely with an intermittent electrical anomaly. There were no prior warning lamps in either incident.

I PURCHASED A 2016 NEW MAZDA CX-5 IN OCTOBER 2016. MY CAR WAS ONLY 5 MONTHS OLD WITH 5411 MILEAGE ON IT WHEN I EXPERIENCED THIS PROBLEM. I WAS PULLING UP MY DRIVEWAY WHEN I GOT IN FRONT OF MY GARAGE DOORS OF MY HOME, WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE ABOUT READY TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK , THE ENGINE BEGAN TO REV UP TO A HIGH RATE OF SPEED AND ACCELERATED INTO MY HOUSE. THE HOUSE STOPPED THE CAR FROM GOING ANY FURTHER. MY HUSBAND WAS IN THE PASSENGER SEAT AND EXPERIENCED THIS AS WELL. I WAS PRESSING DOWN ON THE BRAKE, BUT NOTHING STOPPED IT. I WAS CLOSE DISTANCE TO THE HOUSE AND IT HAPPENED SO FAST. I BACKED OFF MY HOUSE. I HAD TO GET MY GARAGE DOORS REPLACED AND THE CAR FIXED. I DID NOT DRIVE THE CAR AGAIN. ONCE THE BODY SHOP FIXED THE CAR (DAMAGE $2300.00 DOLLARS), I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE CAR TO INVESTIGATE THE PROBLEM. THEY DROVE IT FOR A FEW WEEKS WITH A BLACK BOX, BUT NEVER DETERMINED THE PROBLEM OR IT HAPPENING AGAIN. MAZDA CORPORATION WAS INVOLVED WITH THIS INVESTIGATION. I HAD FILED THE PROBLEM WITH THEM IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE ACCIDENT HAD OCCURRED. I REFUSED TO DRIVE THE CAR AGAIN. THE DEALERSHIP (MAZDA IN MANCHESTER, NH) WORKED A DEAL WITH ME TO BUY THE CAR BACK AND GET ME INTO A NEW 2016 MAZDA CX-5. I HOPE I DON'T EXPERIENCE THIS WITH MY NEW CX-5. I REALLY LIKE THE CAR, BUT I HAVE TO SAY THAT WAS AN EXPERIENCE THAT NO ONE WOULD EVER WANT TO EXPERIENCE. I AM JUST GRATEFUL THAT I WASN'T ON A STREET AND IT HAPPENED TO MY OWN PROPERTY. IT COST QUITE A BIT IN DEDUCTIBLES ON HOUSE AND CAR AND I AM SURE MY RATES WILL GO UP ON INSURANCE ON BOTH. UNFORTUNATELY MAZDA COULD NOT PROVE THERE WAS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE CAR, SO MY INSURANCE COMPANY COULD NOT GO AFTER THEM FOR THE DAMAGES. AS I SAID BEFORE I AM GRATEFUL MY HUSBAND AND I ARE OK AND NO ONE GOT HURT. ALSO, I FOUND 4-6 OTHERS REPORTING THIS SAME COMPLAINT ON THE CX-5.

MY COMPLAINT IS IDENTICAL TO COMPLAINT # 10913740. I SPECIAL ORDERED MY CX-5 & PICKED IT UP FEB 2017.DOES NOT SHIFT PROPERLY, REVS UP TO 6000 BEFORE ENGAGING, CAN'T ACCELERATE WHEN I NEED TO (LIKE MERGING ON FREEWAY OR CHANGING LANES). PLEASE SEE COMPLAINT # 10913740 BECAUSE HE DESCRIBES IT BETTER THAN I, A NON "CAR PERSON" CAN. I'VE PUT MY MY GAS FOOT TO THE FLOOR TRYING TO GAIN SOME SPEED SO I WOULDN'T GET REAR ENDED AND IT TAKES, LITERALLY, ABOUT 10 SECONDS TO RESPOND AT ALL. THE DEALER CLAIMS IT IS SHIFTING AS DESIGNED & SAYS THEY CAN'T RECREATE THE PROBLEM. CAR WAS THERE @3600 MILES & THEY TOLD ME THE TECH COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR BUT DID I WANT A DRIVE WITH HIM. I DID ONE, & HE TRIED TO TELL ME THAT REVVING TO 5000 WHEN ON A SMALL INCLINE WAS NORMAL. THIS IS A LIE. I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK AGAIN- IT WAS IN FOR 7 DAYS. 2ND TIME MANUFACTURER INVOLVED, & SUPPOSEDLY ITS ENGINEERS WOULD WORK ON IT. BUT ALL THEY DID IS RUN DIAGNOSTICS (DOESN'T ANYBODY ACTUALLY LOOK AT THE ACTUAL CAR ANYMORE - COMPUTERS DO MALFUNCTION) AND WHAT THEY CAME UP WITH IS THAT I WAS ENGAGING THE GAS AND THE BRAKE AT THE SAME TIME, CAUSING THE CAR NOT TO SHIFT. FIRST OF ALL, MY TINY FOOT COULDN'T BE ON BOTH PEDALS IF I TRIED; SECOND, MY LEFT FOOT IS A CLUTCH FOOT. I AM SO USED TO USING IT ON A CLUTCH ONLY THAT IT DANGLES WHERE A CLUTCH WOULD BE IF I HADN'T BOUGHT THIS STUPID AUTOMATIC 2016 CX-5. SO NOW MAZDA IS SAYING THAT THEIR ENGINEERS & DEALER TECHNICIANS ARE INFALLIBLE AND THEY WILL DO NOTHING FOR ME. MEANWHILE, I AM STUCK WITH THIS POS I BOUGHT FOR $27,000 CASH WHICH IS NOT ONLY DANGEROUS BUT EXTREMELY UN-FUN TO DRIVE DUE TO THE JERKING, REVVING, ETC., WHICH ARE VERY UNNERVING, AND WITH 5000 MILES ON CAR, I SHOULD WANT TO DRIVE IT. INSTEAD I AM DRIVING MY NEARLY 12 YEAR OLD VW SO THAT I CAN GET PLACES SAFELY AND WITHOUT THE JARRING PROBLEM OF THE MAZDA.

PARKED MY CAR. OPEN UP DRIVERS DOOR , RADIO AND DASH LIGHTS CAME ON. STANDING ON DRIVEWAY NOW PUSH BUTTON TO TURN OFF RADIO AND DASH. EVERYTHING CAME BACK ON. DID IT THREE TIMES AND ON THE THIRD TIME VEHICLE STARTED TO ROLL BACKWARDS. HAD TO CURLY ON THE FLOOR BARD AND DOOR WIDE OPEN. VEHICLE GAINING SPEED, ENGINE OFF, LOOK AT GEAR SHIFT SAYING IT'S IN PARK STILL. I HAD TO JUMP OUT OF VEHICLE BECAUSE I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO DIE. NEIGHBOR CAME TO HELP ME OUT AND CALLED 911 WHO SENT AN AMBULANCE AND POLICE. PARAMEDICS ATTENDED TO MY NEEDS AND RUSHED ME TO THE HOSPITAL. POLICE ASK THE NEIGHBORS IF SOMEONE WAS INSIDE THE VEHICLE AND THEY SAID NO. POLICE REPORT SHOWS VEHICLE STILL IN PARK. VEHICLE HIT A TREE AND HIGH CENTER ON A PGE ELECTRICAL BOX. NOW VEHICLE IS AT A DEALERSHIP WHO TOLD MY FATHER UNDER THE TABLE THEY WERE ABLE TO DUPLICATE CONCERNS BUT WILL NOT NOTE IT ON THE REPAIR ORDER. THEY LOOKED AT SENSORS AND KNOW CODES APPEARED. ONCE MY FATHER MENTION HE WORKED AT A DEALERSHIP THEY MENTION THAT I MUST HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE IN REVERSE. IF I STAND OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND FOR A GOOD MINUTE TO TWO MINUTES AND IT SHOWED IN PARK THE WHOLE TIME, THERE IS SOMETHING ELECTRICAL GOING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. IF YOU GOOGLE RADIO IS STAYING ON WHEN VEHICLE IS SHUT OFF REGARDING THESE MAKE AND MODEL THERE ARE SEVERAL CASES OF THIS HAPPENING. PEOPLE SAY THEY HAVE TO SLAM THE VEHICLE INTO PARK TO GET THE RADIO TO WORK. SOME PEOPLE HAD A BRAKE SENSOR REPLACE WHICH FINALLY FIXED THE CONCERN....UPDATED 03/29/17 *BF *CN