2014 Chevrolet Captiva Complaint Log

This car is a 2014 chevy captiva it has had multiple leaks that I have repaired on my own the engine gussles up gas like there's no tomorrow and then on hot days even though all liquids are filled will randomly have a check engine code and a reduced engine code amd service stabiltek system come on all at once. Now in this car I replaced the fuel pump, up and down 02 sensors the whole catalytic system front from to back and this issue still happens. Something is internally wrong with this car.and when the car decides to through these codes it makes a percolating sound like a pot of coffee is almost done brewing in the cabin of the car.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva Sport. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle experienced a loss of power steering assist. The vehicle then lost motive power. No warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was coasted to the side of the road. Upon inspection, there was white smoke coming from the engine, and there was no engine oil on the dipstick. The contact added oil to the engine. The contact stated that the vehicle previously had an oil change; however, the engine consumed an excessive amount of oil. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

I got into a car accident someone pulled in front of me and I hit them and my air bags didn’t go off

My car consistently burned through oil despite getting regular oil changes and checks. The oil burned through before I was aware and the car now needs a new engine that will cost more than it’s worth

Key gets stuck in the ignition. Turns off to ACC, but won’t turn back to LOCK. Cannot remove key.

Electrical system dies unexpectedly. Stabilitrac system alert lights up and car starts shifting like crazy. All warning lights flash and door locks and dome lights start flashing. This happens even when driving on the highway. Very dangerous and needs to be addressed immediately.

2014 Chevrolet Captiva on Friday July 8th 2022, The sun visor catch on fire from the passenger seat. The reasons still are unknown. The issue could be ending in a disaster and I have to claim this problem as fast as I can

Drive Belt Tensioner is broken, causing loud noise under the hood. The belt could be affected if not repaired and confirmed by Firestone Auto Care. Nothing else but Chevy GM will not fix the issue even though there is a specific service campaign bulletin in regards to the issue.

I was involved in a car accident that totaled my car and it was front damage my air bags did not come out. My car is with my insurance company. No messages or lamps etc had been on prior to the accident.

The key is stuck and will not release from my ignition. I have tried numerous ways to get the key out and it just won't come out. I have had to disconnect my battery so that it doesn't drain my battery, but the issue is still there. I can't use my car to go to work due to the fact my key won't come out. This has really put me in a bind and is unacceptable. I don't have the money to have this fixed and I would like for the manufacturer to help me out. This is a real safety issue. I have had my car looked at by a mechanic and he is unsure of exactly how to fix this.

The key intermediately gets stuck in the ignition and will not come out, have to wiggle and move steering wheel and move from park to drive then try repeated times to get the key out. This appears to be a common problem with 2014 captivas.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that occasionally while his wife was stopped for either a traffic sign or traffic light, the engine would make a grinding noise. The contact stated that the vehicle was consuming a lot of engine oil, requiring constant refilling every week. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact took the vehicle to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the timing chain replaced. The contact spoke with a dealer and asked if the VIN was under recall. The contact was informed that the VIN was not under recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 115,000.

My car suddenly started acting funny and was not running well while i was driving, when i got to a stop sign it totally died. It was towed to a shop and was totally out of oil, my car wasn't even 1500 miles over it's last oil change. The engine was totally ruined and needed to be replaced. THis again seems to be a common problem with these engines that they just go out using all the oil in the vehicle unexpectedly.

Key stuck in ignition causing anti theft lock which causes battery to die

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that while in the vehicle, she noticed smoke filling the interior of the vehicle. Upon visual inspection, she noticed the smoke originating from a fire on the passenger side visor. The contact stated that she was able to extinguish the fire herself after removing the visor from the vehicle. A police or fire report was not filed. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who failed to provide a diagnosis as to the cause of the failure. The vehicle was repaired as the visor was replaced, but the failure reoccurred.  When the failure occurred, the second visor light was blinking as the driver's side visor light was inoperable. The contact stated that the vehicle temperature gauge also increased. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer, who diagnosed an additional failure with the exhaust manifold. After investigating the failure, the contact related it to NHTSA Campaign Number 15V879000 (Electrical System, Interior Lighting), but the vehicle was not included in the recall.  The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 134,742.

The key keeps getting stuck in the ignition once the car is off. This prevents me from being able to leave my car unattended. I was trying to go grocery shopping and couldn't because the key wouldn't come out of the ignition for me to lock the doors. 01/04/2022. The most recent time this happened before today was about 2 weeks ago 12/21/2021. I tried starting the vehicle again and turning it off and it still wouldn't allow the key to release. My husband was able to get the key out the last after several hours. We will be scheduling an appointment with service center when an appointment becomes available to have it inspected. Based on research this has been an issue with captiva's in the past.

Driving vehicle all of a sudden it just cut off with no warning . Lost power just went dead and would not start back up had to get towed.

Check engine code P0420. Exhaust Manifold was found to be cracked. Already repaired

Key gets stuck in ignition. Lose all power WHILE DRIVING or parked! Requires a jiggle on the battery cable to restore power. Radio loses power randomly while driving. a/c shuts off. This has been happening since we bought the car in June 2021.

The key gets stuck in ignition and can't be removed when in park. If key can't be removed and remains in the car, it will drain the battery. The key gets stuck often maybe every other trip but at least once a day. This started happening over the last 6 months on random occasions but has increased in frequency in the last 30 days. It's now a regular event in which the key won't release from the ignition. Sometimes after multiple attempts at restarting the car and changing from park to drive and then to park again and changing position of the key, it may release after 20 minutes of this process. This is a safety issue because the car can be stolen with a key left in the ignition and/or the battery will be drained. Both are not good. There are numerous reports of this issue on the internet from other other with same car.

Key gets stuck in ignition and takes many tries to get it out, even from day one of buying it. Was informed that was a "safety" feature provided by Chevy themselves. When shutting off the vehicle, everything dies out like the battery went completely dead and car won't start again. Have to play with battery wires and fuse box before I hear the car make any noise again. Was informed by more than one mechanic that there are GM recalls for the thermal cable, battery protective cable, and starter motors, but nothing for my VIN has popped up. Have found almost 100 other complaints on multiple sites and more than a dozen reported accidents due to this issue. Car sits at almost 98,000 miles now and it will not turn over for me. Recalls should be put out for the entirety of this model because I have met 2 other people who have had the exact same problem and were informed that the dealerships have refused to acknowledge prior recall or safety information.

WE WERE INVOLVED IN A DOMINO EFFECT ACCIDENT, WHERE MY CAR WAS TOTALED. IT SUFFERED SEVERE FRONT AND REAR DAMAGE, WITH THE REAR WINDOW SHATTERED AS WE WERE STRUCK FROM BEHIND WHILE STOPPED IN TRAFFIC ON AN INTERSTATE. NONE OF THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED.

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated while attempting to shut-off the vehicle, the key ceased in the accessory position. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 43,000.

USSE TOO MUCH OIL, HAVE TO PUT 2 QUARTS IN BETWEEN OIL CHANGES, 3000 MILES. THE CAR WAS RUNNING SITTING AND THE CAR SHUT OFF. THEN WHEN WE LEFT THERE A LOT OF OIL ON THE PARKING LOT. A MESSAGE CAME ON AND IT SAID TO ADD OIL, WE PUT 3 QTS IN AND DROVE ABOUT 14 MILES AND THE CAR WAS OUT OF OIL

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF, SHE ATTEMPTED TO REMOVE THE CHILD FORM THE CAR SEAT AND WAS UNABLE TO UNLATCH THE SEAT BELT FROM THE BUCKLE. THE CONTACT STATED SHE HAD TO CUT THE REAR DRIVER'S SEAT BELT STRAP WITH A PAIR OF SCISSORS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT RECENTLY WHILE A PASSENGER WAS SEATED IN THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT THE SHOULDER STRAP WAS PLACED BEHIND THE PASSENGER HOWEVER, THE LAP STRAP WAS IN FRONT AND THE SEAT BELT WAS LATCHED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN SHE ATTEMPTED TO UNLATCH THE SEAT BELT IT FAILED TO UNLATCH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT YET DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 118,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

MY KEY KEEP GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION IT WON'T TURN ON LOCK TO GET THE KEY OUT.

TRUCK KEEPS CUTTING OFF!!

WHEN TURNING THE IGNATION OFF, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN OFF, IT STAY'S IN THE OPEN POSITION KEEPING THE ELECTRICAL PART OF THE CAR FROM TURNING OFF, WHICH COULD CAUSE AN ELECTRIAL FIRE. I AM UNABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNATION, IT MAKES THE CAR BATTERY RUN DOWN, AND SOMETIMES THE WIRES SEEM TO GET HOT FROM THIS.

THE VEHICLE IDLE CONTROL BEGAN MISBEHAVING, WHETHER STATIONARY OR IN MOTION. THE CAR CONSTANTLY IDLED HIGHER THAN IT SHOULD, EVEN AFTER A THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT AND FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT. NOW THE CAR IS RIDING WORSE THAN EVER, WITH A LOT OF VIBRATION IN THE STEERING COLUMN/BRAKES, WHICH HAPPENS SITTING STILL AND WORSENS AS THE SPEED CLIMBS. THE WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMPS (FRONT AND BACK) HAVE BOTH GONE OUT. THE SUSPENSION IS HORRIBLE AND DESPITE NEW TIRES, BALANCING, ROTATION, ALIGNMENTS...BRAKES/ROTORS, YOU NAME IT ... THE CAR JUST DOESN'T DRIVE VERY SMOOTHLY. NOW THE ENGINE IS KNOCKING AND THE TIMING CHAIN SOUNDS LIKE IT IS IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT. I DOUBT I WILL EVER BUY ANOTHER CHEVY, DESPITE BEING LOYAL TO THE BRAND AND ONLY PURCHASING CHEVYS. HIGHLY DISAPPOINTED IN THEIR CRAFTSMANSHIP, IF YOU CAN CALL IT THAT.

PCV SYSTEM DEFECTIVE, BAD OIL CONSUMPTION AND ENGINE NOISES WHILE IDLE-DRIVING

2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT LT MANIFOLD CRACKED CAUSING LEAK AND FUMES GOING INSIDE THE CAR. DOING RESEARCH I FOUND ARTICLE ABOUT THE CHEVROLET EQUINOX HAVING SAME ISSUE AND IT HAS A RECALL.

I HAVE BEEN COMPLAINING ABOUT SAFETY ISSUES WITH MY CAR FOR OVER A YEAR; SINCE 71K MILES. OVER THE PAST 30 DAYS, I HAVE TAKEN MY CAPTIVA IN FOR THE SAME ISSUES, CHIMES, AND DASHBOARD LIGHT UP DUE TO TRACTION CONTROL / STABILITRAK ISSUES. I'M TOLD THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE; YET, I'M OUT WITH MY GRANDDAUGHTERS AND THE DASHBOARD IS CONTINUOUSLY CHIMING AND SHOWING THE SAME ISSUES (STABILITRAK AND TRACTION CONTROL). I AM REQUESTING A REAL CHEVROLET TECHNICIAN TO LOOK AT MY VEHICLE. I'M SCHEDULED TO TAKE IT BACK THIS COMING WEEK. MILES ARE AROUND 80,654. I HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR FOR FOUR YEARS AND NOW I'M NOT COMFORTABLE DRIVING IT. LAST WEEK THEY SAY A TECHNICIAN LOOKED AT IT, BUT THE DASHBOARD DIDN'T LIGHT UP. MY CAR HAS SAT AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR NINE DAYS OVER THE PAST TWO WEEKS AND THE ISSUE IS UNRESOLVED. I AM APPEALING TO GM / CHEVROLET FOR HELP. I LOVE MY SUV AND HOPE TO GET AT LEAST 100K MILES OUT OF HER. THANK YOU!

MY VEHICLE WOULDN'T START, THOUGHT IT WAS THE BATTERY, WOULDN'T TAKE A JUMP, HAD TOWED TO MECHANIC, TOLD TIMING CHAIN BROKE, NEED A NEW, USED OR REBUILT ENGINE. IT ONLY HAS 84000 MILES ON IT, OIL CHANGES DONE REGULARLY, READ OTHER COMPLAINTS, SEEM VERY SIMULAR

ELECTRICAL POWER TO THE VEHICLE CUTS OUT RANDOMLY, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO SHUT DOWN IF DRIVING AND LOSING POWER STEERING CONTROL AND POWER BRAKES OR THE POWER PARKING BRAKE RANDOMLY ENGAGES, CREATING THE POTENTIAL FOR A DRIVING HAZARD. POWER ALSO CUTS OUT RANDOMLY WHICH CAUSES THE VEHICLE NOT TO START. DRIVER HAS TO OPEN THE HOOD AND MANUALLY MOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, SOMETIMES MULTIPLE TIMES, IN ORDER FOR POWER TO BE RESTORED. THIS MANUAL MOVE PUTS THE PERSON IN IMMEDIATE DANGER OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK SHOULD ANYTHING CREATE A POWER ARC WHILE PERFORMING THIS MANEUVER. GM SERVICE BULLETIN #13186 DATED JUNE 2013 ADDRESSES THIS ISSUE WITH A DEFECT IN THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE, BUT LIMITS IT ONLY TO THE WARRANTY PERIOD ONLY OF THE NEW VEHICLE AND NOT THE VEHICLE AS A WHOLE, YET NO RECALL HAS EVER BEEN ISSUED. BASED ON COMMENTS POSTED ON THE CHEVY FORUM, THIS PROBLEM IS CONSISTENT AND WIDESPREAD ACROSS THE CHEVY CAPTIVA VEHICLES. IT IS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME WHEN ONE OF THESE RANDOM POWER SHUTDOWNS LEADS TO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT OR DEATH. AT THE PRESENT TIME WE ARE FORCED TO REPLACE BOTH THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES AT A COST OF $590.

I HAVE A 2014 C. CAPTIVA AT 79K MILES, ONE SUNDAY ON MY WAY TO CHURCH, DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, I HEARD A POP AND THE CAR SHIFTED RIGHT AND SLOWED DOWN, I GET TO CHURCH AND THE SERPENTINE BELT CAME OFF, PUMP WAS LEAKING OIL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SHUT DOWN. OVER $1200 IN REPAIR COST. A FEW MONTHS LATER P0430 ERROR CODE - CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACED, NEW BRAKES FRONT AND BACK. CAR HAS NOT BEEN RIGHT SINCE. PAST 4 MONTHS TRACTION CONTROL ISSUES. IF I HOLD MY FOOT ON BRAKE AT STOP SIGN, ALARM GOES OFF DASHBOARD LIGHTS UP: TRACTION CONTROL, ENGINE LIGHT AND STABILITRAK. THREE DIFFERENT MECHANICS LOOKED AT MY VEHICLE TO NO AVAIL. I TOOK IT TO MY CHEVY DEALER AND YESTERDAY WAS ADVISED MY CAR IS FINE DRIVE IT FOR 150 MILES. I GO OUT THIS MORNING AT 5:00 AM AND WHILE AT TRAFFIC LIGHT, (1.5 MILES) ALL LIGHTS BACK ON. WHATEVER THE ISSUE, CHEVY NEEDS TO THOROUGHLY CHECK TO SEE WHAT'S CAUSING THE ISSUE, THE WEATHER IS CHANGING. I'M JUST OVER 80K MILES AND I BELIEVE MY CAR HAS BEEN THROUGH THE EXTREME AND HAS YET TO BE BROKEN IN. ALL THESE OCCURENCES HAPPEND WITHIN 12 MONTHS. I LOVE THIS CAR AND HOPEFULLY CHEVY CAN GET TO THE ROOT OF MY ISSUES AS THEY ARE DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE ENGINE. 79K MILES MY CAR WENT TO A CHEVY DEALER WITH COMPLAINTS OF ENGINE . 80,547 MILES BACK IN FOR ENGINE REPAIRS. DIAGNOSIS 15 LOSS OF COMMUNICATION CODES AND LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE.

CAR HAS NEVER MISSED AN OIL CHANGE, ACTUALLY SOMETIMES I GO BEFORE THE RECOMMENDED TIME. ALL OF SUDDEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS BECAUSE THERE IS NO OIL IN THE CAR. THE OIL WAS NOT EVEN DUE TO BE CHANGED, NO LEAKS AND NO SMELLS. CHEVY SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF THEMSELVES. ACCORDING TO GOOGLE THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM THAT HAPPENS TO THESE CARS AT OR AROUND 90K MILES. I GUESS I WAS LUCKY THAT I DID GET OIL CHANGES SO OFTEN, I MADE IT A LITTLE LONGER. THIS IS THE REASON THAT TOYOTA AND HONDA ARE DOING SO WELL. THEY MAKE QUALITY CARS AND ALTHOUGH EVERYONE SAYS SUPPORT US BASED COMPANIES, THINGS LIKE THIS MAKE IT HARD.

THE CAR WILL GO COMPLETELY DEAD WITH 0 POWER AND THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. OPEN THE HOOD AND POUND ON A FUSE BOX AND IT WILL START. IT IS DONE THIS ONE IS STATIONARY AND WHEN YOU'RE PULLING ON TO THE HIGHWAY OR OUT OF YOUR DRIVEWAY AND IT WILL KILL ITSELF

THE CAPTIVA SUDDENLY SHUTS DOWN RANDOMLY FOR ABSOLUTELY NO REASON. THE ISSUE WAS DIRECTED TO BE REPAIRED IN THE OTHER CHEVY VEHICLES BECAUSE THEY ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN HOWEVER THE CAPTIVA IS A FLEET VEHICLE WHICH MEANS THEY DIDN'T FIX THE KNOWN ISSUE OF PUTTING A FORD BATTERY SENSOR ON A CHEVY VEHICLE BECAUSE FLEET VEHICLES ARE RARELY SERVICED BY A DEALERSHIP. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE IS GOING TO DIE IF THEY HAVEN'T ALREADY. THIS HAPPENED TO ME LOSING ALL POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUTTING DOWN GOING 65 MPH ON THE FREEWAY WITH MY CHILDREN IN THE CAR WITH ME. I'VE NOT DRIVEN THIS CAR SINCE AUGUST BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO DIE AND I STILL OWE ABOUT 4 YEARS OF PAYMENTS ON THIS LEMON.

FREQUENTLY CAR WILL NOT START EVEN WITH GOOD BATTERY AND CABLE CONNECTIONS. WHILE DRIVING CAR WILL LOSE POWER. THE 3 GAUGES(RPM, SPEEDOMETER, AND GAS) ALL STOP AND WORKING. THE CAR WILL STILL RUN BUT AT A MUCH LESS POWER. SOMETIMES THEY START WORKING BUT RPMS WILL RUN VERY HIGH AND SPEED IS GREATLY DECREASED. MESSAGE COMES ACROSS TO SERVICE STABILITRAK AND TRACTION CONTROL. WARNING LIGHTS COME ON SUCH AS ABS, TCS WARNING,STABILITRAK INDICATOR, AND PARKING BRAKE WARNING. DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCK REPEATEDLY. AT TIMES HAVE BEEN ABLE TO RESET BY UNHOOKING BATTERY CABLE AND RECONNECTING AND WAITING. NO PATTERN AS TO WHEN AND WHY IT HAPPENS. MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN. HAVE EVEN REPLACED UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOX. OH AND KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. WHILE I WILL PUT A DATE, KNOW THAT THIS IS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST YEAR. USUALLY TWO TIMES A WEEK SOMETIMES MORE

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that the front passenger's side door handle fractured from the inside. The vehicle was taken to the body shop where it was replaced. The contact mentioned that the front driver’s door and rear passenger’s door handles were fractured from the inside. The contact informed the dealer of the defect. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.

WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK, SOMETIMES I CAN'T GET THE KEY TO TURN OFF THE CAR. I HAVE TO BACK UP, PULL FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES THEN FINALLY SOMETIMES I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. I WAS COMPLETELY STOPPED AND IN PARK. IT HAPPENS A LOT.

KEY IGNITION DOESN'T WORK HAVE HARD TIME TRYING GET CAR TO START. WHILE DRIVING ALL ELECTRICAL WILL GO OFF AND CAR WILL STOP THEN AFTER TRYING FEW TIMES WILL RESTART. HAD BATTERY REPLACED AND ENGINE CHECKED SAYS MAYBE SENSOR.

CAR DID NOT EVEN HAVE 125K MILES ON IT AND IT STARTED KNOCKING. TOOK IT INTO MY LOCAL SHOP AND THEY SAID THAT THE RODS WERE KNOCKING AND THAT THE ENGINE WAS GOING. ENDED UP PUTTING IN A BRAND NEW CRATE MOTOR. I REMEMEBER A TIME WHEN CHEVY'S WOULD LAST FOR UP TO 200K MILES. I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED THAT I HAD TO SPEND ALL THAT MONEY ON A NEW MOTOR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IN ORDER FOR THE VEHICLE TO BE STARTED, HE WOULD MOVE THE SEAT BACKWARD AND FORWARD BY TOUCHING THE ELECTRIC SEAT SWITCH THEN THE VEHICLE WOULD START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE TECHNICIAN REFERRED THE CONTACT TO A CHEVROLET DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER AND WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 62,000.

I BOUGHT THE CAR USED AND WITHIN THE FIRST 7 DAYS WHEN I WAS LEAVING FOR WORK, THE CAR WOULDN'T START. THE LIGHTS FLICKERED 1 TIME AND THEN WENT OFF. I TURNED THE KEY BACK THINKING I HAD A BAD CRANK AND THEN TRIED TO START IT UP AGAIN, THERE WAS NO LIGHTS OR ANYTHING. TRIED TO TAKE THE KEY OUT THE IGNITION, THE KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT. AFTER PLAYING WITH THE CAR, TRYING TO JUMP IT, I LOST HOME AND WAS REACHING TO TAKE MY BADGE OUT FROM BETWEEN THE SEATS. WHEN I WAS PUSHING THE SEATS BACKWARDS, THE LIGHTS CAME BACK IN AND THE CAR STARTED. 2 DAYS LATER WHEN I GOT HOME FROM GROCERY SHOPPING, I HIT THE CLICKER TO UNLOCK THE TRUNK, IT WOULDN'T OPEN, TRIED TO UNLOCK IT FROM THE DOOR, WOULDN'T OPEN. PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, CAR WOULDN'T TURN ON AND THE KEY WOULDN'T COME OUT THE IGNITION.

MY CURRENT PROBLEM IS THAT I AM NOW IN NEED OF A NEW ENGINE DUE TO THE FACT THAT THIS ENGINE, THE SAME ENGINE THAT IS IN THE CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT, USES AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF OIL AND THEREFORE HAS CAUSED MOTOR DAMAGE OVER THE PAST 6 YEARS. I REGULARLY CHANGE MY OIL, BUT DIDN'T REALIZE HOW MUCH OIL THIS ENGINE GOES THROUGH IN ADDITION TO REGULAR OIL CHANGES. IT SHOULD NOT NEED A NEW ENGINE AT THIS POINT IF THE ENGINE FUNCTIONED CORRECTLY. IN ADDITION, A FEW MONTHS BACK I HAVE DIFFICULTY WITH THE CAR NOT STARTING AS IF THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. NO ELECTRICAL WOULD WORK AT ALL IN THE CAR EVEN WITH A NEW BATTERY. I WOULD HAVE TO MESS WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS TO GET THE CAR TO START OR HIT THE FUSE BOX. ALSO, I HAVE HAD TIME WITH THE KEY GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND DRAINING THE BATTERY.

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY CAR. I TAKE IT IN FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE. IT HAS 71K MILES. WITHIN THE PAST (9) SERPENTINE BELT CAME COMPLETELY OFF, POWER STEERING PUMP HAD TO BE REPLACED, ENGINE COMPLETELY DIED ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. CAR OUT OF COMMISSION FOR (3) WEEKS, HAD IT TOWED FROM SITE TO MY MECHANIC AND TOWED FROM THEIR TO BOWSER CHEVROLET.. NOW MY ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. SENSOR WAS REPLACED LAST WEEK, LIGHT WENT OUT; MY ENGINE LIGHT IS BACK ON. I WILL BE TAKING IT IN FOR REPAIRS. P0420 ISSUE. I'M HOPING IT FALLS WITHIN PA STATE SPECIFIED MAJOR EMISSION-CONTROL COMPONENTS ARE WARRANTED FOR THE FIRST 8 YEARS OR 80,000 MILES OF VEHICLE USE.

KEY STICKS IN THE IGNITION LOCK--UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY. KEY STICKS ON ACCESSORY SETTING POTENTIALLY CAUSING BATTERY DRAIN. VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND IN PARK. IT HAPPENS PERIODICALLY. THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ON-LINE REGARDING THIS ISSUE SO THIS IS NOT AN ISOLATED PROBLEM.

THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT THE IGNITION WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF, I HAVE TO LEAVE THE KEY IN AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND USE MY SPARE KEY TO LOCK THE VEHICLE, SUCH A HASSLE

MY KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND IT DRAINS MY BATTERY.