2016 Subaru WRX Complaint Log

Driving and a loud explosion, sound, like a gunshot then a ton of pinging. The sunroof exploded and glass flew down my car and chipped a bunch of paint.

While driving, the clutch became stiff and unusable. Ultimately the car could not be shifted resulting in using a lower gear than normal to limp the car to safety. The car had to be towed to a mechanic. During the repair the mechanic identified that the cause of the failure was the clutch fork pivot ball punched through the stamped steel clutch fork. Looking online this seems to be a common failure since aftermarket re-designed parts are offered. I feel this is a manufacturer defect which resulted in the clutch failure and a 2500.00 repair. This car is only 7 years old with 67K miles on it. The clutch fork should not have failed catastrophically at this point in the car's life.

I have faulty rear lights and a faulty rear view camera. According to MotorSafety.org there is currently a recall for this exact issue for WRX’s from 2015-2021. https://www.motorsafety.org/subaru-recalls-wrx-cars-over-faulty-rear-lights-rearview-camera-issue/

recurring battery drain, which has happened before. subaru dealer replaced the battery for the same reason less than 2 years ago. now it needs it again. car is inoperable as is.

I PURCHASED A 2016 SUBARU WRX (PREMIUM) USED FROM A SUBARU DEALER IN ALBANY, NY WITH UNDER 26K MILES FOR APPROXIMATELY $25K IN 2018. ON A DRIVE IN DECEMBER 2022 I EXPERIENCED HESITATION AND/OR STUTTERING UNDER LOAD OR WHEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, AND CAR BEGAN GETTING VERY HOT, AND CLOSE TO OVERHEATING, AND THE ENGINE WAS KNOCKING LOUDLY. AFTER TURNING ENGINE OFF AND THEN RESTARTING, THE KNOCKING (INTENSITY) WAS NOT AS NOTICEABLE AS THE INITIAL INCIDENT. INITIALLY I REPLACED ALL COIL OVER PLUGS, AS CYLINDER #4 INITIALLY WAS REPORTING A MISFIRE CODE AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THIS APPEARED TO RELIEVE THE MISFIRE BRIEFLY, BUT THE ISSUE IMMEDIATELY RETURNED, THIS TIME WITH PISTON #3 REPORTING MISFIRES AND ALSO EXHIBITING SIGNS OF A POSSIBLE FAILED RINGLAND, WITH OIL SEEPING PAST RINGS (ON TO / IN SPARK PLUG) CAUSING THE ENGINE TO RUN VERY POORLY. PRESENTLY UPON STARTUP WHITE SMOKE COMES FROM EXHAUST OUT THE TAILPIPE AND THE ENGINE IS HESITATING AND/OR MISSING, RUNNING POORLY AND I FEEL IT CANNOT BE DRIVEN SAFELY WITH THE DIMINISHED PERMORMANCE OR COMPLETE LACK OF ABILITY TO ACCELERATE NORMALLY LIKE A MOTOR VEHICLE SHOULD. I HAVE ENGAGED A MECHANIC TO INSPECT THE ENGINE, BUT HAVE NOT YET PROCEEDED WITH INSPECTION/REPAIRS DUE TO THE CLASS ACTION LITIGATION. CURRENT MILEAGE IS: 73563. THIS CAR HAS AN FA20 ENGINE.

Started having issue with the engine making loud rattle noises and oil pressure was not consistent. Upon further investigating I removed the oil pan and removed the oil pickup. The oil pickup screen was full of RTV sealant causing the oil pickup to struggle with maintaining proper oil pressure and flow to the engine. I ended up having to change my timing belt tensioners because one went bad. Probably because of low oil pressure or RTV was sucked into oil galleys and caused it to malfunction. My car sounds a little better now but I believe I also have a light amount of rod knocking. If I kept driving the car, This could have led to catastrophic engine damage and caused my car to stall while traveling on public roads. I later researched if others have seen this issue and it appear to be a common issue in with Subaru and Toyota vehicles using the FA20DIT engine. These engine already have small enough rods, they don't need to be robbed of oil and cause engine damage because the manufacturer applied too much RTV sealant in assembly. There needs to be a recall on this.

The Seconary Air Injection pump stayed on for days. Burnt a hole in the side, relay possibly damaged, and now setting off other components and computers.

My power steering one day lost all fluid out of no where. I have this awful sound and go buy new power steering fluid. It’s continuing to leak. I joined a Subaru Wrx/STi group on Facebook and found that this is a reoccurring problem for many Subaru sti owners around the year I have. It sounds faulty and defective and sucks that the customer is stuck paying for these issues instead of Subaru fixing their reoccurring issue with many customers. I baby my car to the highest extent and the power steering should not have just gone out after I parked in my drive way. There is a massive stain now due to the leakage, which is fine. But it’s inconvenient knowing I’ll have to fork up hundreds to over a thousand to get this properly fixed instead of a DIY where it has to do with such an important compartment of the car.

ABS, cruise control, and other driving assistance features are disabled while driving at night. I checked for recalls on Subaru WRXs and noticed a recall was issued for the same problems on 2011-2015 models. My vehicle is a 2016 model and demonstrates all the same failures observed from the recall of the 2011-2015 models.

The battery on my 2016 Subaru WRX has drained - twice - while parked for a week or less. This has occurred before and after replacing the battery at the dealership. Both times the battery was recharged by AAA and driven for 30-45 minutes to bring the battery back to full charge.

Several batteries that have died prematurely, last one only 2 months since last use. Vehicle has refused to start on several occasions, despite the battery being okay. Suspect issues with controller area network.

While driving in below zero temperatures I received a warning "Headlights Disabled" and my headlights were inoperable. I was able to use the high beams otherwise, complete darkness causing an immanent safety concern and potential for financial loss in terms of legality and ticketing. The failure remained in effect for approximately 10 minutes and then the warning disappeared and the light regained full operation. Upon googling, this is a common issue with other owners. Please note, I am in Canada and have provided a state/zip code of the nearest US location. Sorry if not allowed :)

2016 WRX drains its battery while the vehicle is turned off. After 3 days of being outside in 20-40 degree Fahrenheit weather, the battery was completely flat and would not start. This has happened 2 winters in a row now.

THE TURBO CHARGER INTAKE DUCT CRACKED ON MY CAR, THIS IS THE NEW ONE THAT REPLACED MY RECALLED ONE. BUT CLEARLY WAS NOT A SOLUTION. I POSTED THIS ON A FORM AND A LARGE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE COMMENTED STATING THEY HAD THE SAME ISSUE. RANGING FROM 15 WRX TO 18 MAYBE EVEN NEWER. WHATEVER THEY USED TO GLUE THE AIR BYPASS CONNECTOR TO THE TURBO DUCT DOES NOT HOLD UP. IT CRACKED AND COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM THE PART. THIS ALLOWED DIRTY AIR TO CONTAMINATE MY TURBO AND ENGINE. POSSIBLY CAUSING PREMATURE WEAR IN THE FUTURE. THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED BECAUSE THE CAR CAN COMPLETELY STALL IF IT FAILS.

WINDSHIELD KEEPS GETTING CHIPPED AND CRACKED. ALREADY HAS GONE THROUGH ONE WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT. NOW THE SECOND ONE HAS TWO CHIPS ALREADY AND CAN PRETTY MUCH CRACK ANYTIME.

"TAKATA RECALL" TOOK MY CAR TO A LOCAL SHOP BECAUSE IT WAS LACKING POWER AND HAD LOW MPG READINGS. FOUND A BOOST LEAK IN THE TOP INTER-COOLER AND EXPRESSED THAT ALL THE 2016 WRX THAT COME IN THIS HAPPENS QUITE OFTEN. FORUMS AND ONLINE POSTS VERIFIED THIS PROBLEM, THE CAR IS A 2016 SO ITS FAIRLY NEW THIS SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING.

VEHICLE DID NOT MEET INSPECTION / WHEEL ALIGNMENT VEHICLE WAS PARKED NEAR A HIGH VOLTAGE POWER LINE DURING WHICH ATMOSPHERIC / AND NATURAL OCCOURANACE ELECTRIC DISTURBANCE CAUSED A ELECTRIC DISTURBANCE VEHICLE IS BEEN RECALLED HOMELESS AT THE TIME OF THE VEHICLE WAS SCHEDULED TO BE TURNED OVER TO DEALER SHIP FAMILY AND FRIENDS HAVE BEEN HELPFUL IN STORAGE I BELIEVE ITS SAFETY / NOT COMPLIANT WITH NTSB FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS IS NEEDED.

DOORS WILL NOT UNLOCK IN KEY FOB PRESS. WILL BEEP CONTINIOUSLY, ONE DOOR WILL INTERMITTENTLY NOT OPEN. ONLY AFFECTS MY DRIVER SIDE DOOR.

RECALL CLUTCH CHANGE BRAKES ELECTRICAL AND EMISSIONS SEEM TO BE FAILING TUCSON, AZ SUBARU PALM SPRINGS ,CA SUBARU IN MOTION SYSTEMS SYSTEMS FAILURE

FRONT END COLLISION VS DEER ON INTERSTATE AT APPROXIMATELY 75 MPH. 4-5 MINUTES AFTER THE ACCIDENT THE ENGINE CAUGHT ON FIRE. THE CAR IS A TOTAL LOSS. NO ONE WAS INJURED. WE ALL WERE OUT OF THE CAR AT THE TIME THE FIRE STARTED.

OUT OF NOWHERE, THE INFORMATION SCREEN IN THE CENTER OF THE DASH DISPLAYED "HEADLIGHTS DISABLED" THE HEADLIGHTS TURNED OFFI FLICKED THE SWITCH ON AND OFF AND IT CAME BACK ON AND THEN ONLY ONE OF THE HEADLIGHTS WERE ON AND THE OTHER WAS OFF AND WOULDN'T COME BACK ON. ONE HOUR LATER TURNED THE CAR BACK ON AND THE HEADLIGHTS WERE OK

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AND THE CAR LOST A LITTLE POWER START TO SLOW DOWN TILL IT EVENTUALLY STALLED OUT AND NOW IT STARTS BUT DOES NOT STAY RUNNING.

AFTER LEAVING WORK AND DRIVING LESS THAN ONE MILE, THE VEHICLE'S ENGINE STALLED WHILE APPROACHING A CONTROLLED INTERSECTION. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE PLACED INTO PARK AND RESTARTED. THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE WAS 80 DEGREES; MOST AUXILIARY SYSTEMS WERE NOT IN USE AT THE TIME THE INCIDENT OCCURRED EXCEPT FOR THE RADIO. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT BEING OPERATED IN ITS OPTIONAL "PADDLE SHIFTER" MODE--IT WAS IN THE STANDARD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SETTING. THE VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY BEING ASSESSED AT A DEALERSHIP, ALTHOUGH PRELIMINARY DIAGNOSIS FROM A DEALERSHIP REPRESENTATIVE INDICATES THERE IS "NOTHING WRONG." HOWEVER, A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH OF "2015+ SUBARU WRX CVT STALLING" YIELDS A NUMBER OF OTHER VEHICLES THAT HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME ISSUE--THE VEHICLE STALLING WHILE AT LOW SPEEDS. SOME OF THE OTHER OWNERS HAVE INDICATED THEY HAVE PAID FOR THE REPLACEMENT OF OIL CONTROL VALVES FROM THEIR OWN POCKET TO RESOLVE THE ISSUE. SINCE THE VEHICLE IS PRONE TO STALLING, THIS CREATES A SIGNIFICANT SAFETY ISSUE FOR WRX OPERATES AS WELL AS OTHER MOTORISTS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU WRX. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE CRUISE CONTROL FAILED TO FUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO SUBARU OF JACKSONVILLE (10800 ATLANTIC BLVD, JACKSONVILLE, FL 32225) FOR THE FAILURES AT LEAST THREE TIMES AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WAS SERVICED, BUT THE FAILURES PERSISTED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE SENSOR FAILURE WAS DUE TO A FAULTY COMPUTER SYSTEM THAT NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,000.

PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. I KEPT GETTING "HEADLIGHT DISABLED" MESSAGE ON DASH, WITH CONDENSATION BUILDING UP ON THE PASSENGER HEADLIGHT, BUT THE HEADLIGHT KEPT WORKING SO I GAVE IT A WEEK AND NOW PASSENGER SIDE IS COMPLETELY OUT. I TOOK IT TO SUBARU AND THEY SAID THEY WILL REPLACE THE BULB. AFTER TAKING MY CAR IN TO REPLACE THE BULB, THEY REALIZED MY CAR REQUIRES A FULL REPLACEMENT OF THE HEADLIGHT. IT'S ONLY BEEN TWO YEARS AND IT COSTS $840 FOR THE HEADLIGHT AND $1000+ WITH LABOR JUST TO FIX A LOW BEAM. I HAVE EXTENDED WARRANTY COMPLETE PACKAGE AND IT WASN'T COVERED. THERE IS A BAD SEAL AND A BAD DESIGN IN THESE MODELS. TWO YEAR OLD CAR SHOULDN'T BE HAVING THESE KIND OF ISSUES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU WRX STI. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE WOULD OVERHEAT, BUT NO SMOKE WAS PRESENT. THE ODOMETER GAUGE NEEDLE MOVED TO THE HOT INDICATOR. THE CONTACT WOULD TURN OFF AND RESTART THE VEHICLE, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO SPURR SUBARU (6331 BROCKPORT SPENCERPORT RD, BROCKPORT, NY 14420, (585)-637-9582) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE THERMOSTAT FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE'S LEASE EXPIRED IN TWO MONTHS AND TO TURN IN THE VEHICLE AFTER IT EXPIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 23,000. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN.

MY COMPLAINT PERTAINS TO MY 2016 SUBARU WRX CLUTCH. THE CLUTCH STOPPED WORKING AFTER APPROXIMATELY 14,000 MILES AND 15 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP AND SUBARU OF AMERICA HAVE JUDGED THIS TO BE REGULAR USER WEAR AND TEAR AND ARE NOT COVERING IT UNDER WARRANTY. I WAS TOLD BY THE SERVICE MANAGER AND THE SOA THAT THIS IS NOT AN UNUSUAL OCCURRENCE. THE CLUTCH FAILED WITHOUT WARNING IN DECEMBER 2016 WHILE I WAS TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY AT ABOUT 60 MPH. I HAD PUT THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL WHILE COASTING DOWN A HILL. WHEN I TRIED TO RE-ENTER GEAR AT THE BASE OF THE HILL I FOUND THE GEAR BOX RESISTED ENTERING ALL GEARS. I WAS UNABLE TO PUT THE CAR BACK INTO GEAR AND WAS FORCED TO MAKE AN EMERGENCY EXIT FROM THE FLOW OF TRAFFIC TO THE SHOULDER. MY CAR ONLY REENGAGED INTO GEAR WHEN I TURNED IT OFF, PUT THE CAR INTO GEAR (WITH SOME STRUGGLE), AND THEN RESTARTED THE CAR. I IMMEDIATELY TOOK THE CAR TO A SERVICE STATION. I WAS EXCEPTIONALLY LUCKY THAT I WAS ABLE TO PERFORM THE EMERGENCY EXIT FROM TRAFFIC WITHOUT GETTING INTO A CRASH. SOME ADDITIONAL NOTES ON ISSUE. FIRST, THE CAR HAD UNDERGONE REGULARLY SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE LESS THAN 2 MONTHS PRIOR. THAT MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE INCLUDES AN INSPECTION OF THE VEHICLES TRANSMISSION. THE AUTHORIZED SUBARU DEALERSHIP THAT PERFORMED THE MAINTENANCE REPORTED NO PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION. SECOND, THE VEHICLE IS PRIMARILY USED AS A HIGHWAY COMMUTER. IT HAS NOT BEEN USED FOR ANY MOTORSPORT, TRACK RACING, EXTREME DRIVING. THIRD, FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH ' I KNOW HOW TO DRIVE A MANUAL TRANSMISSION CAR. THIS IS MY 6TH MANUAL TRANSMISSION CAR IN 15 YEARS AND THIS IS MY FIRST-EVER CLUTCH ISSUE. FOR A VEHICLE TO FAIL IN SUCH A SPECTACULAR FASHION WITH NO WARNING SO SOON AFTER REGULAR MAINTENANCE AND AT SUCH LOW MILEAGE IS, IN MY OPINION, A SERIOUS HAZARD.

THERE IS A CLUNKING NOISE COMING FROM THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN MOVING LEFT TO RIGHT WHILE THE CAR IS STOP. IT ALSO MAKES A CLUNK NOISE WHILE GOING OVER SMALL BUMPS. THE DEALER REPLACED THE STRUTS, BUT THE PROBLEM CONTINUES. I'M AFRAID THE STEERING WHEEL GETS LOOSE WHILE DRIVING AND GOD FORBID WHAT COULD HAPPEN. *TR

THE BLUETOOTH SYSTEM HAS A DEFECT. THE FIRST TIME A PHONE IS CONNECTED, THE CONNECTION WORKS. IF THAT PHONE IS DELETED FROM THE SUBARU'S SYSTEM, AN ATTEMPT TO RECONNECT FAILS. I HAVE TRIED THIS WITH AN IPHONE 5, IPHONE 6, AND BLACKBERRY. THE SERVICE REP AT THE DEALER ALSO CONFIRMS THE RE-CONNECT PROBLEM. THIS MEANS THAT HANDS-FREE CALLING IS IMPOSSIBLE, CREATING A POTENTIAL SAFETY HAZZARD FOR DRIVERS WHO INSIST ON USING THE PHONE EVEN WHEN THE BLUETOOTH FUNCTION IS NOT AVAILABLE. SUBARU, TO WHOM I HAVE REPORTED THE PROBLEM, CLAIMS IT IS A DEFECT WITH THE PHONES, EVEN THOUGH THE DEALER AND I HAVE REPLICATED THE PROBLEM WITH NO LESS THAN 4 DIFFERENT PHONES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU WRX. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 60 MPH, THE SUN ROOF EXPLODED FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,200. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 (NA) SUBARU WRX. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN RESET P CODES 1449, 1604, AND THE ENGINE LIGHT. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOW UP TO SUBARU STANDARDS; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,833.

I WAS DRIVING MY 2016 SUBARU WRX DOWN A MAIN ROAD AT ABOUT 11PM. I WAS IN 3RD GEAR GOING 30MPH DRIVING STRAIGHT WHEN THE CAR SUDDENLY CAME TO A GRINDING HALT. I DID NOT APPLY THE BRAKES AND SINCE I WAS ALREADY MOVING FORWARD IN 3RD, THE CLUTCH WAS NOT PRESSED. THE ENGINE WAS STILL ON ONCE THE CAR STOPPED AS IF NOTHING HAD HAPPENED AT ALL, AND THE CAR STOPPED STILL CENTERED IN THE LANE AND FACING THE CORRECT DIRECTION 1/4-1/2 A BLOCK FROM WHEN IT STOPPED ITSELF WHILE I WAS STILL DRIVING IT. I HAVE NO IDEA IF THE BRAKE LIGHTS EVEN CAME TO POTENTIALLY WARN OTHER CARS THAT IT WAS SUDDENLY STOPPING. I PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, TURNED OFF THE CAR COMPLETELY AND THEN RESTARTED IT AND DROVE STRAIGHT HOME. LESS THAN 24 HOURS LATER, THE SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN ON A DIFFERENT ROAD AROUND 5:30PM. I WAS DRIVING IN 2ND HEAR GOING ABOUT 12 OR 13MPH IN TRAFFIC WHEN THE CAR SUDDENLY STOPPED WITHOUT ANY SPEED CHANGES OR PEDAL MOVEMENTS. AGAIN, THE CAR STOPPED CENTERED IN THE LANE WITH THE ENGINE STILL ON AND NO INDICATION THAT ANYTHING HAD HAPPENED AT ALL. I PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND RESTARTED THE CAR.

IN MY 2016 SUBARU WRX I HAVE HAD THE CONSISTENT PROBLEM OF GETTING IT FROM NEUTRAL INTO 1ST GEAR. IT IS EITHER EXTREMELY DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO GET THE CAR INTO FIRST FROM A (I.E. TRAFFIC LIGHT) STOP. IT FEELS LIKE THERE IS SOMETHING BLOCKING THE SLOT FOR THE GEAR- SOMETIMES THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT INTO 1ST IS TO COMPLETELY RESTART THE CAR. IF I DRIVE 30 MILES IN A DAY AROUND TOWN ON THE STREET, THIS 1ST GEAR STICKING ISSUE HAPPENS 6/10 TRAFFIC LIGHTS. I TOOK THE CAR INTO A SUBARU DEALERSHIP SHOP BUT THEY COULDN'T REPLICATE THE ISSUE DURING A TECHNICIAN TEST DRIVE.

I STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE CLUTCH/TRANSMISSION IN MY 2016 WRX AT 580 MILES. I WAS EXITING A HIGHWAY AND PULLED THE TRANSMISSION OUT OF 6TH. AS I WAS ABOUT TO SHIFT INTO 3RD TO GO THROUGH THE INTERSECTION I WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO ANY GEAR (STUCK IN NEUTRAL) WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL FULLY DEPRESSED. I HAD TO PULL OVER TURN THE CAR OFF AND RESTART IT BEFORE I COULD GET THE TRANSMISSION INTO GEAR. THE PROBLEM OCCURRED AGAIN AT APPROXIMATELY 3500 MILES. THIS TIME I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY SHIFTING FROM 5TH INTO 6TH. I PRESSED THE CLUTCH PULLED THE TRANSMISSION OUT OF 5TH AND COULD NOT GET IT INTO 6TH OR ANY GEAR. I PULLED ONTO THE SHOULDER AND STILL COULD NOT GET THE CAR INTO ANY GEAR. I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND WENT BACK TO RESTART, WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, WHEN I LET UP OFF THE CLUTCH THE CAR STALLED. I PUT THE TRANSMISSION INTO 1ST, PRESSED THE CLUTCH AND STARTED THE CAR. WHEN THE CAR STARTED THIS TIME IT LUNGED FORWARD. I WAS ABLE TO GET BACK ON THE HIGHWAY. I IMMEDIATELY TOOK THE CAR TO THE LOCAL SUBARU DEALER. THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND SAID THERE WAS NOTHING ELSE THE CAN DO UNTIL THE ARE ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. SINCE THE SECOND OCCURRENCE I STARTED NOTICING A STRONG BURNT SMELL AT LOW SPEED (SHIFTING 1ST TO 2ND) AND AT CRUISING HIGHWAY SPEEDS IN 6TH GEAR. ABOUT 1000 MILES LATER IT HAPPENED AGAIN THIS TIME NOT ONLY COULD I NOT SHIFT INTO ANY GEAR I COULD NOT GET THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO COME UP ALL THE WAY, THIS OCCURRED AT 35MPH. I HAD TO PRESS THE CLUTCH SEVERAL TIMES IN ORDER TO GET IT TO COME UP FULLY, THEN I WAS ABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE INTO GEAR. THE BURNING SMELL WAS PRESENT WHEN THIS HAPPENED. I TOOK THE VEHICLE INTO THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED THE CAR FROM. THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. THEY ALSO CLAIM THEY CAN'T WORK ON THE CAR UNTIL THEY CAN DUPLICATE THE ISSUE.