2012 Chevrolet Cruze Electrical System Problems

The car's theft deterrent is not able to be turned off and is causing the car to stop working. I was driving my car on the highway and all of a sudden it completely shut off. I had it towed home. I replaced the battery and it worked for a short period of time but then shut off again. My mechanic states that the theft deterrent is getting triggered. We replaced the battery, fob battery, and checked everything it could possibly be with no luck. The car is too dangerous to drive and has caused missed work and loss of income.

Everything that has to do with the air in cabin and air intake for engine fails. Have issues all the time with it , told I need to fix one part then that fails again. Can’t use the AC in this car more than half the time if not an issue arises. Now I can’t get my inspection because again the same codes: P0097, P0171,P11c3, P 2199 At first I had only an issue with the MAF new one was placed and now all these errors popped up. The electrical also gave me issues before the lights are not as bright anymore in the car not the headlights. Too afraid to change them because I need the vehicle for my medical appointments and to pick up kids from school

Value covers leaking oil and I replace it 6 times and it keep leaking

Engine valve cover explode

The car began to shake uncontrollably on the freeway at 55/MPH . The car then marked "Engine Power is Reduced", causing the car to no longer accelerate more than 5-7/MPH. This is a very dangerous situation because it can cause a terrible accident on the road since it's a random inconvenience. I have heard that many of these types of cars "Chevy Cruze" seem to experience the same type of problem. With that being said it's safe to say that as an owner this situation is far out of my control and it's definitely a collective problem with the type of car and make that it is. I ask for this to be immediately looked into.

When the ac on the brake pad will lock and there no brakes you can't push it down it gets hard but when you turn the ac turns off the brake pad goes back to normal but it's damage to be driving and this happen .. Also the trac control light comes on along with the sailablzie light

Loses power replace the maf sensor new air filter replaced both thermostat sensors, the thing that regulates the gas and 3 oil changes only had the car 2 months. Now a differnt code is showing about a mis fire.. i dnt think any of the recalls were completed on my car

The temperature gauge never shows the hand even get to half on the hot cold fail however the car could have no coolant and be 400 degrees the sail will Or reflect so. This has caused many probable s bc I can’t tell when it over hears it’s mezwwzs the comupeter

The problem I have is a very, very common problem and a huge safety issue to my life or anyone with the same car within around 2011 to 2015. The cheap plastic levers for the mode actuator for my defrost and vents do not work. They have broken and this I barely have any heat coming out of the front vents and absolutely none coming from the defrost. This is a huge issue and highly affects my driving in the cold and snowy, or even rainy, weather. I’m so upset there has not been a recall thus far. No one wants to spend 1000 dollars for a five dollar part when it’s not their fault that the levers are faulty! This is Chevrolets and thus, GMCs problem. My safety is highly threatened when I can’t defrost the ice nor the fog over my windshield meaning I cannot see!! I scrape it and as soon as I drive it gets worse I had to pull over today because I couldn’t see at all! It’s scary and not okay! Please admit to the mistake and fix the problem. Please!

WHILE DRIVING AT SPEED THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WOULD COME ON ENGINE WOULD START TO JERK AND THEN LOST POWER

OIL IS RUNNING FROM A CAST NUT THAT HOLDS AN ALTERNATOR BRACKET TO THE ENGINE BLOCK AND WITH THE CAR GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS THERE' A STRONG POSSIBILITY THAT OIL COMING FROM THIS CAST NUT THAT CANT HOLD THE BRACKET STABLE IS LETTING THE PRESSURE OF THE OIL TO RUN OUT AND POSSIBLY COME IN CONTACT WITH THE INTERNAL WORKINGS OF THE ALTERNATOR AND SHORT IT OUT WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF A FIRE STARTING AND CAUSING OTHER PROBLEMS UNDER THE HOOD PLUS THE CHANCE OF DESTROYING THE ENGINE IF THE LEAK OF THE OIL PRESSURE PUSHES THAT END OF THE BRACKET OUT OF THE ENGINE BLOCK AND THE OIL WILL COME OUT LIKE WATER COMING OUT OF A WATER HOSE. WHAT IS HAPPENING NOW EVERY TIME I DRIVE THE CAR AND STOP IT LEAVES OIL ALL OVER DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND THE OIL LEAVES A BIG PUDDLE ON MY GARAGE FLOOR AND I END UP HAVING TO CRAWL UNDER THE CAR TO CLEAN EXCESS OIL OFF THE ENGINE AND THE GARAGE FLOOR ON A REGULAR BASIS. YOU TUBE IS SHOWING THAT SEVERAL DIFFERENT PEOPLE HAVE THIS PROBLEM THE BRACKET IS PUSHING OUT DUE THE FACT THAT THE CAST NUT IS BREAKING DOWN DUE TO THE HEAT AND IN TURN OIL STARTS RUNNING ALL OVER THE TOP SIDE OF THE MOTOR AND INTO DIFFERENT AREAS OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. IT MIGHT REALLY GIVE YOU A BETTER IDEAL OF THIS PROBLEM IF YOU LOOK ON YOU TUBE CONCERNING OIL LEAK PROBLEMS WITH THE CHEVROLET CRUZE 1.4L ENGINE STARTING IN 2012 AND IT STARTED ON APPROX. 10-15-2020 AND CONTINUES TO HAPPEN ACCORDING TO HOW FAR I DRIVE AND HOW LONG THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE. IF I CAN HELP YOU TO HELP ME AND A LOT OF OTHER PEOPLE THAT ARE HAVING THIS PROBLEM . THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND I HOPE THIS CAN BE TAKEN CARE FOR THE SAFETY ASPECT! THANKS AGAIN I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP.

MY CAR HAS STARTED TO GET HARD TO BRAKE. EVEN GOING FORWARD OR REVERSE SLOWLY THE CAR DOES NOT WANT TO BRAKE. I TRY TO BRAKE AND THE CAR STILL SLIDES FORWARD OR REVERSE. I SOMETIMES HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKE MULTIPLE TIME AND IT DOES NOT ALWAYS HELP. I HEARD THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE BUT MY CAR'S VIN IS NOT APART OF THE RECALL WITH THE SAME ISSUE. I BLEED THE BRAKES AND PUT NEW FLUID AND NOT MUCH HAS REALLY CHANGED. I HAVE A CHEVROLET CRUZE ECO 1.4L, ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

PASSENGER HEADLIGHT WILL NOT KEEP LOW BEAM/HIGH BEAM ON EVEN WITH NEW BULBS, CHANGED SOCKET CONNECTORS, PROBLEM SEEMS TO REAPPEAR, HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING AND STATIONARY

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO NUMEROUS MECHANICS WHO HAVE REPLACED THINGS AND IT STILL COMES ON. THE HEATING AND COOLING HAND WILL GO HAYWIRE BUT IT'S NOT RUNNING HOT AND ALL THE OTHER LIGHTS ON THE DASH WILL BLINK ON AND OFF. I THINK THE COMPUTER IS BAD.

I PURCHASED A CAR ON DECEMBER 19TH 2019 I PUT $4,000 DOWN ON A 2012 CHEVY CRUZE FROM A FROM A USED CAR LOT HERE IN DAYTONA BEACH FLORIDA I CANNOT GET MY OIL CHANGE THE SCREW THAT LETS THE OIL OUT OF THE OIL PAN HAS BEEN STRIPPED AND I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE OIL CHANGED BECAUSE IN ORDER TO DO THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO BREAK IT AND SPOT WELDING WOULD NEED TO BE DONE ALSO EVERY TIME I SHUT MY CAR OFF AND GO TO TURN IT BACK ON I HAVE TO GET A JUMP MY CAR BATTERY LOSES ITS ENERGY OR WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL IT SO IT LOSES POWER MY BATTERY THE BATTERY IS 5 YEARS OLD ALSO MY ROTORS ARE BRAND-NEW BUT MY BRAKE PADS ARE BAD AND THEY WOULD NOT WHEN I SAY THEY I MEAN AUTOVENTURE IN HOLLY HILL FLORIDA WHERE I BOUGHT THE CAR WILL NOT GIVE ME A CARFAX INSTEAD THEY GAVE ME ANOTHER THING THAT'S LIKE CARFAX AND IT SAYS THAT MY CAR IS FULL IS AND THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH IT WHEN INDEED THE MOTOR ITSELF IS FROM A JUNKYARD AND THEY DID NOT DENY THAT SO THIS IS WITHIN THE FIRST THREE WEEKS OF ME HAVING THE CAR AND I'M ALREADY SEEING THIS MANY PROBLEMS. ALSO I HAVE AN OIL LEAK I WAS TOLD TO PURCHASE A A COVER TO WHERE YOU PUT THE OIL IN THE CAR CUZ THE COVER MIGHT BE OLD AND IT STILL MIGHT NOT BE AS GOOD SO I WENT TO CHEVY DEALERSHIP AND PURCHASE IT FOR $28 ONLY TO FIND OUT THAT VALVE COVER GASKET ALSO NEEDS TO BE REPLACED SO MY CAR IS LEAKING OIL THE OIL CHANGE PLACE WHERE I'VE BEEN TAKING MY CAR'S THE LAST 6 YEARS WOULD NOT TOUCH MY CAR AND GIVE ME AN OIL CHANGE DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE BOLT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN HAS BEEN STRIPPED SO NOT ONLY IS MY OIL AT 6% BUT NOW I CAN'T GET MY OIL CHANGED BECAUSE OF IT

I HAVE A 2012 CHEVY CRUZE 1.4 TURBO ENGINE THE ISSUE IS OVER HEATING .. THIS ISSUE IS REOCCURRING.. I WAS DRIVING FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 TO 20 MINUTES WHEN THE INDICATOR ON THE DASH READS THAT THE CAR IS TO HOT YO DRIVE AND WILL SHUT DOWN LEFT ME STRANDED ON THE ROAD SIDE. I TAKE IT TO CHEVY DEALER TO LEARN THERE HAS BEEN A THERMOSTAT PROBLEM I GET THE ISSUE REPAIRD IT RUNS OK FOR A WHILE THEN AGAIN SAME PROBLEM (OVER HEATED) ONE AGAIN. TAKE AGAIN TO CHEVY DEALER THEY TELL ME IT'S THE WATER PUMP. I HAVE THE WATER PUMP REPAIRED. ALL IS OK FOR A SHORT WHILE. AGAIN THE SAME ISSUE I CALL CHEVY DEALER AGAIN TO BRING MY CAR BACK FOR THE 4TH TIME. THEY SCHEDULE MY APPT. TO LOOK AT MY CAR ONE AGAIN AND ON MY WAY TO THE DEALER CAR OVER HEATS TURNS ITS SELF OFF AND WILL NOT START BACK AFTER COOLING DOWN. FINALLY I GET THE CAR TO THE DEAL TO LEARN THAT IT BLEW THE HEAD GASKET AND NOW BECAUSE IT' OVER HEADED SO MANY TIMES I NOW NEED AN ENGINE!!! THERE HAS BEEN EXTEND WARRANTY ON ALL OF THE COOLING PARTS OF THE ENGINE AND THIS ISSUE SHOULD ALSO BE COVERED HOWEVER THE DEALER WILL NOT FIX THE CAUSED PROBLEM FROM THE FAULTY PARTS !!!!!!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE ABRUPTLY SHUT OFF AND THE START/STOP BUTTON LIGHT FLASHED. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND DRIVEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE SHUT OFF VALVE FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO AUTONATION CHEVROLET OF NORTH RICHLAND HILLS (7769 BLVD 26, NORTH RICHLAND HILLS, TX 76180), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 123,000.

SOMETIMES WHEN I SLOW TO A STOP OR JUST DRIVING CAR SHUTS OFF WITHOUT WARNING. NO LIGHTS OR ANYTHING COME ON IN THE DASH SHOWING IT'S OFF. STARTS RIGHT BACK UP BUT VERY DANGEROUS COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

CAR WILL NOT START. PUT KEY IN THE IGNITION AND IT WILL NOT TURN OVER. HAD MECHANIC COME AND CHECK OUT AND HE SAID THE IGNITION SWITCH IS NOT GETTING THE POWER IT SUPPOSED TO ONE CORE READS 12 VOLTS THE OTHER 6 AND THEY BOTH SUPPOSE TO READ 12 VOLTS TO TURN IT OVER.

RADIO AND DASH KEEP GOING OFF AND THEN BACK ON WHILE DRIVING. STABILITY CHECK KEEPS FLASHING I HAVE HAD THIS LOOKED AT AND THERE IS NOTHING WRONG