2010 Mazda Mazda3 Electrical System Problems

The AT light came on the dash, added transmission fluid because it was a little low but the light still has not gone off. I think there is an electrical problem within the transmission. It's had shifting issues since purchasing this vehicle. I also have a small child that comes with me to work and I do not want my car to catch on fire while we are in this vehicle.

NHTSA Complaint Narrative I am filing this complaint regarding a 2010 Mazda 3, VIN [XXX] . The vehicle experiences intermittent transmission control failures, including difficulty shifting out of first gear and warning indicators triggered by vibration. The transmission and transmission control module have already been replaced. The dealership has identified the wiring harness as the cause of the remaining failure. Mazda North American Operations has confirmed that the required wiring harness (BBM9-67-020H) is discontinued and unavailable. However, Mazda has not provided a written determination of whether the known wiring harness recall (engine wiring harness chafing affecting control systems) applies to this VIN, nor confirmed recall completion history. Mazda has advised the customer to seek aftermarket or salvage parts, but has not provided an approved repair remedy or goodwill assistance despite the issue affecting drivability and safety. I am requesting that NHTSA review whether Mazda has met its obligations regarding: 1.recall applicability determination by VIN, and 2.providing an adequate remedy when OEM repair parts are no longer available for a safety-related defect. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The a.b.s pump module is defective in these vehicles. There are tons of people having issues with them. When they fail it happens suddenly resulting in brake failure, power steering failure, the car does not like to shut off, the vehicle will go into "limp mode" and every light on the dash comes on. The part itself is costing close to $1000 u.s.d . With all of tge effected things tgat go with it i believe it can be very dangerous and should be recalled

TCM has failed to communicate in engine. Car doesn’t not shift properly or has hard shifts if it is able to get back into gear. Car may experience AT engagement making it hard to steer and control vehicle. Can happen in the middle of driving. Independent service Auto mechanic shop Vehicle has no warning lights indicating failure until hard shift when driving 50miles per hour and engine would no longer speed up AT light then came on. Once parked for two days check engine light came on and vehicle no longer would shift into gear.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated upon opening the driver's side door, she noticed that the front driver's side seat had independently moved closer to the steering wheel. The contact stated that the seat failed to move back to the original position after several attempts. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact was able to squeeze herself into the seat and drove to the dealer, who informed the contact that the driver's side seat bolts needed to be broken to move the seat. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V082000 (Seats); however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 61,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated that the adhesive tape on the instrument panel was melt, making it difficult to see the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who stated that the instrument panel needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and made aware of failure. The contact was informed that an Extended Warranty for the failure had expired. The failure mileage was 105,000.

Electrical system drains battery, have purchased several new batteries annually. With a new battery, the car while being driven, shut off, lost power steering and abs on road. Car has been parked since and battery drain still occurring while car is parked

HORN WORKS ON AND OFF, CAR IS UNABLE TO REVERSE (PUT THE CAR IN DRIVE WAS ABLE TO GO FORWARD,TURNED THE CAR OFF WENT TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AND NOW THE REVERSE GEAR DOES NOT WORK,TRANSMISSION CLUTCH GETS STUCK AND TAKES OFF UNEXPECTEDLY AT A FAST SPEED WITHOUT PRESSING THE GAS

HAS I WAS DRIVING MY CAR HOME FROM WORK. DRIVING ABOUT 35MPH I STARTED TO LOOSE POWER AND THEN THE AT, ENGINE, TCS/DSC LIGHTS ALL CAME ON. WHEN I MADE IT HOME I LET IT SIT. WHILE I LOOKED INTO THE ISSUE ON GOOGLE LATER THAT EVENING I WENT BACK TO SEE IF MY CAR WAS STILL HAVING THE ISSUE. I PLACED THE CAR IN REVERSE AND MY CAR JUMPED/ JERKED REAL HARD. AS I LET GO OF THE BREAK I NOTICED MY CAR DIDN'T SLOWLY MOVE ON ITS OWN LIKE PRIOR. I ACTUALLY HAD TO PRESS THE GAS DOWN QUITE A BIT. MY CAR REVVED UP TO 3 MAKING A LOUD NOISE. THE CAR HAD NO POWER WOULD HARDLY MOVE. AS I RESEARCHED THE PROBLEMS AND LIGHT ISSUES IT WAS KINDA A SURPRISE HOW EASY IT WAS TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE ISSUE WAS. SINCE THIS IS A VERY VERY COMMON ISSUE FOUND WITH THE MAZDA CARS. SO MANY PEOPLE HAVE THIS ISSUE THAT WHEN YOU ORDER THE PART AT OVER $600.00 IN THE DIRECTIONS THAT IS SENT THEY ACTUALLY RECOMMEND RELOCATING THE TCM TO A DIFFERENT LOCATION USING ZIPTIES. WENT TO HAVE CAR CODES READ ON MY CAR INFORMED THE GUY WHAT I BELIEVED IT TO BE AND THE MOST LIKELY WILL BE U0101 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM, AND I WAS CORRECT.

I BELIEVE THAT (RECALL CAMPAIGN 0917B) SAFETY RECALL APPLIES TO MY 2010 MAZDA3 GT, ALTHOUGH IT TOOK OVER 2.5 YEARS TO OCCUR (AUGUST 2017) THE COMPLETE FALLOUTS DIDN'T HAPPEN UNTIL NOW...(DECEMBER 2020) INITIALLY, FELT A POP IN MY BACK (FROM THE FRAME?) WHILE I WAS DRIVING, PULLED OVER AND THE SEATS MOVED FINE SO DIDN'T THINK ANYTHING OF. MEANWHILE, A DISTINCT RATTLING OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY BEHIND ME. TOOK THE CAR TO THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP (PAID THEIR SPECIAL SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC FEE OF ($165+) WITH 'MASTER TECHNICIANS' WHO KNOW ABOUT THIS SEAT RECALL, YET, FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE SEAT OR EVEN LOOKED IF YOU ASK ME, YET WANTED ME TO CORRECT THE NOISE BY BY INSTALLING BOTH FRONT AND REAR NEW SUSPENSION (~$1000). TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A SUSPENSION SPECIALIST AND FOUND ONLY ONE (1) PART OF THE SUSPENSION THAT MAY HAVE REQUIRED CORRECTING BUT WAS STILL IN GOOD CONDITION. I ASKED IF THE REMAINING SUSPENSION COMPONENTS WERE SAFE AND IF THEY WOULD NEED REPLACEMENT. AND THEY SAID'NO' ONLY ONE (1), AND IT WAS BARELY DAMAGED, BUT I REPLACED IT ANYWAY. TOOK IT BACK FOR AN OIL CHANGE SINCE THEY WERE TREATING ME HONESTLY. TWO DAYS LATER, AS I WAS LEAVING MY WORK, THE SEAT FELL OFF THE RIGHT RAIL AS I WAS DRIVING. IN RETROSPECT, THE PUSH NUTS ON THE RIGHT SIDE POPPED OFF AND THE DRIVER'S SEAT BACK FRAME HAS LOST ITS INTEGRITY, SO I SAT ASKEW. UNABLE TO DRIVE SAFELY UNLESS A PIECE OF WOOD IS HOLDING THE SEAT TO THE RAIL. IS IT POSSIBLE TO STILL REPAIR MY CAR'S DRIVER'S SEAT UNDER THE AFOREMENTIONED SAFETY RECALL? I DON'T FEEL SAFE DRIVING AND AM WITHOUT OPTIONS AT THIS TIME. PLEASE HELP!!

I AM HAVING A STARTER PROBLEM. I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY AND HAVE HAD DIAGNOSTICS DONE ON ALTERNATOR AND STARTER. BOTH PASSED EXCEPT THERE WAS A RECALL ON 2010 MAZDA'S THAT ISN'T SHOWING UNDER MY VIN NUMBER. RECALL NUMBER 09V126000. I'VE TAKEN IT TO GET LOOKED AT AND HAVE AN APPOINTMENT WITH MAZDA. I JUST DON'T WANT TO BE REJECTED FOR THIS RECALL.

AS SOON AS POSSIBLE AS YOU CAN DO IT SO IT CAN BE FIX AND DRIVE RIGHT AND I YOU CAN COME AND GET IT AND I NEED A RENTAL CAR UNTIL MY IS FIX

AT APPROXIMATELY 49,000 MILES THE LEFT FRONT PASSENGER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR AND LATCH STARTED TO FAIL. THIS CAUSES THE LOCKS TO LOCK AND UNLOCK REPEATEDLY AT ALL SPEEDS. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY AND IS SOMETIMES MADE WORSE DEPENDING ON TEMPERATURE OR HOW BUMPY THE ROAD IS. I HAVE NARROWED IT DOWN TO THE CONNECTOR ON THE ACTUATOR BEING LOOSE AND NOT ALWAYS MAKING A GOOD CONNECTION. THE ISSUE CAUSES ALL DOORS TO LOCK AND UNLOCK OR JUST STAY UNLOCKED WHILE DRIVING. I ALSO HAVE TO KEEP THE DOME LIGHTS TURNED OFF BECAUSE SOMETIMES THEY WOULD STAY ON. THE COMPUTER WAS THINKING THAT THE DOOR WAS OPEN. I'M SETTING THE DATE OF IT HAPPENING AT THE BEGINNING OF THE MONTH BUT IT HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SOME TIME NOW.

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR BEGAN STALLING AS I DROVE ON THE FREEWAY. IT STALLS AND FEELS LIKE IT WON'T CHANGE GEARS. TOOK IT TO A SHOP AND THEY KEPT TELLING ME THE COMPUTER CODE WAS NOT GIVING THEM ANY INFORMATION AND THEY COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG WITH IT.

EVERYTHING NEED'S TO BE REPAIR ON IT ASAP AS YOU CAN DO IT SO THE CAR CAN BE FIX

THERE IS A RECALL APPLICABLE TO MY VEHICLE WHICH REQUIRES THAT ENGINE MOUNTS BE STABLILZED. IT MAKES MY CAR VIBRATE AND THE ENGINE SOUNDS LOUD WHILE SEATED IN THE VEHICLE. I HAVE TAKEN MY CAR TO A COUPLE OF DEALERS AND THEY SAY THEY DON'T HAVE THE REQUIRED PART. I WAS SCARED TO DRIVE MY CAR.BECAUSE IT WAS SMOKING FROM UNDER THE HOOD. I LET IT SIT IN MY GARAGE SINCE 2008. I FINALLY TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC WHO TOLD ME THAT THE ENGINE HAD CAUSED A HOLE IN THE COOLANT TANK AND IT WAS LEAKING COOLANT. THAT'S WHY IT OVERHEATED. THE CAR RUNS FINE NOW, BUT NEEDS TO HAVE THE ENGINE MOUNT PUT IN. WHAT DO I DO NOW? IN ADDITION, MY DRIVER SIDE WINDOW WILL NOT OPERATE. I THOUGHT THIS WAS A FUSE ISSUE, BUT ANOTHER MAZDA 3 OWNER TOLD ME THEY HAVE THE SAME ISSUE

ENGINE STALLS DUE TO VIBRATION WHILE DRIVING. THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS EXACT PROBLEM, BUT MAZDA ISNT HONORING WITHOUT ME PAYING FOR REPAIS FIRST. AS I WAS TURNING IN FRONT OF AN 18 WHEELER DASH LIGHTS CAME ON AND I TEMPORARILY LOST POWER. SHUT OFF AND BACK ON AGAIN

WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE DASH LIGHTS START BLINKING AND CAR STOPS ACCELERATING, TURNS ON BY WON'T MOVE. MECHANIC SAYS ENGINE IS NOT COMMUNICATING WITH TRANSMISSION. ELECTRICAL ISSUE SEEMS LIKE. WHEN IT RESTS IT WILL WORK BUT THEN AFTER DRIVING IT HAPPENS AGAIN. IT JUST STOPS WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING, DANGEROUS.

I'VE SCHEDULED THE RECALL REPAIRS THREE TIMES ,WITH THREE DIFFERENT MAZDA DEALERSHIPS, SINCE JUNE 2018, WHEN MY HATCHBACK SMASHED AGAINST MY HEAD (PICTURES ATTACHED). EACH TIME A DAY OR TWO BEFORE THE SCHEDULED RECALL REPAIRS EACH DEALERSHIP HAD CALLED AND CANCELED THE RECALL REPAIRS WITH NO AVAILABILITY ON A RESCHEDULE DATE AVAILABLE. THIS IS COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE. I ATTEMPTED TO RESCHEDULE THE RECALL REPAIRS TODAY AUGUST 21,2019 , THERE IS NO DATES AVAILABLE AT ANY MAZDA DEALERSHIPS WITHIN 100 MILES OF MY LOCATION FOR MORE THAN ONE YEAR FROM NOW. SO IN MY OPINION THIS IS MAZDA COMPLETELY FAILING TO COMPLETE A TIMELY REPAIR ON MAZDA RECALLS. *TT *TR

PUSH BUTTON START MALFUNCTION, CAUSING INSTRUMENT PANEL TO LIGHT UP AND BEHAVE ERRATICALLY. CAR OBVIOUSLY NOT SAFE TO DRIVE AT THAT POINT. SHIFTING INTO REVERSE LOUDER THAN NORMAL AND VERY NOTICEABLE JERK. SAME RESULT WHEN SHIFTING BACK TO DRIVE. DID NOT ATTEMPT ANY MOVEMENT. SHUT OFF ENGINE. WAITED SEVERAL SECONDS, ATTEMPTED RESTART, BUT ENGINE WOULD NOT RESTART. INSTRUMENT PANEL WAS LIT UP WITH A RED KEY INDICATOR LIGHT. TOWED TO DEALER. COULD NOT DIAGNOSE FAILURE. RESET SYSTEM, RAN FULL DIAGNOSTIC, NO FAILURE CODES REPORTED. DROVE FINE FOR 2 DAYS, ON 3RD DAY, PROBLEM REPEATED ITSELF, CAR IS NOW BACK AT THE DEALER WAITING ON REPAIR/DIAGNOSIS. CAR WAS PARKED IN HOME GARAGE SOUTHERN AZ ON BOTH OCCASIONS.