There are 4 stored owner reports matching the electrical system leading-label group for the 2018 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport in our NHTSA-sourced dataset. These are unverified consumer reports and may not reflect confirmed defects.
This group counts stored reports whose component label starts with one of this site's matching prefixes, ignoring case. Each matching report counts once within the group. Components mentioned later in the label or only in the narrative are not searched. How component counts work
Loaded 4 of 4 matching reports.
Open the full vehicle complaint log (all categories)The driver seatbelt come unattached while driving. The car looses electric system while driving
On 07/01/2022 low beam & high beams went out at the same time. Driving without headlights at night when they went out. Could have hit anything not knowing I didn't have any lights. Someone yelled at me from another vehicle to let me know my lights wasn't on keep turning lights on nothing. Made appt. with York Mitsubishi they seen me on 07/19/2022 they said the ETACS need to be replace control unit, time & AL8637 Power to fuse block no power to fuse @14.15 to light plugs, ETACS wont Ground -> will not power relay -> To power fuses -> To power bulbs.
ON MAY 1, 2020 I DROVE ABOUT 15 MILES FROM MY HOME TO MEDFORD, OREGON. I MADE ONE STOP AND UPON GETTING BACK INTO THE VEHICLE, I COULD NOT START OR TURN OFF THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENT OF THE VEHICLE. THE MAINFRAME KEPT SHOWING "ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED" I COULD NOT LOCK THE VEHICLE FOR SAFETY. I COULD NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE AS IT IS ITS MAIN PURPOSE. I COULD NOT TURN OFF THE UNIT WHICH MOST LIKELY RAN THE BATTERY DOWN AND IS MOST LIKELY DEAD. IT HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE NEAREST DEALERSHIP WHICH CANNOT ACCESS RECALL INFORMATION. THEY WANT TO CHARGE ME $150 TO DIAGNOSE, AND CANNOT PERFORM ANY RECALL WORK. I PURCHASED THIS CAR TO AVOID GETTING FIRED FROM A JOB THAT I HAD TO TRAVEL AN HOUR EACH WAY. THREE MONTHS LATER THEY LAID ME OFF. NOW THE CAR I PURCHASED IS NOT WORKING. I HAD CONTACTED THE PLACE I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM AFTER I PURCHASED BEFORE THIS HAPPENED TO GET HELP WITH THE RECALL WHICH THEY ASSURED ME THERE WAS A PLACE LOCALLY. WHICH THERE IS NOT. THE CLOSEST PLACE IS CALIFORNIA OR PORTLAND. NOW THAT THE CAR IS NOT DRIVEABLE, I CANNOT GET IT TO THE RIGHT DEALERSHIP TO BE FIXED UNDER WARRANTY. I DON'T HAVE EXTRA FINANCES TO MANAGE THIS. I AM A SINGLE PARENT ON UNEMPLOYMENT AND I NEED A VEHICLE TO BE ABLE TO WORK. THIS SITUATION IS CRITICAL AND I AM VERY UPSET AND DISAPPOINTED IN THE LACK OF HELP AND SUPPORT I HAVE RECEIVED TO HAVE A WORKING SAFE RELIABLE VEHICLE. SITUATION: I DROVE TO TOWN. PARKED IN A PARKING LOT. WHEN I RETURNED TO THE VEHICLE. IT WOULD NOT START. BRAKES ARE LOCKED. STEARING WHEEL LOCKED. SHIFTER LOCKED. RADIO ON. ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD NOT SHUT OFF DRAINING THE BATTERY. WINDOWS CAN ROLL DOWN, BUT CANNOT USE POWER LOCKS TO LOCK THE VEHICLE.
PUSH BUTTON START FAILED. DASH MESSAGE "ELECTRICAL FAILURE". CAR WAS PARKED. TRIED TO START. BUTTON STARTED FLASHING AND MESSAGE APPEARED ON DASHBOARD. AFTER SECOND ATTEMPT, HEARD AN ELECTRICAL SHORT BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX AREA.
Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA. A high complaint count may reflect vehicle popularity, not defect severity. Data sourced from NHTSA public records.
NHTSA source checks for this vehicle year
Checks are recorded separately for each dataset, not for the whole page. Dates use UTC. A missing check date does not mean no records exist.
Vehicle import recorded: Apr 28, 2026. This is the stored import date, not confirmation that every source was successfully refreshed.