2010 Mazda Mazda6 Body & Structure Problems

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated while driving 40–45 MPH, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. The TPMS warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who informed the contact that the rear main sub frame was completely rusted. There was a crack detected in the middle of the sub frame. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the rear sub frame was rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer informed the contact that it was normal wear and tear, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the dashboard on the passenger’s side of the vehicle was melted, causing a glare on the windshield which obstructed the view of the contact while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer; however, the warranty had expired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 32,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle made abnormally loud sounds. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the rear cross members and brakes needed to be replaced. The dealer advised the contact to not drive the vehicle until the repairs were performed. The vehicle was then taken to an independent mechanic who replaced the brakes; however, the rear cross members were not replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 186,000.

PAINT IS CHIPPING AWAY ON THE REAR OF THE CAR.

THE PASSENGER LOWER CONTROL ARM BROKE WHILE DRIVING, AND I LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. I ALMOST HIT A CAR COMING TOWARDS, BUT THANKFULLY I WAS ABLE TO STOP SINCE I WAS ONLY DOING 35 MPH. I DON'T KNOW WHAT WOULD HAVE HAPPENED IF I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY. THE MECHANIC SAID THE SUB-FRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTED OUT AND IT WAS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE ANYMORE. APPARENTLY, THE A/C IS DRAINING RIGHT ONTO THE CONTROL ARM AREA, WHICH MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE AFFECTED THE SITUATION.

WHILE PERFORMING MAINTENANCE ON 2010 MAZDA 6 IT WAS OBSERVED THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION TO THE FRONT SUBFRAME. IT IS VERY NEAR STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND HAD THE FRAME FAILED WHILE DRIVING IT LIKELY WOULD HAVE RESULTED IN LACK OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. PICTURE IS ATTACHED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THEIR VEHICLE'S DASHBOARD WAS STICKY AND HAD AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF GLARE FROM SUNLIGHT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE GLARE MADE IT DIFFICULT TO SEE WHEN DRIVING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DASHBOARD WAS FRACTURED ON THE PASSENGER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT CONTACTED THE DEALER FITZGERALD MAZDA OF ANNAPOLIS (1930 WEST ST, ANNAPOLIS, MD 21401, (410) 266-5700) WHO INFORMED THE CONTACT THE DASHBOARD NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 57,000.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 70 MPH WHEN ALL OF THE SUDDEN THE CAR VEERED TO THE RIGHT CAUSING HER TO GO INTO THE RIGHT LANE AS SHE WAS IN THE LEFT LANE. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS BESIDE HER AND SHE WAS ABLE TO KEEP THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. SHE STOPPED AND CALLED ME AS I WAS AT WORK TO EXPLAIN WHAT HAD HAPPENED. SHE WAS JUST A FEW MILES AWAY FROM THE EXIT IN WHICH WE LIVE JUST OFF THE INTERSTATE SO SHE WAS ABLE TO LIMP THE CAR HOME. LATER THAT EVENING WHEN I WENT TO LOOK AT IT I NOTICED IMMEDIATELY THAT THE PASSENGER TIRE WAS POINTING OUTWARD A LITTLE BIT. I JACKED THE CAR UP LOOKING TO SEE IF A TIE ROD OR CONTROL ARM HAD BROKE ONLY TO FIND THAT NEITHER HAD BROKE. I LOOKED AT THE FRAME AND SEEN HOW BADLY IT WAS RUSTED AND NOTICED IT ACTUALLY HAD BROKEN APART AND WAS SHIFTED. THIS AREA OF THE SUBFRAME IS DIRECTLY UNDER THE A/C UNIT WHICH DRIPS STRAIGHT DOWN ONTO THE FRAME AREA THAT IS ROTTED. WHICH IS OBVIOUSLY THE REASON THE THE FRAME RUSTED AND BROKE AND SHIFTED CAUSING THE TIRE TO POINT OUTWARD. CALLED MAZDA AND THEY SENT A TOW TRUCK TO RETRIEVE THE CAR. CURRENTLY WAITING ON THEIR INSPECTION AND A CALL FROM MAZDA CORP TO SEE IF THEY WILL BE COVERING THE REPAIR. AFTER READING EVERYONE ELSE'S ISSUES WITH THIS VERY SAME PROBLEM I'M ASSUMING MAZDA WILL TELL ME IT'S OUR PROBLEM. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND I'VE SEEN OTHER'S WHO'S CAR ARE EVEN NEWER AND MAZDA IS TELLING EVERYONE IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE. I STRONGLY DISAGREE WITH IT NOT BEING A MANUFACTURED DEFECT WHEN CLEARING THE WATER FROM THE A/C DRIPPING DOWN IS CAUSING ALL THESE SUBFRAMES TO RUST MUCH FASTER THAN ANY OTHER PART OF THE FRAME. WE'LL SEE WHAT THEY SAY BUT I'M NOT HOLDING MY BREATH.... SEEMS AS THOUGH WE THE PEOPLE NEED TO BAND TOGETHER IN A CLASS ACTION AGAINST MAZDA BECAUSE THIS CLEARLY IS A PROBLEM FOR A LOT OF CONSUMERS. PRAY NO ONE EVER GETS KILLED DO TO LOSS OF CONTROL WHEN THE FRAMES DO BRK.

THE FRAME ON MY VEHICLE SPECIALLY THE 'CRADLE' ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FAILED WHILE BRAKING. SPECIFICALLY THE ''CRADLE' IS RUSTED AND SPLIT ALMOST ALL THE WAY THROUGH. THE VEHICLE IS NOW UNDRIVABLE. IT IS A SEVERE SAFETY RISK

ON AM OF 06/08/2018, I FELT SOMETHING GIVE IN FRONT END - FELT LIKE A BROKEN STRUT INITIALLY. DRIVING HOME AT 55-60 MPH THAT AFTERNOON, CAR BECAME NOTICEABLY DIFFICULT TO CONTROL - PULLING HARD TO THE RIGHT WHICH CAUSED AUDIBLE METALLIC SCRAPING NOISES FROM INSIDE CAR AND REQUIRED ME TO KEEP STEERING WHEEL TURNED LEFT AT 30-45 DEGREES IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN STRAIGHT LINE. CAR WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN OR KEEP UNDER CONTROL. MADE IT TO FAMILY MEMBER'S HOUSE NEAR MY MECHANIC, AND MADE ARRANGEMENTS TO DROP CAR OFF. ON 06/12/2018, MECHANIC CALLED TO INFORM ME THAT RIGHT FRONT SUBFRAME/ENGINE CRADLE WAS RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT THAT IT HAD CRACKED. HE WAS SHOCKED THAT IT DIDN'T FAIL CATASTROPHICALLY AT SPEED ON HIGHWAY. MAZDA DEALER ADVISED TO CALL MAZDA DIRECTLY TO FILE COMPLAINT. MECHANIC COULD NOT FIND A USED/SALVAGED CRADLE TO MAKE REPAIRS AND MAZDA DEALER INFORMED HIM THAT A CRADLE THEY ORDERED IN DECEMBER 2017 HAD JUST ARRIVED IN MAY 2018 - QUOTED PRICE TO REPAIR WAS ROUGHLY $1,600 PARTS/$1,000+ LABOR. CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AND HAS JUST SHY OF 84,000 MILES.

I'D LIKE TO REPORT MY OBSERVATION IN REGARDS TO THE FOLLOWING INVESTIGATION: PE18006 UPON PERFORMING ROUTINE MAINTENANCE I OBSERVED HEAVY CORROSION OF THE SUBFRAME OF MY VEHICLE HEAVILY CONCENTRATED TOWARDS THE REAR ENDS OF SAID SUBFRAME. THE DAMAGE IS LARGELY CONCENTRATED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE SUB FRAME BUT BOTH DRIVE AND PASSENGER SIDES ARE IN VARYING STATES OF CORROSION. I CAN CONTRIBUTE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION UPON REQUEST BUT I WANTED TO ADD TO THE ON-GOING INVESTIGATION THAT HEAVY CORROSION TO THE POINT OF ME QUESTIONING THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF SAID SUBFRAME IS FOR SURE AN ISSUE I'M EXPERIENCING. I HAVE NOT CHECKED THE WELDS TO THE VARIOUS SUSPENSION COMPONENTS ATTACHED TO SUB FRAME BUT THE PINCH WELDS ALONG THE INTERIOR EDGE OF THE SUB FRAME HAVE BEEN COMPROMISED ALLOWING THE INGRESS OF ADDITIONAL WATER WHICH I BELIEVE IS ACCELERATING THIS ISSUE. THE WHOLE LOWER SURFACE OF THE SUB FRAME TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE SUB FRAME HAS BEGUN CORRODING AS WELL AND THE PAINT COVERING THE SUB FRAME HAS BUBBLED UP OR SEPARATED ALONG THE EDGE OF THE CORROSION.

ON WEDNESDAY, MAY 24TH THE SUB-FRAME OF THIS CAR BROKE WHILE MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING IT. WE DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME THAT IT WAS THE SUBFRAME. ALL WE KNEW WAS THAT THERE WAS NO CONTROL OF THE CAR AS IT WAS BEING DRIVEN. AS WE WERE LEAVING TOWN THE NEXT DAY, WE DROPPED IT AT OUR REGULAR REPLACE PLACE. WHILE WE WERE OUT OF TOWN, THEY REPAIRED THE CAR. WHILE WE WERE OUT OF TOWN, WE WERE IN CONTACT WITH THE REPAIR PEOPLE. THEY ORDERED AND REPLACED THE PART. IN FURTHER DISCUSSION, THEY WERE SURPRISED THAT AN 8 YEAR OLD CAR, THAT HAS BEEN MAINTAINED REGULARLY AND ONLY HAS 85000 MILES ON, HAD SUCH A SUBSTANTIVE FAILURE. THE SUBFRAME CRACKED WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY, WHILE DRIVING.

NOTHING HAS HAPPENED YET. THERE ARE TWO RECALLS BUT NO ONE HAS CONTACTED ME ABOUT THEM.

DOOR LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS GONE AND NOT ALLOWING TO ENGAGE WITH THE LATCH MECHANISM. DOOR WILL NOT CLOSE SHUT. DOOR OPENED WHILE VEHICLE IN MOTION. KNOWN RECALL NO. 7013I

DASHBOARD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE START HAVING CRACKS PLUS STICKY AREAS

THE DASHBOARD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE IS MELTING AND STICKY TO TOUCH. THE REFLECTION FROM THE MELTING MAKES IT DIFFICULT TO SEE OUT THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND HAD PICTURES TAKEN OF THE PROBLEM. ALL THEY SAID TO WAIT FOR A LETTER AND THE PART IS NOT IN. IT HAS BEEN 7 MONTHS SINCE I FIRST REPORTED IT.

THE DASHBOARD IS MELTING. THE DASHBOARD ON THE PASSENGER STARTED TO LOOK SHINY. WE TOOK A CLOTHE TO WIPE IT OFF AND THE DASHBOARD IS STICKY AND ACTUALLY PEELED AND RIPPED WHEN WE TRIED TO WIPE IT. THE CONDITIONING IS SPREADING AND IS VERY STICKY. AT CERTAIN TIMES OF DAY THE GLARE FROM THE SHINEY DASHBOARD REFLECTS OFF THE WINDSHIELD MAKING IT VERY DIFFICULT TO SEE OUT THE WINDSHIELD.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DASHBOARD MATERIAL WAS DEFECTIVE. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE DASHBOARD WAS STICKY AND MELTED NEAR THE FRONT PASSENGER AIR BAG AREA. THE DASHBOARD WAS NOT REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,000.

DASH CRASH PAD IS MELTING, CAUSING A GLARE AND POOR VISIBILITY ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD. THE DASH IS TURNING INTO A LIQUID AND RUNNING DOWN THE DASH. ALSO SMELLS LIKE IT IS "OFF GASSING."

THE DASHBOARD HAS BEGUN TO MELT FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT. NOT ONLY IS IT STICKY TO THE TOUCH, BUT IT HAS BECOME VERY REFLECTIVE WHICH AT TIMES CAN REFLECT & OBSCURE YOU VISION WHEN DRIVING. THIS IS CLEARLY A DRIVING HAZARD, AND IT IS VERY UNPROFESSIONAL FOR MAZDA NOT TO HELP IN THE MANNER. I CONTACTED MAZDA, THEY PROCEED TO ADVICE THAT MY WARRANTY HAD EXPIRED ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO AND THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. THEY SUGGESTED THAT I TAKE IT TO AN AUTHORIZED MAZDA DEALER FOR AN INSPECTION. FROM THERE I WAS TO CONTACT THEIR CLAIMS DEPARTMENT (18002225500) TO SEE IF THEY COULD HELP WITH THE COST OF THE REPAIR AS PART OF AN AFTER WARRANTY AID. *TR