2008 BMW 3 Series Complaint Log

DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN BECAUSE IT REMAINED LOCKED. IT COULD NOT BE UNLOCKED USING THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE, THE KEY FOB UNLOCK BUTTON, OR THE DOOR LOCK SWITCH ON THE FRONT DASH. I HAD TO PHYSICALLY INSERT AND TURN THE KEY FROM THE OUTSIDE TO UNLOCK THE CAR. I UNDERSTAND THIS MAY BE A FUSE OR A DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR PROBLEM. IT IS AN ENORMOUS SAFETY ISSUE IF I CANNOT GET OUT OF MY CAR BECAUSE OF AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 335I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE DRIVER'S SIDE SEAT BELT FAILED TO TIGHTEN AND PROPERLY SECURE THE CONTACT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS WHERE IT WAS STATED THAT THE SEAT BELT COMPONENT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPLACED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,000. *TR

WHEN PUTTING ON MY SEAT BELT, THE BELT LOCKED WHEN PULLED OUT OF THE RETRACTOR. THE BELT WOULD NOT PULL OUT FAR ENOUGH TO FASTEN THE SEAT BELT. IT TOOK ABOUT 100 TRIES OF REELING THE BELT IN AND THEN GENTLY PULLING IT OUT TO GET THE SEAT BELT FASTENED. THE BMW DEALER SAYS THE UPPER BELT REEL AND THE COUPLER MECHANISM NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 335XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 50 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A LOCAL MECHANIC. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE COMPUTER WAS RESET AND THE SPARK PLUGS AND WATER PUMP WERE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000. *TR

WHILE DRIVING, ATTEMPTING TO PASS A VEHICLE, I PRESS THE ACCELERATOR AND THE PEDAL HAD NO RESPONSE AND THE RPMS DROPPED. AFTER TRYING TO ACCELERATE, THE ENGINE DIES AND I DRIFT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD ATTEMPTING TO DODGE TRAFFIC AS THE CAR'S GAS PEDAL IS NOT RESPONDING. UPON PULLING OVER SAFELY, NEARLY HITTING CARS ALONG THE WAY I COME TO STOP ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CAR THEN NO LONGER STARTS. CRANKING CAN BE HEARD BUT ENGINE DOES NOT TURN OVER OR START. HAD IT REPAIRED, THE REASON IS A FUEL PUMP FAILURE, FUEL PUMP MODULE FAILURE, AND BLOWN FUSE ON FUEL PUMP. CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND COST TO REPAIR IS $1,800 AND A RISK TO MY SAFETY. *TR

NOTICED A LOUD RAPID NOISE FROM RIGHT FRONT TIRE AREA WHEN TAKING A LEFT CAR WAS FINE INFACT DAYS BEFORE WAS IN THE DEALER FOR A RECALL BUT DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY THAT DAY, WE DID HIT A HARD SPOT FROM GROOVED PAVEMENT TO SMOOTH, OTHER THAN THAT NO INCIDENT OR ACCIDENT TO CAUSE THE SUDDEN NOISE. TOOL CAR TO DEALER AND WAS TOLD FRONT ENGINE MOUNT AND BOLTS WERE SHREDDED. CHARGED ALMOST $700 TO REPLACE AND REALIGN TIRES. WAS TOLD NO WARRANTY COVERS IT AND NO EXPLANATION OF HOW IT COULD HAVE HAPPENED. IM SEEING ALOT OF SIMILAR COMPLAINTS, HOPING SOMEONE TAKES NOTICE AND OFFERS ASSISTANCE WITH A RECALL . *TR

I HAD TO REPLACE TWO TIRE, ONE FRONT AND ONE REAR, FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM WAS THAT BOTH TIRES HAD SIDEWALL SEPARATION IN THE SAME LOCATION, WHERE THE SIDEWALL ATTACHES TO THE TIRE BEAD. *TR

TRAVELING AT APPROXIMATELY 60 MPH WHEN A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD. CAR INITIALLY APPEARED TO RUN CORRECTLY, HOWEVER, A LOUD THUMPING SOUND (SIMILIAR TO A FLAT TIRE) WAS HEARD WHEN TURNING. HARD BRAKING RESULTED IN VIBRATION. *TR UPON INSPECTION BY THE DEALER, THE RIGHT SIDE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS WERE FOUND TO BE BROKEN. SITUATION APPEARS SIMILIAR TO NHTSA ID# 10435750

DASHBOARD WARNING INDICATOR SHOWS THAT STABILITY CONTROL IS NOT FUNCTIONING. *TR

MY CAR SUDDENLY STOPPED, ENGINE TURNED OFF, STARTED THE CAR AGAIN AND IT WORK. CAME BACK AFTER DROPPING THE KIDS AND AFTER THE CAR IN PARK, REMOVED THE KEY AND FAN WAS ON. TRIED STARTING THE CAR AND WHITE SMOKE STARTED COMING OUT OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT. NOW THE BATTERY DRAIN, CAR WONT START, THE DASHBOARD FLICKERS. CALLED BMW AND TOLD THEM AND SAID THE SYMPTOMS POINT TO RECALL ISSUE, NO RESPONSE. *TR

I TOOK MY 2008 BMW 328I 51K MILES TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR A ROUGH IDLE/VIBRATION PROBLEM WHEN CAR IS STOPPED WITH BRAKE APPLIED. I WAS TOLD THAT THE VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND HAS TWO BROKEN MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS ON THE RIGHT PASSENGER SIDE OF VEHICLE. THESE BROKEN BOLTS CAUSED THE ENGINE TO DROP WHICH CAUSED ADDITION DAMAGE TO ENGINE. I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER AND SOLE DRIVER OF THIS VEHICLE AND IT HAS NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT OR EXPERIENCED ANY HAZARDOUS ROAD CONDITIONS. I GOOGLED "BMW BROKEN MOTOR MOUNT BOLT" AND FOUND DOZENS OF FORUMS AND COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE HAPPENING TO 2008, 2007 AND OTHER MODEL YEAR. THESE COMPLAINTS WERE FROM 328XI AND I OWNERS AS WELL AS MANY OTHER MODEL NUMBERS AROUND THE 2008 MODEL YEAR. I READ THAT BMW IS THE ONLY AUTO MAKER THAT USES ALUMINUM RATHER THAN STEEL BOLTS AND COULD NOT FIND ANY RECALL INFORMATION ABOUT THIS ISSUE. THE COMPLAINTS I READ MENTIONED THAT BMW OF NORTH AMERICA DID NOTHING ABOUT THIS ISSUE. I WILL BE CONTACTING THEM ONCE THE REPAIRS ON MY CAR ARE COMPLETE. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE AND SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE SOMEONE IS INJURED OR KILLED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 335XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO HESITATE AND STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE FUEL INJECTORS AND SPARK PLUGS WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 76,400.

AS I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK ONE EVENING, MY 2008 BMW 328I COUPE BEGAN ACTING STRANGE. THE INTERIOR OVERHEAD LIGHTS AS WELL AS MOST ALL OF THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS (RADIO, HAZARD BUTTON, ON-BOARD COMPUTER ETC.) BEGAN TO FLICKER ACCOMPANIED BY A TICKING NOISE IN SEQUENCE WITH THE FLICKERING. THE VEHICLE WAS ACTING AS THOUGH IT WAS ABOUT TO SHUT DOWN; THAT'S WHEN I DECIDED TO PULL OVER. AS I PULLED OFF OF THE ROAD, THE STEERING BECAME MORE DIFFICULT AND THE FLICKERING BECAME MORE FREQUENT. WHILE COMING TO A STOP (TRAVELING AT ABOUT 10MPH), THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. I LOST COMPLETE CONTROL OF VITAL MECHANISMS SUCH AS STEERING, POWER, LIGHTING (BOTH INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR). THE BRAKE PEDAL FELT UNUSUALLY FIRM/STIFF (NOT SPONGY OR SOFT AS IT SHOULD FEEL). AT THIS POINT, THE VEHICLE HAD COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN WITH THE GEAR SELECTOR STILL IN "DRIVE". I ATTEMPTED TO RE-START THE VEHICLE BUT IT FAILED TO START. I HAD MY VEHICLE TOWED BACK TO MY APARTMENT AND THE FOLLOWING DAY, I TOOK IT TO A REPUTABLE, INDEPENDENT BMW MECHANIC. HIS DIAGNOSIS WAS THAT SOMETHING RELATED TO THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY, POWER SUPPLY SYSTEM/ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CIRCUITRY WAS FAULTY--WHICH IN TURN, KILLED THE STARTER. HE REPLACED THE BATTERY WITH A NEW OEM BATTERY AS WELL AS REPLACED THE STARTER WITH AN NEW OEM STARTER AND THE RELATED WIRING/CIRCUITRY. A FEW WEEKS LATER, I RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE IN THE MAIL-- MARCH 2013 RECALL NO. 13V-044 : POWER SUPPLY SYSTEM. BECAUSE THE SYMPTOMS NOTED IN THE RECALL LETTER MATCH THOSE I EXPERIENCED IDENTICALLY, I AM SEEKING REIMBURSEMENT FOR THE COST OF REPAIR THAT CORRELATES TO THIS ISSUE. HOWEVER, BMW STATES IT WILL ONLY REIMBURSE THE COST OF REPAIR PERTAINING TO THE SINGLE PART AT FAULT/RECALLED. THE CAUSE OF THIS RECALL IS KNOWN, BUT THEY ARE FAILING TO REIMBURSE CUSTOMERS FOR THE DAMAGING EFFECTS THAT THE FAULTY/RECALLED PART MAY HAVE HAD ON OTHER COMPONENTS. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AT APPROXIMATELY 75 MILES/HR, THE ENGINE SUDDENLY DROPPED DOWN SPEED DRASTICALLY (FELT LIKE SOMEONE DOWN SHIFTED THE CAR) AND STARTED TO SHAKE AND RUMBLE. TRY TO STEP ON THE GAS, BUT THE CAR WON'T RESPOND IN SPEEDING CAR; TRY TO STEP ON THE BREAK, THE CAR WON'T STOP EITHER. COMPLETELY LOST CONTROL OF THE CAR FOR ABOUT 5 SECONDS. THEN, THE CAR SUDDENLY SHIFTED BACK IT IT'S NORMAL GEAR AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE NORMALLY. READ THE TEMPERATURE OF THE ENGINE OIL, THE TEMPERATURE WAS ON "0". THIS IS THE 2ND INCIDENT. *TR

AFFECTED STEERING, FAILING FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHING.

THIS IS THE 1ST INCIDENT. DRIVING LIKE USUAL, UP A HILL AT APPROXIMATELY 45 MILES PER HOUR THEN LET GO OF GAS AND BRAKE TO LET THE CAR GO DOWN THE HILL ITSELF. SUDDENLY, THE CAR SOUNDED LIKE IT HAS SHIFTED AND AT THE SAME TIME SPEED UP BY ITSELF. THOUGHT I SWITCHED TO MANUAL DRIVE, SO TRY TO SWITCH BACK, BUT NO SWITCHES WAS MAD. TRY TO STEP ON THE BRAKE, THE CAR WOULD NOT STOP. SO, TRY TO SWITCH FROM AUTO TO MANUAL DRIVE, CAR STILL HAS NO REACTION. STEP ON THE BRAKE FORCEFULLY TO HAVE THE CAR STOP. THANK GOODNESS THIS WAS LATE AT NIGHT SO NO CAR WAS BEHIND OR IN FRONT OF ME. *TR

VEHICLE IS NOT ALLOWED RECALL SINCE VIN# DOES NOT APPLY HOWEVER ALL THINGS WRONG WITH VEHICLE ARE EXACTLY WHAT CAN BE FOUND UNDER RECALLS: NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBERS 12E029000,09V257000, 09V257000. BMW FAIRFAX AND BMW NORTH AMERICA STATE RECALL CANNOT BE PROCESSED BECAUSE MY VIN DOES NOT APPLY. IT IS BOTHERSOME TO KNOW THAT I AM EXPERIENCING ONLY THESE 3 PROBLEMS THAT SO HAPPEN TO BE THE ONLY ERRORS AND ALL 3 ARE ON THE RECALL LIST FOR MY MAKE, MODEL, AND YEAR. PERHAPS IF MORE VEHICLES WITH MY PART NUMBERS COME FORWARD THEN MAYBE BMW CAN OWN UP AND ACTUALLY HELP CURRENT BMW OWNERS WITH THESE MALFUNCTIONS INSTEAD OF FORCING CUSTOMERS TO PAY OUT OF POCKET ON KNOWN BMW RECALLS AND MALFUNCTIONS. THE ERRORS ARE ENGING AND ENGING COOLING: COOLING SYSTEM: FAN, SEAT BELTS: FRONT, AND AIR BAGS:FRONTAL. IF YOU ARE HAVING ISSUES WITH BMW AND THEM NOT BUDGING ON YOUR MALFUNCTIONS THAT HIT THE RECALLS PLEASE STEP FORWARD BECAUSE BMW NEEDS TO CORRECT THEIR MALFUNCTIONS AND NOT LET US PAY OUT OF POCKET ON SOMETHING PUT TOGETHER IMPROPERLY. *TR

ABS UNIT FAILED, ALL WARNING LIGHTS ON. PER MECH. COMMON PROB, BMW EVEN SELLS REPAIR KIT SO COMMON. VERY EXPENSIVE FIX, I AM SURE PEOPLE DRIVING WITHOUT ABS/TRACTION CONTROL. VERY UNSAFE BMW FROM 2006-2009. *TR

THERE IS A CRACK IN THE RIM WHICH IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THIS FINE CRACK CAUSES LOSS OF AIR PRESSURE IN THE TIRE. THE TIRE ITSELF IS INTACT AND UNDAMAGED AS IS THE RIM. BOTH TIRE AND RIM ARE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND WERE ON THE VEHICLE AT THE TIME OF DELIVERY IN DEC. 2008. THE VEHICLE HAS NEVER BEEN INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT OR STRUCK ANY OBJECT WHICH COULD HAVE CAUSED THIS DEFECT. SINCE THE MANUFACTURING DEFECT CAUSES LOSS OF AIR PRESSURE IN THE TIRE, THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. THE CRACK IN RIM WAS DIAGNOSED AFTER TWO VISITS BY DISCOUNT TIRE ON CERRILLOS ROAD IN SANTA FE, NM. [XXX] AT BMW N.A. SUGGESTED I CONTACT THE DEALER TO FIND OUT WHO MANUFACTURED THE RIM AND THEN DEAL WITH THE RIM MANUFACTURER. HE SAYS THAT BMW ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR RIMS AND THAT RIMS ARE NOT COVERED BY THE VEHICLE WARRANTY. [XXX]. SAID HE COULD NOT TELL ME WHO MANUFACTURED THE RIM. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

MY NAME IS ? AND I'M HAVING A SERIOUS PROBLEM GETTING MY CAR FIXED BY THE BMW DEALERSHIP SPECIFICALLY THE ONE LOCATED AT EDISON, NJ. I'VE ALSO EXPERIENCED THE BRAKES NOT WORKING (2) WHEN THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN IN BAD WEATHER, I.E. SNOW AND RAIN. BACK IN APRIL (4/11/2013) BMW CORPORATION A LETTER STATING THAT IF THE ABOVE PROBLEM AND OTHER PROBLEMS MENTIONED IN THERE LETTER WAS EVIDENT, I NEEDED TO STOP DRIVING IMMEDIATELY AND HAVE THE CAR SERVICED, WHICH I DID. WELL THE PROBLEM SUBSIDED FOR ABOUT A MONTH THEN STARTED UP AGAIN (THE PROBLEM IS MY CAR'S DASH BOARD WHILE DRIVING WILL GO COMPLETELY OR AS YOU'LL SEE IN THE ATTACHMENT PARTIALLY BLANK ON ME WHILE I'M DRIVING. WHEN IT GOES COMPLETELY BLANK THE CAR SHUTTERS AS IF IT WANTS TO TURN OFF). I WASN'T ABLE TO MAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP UNTIL AROUND 6/10/2013 TO COMPLAIN THAT THE ISSUE WAS STILL HAPPENING. ON OR AROUND THE 6/10/2013 DATE THIS SAME TECH RAN A DIAGNOSTIC ON MY CAR (WHICH I HAVE THE COPY OF). TO MAKE A VERY LONG STORY SHORT I RETURNED TO THE EDISON LOCATION TODAY 7/17/2013 AND TEXT THE SAME ATTACHMENT TO [XXX] MEMBERS OF THE BMW MANAGEMENT/SERVICE TEAM, TO MY AMAZEMENT I WAS TOLD THEY COULDN'T FIND A PROBLEM, EVEN THOUGH MANAGEMENT AGREED THAT VIA THE PICTURE THEIR WAS A PROBLEM. AT THIS POINT WHAT WILL IT TAKE TO FIND THE PROBLEM LISTED IN THE ABOVE ATTACHMENT? DEATH!!!!!!!...... THERE IS A BRAKE AND ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITH MY CAR. JUST IN CASE ANYONE WANTS TO MAKE THE ASSUMPTION THAT IN SOME WAY I'M TRYING TO GET OVER, PLEASE REVIEW MY PAYMENT HISTORY, I PAY FOR MY CAR IN ADVANCE. THIS IS RIDICULOUS!!!! I'M FEARFUL TO DRIVE IN BAD WEATHER, AND I'M FEARFUL THAT IN THE MIST OF GETTING DRIVING DIRECTION FROM MY CAR'S GPS IT'S GOING TO BLACK OUT ON ME, LEAVING ME IN THE MIDDLE OF NOW-WHERE. THANK GOD THE TIMES IT HAS BLANKED OUT, I'VE BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE OUT WHERE TO GO. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

THIS INCIDENT HAS HAPPENED BEFORE WHILE MY CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. THERE WAS A RECALL ON THIS ISSUE,. HOWEVER, I ONLY COME TO KNOW ABOUT THE RECALL WHEN THE PROBLEM EXISTED. I WOULD CHECK WITH YOUR SERVICE ADVISER BECAUSE BMW SEEMS TO BE HIDING THIS ISSUE! THIS IS THE 1ST INCIDENT AFTER BRINGING IN MY CAR FOR SIMILAR ISSUE AND 2ND TIME HAPPENING TO MY CAR. DRIVING DOWN THE STREET AT ABOUT 15 MILES/HR AND STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. THE CAR STARTED SHAKING WHEN I PRESSED ON THE GAS AND WOULDN'T MOVE FORWARD SMOOTHLY; FELT LIKE A CAR BREAKING DOWN. DRIVE ABOUT 1 BLOCK DOWN (TO THE NEXT LIGHT), THE CAR IS STILL SHAKING AND CAN'T DOESN'T MOVE. THE CAR CONTINUE TO SHAKE VICIOUSLY AS I WAS PARKED AT A RED LIGHT, SO I DECIDED TO TURN AWAY FROM MAIN STREET TO STOP. THE CAR DIDN'T REALLY MOVE, JUST GLIDED. STOPPED THE CAR COMPLETELY AND RESTARTED IT. AFTER RESTARTING THE CAR, THE CAR WAS BACK TO NORMAL. *TR

TL-THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE ENGINE STALLED WITH THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATING INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE RESTARTED AFTER A FEW MOMENTS AND RESUMED NORMALLY HOWEVER, THE AIR CONDITIONER, HEADLIGHTS AND THE RADIO WERE INOPERABLE. IN ADDITION, A BURNING ODOR EMITTED INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE FROM THE MELTED WIRES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS WHERE THE BATTERY AND STARTER WERE REPLACED. ADDITIONALLY, THE BATTERY CABLE AND FUSE BOX WERE REPLACE ON A SEPARATE OCCASION BY THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000. KMJ

THE DOORS WILL NOT UNLOCK. THE LIGHTS FLASH ON THE OUTSIDE BUT EVEN WHEN PUSHING THE UNLOCK BUTTON FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR THE DOORS STAY LOCKED. I'M BEING TOLD IT IS A FUSE, BUT LITERALLY NONE OF THE DOORS WILL LOCK OR UNLOCK. THE ONLY WAY I WAS ABLE TO EXIT MY CAR WAS BY CRAWLING OUT OF MY WINDOW. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE POWER DOOR LOCKS FAILED ON ALL OF THE DOORS. THE CONTACT STATED THE FAILURE PREVENTED THE DOORS FROM BEING OPEN MANUALLY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IF YOU WAS INSIDE THE VEHICLE YOU HAD TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW AND USE THE KEY ON THE OUTSIDE TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ONLY DOOR THAT COULD BE UNLOCKED IN THIS SITUATION WAS THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR, ANY ONE ELSE IN THE VEHICLE HAS TO CLIMB OVER TO THE DRIVER SEAT TO EXIT. THE CONTACT FELT THIS WAS A SAFETY HAZARD FOR THE ELDERLY AND PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE DOOR ACTUATORS FAILED AND VERIFIED THAT THE DRIVERS DOOR WAS THE ONLY ONE THAT WOULD OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 31,000. UPDATED 12/06/12*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED ONLY THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR WITH THE USE OF THE KEY WORKED. UPDATED 12/06/12

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIAN ADVISED THAT THE BATTERY CABLE FAILED AND WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,400.

ONE OF THE ELECTRIC DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS FAILED AND CAUSED A FUSE TO BLOW. WHEN THIS OCCURRED THE DRIVER DOOR COULD ONLY BE UNLOCKED WITH THE METAL KEY AND NOT BY THE ELECTRONIC LOCK REMOTE. WHAT WAS SO DANGEROUS IS THAT NONE OF THE OTHER 3 PASSENGER DOORS COULD BE OPENED EITHER FROM OUTSIDE OR EVEN FROM THE INSIDE WITH THE DOOR HANDLE. ESSENTIALLY ALL THE PASSENGERS WERE TRAPPED IN THE CAR AND HAD TO CLIMB OUT THROUGH THE DRIVER DOOR WHICH COULD BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE WITH THE DOOR HANDLE. HAD THERE BEEN AN ACCIDENT OR FIRE OR OTHER EMERGENCY IT COULD HAVE TAKEN TOO LONG TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. THE 3 PASSENGER DOORS DID NOT BEGIN WORKING UNTIL THE FUSE AND DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR WAS REPLACED AT A COST OF NEARLY $700. BMW IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM. SI B51 19 07 FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN. *TR

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: I AM WRITING THIS LETTER IN EFFORT TO MAKE A FORMAL COMPLAINT REGARDING A KNOWN SAFETY ISSUE OCCURRING ON CERTAIN BMW VEHICLES. ON FRIDAY, AUGUST 31ST, I HAD TAKEN MY CAR (2008, 335I) TO THE DEALER FOR AN OIL CHANGE. WHILE LEAVING THE DEALERSHIP, I NOTICED ALL MY SETTINGS WERE LOST. LATER, WITHIN THE HOUR, I NOTICED THAT I COULD NO LONGER UNLOCK THE DOORS WITH THE REMOTE DOOR OPENER OR FROM WITHIN THE VEHICLE. I COULD ONLY ENTER AND EXIT (VIA THE DRIVER DOOR) USING THE MANUAL KEY. IN ATTEMPTING TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, I HAD REVIEWED NUMEROUS SITES/BLOGS AND DISCOVERED THIS IS KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE ACTUATOR CAUSING A FUSE TO CONTINUE TO BLOW. I HAD TAKEN MY CAR BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP ON TUESDAY (9/4). THEY WERE TOO BUSY TO SCHEDULE ME THE NEXT DAY. ON TUESDAY, THE DEALERSHIP CONFIRMED THE PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR (AS MANY HAVE REPORTED). THE DEALERSHIP ALSO CONFIRMED THERE HAVE BEEN A LOT OF COMPLAINTS. I AM VERY SURPRISED THERE HAS NOT BEEN A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM. THIS DEFECT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. INCASE OF AN ACCIDENT, WATER HAZARD AND/OR FIRE, ONLY THE DRIVER IS ABLE TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. ALL OTHER PASSENGERS WOULD HAVE TO CLIMB OVER THE SEATS TO EXIT OUT THE DRIVER DOOR. IN CASE OF A FIRE, THIS IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM. *TR

DOOR LOCKS WOULDN'T OPEN OR CLOSE. INSIDE UNLOCK CAPABILITIES NOT WORKING EITHER. ONLY ACCESS IN OR OUT IS THROUGH THE KEYED ENTRY. CANNOT EVEN OPEN THE OTHER THREE DOORS. *TR

I HAVE HAD MY CAR IN AT LEAST THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS FOR MY 2008 BMW 328XI E90 SEDAN LOSING ALL POWER RANDOMLY! THE LATEST INCIDENT, IN THE FIRST WEEKS OF AUGUST, ALMOST GOT ME KILLED! A TRANSPORTATION BUS STOPPED SUDDENLY IN FRONT OF ME ON A 3 LANE HIGHWAY AND I WENT INTO THE MIDDLE LANE TO PASS THE BUS. I HAD SLOWED FROM THE SPEED LIMIT OF 55 DOWN TO ABOUT 30 MILES AN HOUR, SWITCHED LANES AND THEN PUNCHED THE GAS IN ORDER TO RESUME SPEED OF THE REST OF TRAFFIC. THE CAR STALLED WITH NO POWER WHATSOEVER FOR ABOUT THREE SECONDS. AN 18 WHEEL TRUCK CAME WITHIN 50 FEET OF ME OR SO AND ALMOST KILLED ME, THEN THE CAR SUDDENLY REGAINED ALL POWER AND I WAS ABLE TO AVERT THE COLLISION! IT IS SO FRUSTRATING THAT THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE OTHER OWNERS OUT THERE THAT HAVE REPORTED THIS ISSUE ONLINE AND BMW HAS DONE NOTHING TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. THERE ARE NO CODES, NO LIGHTS, NOTHING. I JUST HAD MY CAR IN THE DEALER FOR TWO WEEKS AND THEY RAN FUEL PRESSURE TESTS, DROVE THE CAR, ETC. THE CAR STALLED ONCE ON THEM, BUT THEN THEY COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AGAIN. I READ ON WWW.E90POST.COM SOME OTHERS HAD THE LEARNING COMPUTER IN THE TRANSMISSION RESET TO ATTEMPT TO RESOLVE THIS PROBLEM. SEEMS THE COMPUTER GETS CONFUSED ON DRIVING HABITS OF OWNER AND FORGETS WHAT GEAR TO BE IN WHEN DRIVING, SO IT STALLS. I HAD DEALER RESET COMPUTER TO ZERO SO IT RELEARNS MY DRIVING HABITS AND I WILL SEE IF THIS FIXES THE PROBLEM. I WILL SAY, THE HESITATION ISSUE DOES SEEM TO BE A TRANSMISSION ISSUE TO MY OBSERVATIONS. SEEM LIKE TRANNY IS FIGURING OUT WHAT GEAR TO BE IN. I THINK THERE IS A GLITCH IN THE SW/TRANNY WHERE THE ECU GETS CONFUSED AND DOES NOT KNOW WHAT GEAR TO PUT THE CAR INTO, THEN IT HESITATES UNTIL THE ALGORITHM FIGURES OUT WHAT TO DO. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THIS 2-3 SECOND LOSS OF POWER, WHEN PASSING, GETTING ONTO A HIGHWAY OR PULLING IN FRONT OF TRAFFIC CAN KILL YOU! *TR

PASSENGER SEAT OCCUPANCY MAT SENSOR BROKEN. PROBLEM STARTED, 5 YEARS AGO. THIS SEEMS TO BE A WELL DOCUMENTED PROBLEM AFFECTING MANY DIFFERENT BMW MODELS/YEARS. BMW WILL NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE SITUATION. PLEASE HELP.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 328XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, SMOKE STARTED TO EMIT INTO VEHICLE. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT AN ELECTRICAL FIRE STARTED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS CONTACTED AND NO INJURIES WERE REPORTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE WHO DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 40,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 328XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, SMOKE EMERGED FROM THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AREA. THE CONTACT EXITED THE VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE IGNITED IN FLAMES. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A POLICE AND A FIRE REPORT FILED OF THE INCIDENT. THE CONTACT WAS NOT INJURED. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT DETERMINED THAT THE FIRE ORIGINATED FROM AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE INCIDENT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 38,000.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT ABOUT 70 MILES AN HOUR WHEN THE ENGINE JUST SUDDENLY STOPPED. WHILE THE CAR WAS SLOWING DOWN I HAVE TO PULL OVER AND RESTART THE CAR. THEN AFTER DRIVING FOR ANOTHER 10 MIN THE ENGINE STOPPED AGAIN THIS TIME I DIDN'T HAVE TIME TO PULL OVER AND STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF A HIGHWAY. I HAVE TO KEEP TRYING BEFORE IT RESTARTED. I STOPPED AT A GAS STATION AND WAS AFRAID TO DRIVE IT AGAIN. FINALLY WITHOUT A CHOICE AFTER AN HOUR I STARTED THE CAR BACK UP AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE BACK HOME. *TR

FOURTH INCIDENT - ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS INDICATE "MALFUNCTION PASSENGER RESTRAINT SYSTEM" IN ELEVEN MONTHS FOR SAME PROBLEM. SERVICE YET TO BE SCHEDULED WITH DEALER. I KNOW THERE WAS RECALL FOR SAME PROBLEM IN 2006 FOR BMW 3-SERIES. I THINK BMW IS INSTALLING FAULTY SEAT MATS. *TR

DRIVER EXITED CAR TO PUMP GAS. PASSENGERS REMAINED IN VEHICLE. GAS DOOR COULD NOT BE OPENED AS MAIN DOOR LOCK WAS ENGAGED (THOUGH DRIVERS DOOR WAS UNLOCKED). KEY FOB UNLOCK FUNCTION WOULD NOT WORK TO UNLOCK CAR / GAS CAP. DRIVER PUSHED KEY FOB BUTTONS TO ATTEMPT UNLOCK, DRIVERS DOOR BECAME LOCKED DURING THIS ACTIVITY. NOW NO DOORS COULD BE UNLOCKED. DUE TO FAILURE ALL DOORS EXPERIENCED "2 PULL" DOOR UNLOCK SYSTEM FAILURE, THIS "2 PULL" SYSTEM, THAT IS SUPPOSED TO ENSURE DOORS CAN BE OPENED FROM INSIDE IF LOCK IS ENGAGED APPARENTLY REQUIRE SAME POWER AS GENERAL LOCKING SYSTEM. DRIVER COULD ONLY ENTER CAR BY USING EMERGENCY KEY AND UNLOCKING DRIVER'S DOOR. PASSENGER AND REAR DOORS REMAINED LOCK (AND ARE STILL LOCKED / INOPERABLE DUE TO SYSTEM FAILURE). POWER FAILURE IN DOOR LOCK SYSTEM (OR OTHER ASSOCIATED FAULT) MADE DOOR OPERATION IMPOSSIBLE. ALL DOORS WERE COMPLETELY INOPERABLE FROM THE INSIDE. PASSENGERS COULD NOT EXIT VEHICLE AS DOORS WERE LOCKED AND HANDLES DID NOT WORK. DRIVER COULD NOT ENTER VEHICLE BY KEY FOB UNLOCK FUNCTION. DRIVERS DOOR EXPERIENCED INTERMITTENT OPERATION UNTIL SOME KIND OF MANUAL OVERRIDE, OR SOME OTHER SYSTEM CHANGE, MADE DRIVERS DOOR FUNCTIONAL BY "2 PULL" DOOR UNLOCK / OPEN METHOD. IF DRIVER HAD NOT BEEN PRESENT (IE: IN STORE PAYING FOR GAS OR FOR SOME OTHER REASON) PASSENGERS WOULD HAVE BEEN TRAPPED IN CAR. IF ANY PASSENGER HAD BEEN PHYSICALLY DISABLED AND UNABLE TO CRAWL OUT OF CAR VIA DRIVERS DOOR THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN NO WAY FOR PASSENGER TO EXIT CAR !!!!!. DOOR LOCK SYSTEM REMAINS INOPERABLE, PASSENGER AND REAR DOORS STILL LOCKED CLOSED WITH NO WAY TO OPEN THEM. *TR

WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMP SUDDENLY STOPPED FUNCTIONING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

THIRD INCIDENT - ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS INDICATE "MALFUNCTION PASSENGER RESTRAINT SYSTEM" DEALER CLAIMED THEY FIXED PROBLEM. *TR

SUDDEN FAILURE OF WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMP. OCCURRED WHILE I WAS DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND WASHER WAS UNDER CONSTANT USE DUE TO HEAVY RAIN AND ROAD CONDITIONS. *TR

PASSENGER SIDE FRONT DOOR WINDOW SHATTERED ON MY 2008 BMW 335XI WHILE THE CAR IS PARKED ON A HOT DAY AT AROUND 96 DEGREES OUTDOORS. THE GLASS IS COMPLETELY SHATTERED BUT HELD TOGETHER BY WINDOW TINT FILM. THERE IS NO EVIDENCE OF IMPACT WITH ANY OBJECT OF ANY KIND ON THE GLASS OR SURROUNDING AREA. THERE IS NO HOLES ON THE GLASS. THIS IS OBVIOUS A CASE OF DEFECTIVE MATERIAL OF THE GLASS. BMW DEALERSHIP DENIED WARRANTY COVERAGE, ALLEGING THERE IS A PIT ON THE GLASS THAT CAUSES THE BREAKAGE. IF WHAT THE DEALERSHIP ALLEGED IS TRUE THEN IS THE WINDOW SUPPOSED TO FAIL COMPLETELY LIKE THIS WITH ONE PIT THAT WAS NOT VISIBLE TO ME? OR IS THE PIT THE RESULT OF DEFECTIVE PRODUCTION OF THE GLASS? *TR

NOTICED THE WATER COOLANT LIGHT COME ON. AFTER TAKING IT TO BMW, THEY SAID THE WATER PUMP WAS LEAKING. WANTED TO REPLACE IT FOR A NICE PIECE OF CHANGE. POOR PART DESIGN. THEY SHOULD HAVE A RECALL ON THE PUMP. *TR

SECOND INCIDENT OF ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS INDICATE "MALFUNCTION PASSENGER RESTRAINT SYSTEM" DEALER CLAIMED THEY FIXED PROBLEM. *TR

I WAS TRAPPED IN THE CAR. THE CARS LOCKS WOULD NOT UNLOCK USING THE UNLOCK BUTTON OR USING THE KEY FOB, NOR WOULD PULLING THE HANDLE UNLOCK OR OPEN THE DOOR. I CALLED BMW ASSIST AND THEY INDICATED THAT THEY HAD HEARD OF SEVERAL SIMILAR ISSUES AND THAT THE ONLY OPTION MAY BE CLIMBING OUT THE WINDOW. VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED AS A CPO FROM A BMW DEALERSHIP APPROXIMATELY 2 MONTHS PRIOR. *TT

VEHICLE LOST POWER WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY, APPEARS TO BE AN ENGINE MALFUNCTION. TOOK TO BMW DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP, HOWEVER PROBLEM STILL OCCURS. UNFORTUNATELY, THE WARRANTY HAS JUST EXPIRED SO I HAD TO PAY OUT OF POCKET. IT APPEARS MANY INDIVIDUALS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUES WITH THIS PARTICULAR YR, MAKE & MODEL SO UNSURE OF WHY BMW HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL TO ADDRESS THE PROBLEM. THIS ABSOLUTELY SHOULD BE LOOKED AT BY THE MANUFACTURER AS FROM MY EXPERIENCE WITH IT OCCURRING ON THE HIGHWAY IT CAN DEFINITELY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. *TR

IN MAY OF 2012, WITH THE VEHICLE DISPLAYING APPROXIMATELY 15, 228 MILES, THE WARNING LIGHT FOR THE ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEMS (ABS) BECAME ACTIVATED AND REMAINS TO THIS DAY. BMW DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT INSPECTED THE VEHICLE AND CONCLUDED A NEW ABS SYSTEM WAS NEEDED, AND RECOMMENDED I NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE IN ITS CURRENT CONDITION. HOWEVER, THEY WOULD NOT INCUR THE COST BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY.

TOOK VEHICLE IN FOR LOW PRESSURE ON RIGHT REAR TIRE. TIRES HAD BEEN MOUNTED APPROXIMATELY 3 MONTHS PRIOR, WHEN MECHANIC TOOK RIM OFF TO TEST FOR LEAK DISCOVERED THREE CRACKS IN RIM ALONG OUTSIDE OF INNER RIM. HAS ORIGINAL RIMS THAT CAME WITH CAR, BMW 10 SPOKE 17" ALLOY STYLE 159. TIRES MOUNTED ARE RUN FLAT AS THEY ARE REPLACEMENTS FOR ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 335I EQUIPPED WITH MICHELIN ENERGY LX4 RUN-FLAT TIRES, SIZE: P225/60R17. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TIRES EXHIBITED SMALL PUNCTURES AND WOULD BECOME FLAT FREQUENTLY. THE CONTACT WAS UNAWARE OF THE CAUSE OF THE CONSTANT TIRE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 BMW 335I. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THE CONTACT CRASHED INTO THE PROCEEDING VEHICLE. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED BRUISES TO THE FACE. THE VEHICLE WAS COMPLETELY DESTROYED AND TOWED TO A COLLISION CENTER. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED OF THE INCIDENT. THE AIR BAGS FILED TO DEPLOY DURING THE EXTENSIVE IMPACT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 51,284. UPDATED 05/31/12*LJ

PASSENGER SIDE SEAT OCCUPANCY MALFUNCTION.FAULTY SEAT OCCUPANCY DETECTOR MAT. WARNING LIGHT STAYS ON WHEN A PASSENGER SITS IN SEAT. LIGHT SAYS "PASSENGER AIR BAG OFF". THAT MEANS IT IS SET FOR A CHILD. *TR

WHEN TRAVELLING ON HARLEM RIVER DRIVE MIDDLE LANE, MY CAR ALL THE SUDDEN DISPLAYED AN ENGINE OVERHEAT LIGHT YELLOW THAT TURNED RED WITHIN 3 SECONDS AND STARTED LOSING POWER (FROM 50-60 MPH TO 1 MPH) WITHIN 5 SECONDS...THE CAR HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE NEAREST DEALERSHIP. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION, AS I DID NOT HAVE ENOUGH WARNING TIME TO PULL TO THE SHOULDER. THE DEALERSHIP IS STATING THAT THIS IS A WATER PUMP FAILURE. I AM AWARE THAT THERE ARE RECALLS ON X5S BUT NOT ON MY CAR. MY FRIEND WHO OWNS THE SAME CAR AND YEAR HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM RESULTING IN THE SAME COST OF REPAIR ($1600). MY VEHICLE ALREADY HAS MANY RECALLS INCLUDING SEAT BELTS, AIR BAGS, AND HIGH PRESSURED FUEL PUMPS. THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN TO A CAR THAT HAS BEEN MAINTAINED BY BMW AND JUST OUT OF WARRANTY (LESS THAN 60000 MILES). NOT EVEN 4 YEARS YET. I HAVE OWNED MANY BMWS AND OTHER CARS AND NEVER HAD A WATER PUMP FAILURE THAT CAUSED A DANGER OF THIS MAGNITUDE... I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU WOULD INVESTIGATE THE SITUATION TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING TO OTHER OWNERS. *TR

THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS FAILED ON MY CAR, THIS CAUSED THE REMOTE FOB AND ALSO INNER CENTRAL LOCKING BUTTON TO STOP WORKING, THE ONLY WAY TO GET OUT OF THE CAR WAS TO ROLL DOWN THE DRIVERS WINDOW AND TAKE THE KEY FOB APART TO REVEAL THE METAL KEY INSIDE, THIS COULD THEN BE USED FROM THE OUTSIDE TO OPEN THE DOOR BY PUTTING YOUR ARM OUT THE WINDOW HOWEVER ALL OTHER DOORS REMAIN LOCKED FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, THE OTHER DOORS DO NOT HAVE A KEYHOLE AND THE INNER DOOR HANDLES WERE DISCONNECTED AND WOULD NOT WORK. MY PASSENGERS THEN HAD TO CRAWL OVER THE FRONT SEATS TO ESCAPE THE CAR THRU THE DRIVERS DOOR AND IN AN ACCIDENT OR FIRE THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN STUCK. I THINK THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND FROM SEARCHING ONLINE I SEE IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON THIS MODEL. *TR