2010 Mazda Mazda3 Complaint Log

MY 2010 MAZDA 3 DRIVES FINE AND DOES NOT HAVE MECHANICAL ISSUES. THE ISSUE INVOLVES THE INTERIOR DASHBOARD. SINCE IT WAS MADE FROM SOME TYPE OF RUBBER, THE SUN HAS BEEN MELTING IT. AESTHETICALLY IT DOESN'T LOOK GOOD, BUT WHILE DRIVING TOWARD THE DIRECTION OF THE SUN, THE GLARE IT CAUSES ON MY FRONT WINDSHIELD HAS BEEN AFFECTING MY DRIVING. I HAVE SPOKEN TO A COUPLE OF PEOPLE AT A LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP AND ONE RIDICULOUS EMPLOYEE GAVE ME RECOMMENDATIONS SUCH AS TO PARK MY CAR IN A GARAGE, OR UNDER TREES WHENEVER POSSIBLE. APART FROM THOSE IDIOTIC REMARKS, I WILL HAVE TO PAY OUT-OF-POCKET DUE TO THE FACT THAT I AM NOW PAST MY WARRANTY. I PREVIOUSLY OWNED A MITSUBISHI FOR 10 YEARS AND THAT NEVER HAD ISSUES ALONG THOSE LINES. I HAVE TAKEN VARIOUS PHOTOGRAPHS OF HOW MY VISION IS BEING OBSTRUCTED AND WOULD HAPPILY SEND THEM TO ANYONE I NEED TO. THE CHEAP RUBBER MATERIAL USED FOR THE DASHBOARD SHOULD NOT SIMPLY MELT BECAUSE OF THE SUN. THE SUN WILL ALWAYS BE PRESENT, THEREFORE THESE THINGS SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO CONSIDERATION DURING MANUFACTURING. I WOULD LOVE TO GET THIS ISSUE RESOLVED BEFORE HAVING TO LOSE MONEY AND NEVER DEAL WITH MAZDA AGAIN. OVERALL I LIKE THE CAR, BUT I CANNOT STAND THE WAY THE INTERIOR HAS DIMINISHED IN SUCH A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. *TR

MY DASH BOARD IS MELTING AND DURING THE DAY IT IS HARD TO SEE OUT THE FRONT WINDSHIELD DUE TO THE GLARE THE MELTING DASH BOARD. THE FRONT HOOD PAINT IS CHIPPING OFF ONLY ON SELECT SECTIONS OVER THE ENGINE. *TR

THE SENSOR FOR PASSENGER AIR BAG OFF STARTING STAYING ON, NOTHING WAS IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. NOW THE SENSOR THINKS SOMEONE IS IN THE SEAT ( WHEN NO ONE IS IN SEAT) AND KEEPS FLASHING THE BUCKLE SEAT BELT WARNING. *TR

FROM THE START MY DRIVERS SEAT WAS LOOSE. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER AND EACH TIME THE PROBLEM WAS NOT SOLVED, THE REPLACED THE TRACK ASSEMBLY, TIGHTENED THINGS UP AND AFTER A FEW HUNDRED MILES THE PROBLEM RETURNED. *TT ON THE DAY OF MY ACCIDENT, I WAS STOPPED AT LIGHT AND WAS THE CAR BEHIND ME. A DIFFERENT CAR SMASHED THROUGH THE CAR BEHIND ME CAUSING THAT VEHICLE TO HIT ME FROM BEHIND AND FORCING ME INTO THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. NO AIR BAGS DEPLOYED AND NO ONE WAS HURT. AFTER THE INCIDENT, I GOT BACK INTO MY CAR AND THE SEAT ROCKED AS IF IT WAS A ROCKING CHAIR. DRIVING THE CAR HOME, THE SEAT ROCKED TO EVERY BUMP IN THE ROAD. I HAVE REASON TO BELIEVE IF I WAS IMPACTED WITH HIGHER FORCE THE SEAT WOULD HAVE CAME LOOSE FROM THE BASE.

DASH BOARD IS MELTING. WHEN DRIVING IT CAUSES A GLARE ON WINDSHIELD WHICH IS DANGEROUS WHEN DRIVING! *TR

WHILE COMING OFF A TURN AT 35 MPH AND BRAKING SLIGHTLY, THERE WAS POP NOISE AND THE DRIVERS SIDE SEAT BEGAN TO ROCK BACK AND FORTH. ONCE I HAD AN OPPORTUNITY TO CHECK THE SEAT IT HAD APPEARED THAT THE WELDING OF THE SEAT HAD SNAPPED AND THERE WAS A PIECE OF METAL THAT WAS ONCE PART OF THE TRACK THAT HAD SNAPPED CLEAN OFF. THERE WAS NOT AN ACCIDENT OR HARD BRAKING. HOWEVER, THIS SEEMS TO BE A DEFECT IN THE WORKMANSHIP OF THE TRACK THAT THE SEAT SITS ON OR HOW IT IS ATTACHED. *TR

MY DASHBOARD MELTED. *TR

DRIVERS SIDE SEAT BROKE AT WELDED ATTACHMENT POINT TO ADJUSTER RAIL

POWER DRIVER SEAT FRAME CRACKED. THE PLASTIC PUSH PIN SCREW HOLDING SEAT FRAME TO FRAME SNAPPED OFF. THE SEAT IS READY TO BREAK OFF FROM CHASSIS MOUNT. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH ALL MAZDA'S SUB-STANDARD SEAT FRAME MOUNTS. RECALL ISSUED FOR MANUAL SEAT FRAME, BUT NOT FOR THE POWERED SEAT FRAME.

I WAS DRIVING ALONG AND FELT THE DRIVERS SEAT SHIFT BACKWARDS. FROM THAT POINT ON THE SEAT WAS UNSTEADY AND MOVED FORWARD AND BACKWARD DEPENDING ON WHICH I WAS DOING, ACCELERATING OR BREAKING. UPON EXAMINATION, IT WAS FOUND THAT THE WELD ON THE SEAT BRACKET HAD BROKEN. IN MY OPINION, THIS IS A VERY UNUSUAL BREAK AND COULD BE VERY HAZARDOUS IF IT HAPPENS UPON BRAKING. *TT

WATER INTRUSION AND CONDENSATION BUILD-UP INSIDE THE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY CAUSING MAJOR DAMAGE AND REQUIRED WHOLE UNIT REPLACEMENT. USUALLY HAPPEN AFTER A RAINSTORM OR CAR WASH. THIS HAD OCCURRED TO BOTH HEADLAMPS ON MY VEHICLE. THE FIRST INCIDENT HAPPENED IN APRIL 2012 TO THE PASSENGER-SIDE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY AFTER I WASHED THE VEHICLE. THE LAST INCIDENT HAPPENED IN OCTOBER 2013 TO THE DRIVER-SIDE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY AFTER A RAIN STORM. *TR

APPROXIMATELY 2 YEARS AGO I NOTICED MY DASH BOARD WAS WET LOOKING AND STICKY. IT HAS PROGRESSIVELY GOTTEN WORSE. MY DASH BOARD IS MELTING. THIS IS A HUGE SAFTEY HAZZARD AS THE GLARE FROM THE MELTING DASH AFFECTS MY VISION WHEN DRIVING DURING THE DAYLIGHT. *JS

WHILE CHECKING AND INFLATING A CUSTOMER'S TIRES THE VALVE STEM BROKE CAUSING THE TIRE TO COMPLETELY DEFLATE. *JS

ON 2 OCCASIONS I WAS COMPLETELY STOPPED, FOR A RED LIGHT AND STOP SIGN, WHEN THE ENGINE REVVED ON ITS OWN AND THE CAR LURCHED FORWARD. FELT LIKE I WAS PUSHING BRAKE PEDAL THROUGH THE FLOOR TO STOP IT BUT IT RECOVERED ON ITS OWN AFTER SEVERAL SECONDS. VERY SCARY. I AM AFRAID OF HITTING A CAR OR SOMEONE. AT THE MAZDA DEALER NOW AND HAS BEEN FOR A WEEK AS THEY TRY TO FIND OUT THE PROBLEM. *TR

I OWN A 2010 MAZDA 3 AND THE DASHBOARD HAS MELTED TO THE POINT THAT IT PRODUCES A GLARE ON THE WINDSHIELD RIGHT AT EYE LEVEL. I TRIED TO HAVE MAZDA REPLACE IT BUT THEY SAID BECAUSE MY WARRANTY HAD EXPIRED THEY WOULD NOT DO IT. I BOUGHT THE CAR IN 2010 ANY BY 2012 IT HAD STARTED MELTING. THIS IS CLEARLY A SAFETY HAZARD FOR ME AND EVERYONE ELSE ON THE ROAD AS SOMETIMES IT PREVENTS ME FROM SEEING OUT THE WINDSHIELD AT ALL. *TR

THE DRIVER SIDE INTERIOR DOOR LATCH CABLE BROKE. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED WITH THE NEW MAZDA 3. *TR

I HAVE HAD MY 2010 MAZDA 3S SINCE JUNE OF 2010 WHEN I BOUGHT IT NEW. I DRIVE TO AND FROM WORK EVERY DAY. I HAVE 26,000 MILES ON IT, 75% OF WHICH ARE HIGHWAY MILES. I WAS DRIVING TO WORK LAST WEEK, AND NOTICED SOMETHING WITH THE CAR FELT OFF. EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK IT GOT WORSE AND WORSE, SO I FINALLY BROUGHT IT TO MY MECHANIC WHO TOLD ME, AS I SUSPECTED, THAT THE CLUTCH WAS SLIPPING AND NEARING THE END OF ITS LIFE. I HAVE YET TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS ON THIS CAR, AND TO GET TOLD THAT THE CLUTCH IS GONE BEFORE I EVEN REPLACE NORMAL MAINTENANCE ITEMS IS JUST FLAT OUT UNACCEPTABLE. I HAVE HAD TWO PREVIOUS CARS WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, AND NEVER REPLACED A CLUTCH, EVEN WHEN THEY HAD CLOSE TO 100,000 MILES ON THEM. MY MECHANIC SUGGESTED BEFORE I DO ANYTHING, TO LOOK ON FORUMS AND SEE IF ANYONE ELSE HAS BEEN HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH PREMATURE CLUTCH WEAR. I HAVE SPENT MY WHOLE WEEKEND ON MAZDA AND EDMUNDS FORUMS READING ABOUT COUNTLESS PEOPLE WITH MY MODEL YEAR, 2010, WHO HAVE HAD CLUTCHES GO BEFORE 35,000 MILES. THIS IS NOT A ONE-OFF CASE, AND IT IS CERTAINLY NOT A "WEAR AND TEAR" ISSUE AS THE DEALERSHIP SAYS IT IS. THAT'S THEIR BLANKET COVER-THEIR-[XXX]STATEMENT BECAUSE THEY KNOW THEY PUT OUT A POOR PRODUCT AND DON'T WANT TO DEAL WITH THE COSTS INCURRED WITH REPLACING THEM. I HAVE NO FAITH ANYMORE IN MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP, OR MAZDA AS A BRAND AT THIS POINT. WITH THE SIGNIFICANT NUMBER OF SIMILAR ISSUES TO MINE, THE FACT THAT THEY ARE STILL UNWILLING TO ADMIT THAT THEY CHOSE AN INFERIOR SUPPLIER TO CUT COSTS FOR ONE OF THE MOST CRUCIAL PARTS OF THE CAR, THAT ISN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, IS JUST PISS POOR BUSINESS PRACTICE. I DON'T KNOW WHAT WRITING THIS WILL DO, IF ANYTHING, BUT I DECIDED THAT I AM DONE BEING [XXX] AROUND BY THE DEALER AND HOPEFULLY THIS IS FOLLOWED BY OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO SHARE THE DISTASTE FOR THEIR PRODUCT AND SERVICE AS I DO. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).*TR

MAZDA HAS ISSUES WITH CONDENSATION IN FRONT LIGHTS AND REAL LIGHTS LEADING TO EXCESSIVE WATER BUILDING UP IN LIGHT CAVITY. THE WATER RESTRICTS LIGHT AND HAS SHORTED OUT HEADLIGHT BULB ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS AS I DROVE DOWN THE ROAD. THIS CAUSES A SERIOUS ISSUE AT NIGHT AS I AM DRIVING. MAZDA AND DEALER REFUSE TO FIX SIGHTING BULLETIN FROM MAZDA THAT THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM AND NOT TO FIX UNLESS LIGHT ENCLOSURE IS FULL OF WATER. *TR

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF THIS VEHICLE, PURCHASED BRAND NEW. IN JANUARY 2010. THE HEATER WHEN TURNING ON, MADE A LOUD CLICKING SOUND FOR APPROX. 20- 30 SECONDS, EACH TIME. UPON RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET, LOCAL MECHANICS, I FOUND OUT THE HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR IS THE PROBLEM. I WAS GOING TO REPLACE IT, BUT UPON FURTHER INVESTIGATION I FOUND THAT THIS HEATER ASSEMBLY IS NOT ONLY USED BY MAZDA, NISSAN, TOYOTA, CHEVY, FORD, AND LEXUS. THIS IS HEATER IS KNOWN TO HAVE THIS DESIGN ERROR. ALSO THE DEALER HAD UNPLUGGED THE HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR BECAUSE THIS UNIT IS KNOWN TO START A FIRE IN THE VEHICLE. THIS MADE ME EXTREMELY NERVOUS. I CONSIDER THIS TO BE AN UNSAFE VEHICLE.

AT LESS THAN 24,000 MILES, MY CLUTCH HAS BEGUN TO SLIP TERRIBLY AND CREATES A TERRIBLE BURNING SMELL. I KNOW THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO HAVE ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THEIR CLUTCHES BEFORE THEY'VE HAD TO REPLACE BRAKE PADS. THIS IS A DRAIN ON CONSUMERS, AND A SAFETY ISSUE TO BOOT. *TR

I PURCHASED A 2010 MAZDA 3 AS A DEMO ON JULY 30, 2011 WITH 4100 MILES ON IT. I NOW HAVE 8500 MILES ON IT AND THE CLUTCH HAS FAILED. AFTER TAKING IT TO THE LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD IT WAS A NORMAL WEAR PRODUCE AND IT HAD BEEN ABUSED SO I HAD TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IT HAD A HIGH RELEASE IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL BUT I FIGURED IT WAS NORMAL FOR THE CAR. SINCE EARLY NOVEMBER, THE "INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER" HAS BEEN EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO THE POINT THAT I CANNOT MAINTAIN SPEED UP A SLIGHT INCLINE WITHOUT THE ENGINE REVVING UP. I WAS TOLD WHEN I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP THIS WAS DUE TO A CLUTCH FAILURE. I DON'T BELIEVE IT IS ACCEPTABLE FOR A CLUTCH TO GO OUT AFTER JUST 8500 MILES OF DRIVING. MY PREVIOUS VEHICLE WENT OVER 100,000 MILES OF MY SAME DRIVING AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION WITHOUT ANY CLUTCH ISSUES. I AM NOT HAPPY WITH MAZDA, MAZDA PARTS, AND MAZDA'S CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE ON THIS ISSUE. *TR

THE VALVE STEM OF MY TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM (TPMS) HAD SIGNIFICANT CORROSION LEADING TO IMMEDIATE AND RAPID DEFLATION OF FRONT LEFT TIRE WHILE REMOVING AIR HOSE WHILE TENDING TO TPMS WARNING LIGHT. THE RAPID DEFLATION WAS DUE TO COMPLETE AND IMMEDIATE SEVERANCE WHERE THE THREADED PORTION OF VALVE STEM MET VALVE CAP WITHOUT ANY TORQUE OR ABNORMAL PRESSURE APPLIED. THE SEVERED EDGE OF THE VALVE STEM SHOWS CLEAR EVIDENCE OF CORROSION 360 DEGREES AND INWARD, WITH A THIN HALO (APPX. 1/10 OF THE WALL) REMAINING. BOTH THE TIRE AND VALVE STEM SHOWED NO SIGN OF LEAKING AND HELD PROPER PRESSURE WHILE FILLING TO RECOMMENDED PRESSURE UNTIL REMOVAL OF AIR HOSE CAUSED THE STEM TO SPLIT HORIZONTALLY BETWEEN THE 9TH AND 10TH THREAD. PLASTIC VALVE CAPS WERE IN PLACE ON ALL 4 TIRES. SPARE TIRE ALSO NOT ABLE TO BE PUT IN PLACE DUE TO 'STUCK' LUG NUTS ON SAME TIRE; SIMILAR CORROSION IS SUSPECT, POSSIBLY CAUSED BY GALVANIC CORROSION DUE TO METALS FOUND IN DISK BRAKES, SHOES OR ALLOY RIM. VEHICLE IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY AND NEEDED TOW TO NEAREST MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIR. WHEN CALLING THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT ABOUT SENDING MY VEHICLE OVER I ADDRESSED MY CONCERNS ABOUT THE OTHER 3 VALVE STEMS NEEDING REPLACEMENT AND WAS TOLD "THEY ARE $150 EACH SO IF YOU WANT TO PAY TO HAVE THE OTHER ONES REPLACED YOU CAN, BUT THE DEALERSHIP ISN'T GOING TO PAY FOR IT" MY RESPONSE: "REALLY? I'M THANKFUL THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN ON THE HIGHWAY, I WOULD HOPE THE SAFETY OF YOUR CUSTOMERS WOULD COME FIRST" ..NO IM SORRY, NO WE'LL LOOK INTO IT FOR YOU, JUST "WELL CAN I GIVE YOU THE NUMBER FOR ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE?" *TR

I'VE CALLED MAZDA SEVERAL TIMES ABOUT MY DASHBOARD MELTING AND THE DON'T WANNA DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT AND AS TIME GOES BY IT GETS WORSE UR FINGER PRINTS STAY IN DASHBOARD WHEN TOUCH. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT HEARD A SQUEAKING NOISE COMING FROM THE SEAT WHEN HE WOULD SIT. THE DEALER INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE WELD WAS FRACTURED ON THE SEAT PAN. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS AWAITING REPAIRS TO THE VEHICLE. THE CURRENT AND THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 19,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

WHILE SERVICING A 2010 MAZDA3 WE CHECKED THE CUSTOMER'S TIRE PRESSURE AS REQUIRED BY LAW. THE VALVE STEM SNAPPED OFF WHEN AN AIR LINE WAS ATTACHED TO INFLATE THE TIRE. *TR

CLUTCH FAILED AT 19.5K MILES. IVE ONLY HAD HER SINCE NOVEMBER, AND WITH THE WAY I DRIVE THERES NO WAY IN HELL THE CLUTCH SHOULD GO OUT THIS SOON... NOW AS TO EXPLAIN AS TO WHAT HAPPENED, I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN MY ENGINE STARTED REVING A BIT ODDLY WHEN I BARELY PRESSED ON THE GAS PEDAL. IT WENT FROM THE NORMAL 2900 RPM IN 6TH GEAR AT ABOUT 65 MPH AND SHOT UP TO 3500 WAY TO QUICKLY THEN DROPPED BACK TO 2900 AND SLOWLY ROSE HOW IT SHOULDVE TO GET ME TO 70MPH...IT CONTINUED DOING THIS WHEN I GOT OFF THE HIGHWAY FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES, GROWING STEADILY WORSE UNTIL I WAS UNABLE TO GET INTO ANY GEAR AT ALL. THERE WAS NEVER A SMELL OF CLUTCH INSIDE THE CAR THE ENTIRE TIME, NO ODD NOISES, NO GRINDING, AND THE CLUTCH WAS ABOUT HALF AS STIFF AS IT NORMALLY WAS. SO I CALLED DEALER, THEY TOWED MY CAR(COURSE IT TOOK FOREVER BECAUSE THEY SENT THE TRUCK TO THE WRONG LOCATION HAHA). IT TOOK 2 DAYS BEFORE THEY EVEN GOT TO GLANCE AT THE CAR TO SEE WHAT NEEDED TO BE DONE(NOT TAKE APART MIND U, JUST LOOKED), AND SAID THE CLUTCH WAS "SMOKED" NO OTHER SPECIFICS BUT WANTED ME TO AUTHORIZE THEM FOR 525 WORTH OF LABOR PLUS PARTS -_-. SO NOW IM STUCK FIGHTING THEM TO REPAIR THIS UNDER WARRANTY(I KNOW THERES USUALLY NOT A WARRANTY UNLESS MANUFACTURERS DEFECT..BUT THIS IS DEFINITELY DEFECTIVE). INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6) *TT

POWER DRIVER SEAT ROCKS FORWARD AND BACKWARD DURING ACCELERATION AND SUDDEN BRAKING. APPROX. 1/2" PLAY. THE MOVEMENT IS VERY NOTICEABLE AND DISCONCERTING. I FEAR THAT I MAY LOSE CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. DEALER INSISTS CONDITION IS NORMAL. *TR

HAVE HAD INTERMITTENT POWER STEERING LOSS WITH INDICATOR LIGHT ILLUMINATION FOR APPROXIMATELY ONE YEAR. AFTER ENGINE GETS UP TO TEMP POWER STEERING CUTS OUT. IT WILL SOMETIMES RESUME AFTER STOPPING TO LET THE ENGINE COOL. CURRENT RECALL EXTENDS TO 2007-2009 MODEL YEAR VEHICLES UNTIL THE MONTH BEFORE MY VEHICLE WAS MADE. MAZDA REFUSES TO RECOGNIZE THAT THIS COULD BE RELATED AND SINCE VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY WON'T REPAIR. *TR

THERE HAS NOT BEEN A FAILURE TO DATE, HOWEVER, ADDING MY VEHICLE TO THE OTHER MAZDA3'S IN THE DATA BASE WHERE THE DESIGN OF THE VEHICLE IS CREATING UNEVEN TIRE WEAR. AS I HAVE READ IN NO LESS THAN 5 BLOGS, THE MANUFACTURER INTENTIONALLY CAMBERS THE REAR TIRES TO INCREASE THE PERFORMANCE AND HANDLING AND UPON NORMAL ROTATION OF THE TIRES, A "BUMPING" NOISE CAN BE HEARD AND FELT. THE TIRE MANUFACTURER WILL DO NOTHING AND STATES IS A DESIGN ISSUE AND MAZDA STATES I MUST DEAL WITH THE TIRE MANUFACTURER. THIS UNEVEN TIRE WEAR AND VIBRATION COULD LEAD TO ADDITIONAL TIRE WEAR AS NOTED BY OTHER OWNERS. AT 11,000 MILES, I SHOULD NOT BE FACED WITH REPLACING THE TIRES.

WHILE I WAS MAKING A EXIT FROM THE FREEWAY ONTO A LOCAL ROAD, I LOST CONTROL OF THE STEERING WHEEL WHILE SLOWLY BRAKING. AFTERWARDS MY CAR SPUN OUT OF CONTROL AND I WAS IN A HEAD ON COLLISION WITH THE GUARD RAIL FOR THE HIGHWAY RAMP. THIS HAPPENED WITH MY CAR LOGGING CLOSE TO 21500 MILES. INSPECTION AT THE BODY SHOP DETERMINED THAT ISSUES BETWEEN THE BRAKE PADS AND STEERING WHEEL LED TO THE STEERING WHEEL STOPPING. FIXING THIS PROBLEM INVOLVES REPLACING BRAKE AND POSSIBLY STEERING COMPONENTS ACCORDING TO THE BODY SHOP. *TR

TIRE PRESSURE AND REGULATING SYSTEMS - I OWN A 2010 MAZDA 3 AUTOMATIC (14,542 MILES) --ALSO PURCHASED JUST OVER A YR AGO. I HAVE NOW HAD "THREE" VALVE STEMS THAT HAVE BROKEN; WITH SLOW LEAKS AND FLAT TIRES. THE LAST ONE LEAVING ME STRANDED FOR 2 HRS UNTIL HELP ARRIVED. THIS ALSO HAPPENED 2 DAYS AFTER I HAD MY CAR IN FOR SERVICE FOR ANOTHER TIRE WITH A "VALVE" STEM REPLACEMENT--COSTING ME $198.00. ALSO TOLD THERE IS NO RECALL AND IT APPEARS MAZDA HAVING PROBLEMS NOW WITH THIS FOR A FEW YEARS. ALSO THOUGHT IT FUNNY THAT WHEN DEALERSHIP COMPLETING MY PAPERS THEY COMMENTED THAT THEY JUST COMPLETED EXACT SAME PAPERS FOR CAR BEFORE MINE !!!! I AM A CAUTIOUS DRIVER AND I KNOW MY WHEEL/TIRES WHERE NOT DAMAGED AND THAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE VALVE STEM. I NOW HAVE 3 NEW VALVES STEMS THRU MY COST ---JUST WAITING FOR LAST ONE TO GO AND THEN WILL SEE HOW LONG THE "NEWER" ONES LAST. HAVE A FEELING THIS WILL BE AN ONGOING PROBLEM. AT LEAST DEALERSHIP CHANGED THE ONE TODAY AS A GOOD WILL FREE OF CHARGE. *TR

EXCESSIVE REAR SUSPENSION NOISE OVER ANY SURFACE IRREGULARITIES, DEALER FULLY AWARE OF RIGHT REAR SWAY BAR LINK AS SOURCE OF NOISE, REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

WHEN JACKING THE VEHICLE UP TO CHANGE THE TIRE THE MAIN ROD THAT SUPPORTS THE JACK BENT CAUSING THE JACK TO JUMP OUT FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE FELL ON THE GROUND. *TR

MY NEW 2010 MAZDA 3 HATCHBACK WAS SHOWING SIGNS OF UNUSUAL HIGH/IRREGULAR TIRE WEAR. THE TIRES WERE ROTATED AS PER THE COMPANY RECOMMENDED SCHEDULE. IT WAS FOUND THAT THE REAR TRAILING ARMS AND LOWER SHOCK BOLTS WERE LOOSE. AT 22,000 MILES THE FRONT TIRES THAT HAD BEEN ROTATED TO THE REAR WERE ALSO WEARING UNEVEN AND AT A HIGH RATE CONSIDERING THIS WAS ONLY MORE THAN A 5,000 MILE PERIOD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MAZDA ON JANURARY 17,2012 INFORMING THEM THAT I HAD CHECKED ONLINE AND THIS EXCESSIVE TIRE WEAR HAS BEEN KNOWN BY MAZDA FOR OVER (5) YEARS. THE SERVICE MANAGER CONFIRMED THIS ISSUE AND MAZDA HAS DONE NOTHING TO REPAIR/RECALL THE VEHICLE. THE SERVICE MANAGER ALSO STATED THAT ALMOST ALL OF THE MAZDA 3 MODEL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. LOOKING THROUGH OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO HAVE HAD TIRES WEAR OUT AT OR AROUND THE 25,000 MILE RANGE THAT THERE IS A FIX FOR THE PROBLEM. I.E. AN ADJUSTABLE CAMBER ROD WHICH ONE OWNER HAD DONE AND THE CAR WENT .....60,000 MILES ON A SET OF TIRES. MAZDA KNOWS OF THIS PROBLEM, HAS NOT DONE ANYTHING EXCEPT PRODUCE MORE VEHICLES WITH THIS PROBLEM AND THERE IS A DAMNED FIX FOR IT..IT ALSO IS AMAZING AND DAMNING THAT THIS ADJUSTABLE ROD IS MANUFACTURED BY...........M A Z D A....I WOULD DEMAND AN ANNOUNCEMENT AND RECALL OF THESE VEHICLES AS THE INSIDE OF THE TIRE WEARS AT AN EXTREMELY HIGH RATE AND FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT CHECK THE TIRE CONDITION OF THEIR CAR NOR TO ROTATE THE TIRES, THIS WILL LEAD TO A TIRE FAILURE/BLOWOUT WHICH WILL CREATE A HIGH ACCIDENT RISK. MAZDA KNOWS THE PROBLEM AND HAS DONE NOTHING, MAKE IT PUBLIC,DEMAND A RECALL AND ENSURE COMPLIANCE TO THIS POTENTIAL SERIOUS PROBLEM IS RESOLVED. CASE#415686 INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6) *TT

THE FRONT GLASS OF THE VEHICLE BROKEN IN A SMALL HOLES. *TR

I OWN A 2010 MAZDA SPEED 3. PURCHASED JUST OVER A YEAR AGO. I HAVE A VALVE STEM THAT HAS BROKEN, WHICH RELEASED PRESSURE. THE VALVE STEMS USED ON THE VEHICLE ARE INCORPORATED INTO TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM (TMPS), AND THE DEALER REQUIRES THAT BOTH ITEMS BE REPLACED FOR $125. AFTERMARKET COMPANIES, SUCH AS DORMAN OFFER REPLACEMENTS THAT ARE MODULAR, AND ALLOW THE CONSUMER TO REPLACE JUST THE STEM, IF BROKEN. THE FACTORY, CONVENIENTLY DOES NOT OFFER THEM COMPONENT INDIVIDUALLY. BY THE LOOKS OF ONLINE FORUMS, THIS IS A PROBLEM THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS. I HAVE OWNED VEHICLES FOR 30 YEARS NOW, AND I HAVE NEVER ENCOUNTERED A BROKEN VALVE STEM LIKE THIS. THERE IS NO TRAUMA TO THE WHEEL ITSELF THAT WOULD EXPLAIN A BUSTED STEM THAT DOES NOT PROTRUDE BEYOND THE RIMS OUTER EDGE. I BELIEVE THAT THIS DANGEROUS PROBLEM COULD BE ELIMINATED IF MAZDA WERE TO REDESIGN THE THREADED PORTION OF THE STEM TO BE THICKER. THE ALUMINUM STEMS ARE MACHINED SO THINLY, THAT THEY FAIL, OR ARE EASILY DAMAGED WHILE PERFORMING BASIC MAINTENANCE. THE MAZDA DEALER DOES NOT FEEL THAT THE PARTS ARE FAULTY, AND THEY REFUSE TO COVER THIS UNDER WARRANTY. THE SERVICE MANAGER SAYS THEY HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THIS BROKEN STEM PROBLEM. I FIND THAT EXTREMELY HARD TO BELIEVE. RESOLUTION: I NEED TO GET MY SPARE TIRE OFF THE CAR, SO I WILL BE DROPPING THE WHEEL OFF AT A TIRE SHOP TO REPLACE THE UNIT WITH A STANDARD METAL STEM UNTIL I DECIDE WHAT ROUTE TO TAKE. MY RESEARCH LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THAT THIS WILL NOT BE THE LAST PROBLEM I HAVE LIKE THIS, UNTIL I GET THE DANGEROUS FACTORY ONES OFF OF MY VEHICLE. *TR

REPLACED 1ST OF 16 TIRES TO DATE. SINCE OWNING THIS CAR, WE'VE HAD TO REPLACE TIRES 1X/YEAR. THIS IS DUE TO THE OVERLY AGGRESSIVE CAMBER ON THE CAR. DURING THIS TIME, WE'VE TAKEN IT TO 2 SEPARATE MAZDA DEALERS WHO DENY ANY DEFECT IN THE CAR. AS A LAST RESORT WE'VE CONTACTED MAZDA, NA, WHO REFERRED US BACK TO ONE OF THE DEALERS WE'VE DEALT WITH IN THE PAST. THEIR SOLUTION WAS ADDITIONAL ROTATIONS AND ALIGNMENTS. YOU CAN'T ALIGN CAMBER WHEN IT MEETS THE MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS THAT CAUSE THE TIRES TO WEAR ON THE INNER SIDE PREMATURELY. WE HAVE 80,500 MILES ON THE CAR AND HAVE PUT ON 4 SETS OF TIRES. MAZDA DENIES ANY DEFECT, JUST AS THEY DID 20 YEARS AGO WITH A SEAT BELT PROBLEM THAT RESULTED IN A RECALL AFTER GOVERNMENT INTERVENTION. THE TIRE ISSUE IS A SAFETY ISSUE IN THAT THE WEAR IS OUT OF SIGHT. THIS LAST PAIR OF TIRES WERE PURCHASED DUE TO A BLOWOUT ON A MAJOR ROAD AND HAVING TO CHANGE TO THE DONUT WHILE ON THE SHOULDER. MAZDA WILL NOT BACK THEIR VEHICLES, SO DON'T BUY THEM! *TR

I OWN A 2010 MAZDA3. A FEW WEEKS AGO WHILE DRIVING MY FRONT SEAT MADE A POPPING SOUND AND BEGAN ROCKING BACK AND FORTH CAUSING ME TO LOSE CONTROL OF THE CAR MOMENTARILY. I TOOK IT INTO THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN ALEXANDRIA VIRGINIA (BROWNS MAZDA ON ROUTE 1) AND ASKED THEM TO LOOK AT IT. THEY DETERMINED THAT WELDING ON MY SEAT BOTTOM HAD COME UNDONE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. MY CAR'S WARRANTY IS FOR 3 YEARS/36 THOUSAND MILES AND AT THE TIME OF THE INCIDENT MY CAR HAD 45 THOUSAND MILES. MAZDA DECLINED TO FIX THE SEAT AND STATED THAT I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPAIRS. MY CONTENTION IS THAT THE DRIVERS SEAT IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND IF INVOLVED IN A COLLISION THE SEAT MAY DISLODGE AND CAUSE ME MORE BODILY INJURY THAN IF THE SEAT WERE PROPERLY ANCHORED. I HAVE CONTACTED MAZDA'S CUSTOMER CARE LINE AND ALSO E-MAILED THEM AND ON BOTH OCCASIONS THEY HAVE IMMEDIATELY DISMISSED MY CLAIM STATING THAT MY VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THE REPAIRS ARE MY RESPONSIBILITY. THE DRIVERS SEAT OF A VEHICLE IS AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE SAFETY IN THE CAR AND DUE TO A MANUFACTURER ERROR MY SEAT IS NOW LOOSE AND UNSAFE TO DRIVE. *TR

CLUTCH MALFUNCTION SAYS IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE WHICH IS IT BECAUSE THE CAR ONLY HAS 19,000 MILES. *TR

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF THIS VEHICLE, PURCHASED BRAND NEW. IN JANUARY 2012 THE HEATER WHEN TURNING ON MADE A LOUD CLICKING SOUND FOR APPROX. 20 TO 30 SECONDS, EACH TIME. UPON RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET, LOCAL MECHANICS, I FOUND OUT THE HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR IS THE PROBLEM. I WAS GOING TO REPLACE IT, BUT UPON FURTHER INVESTIGATION I FOUND THAT THIS HEATER ASSEMBLY IS NOT ONLY USED BY MAZDA, NISSAN, TOYOTA, CHEVY, FORD, AND LEXUS. THIS HEATER IS KNOWN TO HAVE THIS DESIGN ERROR. I THEN DECIDED TO HAVE THE MAZDA DEALER CHANGE IT FOR $130.00. THE DEALER THEN TOLD ME THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY NEEDED CHANGING FOR $250.00 PLUS LABOR. THIS ASSEMBLY WAS KNOWN FOR THIS. ALSO THE DEALER HAD UNPLUGGED THE HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR BECAUSE THIS UNIT IS KNOWN TO START A FIRE IN THE VEHICLE. THIS MADE ME EXTREMELY NERVOUS. I CONSIDER THIS TO BE AN UNSAFE VEHICLE. *TR *JS

I HAVE A 2010 MAZDA 3 SPOR WITH 41,000 MILES AND THE CLUTCH TOTALLY WENT. CLUTCH , FLYWHEEL HAD TO BE REPLACED FOR $1800 DOLLARS. MAZDA REFUSED TO ADMIT ANY DEFECT. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED CAUSING HIM TO LOOSE CONTROL OF HIS STEERING WHEEL AND WAS ALSO UNABLE TO APPLY THE BRAKES. HE THEN CRASHED INTO A MAILBOX AND THE SIDE OF A MOUNTAIN. A POLICE WAS FILED. THE DRIVER WAS NOT INJURED AFTER THE CRASH. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALSO CONTACTED AND INFORMED HIM THAT THEY WERE AWARE OF THE FAILURE IN PRIOR YEARS, BUT NOT OF THE 2010 MODELS. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 6100. UPDATED 03/03/11

ON DECEMBER 21, 2010 CAR STALLED AND LOST STEERING AND BRAKE CONTROL ON 12/22 HAPPENED AGAIN RESULTING IN ACCIDENT AND $9,000 IN DAMAGE. *TR

A LOW SPEED REAR-END COLLISION RESULTED IN AN IMMEDIATE EXPLOSION OF THE VEHICLE, CAUSING A LARGE EXTERNAL FIRE AND SMOKE TO ENTER THE CABIN UPON IMPACT. THE STRUCTURAL DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE OCCURRED ON THE FRONT-RIGHT; THE FIRE DESTROYED THE ENTIRE FRONT 2/3 OF THE VEHICLE (TOTALING THE VEHICLE). THE CONCERN IS THAT SUCH A LOW SPEED IMPACT SHOULD NOT CAUSE AN EXPLOSION WHICH COULD POTENTIALLY HAVE INJURED OR KILLED THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS.

I PURCHASED MY 2010 MAZDA 3 IN AUGUST 2009. IN DECEMBER 2010, I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK AND STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN, I ENGAGED THE CLUTCH AND I FELT A POP UNDER MY FOOT AND THE CLUTCH BECAME STUCK. WHEN IT FINALLY CAME BACK UP IT VIBRATED AND JERKED ITSELF BEFORE GOING BACK TO STARTING POSITION. I PUT THE CAR IN FIRST GEAR AND ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE. THE CAR ACCELERATED BUT THE VEHICLE DID NOT MOVE. TO SEE IF THE CLUTCH WAS CATCHING, I PUT THE CAR IN FIRST GEAR AND TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE CLUTCH WITHOUT GIVING IT GAS. THE CAR DID NOT TURN OFF AS IT NORMALLY WOULD IF I DID NOT GIVE IT GAS WHILE IN FIRST GEAR. THE CLUTCH FAILED WITHOUT WARNING AT 20,100 MILES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER AND I WAS ADVISED THAT THE ENTIRE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND I MIGHT HAVE TO REPLACE THE FLYWHEEL. I WAS ADVISED THE CLUTCH WAS CONSIDERED A WEAR ITEM AND COULD NOT BE REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. HOWEVER, DUE TO THE SUDDEN AND PREMATURE NATURE OF THE FAILURE, I AM SPEAKING WITH MAZDA IN AN ATTEMPT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE FIXED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

I LIFTED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE LEVER TO ENGAGE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND NOTICE THAT THE LEVER CAME UP THE WHOLE WAY WITH VERY LITTLE RESISTANCE. I HAD NO IDEA WHY THIS WAS HAPPENING. A FEW DAYS LATER I REALIZED THAT AFTER THE SAME ISSUE HAD OCCURRED THERE WAS WHITE SMOKE COMING OUT OF THE REAR-LEFT WHEEL BRAKE PAD. I TOOK MY CAR TO A MAZDA DEALER TO HAVE IT SERVICED (SINCE IT'S BARELY ONE YEAR OLD), AND THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY PROBLEMS THE FIRST TIME AROUND. I HAVE DONE A LITTLE BIT OF SEARCHING ON THE INTERNET AND THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TIME THIS SAME ISSUE HAS HAPPENED. I WOULD LOVE TO GET SOME FEEDBACK FROM MAZDA SINCE I ALMOST GOT INTO A BAD ACCIDENT YESTERDAY (DEC 15) IN ATLANTA DUE TO ICY ROADS AND A FAULTY REAR-LEFT BRAKE ON A BRAND NEW CAR. *TR

AT 5000 MILES CLUTCH STARTED TO MAKE SQUEAKING SOUND AND VIBRATION WHEN ENGAGING. *TR

THE FRONT DRIVER'S SEAT SUPPORT BRACKET HAS BROKEN AT THE WELD AND IT RESULTS IN THE FRONT SEAT NOT BEING STABLE. IT ROCKS BACK AND FORTH WITH ACCELERATION AND BRAKING. THE ENTIRE SEAT IS NOT STABLE. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA, MAZDA3. WHILE PARKED, THE CONTACT NOTICED THE REAR DRIVER SIDE TIRE WAS LOW ON AIR AND SEEMED AS IF THE TIRE WAS FLAT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A TIRE SHOP WHERE THE TECHNICIANS STATED THE SENSORS WERE DAMAGED AND THE TIRE WAS NOT FLAT. THE FAILURE ALSO OCCURRED TO THE FRONT AND REAR PASSENGER SIDE TIRES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE TIRE SHOP WHERE THE TECHNICIANS STATED ALL THREE TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THE REPAIRS WOULD NOT BE COVERED BY WARRANTY BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS ORIGINALLY TAKEN TO THE TIRE SHOP INSTEAD OF THE DEALER. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 32,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA, MAZDA3. WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE CONTACT HEARD A HUMMING NOISE AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO VIBRATE EXCESSIVELY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO TWO DIFFERENT AUTO MECHANICS AND THEY BOTH RECOMMENDED THAT THE TIRES NOT BE ROTATED BECAUSE OF POOR TREAD. PRIOR TO THE FAILURE, BOTH REAR TIRES WERE REPLACED. THE TECHNICIAN ALSO INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE FAILURE WAS CONTRIBUTED TO THE SUSPENSION WHICH CAUSED THE TIRES TO PREMATURELY WEAR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000.