2018 Nissan Leaf Complaint Log

This vehicle is equipped with a feature known as "e-pedal" also known as one-pedal driving which is quite common on EVs. When this mode is activated, the accelerator pedal acts as a speed command (vs. power) and when the pedal is not depressed, the vehicle applies brakes until it comes to a standstill. Recently, the system has demonstrated a fault condition, where the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) issues a fault warning and disengages the e-pedal mode. This appears to occur randomly after the vehicle has been at a standstill for over one minute (e.g. waiting at a traffic signal) where the driver is using the one-pedal system vs. continuously applying pressure to the brake pedal. The safety issue is that when the system detects a fault and disengages e-pedal, the vehicle starts to move forward, requiring the driver to take immediate action to stop unwanted motion. This can lead to a collision with a vehicle or pedestrian in front of the vehicle. The desired behavior is that when the VCM detects a fault with the e-pedal system, it should engage the Park mode and prevent the vehicle from moving forward. The driver must then depress the brake pedal and affirmatively command the Drive mode before moving. Just disengaging the e-pedal (brake) without prior warning of a fault is a safety hazard.

On 1/6/2026, as I slowed down as I was turning into my parking lot. I had Eco and e-pedal ON for regenerative braking. As I was turning into the parking lot, the car suddenly accelerated, went over the curb, across the street, over another curb before finally stopping after colliding with a structure. I was driving slowly and distinctively recall braking. This sudden unintended acceleration put safety at risk and caused significant property damage. There were no warning signs or messages. The car is in the yard now and will be available for inspection.

I was traveling north on Freeway 57 at approximately 70mph. The dash lit up red with 12v and charging warnings. Power was shut off and car went into Neutral and warned me to pull over. This is an incredibly busy freeway and I was in the far left lane. I barely made it to the shoulder coasting before car started shuttering and jerking and stopped rolling. I could have been killed.

Vehicle failed inspection due to a rusted out front subframe which seems premature for a 7 year old vehicle with 27,599 miles on it. According to local mechanic, they've seen this issue with many Nissan Leaf models. This is a critical piece of the vehicle hence it failing inspection due to rust. The vehicle has not (yet) been inspected by the local dealership to confirm the issue and there were no warning symptoms prior to it failing inspection.

The front windshield wipers on this car fail in light ice or snow. They've broken every winter I've owned this car (four years). This results in me driving around without front windshield wipers until I can get it fixed, watching the weather forecast and hoping I don't get caught in rain or snow. It happens despite my best efforts not to use the wipers in freezing weather unless absolutely necessary, going so far as to drive in light snow or rain without wipers to avoid breaking them. I've fixed it myself (not easy, especially in winter weather) and paid a mechanic to fix it for me at least three times. Most recently, the mechanic replaced the entire motor and linkage assembly which was extra expensive, but the right wiper broke again this Thanksgiving. (Until this last time, both wipers have always broken together.)

After four years of owning this vehicle purchased new, the passenger side seatbelt warning light came on the dash. It indicated the seatbelt was not buckled while no one was sitting in the passenger seat. When buckled the light went out. Brought it to the attention of Nissan, Service every year when they would clear the code and it would be good for a month or two, and the light would come back on like before. Last month on May 9, I brought the vehicle in again and asked for a thorough assessment. Nissan service said to make the light go out they would have to replace two passenger side occupancy sensors, totaling $1800 parts and labor. They did not have the parts on hand, I left with the vehicle only to find out that the intermittent seatbelt light that would go out when buckled, stayed on continuous now. Also noticed the illuminated airbag light stating the airbag was off. And that was also on at all times whether someone was in the passenger seat or not. When purchasing the vehicle new we also purchased a gold preferred extended warranty, that I believed would cover these parts. But Nissan, consumer affair said the the warranty will not cover those items. After a month of trying to get Nissan, service and consumer affairs to work with me, still no help. Searching online I found Nissan, has had numerous issues and even some recalls with occupancy sensors in the seats of many vehicles. It seems to be an ongoing issue with Nissan, regarding earlier model vehicles and newer models. Thank you for your time and your help.

On [XXX], I was slowly pulling into my driveway, took my foot off the accelerator and turned the steering wheel slightly to the right as the driveway is L shaped. Suddenly, the car sped up towards the garage door. I looked down quickly to see if I’d somehow pressed the accelerator by accident but I had not. I slammed on the brakes as hard as I could but the car kept going and smashed into the garage door and the corner of the garage, causing close to $20k in property damage. The hood and front bumper were badly caved in at the point of impact and pieces of the undercarriage were on the ground. The air smelled like rubber and there were tire marks on the driveway here I had slammed on the brakes. The airbags did not deploy. The Automatic Braking System did not work. There were no warning messages or lamps. The only unusual symptom that I noticed was that on my way home from Kona, when I was pulling up slowly to a traffic light, the car seemed to hesitate a couple of times, which seemed odd but not severe enough for me to be concerned about a wreck. That occurred about a half hour before the incident. I was not physically injured but I have been very shook up and depressed since the incident. If this had happened on the highway, I could have been killed and the car could have killed others on the road. I reported the collision to USAA immediately and, on their advice, I had it towed to Kona Nissan, the dealership where I purchased the vehicle and where I have had it serviced. The expectation was that they would perform diagnostics on the vehicle but they won’t touch it, nor will they talk to USAA. I had taken the car in when it was recalled for the VCM issues and I don’t believe it was fixed properly. Or the repair wasn’t effective. The car is at Gerber Body Shop in Kona, Hawaii. Please arrange inspection with them. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

After hard acceleration then releasing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle does not slow as expected and, at times, will actually continue to accelerate. The vehicle will slow as expected when the brake is applied, but will again gradually accelerate when the brake is released. If slowed to a stop, the vehicle may begin to accelerate once the brake is released. This issue does not occur after normal acceleration. The issue may be related to NHTSA Recall Number 23V-494, which repairs have not been addressed for the subject vehicle, although the issue occurs regardless of the state or change-of-state of the e-pedal switch or cruise control function, both of which are mentioned in that recall. This issue has occurred on multiple occasions in the time that I have owned the car (approx 13 months.) There is no correlation with weather conditions or initial or final speed. The only consistent variable is rate of acceleration.

The contact owns a 2018 Nissan Leaf. The contact stated that after his wife had parked in a parking garage, the vehicle was restarted and driven in 17-degree Fahrenheit weather when the vehicle lost motive power. The "Service EV System, No Power" message was displayed. The contact's wife pulled over and had the vehicle towed to the dealer. The contact stated that the battery had previously been replaced. The dealer determined that the failure was caused by a frozen battery. After the battery had thawed, the battery was able to be recharged. No repair was recommended. The contact related the failure to the variable voltage control system and the 12-Volt battery amp-hours (Ah). The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a case was opened. The failure mileage was approximately 79,545.

Vehicle randomly shuts down when car is underload traveling at highway speed up an incline and with the climate on. Diagnostics are showing multiple cells that are bad in the main battery manufacturer is stating that it is normal wear and it is normal. I’ve only had the car for 300 miles. It was a previously owned car that was supposed to carry an eight year warranty on the drivetrain and battery. They are not honoring the warranty and the vehicle is dangerous to drive and in fact cannot be driven the situation occurred on three occasions where the vehicle just randomly shuts down on the freeway in the middle of the highway. This is a serious concern that will definitely cause injury or death. I attached photos of two occasions when the battery discharged almost immediately, and the one photo shows on the vehicle was completely disabled. I have more supportive photographs and computer printouts from diagnostics if requested..

The Power Distribution Module failed in my 2018 Nissan Leaf at 77k miles. It left me stranded with no way of getting home. The Power Distribution Module is supposed to last 10 years 100k miles but Nissan warranty only has is warranted to 60k miles. The dealership said the PDM only lasts around 70k miles however it is $5k to fix which is half of what the car is worth. They are unwilling to do a good faith repair because I didn’t service the car with their dealership even though I only serviced it at Nissan dealerships for the life of the car. This seems like really bad business to put a part in the car that the dealership knows will go bad at 70k miles but only warranty it up to 60k miles when it is a major electrical component to the vehicle and is over the half the value of the vehicle to fix. On top of the PDM there are other codes that the vehicle has that relate to the master brake cylinder but the dealership said they won’t know if there are more issues until I pay the 5 k to fix the PDM then they can assess if I have to pay another 5k to fix the other part. I drove the car very safely and treated it very well for the whole time I’ve had the vehicle. I’ve read of multiple other PDM issues with Nissan leaf and I’m curious how this part is not recalled?

I did not have an incident(accident), I noticed issues with my car, that seem to be prevalent with other Nissan Vehicles. This report is mostly proactive. I took the vehicle to the dealer for inspection and repair however was unable to come to a conclusion due to multiple inspection charges done by dealer but no fixes. Issue 1. Airbag Fault Warning Light on the dash. Turns on when I start the car, and stays. I took car to dealer and they have done a computer reset to reset the light (based on an internal Nissan bulletin on how to repair that issue, with mention in the repair notes that a lot of vehicles have that issue.) The reset didnt work and the light is back, now the dealer is saying that a whole sensor needs replacing as its prone to failure. Initial repair mentioned "code B00A0 stored for occupant detection system, but will not relearn." Zero Point Relearn will not complete. Referred to NTB19-071D... Ran the 75H Reset, code clears." Secondary repair: 'B00A0 Returned. Performed database search and found similar cases. Nissan recommends OSC and sensor replacement. Performed Bulletin again and error code is now 24H, not 75H. Zero point will not relearn. Started a case with Nissan and was advised to replace ...[OCS]... and strain sensors..." Issue 2: Loud clanking or grinding noise when turning vehicle left or right until wheel stops. Went to get this repaired and was told that dealer found bulletin 12-055J and will "need to replace axle nuts and apply Molykote." Paid for repair, and after picking up the car the sound is even worse, and upon bringing it back the dealer is saying that the noise is not due to past repair but vehicle will now need "Both front Strut mounts and bearings replaced." The sound is the same, and a cursory online search shows that this issue is prevalent across multiple vehicles. Also, recently when attempting a U-turn, the steering locked up momentarily when I was trying to straighten out the vehicle, with that noise (clunk sound)

Car was descending towards Kailua on the [XXX] on Oahu, HI. Dash lit up with warnings and acceleration and brake pedals stopped working. Brake pedal went to the floor with erratic pulsing sensation and very little brake power. Driver drove car into jersey wall to slow and stop vehicle. Battery state was 60% and battery was replaced under warranty about 1 year ago. While waiting for tow, powered on vehicle and symptoms remained as far as I could check. Brakes had no power and had to use ebrake to keep vehicle from rolling. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The incident occurred at a stop sign where I was waiting behind one other vehicle. The vehicle ahead of me accelerated from the stop sign to turn into traffic, but abruptly slammed on their brakes. I had began accelerating up to the stop sign and was unable to stop before impacting the car in front of me. As soon as I saw the vehicle was braking, I immediately slammed on the brake pedal. Braking did not immediately occur. My wife said she was afraid that I had slammed the gas pedal because she could hear my foot hit the brake pedal and neither of us felt any braking. The Nissan Leaf was in Eco Mode and ePedal at the time of the incident. I believe that the transition from regenerative braking to mechanical braking delayed the stopping of my vehicle. We were lucky that this happened in a very low consequence situation, but if this happened with a pedestrian or at a higher speed where emergency braking is required, this delay in braking could be dire. In addition, this vehicle is equipped with automatic emergency braking. I have heard this feature go off before in this specific car when a car is braking faster than I am. In this case, the alarm and assisted braking did not go off, despite a car stopping within extremely close proximity.

The contact owns a 2018 Nissan Leaf. The contact stated while driving 55 MPH, there was a rapid battery discharge. There was no warning lights illuminated. The local dealer was contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and opened a case. The failure mileage was approximately 53,000.

I was traveling home from work at approximately 60MPH (speed limit) and I experienced a rapid drop in the state of charge from ~60% to ~25% in 15-20 seconds. I slowed the vehicle to 55MPH and it recovered most of the state of charge. When accelerating to 60MPH a few miles later I experience the same behavior and was forced to maintain 55MPH. I was forced to turn off the electric cabin heater, heated seats, and heated steering wheel as well. I have been able to recreate the issue if the battery is: cold (outside temperature less than 15F and the vehicle has been outside for 8+ hours), less than 60% charged, and put under high load (going up a steep grade/60MPH+) the vehicle will register a battery discharge rate of ~5%/second and continue until the vehicle puts itself into turtle mode, the load is reduced, or I assume, shut off. Battery discharge is "phantom" where the vehicle, when under less load (i.e. slower/slowing), will return to a higher charge, and when no load (i.e. stopped), will return to close to the original charge. Depending on how long the high load is maintained it can drastically reduce the real state of charge on the battery. The Nissan dealership identified it as at least one bad battery module, but no fault codes were registered by the vehicle outside of experiencing turtle mode. This issue forces the driver to slow down to reduce load on the vehicle and abrupt speed changes may be required to keep the vehicle operational. This can put the driver into a dangerous situation of being forced to slow down regardless of road conditions or other driver behaviors. If all of the conditions for the battery listed in the first sentence are met, the vehicle will register a rapid battery state of charge decline, it may indicate turtle mode is active (helps reduce battery load), and it will indicate low charge around 10% state of charge. I have personally experienced all of this as the driver, and any assumptions I have made I have identified.

Enel X Way recently announced that they were terminating operations in North America. With that in mind my Juicebox level 2 charger now becomes a dumb charger with no app functionality to turn down the amps produced by the charger. The Juicebox model I have is a plug-in version rated at 32 amps max. My service panel/circuit breaker is only rated to 30 amps. With a constant 32 amps on a 30 amp circuit breaker there is a potential to start a fire at the plug socket end and/or the breaker end, at the very least the breaker might trip every time I charge. For fear of that happening, I'm reluctant to even use it. I'm filing an issue/complaint here because in recent days there have been others who have complained about Enel X Way shutting down and causing problems similar to mine according to an article I read at [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Twice now - both times on the South Bound Richmond Bridge, the Automatic Emergency Braking lights came on and slammed on my brakes for me, as if I was about to crash when I was going 65 mils per hour, no one in front or behind me and no traffic, accident or reason. I almost lost control of the vehicle and would have caused an accident had anyone been closer to me.

I was driving at 65 MPH on the freeway and the car was acting/driving normally. Without any warning at all, many lights appeared on the dashboard at the same time that the car placed itself into neutral and lost all power to drive. My speed was reduced so quickly without any notice and I had no pull out lane near me, so I was forced to move across 5 lanes of traffic in rush hour speeds of 60-85 MPH traffic in order to get to safety in a pull out lane while my car was quickly losing speed at 30 MPH and below. I tried to put the car back into drive but it was impossible and the dashboard read "EV maintenance needed". Of note, my entire battery was replaced less than 6 months prior and the Nissan Peoria (AZ) dealership reported no other issues with the vehicle. Upon inspection, the dealership reported the traction motor inverter needs replacement, and again there were no indications this was failing.

Our 2018 Nissan Leaf experienced an error message when we tried to start it saying "Warning Service EV System No Power". Mileage: 29,862. It would go into neutral, but not into drive. We called GEICO to have it towed to dealership Leith Nissan on [XXX]. On [XXX], John Day from Leith Nissan called to request permission to install a new 12V battery. I approved the cost of replacing the battery. They said that they were able to drive the car after the 12V battery was replaced. But then they plugged it into the charger, and got an error message "EV System No Power", and they couldn't drive it anymore. Sometime after that there was a thermal event that caused the Power Distribution Module to explode and for soot to pour out of it. These incidents are described by the technician Ryan in these videos [XXX] Nissan indicated that the electric power train is no longer under warranty. Our Q:When did you receive the car? ([XXX] repair order opened [XXX]) When did you first start working on the car? [XXX] When did the thermal event occur? (unsure of occurrence date) When did you replace the 12 volt battery? [XXX] when were you told to replace the high voltage battery? [XXX] when did you replace the high voltage battery? [XXX] Is the replacement high voltage battery a new battery or a used battery? (new battery) Has the replacement high voltage battery been maintained at a charge or is it at 0% charge? And what charge is it at now? (SOC unknown at this time) when were you told the pdm needed to be replaced? ([XXX] after HV battery was installed and further diag was performed) When did you replace the pdm? (not yet completed -- were in process but stopped due to BUS bar bolt discovery) Vehicle was left unattended with no HV warnings with service plug removed but inside vehicle with no cover over port to HV battery. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

When I was drivimg on the highway, the battery rapidly plummeted from 50% to 5%. The car urged me to pull over. After pulling over, the battery rose back up to 50%. If I had not pulled over, the car would have entered "turtle mode," which limits the motor's power and can reduce the car's top speed to below 20mph. These low speeds are especially dangerous on interstate highways and could pose a crash risk.

Front passenger seat occupancy sensor has failed resulting in an illuminated seat belt warning even when the front passenger seat is unoccupied. Workaround is either to clip the seatbelt in all the time or put a black piece of tape over the warning light. Either workaround degrades safety as the intended operation of the warning light is bypassed.

I was pulling slowly into a parking spot. The vehicle accelerated all of a sudden on its own very fast. I slammed on the brakes and the vehicle did not stop. It ran us on a sidewalk and crashed into a pole. Luckily no one hurt. Progressive is calling the car a total loss, but they have done nothing The car is still at a parking lot near the crash. Nissan is also doing nothing. I feel that I deserve better treatment. I have a good driving record and my rates are going to go up. I have not been offered a replacement car. The car is very dangerous and I would never drive another Nissan

The contact owns a 2018 Nissan Leaf. The contact stated that while parking the vehicle at low speeds, the vehicle suddenly accelerated on its own. As a result, the vehicle jumped the wheel stop, coming to a complete stop after colliding with a tree. The air bags did not deploy. A police report was filed, and no injuries were reported. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who did not provide a specific diagnosis but advised the contact that a BCM reprogramming was required. The vehicle was repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related it to NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V494000 (Vehicle Speed Control), but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 12,300.

The malfunction warning light came on to indicate that the automatic braking system was not working. I brought the car to the dealership, which quoted me $1900 for a new sensor. I have read about accidents and near collisions due to the malfunctioning of this system and am now worried that there might be sudden braking that others have experienced. I would like to get this system fixed, but do not believe consumes should need to pay $2000 to repair a defective system.

Vehicle would rapidly suffer from a high energy drain when driving at freeway speeds. Range was reduces from 150 miles EPA, to 80-100 miles. Nissan at first said it was due to the high temperature in Arizona. A few weeks later a "Service EV System" lamp came on, and car would not start the next day after charging overnight. Car stated it was at %80 state of charge at the time. Car was towed to a Nissan service center, and Nissan service determined that some battery modules had bloated battery cells due to overheating after a week of troubleshooting. High voltage battery was replaced under warranty 3 weeks later.

I was stopped at a light, in a long line of cars, my foot on the brake, a few feet away from the car in front of me, and the same in back. All of a sudden, the car started moving, accelerating, jerking forward. I was shocked, pushed down on the brake, nothing happened. starting pulling the car out of line because I was going to hit the car in front of me. I was pumping the brake, and NOTHING HAPPENED. Clipped the car in front's rear left bumper, wrecked my front right bumper. Finally pulled into the turn lane and finally the brakes caught. It was like someone had taken a gizmo and turned on my car (like the OnStar mess a few years ago.). Nothing like this has ever happened to me, in any car, including this one, until 5/12 at 2:00 pm. It was terrifying.

On may 12, I was in a long line of cars at a red light , stopped. all of a sudden my car started moving and accelerating toward the car in front of me. When I got over the initial shock, I started stamping on the brake (2-3x) and nothing happened. I clipped the other car as I yanked the car out of line into the turn lane. I turned off the car and shook. Then I handled the insurance stuff with the other guy. I did NOT take my foot off the brake. (I reported this incident to the NTSB, BTW.) I wanted the collision center and Nissan to look at the black box, but the garage didn't and Nissan said that was no black box.

Plastic/metal from steering wheel become dislodged/detached/warped, caused major laceration to my right ring finger when making left turn 5/6/23 4PM. Went to urgent care as a result, had to get tetanus shot.

Hello NHTSA: I purchased a 2018 Nissan Leaf from Carvana on December 29, 2022. Within a short period of time the car experienced seat belt and air bag warning lights. The car was repaired under factory warranty by HGreg Nissan in Cutler Bay Florida but continued to display warning lights. The satellite communications system was not able to be repaired. This failure deactivated certain convenience and safety features. On March 16, 2023 a warning message and display indicated there was a high voltage battery malfunction and the car needed to be repaired by the dealer, On March 20, 2023 the car was taken to the dealer. The dealer informed me that the car was unsafe to drive and would not, nor did they ever, return the car to me [with the exception of a one-week test drive that did not correct the reported issues]. On August 3, 2023 Nissan North America declared in writing that the car was a Lemon under Florida law. Nissan refunded the purchase price of the car. Both Carvana and Nissan North America have refused to fully compensate me for certain incidental expenses including auto insurance [required to kept active until title transfer] and unused monthly prepaid Carvana maintenance costs. These fees were assessed from March 20, 2023 until August of 2023. During a discussion with Nissan North America their agent disclosed that they intended to wholesale this car. My immediate concern is that a Lemon-declared car should be disclosed if it is even allowed to be resold.

The contact owns a 2018 Nissan Leaf. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60-65 MPH uphill, the vehicle went into protective safe mode due to a faulty signal, and would no longer exceed 20-25 MPH. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who informed the contact that it was a known failure that occurred in cold weather. The contact stated that the failure reoccurred several times. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 38,225.

The PTC Heater and A/C compressor failed on my 2018 Nissan Leaf, just as the winter of 2022 was getting started. The vehicle passed prior service inspections, with no mention of issues on either of these components. The failure of the PTC heater and A/C compressor results in a "Service EV System" error message, and indication that the vehicle would not restart after powering off. When this error message appeared, the heating and defrost capabilities of the vehicle were lost. The fans would continue to blow air, but windows would fog up. I could not charge my vehicle in this error state either, so if I hadn't been close to home, I would've been in a potentially dangerous situation because it was cold out. The local Nissan dealership confirmed the error codes of P0AA6-1A (HV battery voltage system isolation) and P31E7 (restart inhibition) were present. They initially fixed this issue after nearly 5 months of the vehicle being in their shop. These codes, paired with the information I've read on the Internet, indicates others have had this issue before, and the normal repair involved replacing the traction battery (400v high-voltage battery), not these two components. The "Service EV System" came back less than 36 hours after paying for the repair. The 12v battery was also at a low voltage, which may have been related to the vehicle sitting for so long for service without being charged.

Around 45 degree weather, while driving on the freeway, my electric battery mileage started to fluctuate erratically (73% to 8% to 14% back to 70% and finally to 60%). It gave me low battery warnings two separate times. At the same time this happened, a warning light indicating the AEB had been turned off started flashing on my dashboard without any collision, jerky movements, sudden stops, or changes to settings. This is extremely concerning because of the car immediately brakes or if the battery dies on the freeway, it could cause a major collision.

Around 45 degree weather, while driving on the freeway, a warning light indicating the AEB had been turned off started flashing on my dashboard without any collision, jerky movements, sudden stops, or changes to settings. At the same time this happened, my electric battery mileage started to fluctuate erratically (73% to 8% to 14% back to 70% and finally to 60%). This is extremely concerning because of the car immediately brakes or if the battery dies on the freeway, it could cause a major collision.

When the vehicle is booting up after pressing the power on button you can try to shift from P to R or D. It is very easy to do this too soon. Instead of staying in P or shifting to the desired gear it shifts to N. You can then shift to R or D without using the brake pedal. Normally you would think this is no big deal. The problem is if you are on a hill and expect to move in reverse you end up rolling forward and vice versa. This happens a lot, because I am impatient. It has not caused an issue for me yet, but I can foresee something happening from a minor collision to something horrible where a child is run over or injured. I brought it to the attention of my local dealer before my warranty expired and they said all of the Leaf vehicles do this. How does Nissan think this is acceptable? How does a dealership not report this after they are made aware of such an issue? This has been the case since I have had the vehicle since late 2018. I keep meaning to report it. I hope this has not caused any injuries.

There is a faulty passenger airbag sensor. I see that this has been an issue in the past for older Nissan models. The dealer has inspected it and confirmed the problem. If there is no passenger in the front seat, the supplemental airbag warning light and the front passenger airbag status light stay on. If there is a passenger, the supplemental airbag warning light will turn off, but the front passenger airbag status light stays on.

While driving on the highway with a full battery charge, the vehicle battery was suddenly depleted, the car entered "turtle mode" (a reduced motor power at low charge feature), and then turned off completely moments later. This is a huge safety issue as it leaves you to coast to a stop without the benefit of power brakes or steering. This is caused by a weak cell in the high voltage battery, an issue Nissan is aware of but has chosen not to address. Currently I have no other option but to continue driving the car as is, with the risk of an accident in a situation like this continually increasing.

AEB system malfunction around 25000 miles. Dealer diagnose as the front radar failed and cause the cruise control not available.

Steering wheel paint chipping causes multiple lacerations on finger during turn

2 incidents have occurred with this vehicle. The first earlier this year (2021) is that upon slowly accelerating to move closer to vehicle that moved up in a turn lane, the automatic emergency brake system engaged, abruptly stopped the vehicle and many lights lit up across the dashboard. The brakes then released and all lights on the dashboard disappeared. I was not close enough to the car ahead or at any rate of speed that should have caused this abrupt brake reaction. The 2nd incident and most dangerous happened on 8/13/21. I was slowly reversing out of a parking spot at a crowded location, when I saw a car behind my vehicle. I went to brake (not hard brake just regular), and the brakes did not work. I continued to slowly roll back towards the car behind me. I tried pressing the brakes repeatedly and it would not stop rolling backwards. I then pulled the emergency brake and the car came to a stop. No lights appeared on the dashboard. I turned the car off and powered it on again and slowly moved forward into the parking space and tried reversing again. The car was driving completely fine just after. I had a short trip home & didn't drive the rest of the evening. I didn't charge the car as there was still 85% left on the battery. The next morning, the car would not start and a message showing "Service EV System No Power" appeared on the dashboard with multiple lights lit. I called a tow truck to take it to the dealer and they found that the 12v battery was completely dead. Battery light not lit on dashboard prior to the complete outage. The dealer said it was the 12v battery that was likely the cause of these incidents and they replaced it. The brake issues could not be reproduced at the dealer after the new battery installed. Also note, that I just had the vehicle in for a multi-point inspection in June where nothing was found to be faulty. They did recommend a brake fluid exchange, so this was done as well as tire rotation.

I WAS DRIVING ALONE AT 4:20PM AT ABOUT 30 MPH, WITH NO OTHER CARS OR PEDESTRIANS AROUND WHEN THE BRAKES SUDDENLY ACTIVATED, AND THE ACCELERATOR WENT TO IDLE. THE BRAKING LASTED ABOUT ONE SECOND AND DID NOT STOP THE CAR COMPLETELY. THIS OCCURRED ON A CITY STREET. THESE EVENTS HAVE BEEN HAPPENING SEVERAL TIMES A MONTH.

FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR STARTED SAGGING AGAIN, SAME ISSUE AS PREVIOUSLY REPORTED UNDER # 11308649. TAKEN TO THE DEALER TODAY, THEY ADJUSTED THE "DOOR STRIKER". AS REPORTER PREVIOUSLY, THERE MAYBE A STRUCTURAL ISSUE WITH THE DOOR STRIKER BEING TOO FRAGILE OR TOO THIN.

WAS DRIVING AT APPROX. 30 MPH ALONE ON A LOCAL HIGHWAY WITH NO TRAFFIC AROUND, NO PEDESTRIANS OR OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE ROAD, WHEN THE ACCELERATOR DISENGAGED AND THE BRAKES CAME ON. THE BRAKING ONLY LASTED ABOUT ONE TO TWO SECONDS AND DID NOT STOP THE CAR. A TRIANGULAR WARNING SIGN APPEARED ON THE DASH DURING THE BRAKING, AND WENT OFF WHEN THE BRAKES RELEASED. I BELIEVE THE PROBLEM IS A MALFUNCTION OF THE FORWARD COLLISION WARNING SYSTEM.

BACKUP CAMERA PERIODICALLY FAILS TO PRODUCE FEED, RESULTING IN BLACK SCREEN WHEN VEHICLE IS IN REVERSE (THOUGH BACKUP TURN GUIDANCE LINES STILL APPEAR). SLAMMING TRUNK DOOR OR PRESSING ON THE CAMERA MODULE ITSELF SOMETIMES RESOLVES ISSUE BUT CAN ONLY BE DONE FROM OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE AND DOES NOT ALWAYS FIX THE ISSUE. THIS IS SEPARATE FROM THE EXISTING RECALL IN REGARDS TO THE SOFTWARE ISSUE. DEALERSHIP HAS INSPECTED VEHICLE AND NOT FOUND ANY WIRING ISSUES AND NOTED THAT THIS IS NOT RELATED TO THE SOFTWARE ISSUE IN THE EXISTING RECALL. CANNOT RELIABLY REPRODUCE BUT SEEMS TO OCCUR ROUGHLY ONCE A MONTH OR MORE OFTEN. POSSIBLY OCCURS FROM OPENING AND CLOSING TRUNK DOOR THOUGH ISSUE IS NOT NOTICED UNTIL NEXT TIME THE CAR IS OPERATED AND PUT IN REVERSE. TURNING VEHICLE OFF AND THEN BACK ON DOES NOT RESOLVE ISSUE. BACKUP CAMERA TURN GUIDANCE LINES CONTINUE TO APPEAR EVEN IF NO BACKUP CAMERA FEED APPEARS (BLACK SCREEN) WHICH SEEMS TO INDICATE AN ISSUE WITH THE CAMERA MODULE ITSELF RATHER THAN THE DISPLAY MODULE OR SOFTWARE. THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE SINCE THE FIRST YEAR OF VEHICLE OWNERSHIP BUT HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIX/DIAGNOSE AS IT HAS NOT OCCURRED WHILE AT DEALERSHIP OR OTHER REPAIR FACILITY. *TR

ON FRIDAY, 02/07/2020, THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR NO LONGER CLOSED CORRECTLY ON THIS CAR. THE CAR WAS TAKEN TO A NISSAN DEALER WHERE AN "ADJUSTMENT" WAS MADE. LATER THAT DAY, THE DOOR WOULD NO LONGER CLOSE AGAIN. ON MONDAY, 02/10/2020 THE CAR WAS TAKEN TO A NISSAN DEALER, AND ANOTHER ADJUSTMENT WAS MADE. THE DEALER ADVISED THAT "NO WEIGHT" SHOULD BE PUT ON THE DOOR EVEN THOUGH THIS HASN'T BEEN AN ISSUE BEFORE. I BELIEVE THAT THERE MAYBE A MANUFACTURING DEFECT INHERENT IN THE HINGING MECHANISM OF THIS MODEL WHICH LEADS TO GRADUAL WEAKENING OF THE HINGE LEADING TO A DOOR NOT BEING ABLE TO CLOSE PROPERLY. THIS MAY BE RELATED TO AN EXISTING NHTSA ID # 10143486 (NTB18-042).

THIS HAS OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES THROUGHOUT MY ALMOST TWO YEARS OF OWNERSHIP. THE NISSAN LEAF 2018 HAS A MODE CALLED "E-PETAL" THAT ALLOWS THE DRIVER TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE USING ONLY THE GAS PETAL. THE ISSUE I HAVE WITH MY CAR IS WHEN I AM IN A PARKING LOT TURNING MY STEERING WHEEL AS FAR TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT AS IT WILL GO TO NAVIGATE INTO THE PARKING SPACE, MY CAR WILL SUDDENLY STOP BRAKING CAUSING MY CAR TO RUSH FORWARD. I HAVE NEVER BEEN HURT, BUT THE SUDDEN SPEED INCREASE WHILE MAKING A HARD TURN WIPES MY CAR AND HAS CAUSED ME TO ALMOST HIT PARKED CARS. THE "E-PETAL" SHOULD CAUSE THE CAR TO BRAKE WHEN THE GAS PETAL IS DEPRESSED, BUT IT SEEMS TO DISENGAGE ENTIRELY WHEN I DO AS STATED ABOVE. I DON'T SEE ANY REASON TURNING THE WHEEL A CERTAIN WAY SHOULD CAUSE THE "E-PETAL" TO DISENGAGE. I DIDN'T KNOW IF I SHOULD REPORT THIS, BUT IT SEEMS LIKE I COULD REALLY HURT SOMEONE IF THIS HAPPENED WITH PEDESTRIANS AROUND. I AM UNSURE ABOUT THE EXACT MILEAGE, DATE, AND SPEED WHEN THE INDECENT OCCURRED BUT IT HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES.

THIS NISSAN LEAF HAS AN EZ-PEDAL FEATURE. WHEN ENABLED, TAKING YOUR FOOT OFF THE ACCELERATOR SLOWS YOU DOWN QUICKLY UNTIL YOU COME TO A FULL STOP. AND THEN THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE. AND THIS NON-MOVEMENT DOES NOT REQUIRE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE. WHILE A CONVENIENCE, THERE IS A DESIGN FLAW. WHEN ENABLED AND THE CAR IS STOPPED (BUT IN DRIVE), THE BRAKE LIGHTS DO NOT COME ONE. IN CONTRAST, WHEN STOPPED USING THE BRAKES, THE BRAKE LIGHTS ARE ILLUMINATED. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD! DRIVERS APPROACHING FROM BEHIND DON'T EXPECT A STOPPED CAR TO NOT HAVE BRAKE LIGHTS ON. THEY MAY REALIZE RATHER LATE THAT THE CAR IS STOPPED. IN OTHER WORDS, THE VISUAL CUE OF "BRAKE LIGHTS ON MEANS CAR IS STOPPED OR SLOWING DOWN" IS NOT EVIDENT. WHICH CAN LEAD TO MISTAKES BY DRIVERS WHO ARE NOT PAYING FULL ATTENTION. THIS HAPPENED TO ME RECENTLY. I WAS STOPPED BEHIND A CAR WAITING AT A CROSSWALK. ON A 3 LANE 40MPH STREET, WITH NO LIGHTS OR STOP SIGNS FOR A MILE. A FAST STRETCH WITH NO EXPECTATION OF STOPPING!. I, IN MY LEAF, HAD EZ PEDAL ENABLED. I WORRIED THAT SOMEONE MIGHT HIT ME, SINCE I WAS STOPPED IN A PLACE THAT IS UNUSUAL TO STOP IN. AND 15 SECONDS AFTER STOPPING I WAST REAR ENDED! NO PERSONAL DAMAGE, BUT $1500 IN REPAIR (AND MORE FOR THE CAR THAT HIT ME). SINCE I WAS NOT AT FAULT, I WILL GET FULL INSURANCE. BUT IT IS NOT A GOOD THING! I CHECKED LATER - AND INDEED THE BRAKE LIGHTS DO NOT GO ON WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED IN EZ-PEDAL MODE. THIS NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED! I IMAGINE THIS IS A SOFTWARE UPDATE. I SUGGEST THAT FOR CARS (LEAF OR OTHER) IN DRIVE, WITH EZ-PEDAL ENABLED: WHEN THE CAR IS FULLY STOPPED THE BRAKE LIGHTS MUST GO ON. AND, WHEN THE CAR IS DECELERATING QUICKLY (WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR FOOT OF THE ACCELERATOR WHILE MOVING), THE BRAKE LIGHTS SHOULD GO ON. THANKS. I COULD OF PUT ON MY EMERGENCY FLASHERS, BUT IT IS NOT EASY TO THINK OF SUCH A TRICK ON THE FLY.*DT*JB *DT*JB

NISSAN PROPILOT HAS A SERIOUS SAFETY FLAW. WHEN USING PROPILOT ON MY 2018 NISSAN LEAF SV IN STOP AND GO HIGHWAY TRAFFIC, SOMETIMES WHEN MY NISSAN LEAF COASTS TO AN ALMOST COMPLETE STOP 15 FEET BEHIND A "BOXY" VEHICLE LIKE A SEMI-TRUCK, THE LEAF SUDDENLY ACCELERATES LIKE IF THERE IS NO VEHICLE DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF ME AND IF I AM NOT COMPLETELY ATTENTIVE AND IF I DO NOT IMMEDIATELY APPLY THE BREAKS, THE NISSAN LEAF WOULD REAR END THE SEMI-TRUCK. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME 4 TIMES OVER THE PAST 6 MONTHS WHEN FOLLOWING A SEMI-TRUCK WITH TRAILER AND THIS MORNING IT OCCURRED AGAIN A FIFTH TIME BUT THIS TIME I WAS BEHIND A SEDAN. I HAVE A DASHCAM VIDEO OF THE INCIDENT FROM THIS MORNING. I HAVE REPORTED THIS ISSUE TO NISSAN BUT THEY HAVE DONE NOTHING ABOUT IT. I HAVE TAKEN MY 2018 NISSAN LEAF IN TO THE LOCAL NISSAN SERVICE CENTER BUT THEY SAY THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE SENSORS AND THEY DO NOT SEE ANY ISSUES AND NO ERROR CODES REPORTED BY THE CAR. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SOFTWARE PROBLEM WHERE THE SOFTWARE IGNORES THE RADAR IMAGE OF THE TRUCK IN FRONT BECAUSE IT THINKS IT IS AN OVERHEAD SIGN AND NOT ANOTHER VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY IN FRONT, THE CAMERA INPUT OF THE VEHICLE IN FRONT ALSO APPEARS TO BE IGNORED BY THE SOFTWARE IN THIS SITUATION. ADDITIONALLY, I HAVE HAD AT LEAST TWO INCIDENTS (ALSO OCCURRED THIS MORNING) WHERE PROPILOT LANE KEEPING FEATURE SHUTS OFF AND AUTOMATIC EMERGENCY BREAKING IS ALSO SHUT OFF AND DEACTIVATED FOR AND EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME FOR NOW APPARENT REASON (IN EXCELLENT WEATHER AND CLEAR CONDITIONS, NO OBSTRUCTIONS OF SENSORS, ETC.), I HAVE VIDEO OF THIS AS WELL.

ON THE STREET WE USE TO LEAVE OUR NEIGHBORHOOD, THERE IS ONE SECTION OF THE CEMENT THAT IS A LITTLE TALLER THAN THE ONE BEFORE IT.INTERMITTENTLY, THE AUTOMATIC BREAKING WILL BE SET OFF IN THIS SPOT FOR NO REASON. IT IS ALARMING! WE ARE ALSO WORRIED IT WILL HAPPEN ON A BUSY STREET AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

GROOVED ROAD SURFACE IN COMBINATION WITH SPECIFIC VEHICLES GIVE DRIVERS THE FEELING OF LOSING CONTROL OF THEIR VEHICLES AT FREEWAY SPEEDS. SPECIFICALLY, THE GROOVED SURFACE OF WASHINGTON STATE ROUTE 520 EVERGREEN POINT FLOATING BRIDGE (REGULAR SPEED OF 60 MPH) IN COMBINATION WITH CURRENT MODEL NISSAN LEAF, ARE LEADING TO SIGNIFICANT "GROOVE WANDER" WITH HEAVY SHAKING TO THE LEFT AND RIGHT. THE RAPID ONSET OF SUCH SHAKING UPON DRIVING ONTO THE BRIDGE AT 60 MPH IS GIVING DRIVERS A FEELING OF LOSING CONTROL OF THEIR VEHICLES. THIS EFFECT DOES NOT GET BETTER EVEN WHEN REDUCING SPEED TO 40 MPH.THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON EVER SINCE THE NEW BRIDGE WAS OPENED OVER A YEAR AGO, AND IS MUCH WORSE THAN THE SIDE WINDS EXPERIENCED ON THE PREVIOUS BRIDGE. NISSAN DENIES BEING AWARE OF THIS ISSUE. AT MY WORKPLACE, MULTIPLE DRIVERS HAVE REPORTED THIS EFFECT, WHICH ALSO OCCURS ON A PAVEMENT TEST SEGMENT BETWEEN REDMOND WA AND WOODINVILLE WA (AVONDALE RD).