2007 Ford Taurus Electrical System Problems

Basically I was driving and stopped and my house and while in ideal the wiring under the hood and under the fender into the dash all started to melt together shorting the systems so I tried to repair and replace the parts due to being a used vehicle and didn't know how to report this until now. So I cut the melted chunk of wiring harnesses out and trashed it. But I stopped due to the inability to find any replacement harnesses from Ford or mercury so now my car has been sitting for several months. I have only been able to find melted harnesses on junk yard cars. Ford used poor quality 16 gauge wiring that the outer coating became brittle and easily frayed. Every wiring harness I've seen has bad spots from wires melting or breaking and corroding. I'm my case the wiring melted causing the cooling system to stop working properly and almost damaged or may have damaged my engine. I don't have full coverage so I am forced to park it and do what I can myself which has made me lose my job and ruined my life. Please do look into this I'm sure more people have the same issue just check a junk yard and you'll see what I mean. Thank you for your time I will try to provide any further information or help if needed anyway I can to make sure someone doesn't get hurt.

CAR SUDDENLY STOPS RUNNING WHILE DRIVING WHILE TURNING INTO INTERSECTION

TAKATA RECALL , MOONROOF STOPPED CLOSING ONE DAY. IT HAS TO MANUALLY BE SHUT IF OPENED SO WE DON'T USE IT. IT MAKES LOUD CLICKING NOISE. THE FUSE FOR GEM 5A STARTED HAVING ISSUE. FUSE IS NEVER BLOWN. BUT TO OPEN OR CLOSE WINDOWS, THE FUSE WOULD NEED TO BE PULLED OUT AND PUT BACK IN WITH DOOR OPEN. THE WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID SPRAYER WORKS RANDOMLY. MECHANIC CHECKED MOTOR, TUBES, ETC AND CAN'T FIND ANYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED OR THAT WOULD MAKE IT WORK WHEN IT WANTS TOO. THIS HAS ALL BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE AND SOMETIMES BOOT AN ISSUE FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS NOW. FIRST OCCURRENCE, TWO YEARS AGO IN 2016 AND LAST OCCURRENCE WAS 2 WEEKS AGO IN 2018

ELECTRONIC MESSAGE CENTER (ODOMETER, TRIPOMETER ETC.) BECAME DIMLY LIT AND IMPOSSIBLE TO READ DURING DAYLIGHT

TAKATA RECALL I WAS DRIVING 60MPH AND TRIED TO SET CRUISE CONTROL AND TOOK FOR OFF GAS ABS THE CAR KEPT ACCELERATING FAST. ABOUT 80MPH I TAPPED THE BRAKE, CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT TURNED OFF AND CAR KEPT ACCELERATING AND RPMS WERE IN THE RED. I PUSHED AS HARD AS I COULD ON THE BRAKES AND CAR KEPT ACCELERATING PAST 85MPH AND I WAS NOW COMING INTO 30MPH ZONE AND RPMS WERE HIGH AND I TRIED TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL CAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. THE ENGINE REVVED COMPLETELY UP WITH RPMS AND I FINALLY JUST THREW IT IN PARK IN ROAD AND TURNED CAR OFF AND CALLED INSURANCE FOR TOW TRUCK. MY SON SAID I HAD BURNT MY BRAKES.. UNSURE OTHER THAN THERE WAS SMOKE FROM SOMEPLACE UNDER CAR. I GOT DOWN AND VISUALLY AND LOOKED FOR GAS PEDAL TO BE STUCK OR ANYTHING AND IT WAS NORMAL. TRIED STARTING CAR AND IMMEDIATELY TURNED IT BACK OFF DUE TO RPMS IN RED. HAPPENED 3 SEPERATE TIMES BUT MECHANIC NEVER FOUND ANYTHING WRONG OR WHAT IT WAS SO MY DAD DISCONNECTED THE CRUISE CONTROL WIRES OR SOMETHING WITH CRUISE CONTROL. CAR IDLES NOW HIGH AND RPMS RUN HIGHER THAN NORMAL. NOBODY KNOWS WHAT TO FIX SO I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO FIX.

THIS CAR DIED TWICE AS MY WIFE WAS DRIVING HOME YESTERDAY. NO WARNING. IT WAS RUNNING WELL SINCE BUYING IT A MONTH AGO, AND IS WELL MAINTAINED WITH 105K MILES ON IT. IT FIRST DIED 500 YARDS FROM HOME, AND DIED AGAIN AS SHE PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY. THIS SHUTS DOWN POWER STEERING AND BECOMES VERY DIFFICULT TO STEER. IT RESTARTED WHEN SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL OR PARK. WE HAVE RESEARCHED AND FOUND OTHER PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. SOME DYING AT 70 MPH ON HIGHWAYS WITH NO WARNING. SPORADIC DYING UP TO 5 TIMES DAILY OR MONTHS BETWEEN INCIDENTS. CARS HAVE BEEN TAKEN TO MECHANICS AND DEALERS, NONE OF WHOM HAVE CORRECTLY DIAGNOSED/FIXED THE PROBLEM. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED WITH ALL DUE HASTE! THANK YOU.

I WAS DRIVING AND STARTED TO BREAK COMING UP TO A RED LIGHT. THE CAR DID SLOW DOWN BUT I COULD FEEL FROM MY FOOT ON THE BREAK PEDAL, A VIBRATION AND THE CAR ENGINE STARTED MAKING A RUMBLING SOUND, LIKE IT WAS "REVVING" IN HIGH GEAR. I TOOK MY FOOT SLIGHTLY OFF THE BREAK AND THE CAR ACCELERATED FORWARD ON ITS OWN. I PULLED INTO A PARKING LOT AND WAS ABLE TO PARK AND TAKE OUT THE KEYS. IT WAS TOWED TO A FORD DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID THE SPEED CONTROL CABLE IS BROKEN.

I HAVE A WATER LEAK ON MY PASSANGER SIDE FLOOR WHICH SHORTED OUT MY HEATER BLOWER I HAD NOTICED THE LEAK IT HAPPENED TONIGHT WHILE I WAS DRIVING THEN WHEN I TURNED ON MY HEAT THE BLOWER STOPPED WORKING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD TAURUS. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE ABS AND BRAKE LIGHTS REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 142,652.

SPUTTERS AS IF STARVING FOR GAS, WON'T GO ABOVE 3000RPMS, SHUTS OFF

FLOOR BEHIND GLOVE BOX IS GETTING WET WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED AND SITS IN THE RAIN. MUST BE COMING IN THE HOOD OR WINDSHIELD. MULTIPLE REPORTS ON LINE ABOUT THE COWL OVER CABIN AIR FILER. OR A RAIN HAT EXTENSION. CAUSING A/C MOTOR TO GO OUT NOW BECAUSE OF THE WATER COMING IN CONTINUALLY. CANT SEEM TO GET THE PROBLEM SOLVED ON OUR 2007. HOPING WATER LEAK DOES NOT CAUSE A FIRE IF IT KEEPS COMING ON THE WAY IT HAD BEEN. *TR

WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT ON MY WAY HOME I SEEN A FLASH ON THE MILEAGE SCREEN AND THEN IT BECAME BLANK NOW NOTHING APPEARS ON THE MILEAGE. FORD CLAIMS IT WILL BE ABOUT 900.00 TO FIX IT. *TR

VEHICLE ROUGH STARTED AND WAS SURGING AND DIED IN THE LANE OF A TWO LANE BUSY ROAD, HAD TO MANUALLY STEER THE VEHICLE OFF THE BUSY ROAD INTO A DRIVEWAY UNTIL HELP ARRIVED. VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES. THE KEY WAS THEN CYCLED 3 TIMES AND THE CAR STARTED. INCIDENT #2 11/25/2013, SAME SCENARIO, WOULD NOT START FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES WHEN KEY WAS RECYCLED 3 TIMES THE THIRD OR FOURTH TIME. *TR

ELECTRONIC MESSAGE CENTER (ODOMETER, TRIPOMETER ETC.) BECAME DIMLY LIT AND IMPOSSIBLE TO READ DURING DAYLIGHT. *TR

THE ENGINE IDLE SPEED WOULD SURGE AFTER A COLD START. A MECHANIC CLEANED THE THOTTLE BODY. THIS SEEMED TO HELP THE SURGING PROBLEM, BUT THEN THE CAR WOULD START TO ACCELERATE FOR NO APPARENT REASON. TO STOP THE VEHICLE FROM ACCELERATING, IT WAS NECESSARY TO SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL & PUMP THE GAS PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES. AFTER THIS HAPPENED A COUPLE OF TIMES I HAD THE IDLE CONTROL MODULE REPLACED. FOR A WHILE THE VEHICLE RAN OK, THEN IT STARTED TO ACCELERATE AGAIN FOR NO REASON. WHILE IT WAS ACCELERATING, I SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL AND PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. TURNED THE ENGINE OFF AND THEN ON AGAIN AND IT REVVED UP TO 4000 RPM. LOOKING AROUND THE THROTTLE BODY, I FOUND A CABLE DISCONNECTED FROM THE LOWER PART OF THE THROTTLE BODY. THIS CABLE WENT TO A BOX NEAR THE FIREWALL WHICH I ASSUME TO BE THE CRUISE CONTROLLER. I RECONNECTED THE CABLE AT THE THROTTLE BODY AND HAVE NOT ANY PROBLEMS SINCE THEN. HOWEVER, I AM AMAZED AT HOW EASY IT IS TO DISCONNECT THE CABLE FROM THE THROTTLE BODY. IT PROBABLY BECAME DISCONNECTED WHEN THE MECHANIC CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY. *TR

I WAS DRIVING DOWN A ROAD AT 45 MPH AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WENT OFF. THE AUTOMATIC LOCKS STARTED LOCKING AND UNLOCKING, THE DASH LIGHTS, ALARM SYSTEM, AIR BAG, CHECK ENGINE, CAME ON AND THE SPEEDOMETER AND THE TACHOMETER WENT TO ZERO EVEN THOUGH I WAS MOVING. I BROUGHT IT TO A MECHANIC AND THEY COULD FIND NOTHING. IT HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY SINCE THEN, THE LATEST GOING 65 MPH ON A FOUR LANE HIGHWAY IN HEAVY TRAFFIC. THE ENGINE CUTS OUT AS WELL, BUT THE BLINKING LIGHTS MAKE ME THINK IT'S ELECTRICAL. IT'S RIDICULOUSLY DANGEROUS. *TR

ENGINE CRANKS EASILY BUT ACTS AS THOUGH THERE IS NO FUEL OR SPARK. GAUGES IN THE DASH START TO JUMP AND TICK. GENERALLY CAR STARTS AND RUNS FINE AFTER A FEW ATTEMPTS AT STARTING. DEALERSHIP SAID THAT ALTERNATOR WAS BAD AND REPLACED ALTERNATOR AT FORD DEALERSHIP AND IT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. PROBLEM HAS BEEN OCCURRING WEEKLY, ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK. *TR

WE HAVE AN 07 FORD TAURUS THAT WE PURCHASED IN 09. LAST MONTH THE ENGINE STARTED CUTTING OFF WHILE SLOWING DOWN TO A STOP. THE RADIO AND A/C WOULD CUT OUT AND AFTER A FEW SECONDS WOULD COME BACK ON. AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK OR NEUTRAL, IT RESTARTS. THIS PROBLEM ALSO OCCURRED WHILE I WAS MAKING A LEFT HAND TURN INTO THE AUTO SHOP TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT. IMAGINE THE FEAR I HAD WHEN MY CAR SHUTS OFF, POWER STEERING IS OUT WHILE A DUMP TRUCK IS HEADED TOWARD ME. LUCKILY I MADE IT OFF THE ROAD IN TIME. THE AUTO SHOP KEPT THE CAR ALL DAY AND FOUND A MISFIRE CODE BUT NOTHING ELSE. THEY COULD NOT TELL WHERE THE MISFIRE WAS HAPPENING AND CLEARED THE CODE. THE PROBLEM NEVER HAPPENED FOR THEM. MY HUSBAND PERFORMED A TUNE UP ON THE CAR. IT SEEMED FINE UNTIL 3 DAYS AGO WHEN MY HUSBAND GOT OFF A FREEWAY EXIT AND WAS TAKING THE RAMP THAT VEERED OFF TO THE LEFT. THE CAR SHUT DOWN ON HIM AND HE HAD A VERY NARROW PLACE TO STOP TO RESTART IT. IT DIED ON US TWO TIMES TODAY AS WE WERE SLOWING DOWN ON THE FREEWAY. THE A/C WAS ON DURING THIS TIME. NO INSTRUMENT LIGHTS COME ON WHEN THIS HAPPENS. WE WILL TAKE IT BACK TO THE SHOP TO SEE IF THEY CAN FIGURE IT OUT. FROM WHAT I'VE READ ONLINE, THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN WITH THIS CAR. PLEASE HELP FIGURE THIS OUT. THIS CAN BE A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION TO BE IN. THANK YOU. *TR

2007 FORD TAURUS 10/25/2006: WITH 23,774 MILES I TOOK THE CAR TO WEBSTER FORD FOR A KNOCKING NOISE I HEARD COMING FROM THE ALTERNATOR. THEY FOUND PARTS WERE MISSING IN THE MOTOR DURING PRODUCTION WHICH RESULTED IN REPLACEMENT OF THE MOTOR.(INVOICE #32124) 04/18/2007: AT 30,308 MILES I RETURNED TO DEALER FOR NOISE COMING FROM AROUND THE ALTERNATOR. THEY REPLACED THE TENSION CONTROL ARM (WHICH THEY DAMAGED DURING THE MOTOR REPLACEMENT IN APRIL 2006) AND ALSO A NEW SERPENTINE V-BELT (INVOICE #38704) THERE SERVICE BILLS STATE ALL PARTS AND LABOR WARRANTY ARE 12 MONTHS OR 12,000 MILES WHICH EVER COMES FIRST; GOOD FROM THE ORIGINAL DATE OF SERVICE. 2/24/09: AT 39,448 MILES I EXPERIENCED AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE WHILE DRIVING, THE BATTERY LIGHT INDICATOR CAME ON. 2/25/09: MIDAS CHECKED ENGINE FOUND BATTERY FAILURE NO OTHER SYMPTOMS. REPLACED BATTERY $118.79. 3/9/09: AT 39,455 MILES THE INDICATOR LIGHT "CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM" COMES ON. MIDAS REPLACED THE ORIGINAL 2006 ALTERNATOR. A 2007 ALTERNATOR WAS ORDERED BUT WOULD NOT FIT/WORK BECAUSE IT WAS TOO LARGE. AFTER REPLACEMENT OF ALTERNATOR THE INDICATOR LIGHT" CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM" CAME BACK ON, $382.32. 3/10/09: AT MILEAGE 39,348 TOOK CAR BACK TO WEBSTER FORD FOUND TO FIND THE ALTERNATOR GROUND WIRE, IN AN ENCLOSED WIRING HARNESS ASSEMBLY, THAT HAD 3 SEPARATE SHORTS. ALL 3 WERE SPLIT OPEN (I HAVE TWO OF THE PIECES). THE WIRE WAS TWISTED TOO TIGHT WHICH CAUSED THE SPLITS, INVOICE #50848 $242.46 THE SHORTS HAPPENED EITHER DURING PRODUCTION IN 2006 OR DURING THE SERVICE AT WEBSTER FORD IN APRIL, 2008. TOTAL COST $743.57. *TR

THE DIGITAL READOUT ON MY INSTRUMENT PANEL (PROVIDES CAR MILEAGE, AVG MILEAGE, TRIP METER, MILES TO EMPTY AND TIME) WOULD DIME AT FIRST UNTIL IT FINALLY WENT COMPLETELY OUT. WHEN IT WOULD DIME IF I HIT THE DASHBOARD, IT WOULD RETURN TO FULL BRIGHT FOR A WHILE. IT WOULD FINALLY GO OUT COMPLETELY AND I COULD HIT THE DASHBOARD TO GET IT TO COME BACK ON. FINALLY, IT WENT OUT AND WOULD NOT COME BACK ON. I WENT TO THE DEALER AND THEY JUST KEPT TELLING ME THAT THE WHOLE INSTRUMENT PANEL WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED. AND, ALL I HEARD WAS THEM TELLING ME THAT THEY WANTED MONEY, MONEY AND MORE MONEY. I TOOK THE INSTRUMENT PANEL APART MYSELF AND DISCOVERED THAT A PIECE HAD COME LOOSE. I RESOLDERED THE PIECE TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD AND CUT AWAY A PIECE OF THE CASING THAT WAS RUBBING AGAINST THE PART THAT CAME LOOSE. I HAVEN'T HAD ANY OTHER PROBLEMS SINCE THIS INCIDENT. *TR