2016 Subaru Impreza Complaint Log

Hello, I just purchase this vehicle from a dealership, 615 auto sales. After purchasing the vehicle I decided to go and get the recall done that was never done to the vehicle at the repair shop they did the recall but then ask me where did I purchase this vehicle from then I told them. The repair shop told me the grim news that the car was very rusted and should have not been sold like it was. There was nothing on the CARFAX about anything else and the shop told me that the car was a safety hazard. When I purchase the vehicle AS IS all I have seen was a TPM light on and a recall and getting some tires they were also bad but did not have any knowledge of how bad the frame was even there were rust in the engine bay area like it been sitting in water or something but nothing was reported on the CARFAX.

The hood latch system failed and flew open while driving on the highway smashing the windshield. I was unable to see driving, glass shattered everywhere. The car was serviced three weeks prior and there was no notation of an issue with the hood latch. The hood would not latch after the incident either. Police were on scene and viewed the incident and insurance will be investigating. There have been numerous other reports of this happening with other subaru models including recalls. There are no open recalls on this vehicle and a multi-point inspection was done on the car 3 weeks prior.

The seat foam has degraded and exposed the metal frame through the seat cover on the driver side front seat. It is not safe to drive with a metal frame being exposed. A service bulletin (12-232-18 dated 2/6/2018) indicates there is an issue with the seat construction that can lead to this defect/degradation but refuse to acknowledge the issue to customers calling it an "outside forces" problem.

Key will not turn past ACC after driving and so will not allow key to be removed from the car. This is a sporadic issue but could be a safety concern if needing to leave the car for an emergency as it runs down the battery and will not allow me to secure the vehicle. Driving around for 5 to 10 minutes more usually solves the problem but I might not have that extra time in an emergency! This has occurred several times, most recently today.

I contacted Subaru in Mentor Oh at adventure subaru under TSB 19V065000 and was told to take it in to get looked at, my issue when I purchased the car at 67k miles i found that the car had a loud clunky sound while steering and going over bumps. After seeing the dealer and the stated the issue was from the steer rack and was exactly what was described exactly in the TSB but the only thing was they did not see a visible crack, the repair was denied. I then took the car to another dealer near Beavercreek oh after calling Subaru of America Case # [XXX]. Subaru of America was very certain that the repair was going to get performed. After going to the dealer it was yet again denied again, now it is outside the TSB warranty window. The car has had the entire suspension repaired and the noise is so bad and the steering doesn’t feel right. The car literally is unsafe to drive, i owe money to my loan company for 540 a month, the car just sits in the garage. I am sick of getting put through this nightmare. I want the part replaced or to get out of the loan completely and return the car to Subaru or the bank. Please help i have ran out of ideas. I do lots of driving and dying in a car accident scares me to death. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

We keep on having to replace our headlights. We just got one replaced 5 months ago and it’s out again. This will be the fourth time in three years. No one can figure out why the headlights keep burning out.

Engine light came on. Checked it, the failure was the transmission solenoid. It reported that a failure was about to occur. Brought it into the Subaru dealership because the will not sell any transmission parts to repair shops in the Phoenix area. I am not sure if I would have had a bigger problem, or not had I not taken it in right away.

This is the third time that this has happened on the highway. I was driving about 70 miles per hour when my acceleration cut out. My dashboard lights, head lights, and other electronics were still on, but the car stalled and would not accelerate. The car struggled to move forward, jerking while slowing down, and came to a stop. I was in the middle lane of traffic on the highway late at night driving home and wasn't able to get my vehicle fully out of the highway when it was coming to a stop. This put me in a very dangerous situation on the highway where my car could potentially be hit by people rushing by. I got out of the car and called 911, who helped me move my car to a safer location. Once the car stopped, i tried turning the key a few times and the spark plug ran, but the car would not turn on. The next day, the car did turn on and there were no warning lights or any other diagnostic readings. The car was taken to Subaru where they did diagnostic tests, but were not able to find any irregularities. I've had the same thing happen twice before and they couldn't diagnose the problem then either. I also experienced hesitation when accelerating where the car wouldn't accelerate, and then it would jerk forward when it did. After repeatedly going back to Subaru for this issue as the transmission is under warranty, they replaced the torque converter and said the problem was solved. I still experienced the hesitation and jerking while driving so I took it back, to which they said that it was driving normal, and that the hesitation was because of the way I drove the car. The car is not driving normal or safe because it stalled and stopped accelerating on the highway, like I told them it would again, putting me in danger. I believe it is the transmission that is damaged, and despite the extended warranty, they won't or can't address it. It would be available for inspection if it would help. There should really be a recall because they fight extended warranty claims

Transmission failure while at high speed on an interstate highway resulted in disengagement, immediate deceleration and limited steerage in an area with limited breakdown lane. Subaru reports this is a known issue for which they extended warranty but it is incomplete and does not include any safety check prior to failure!

I bought my 2016 Subaru Impreza brand new and take great care of it. The car has 80,300 miles and when I did a sharp U turn the car stalled out and I was almost rear-ended. At a busy intersection a few weeks I was at a red light and my car was noticeably idling rough and when the light went green my car stalled out causing the road to be blocked. After taking my car to a certified mechanic I find out that the head gasket has already failed and has coolant leaking into it. It aslo showed a PO302 code. Subaru years before stated that this problem had been fixed when it clearly has not been. I purchased this car because it was suppose to be reliable and now I owe $5,500 to have my car repaired and hopefully run well & safe.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Impreza. The contact stated that while driving approximately 15 MPH and while attempting to avoid a collision with a second vehicle, the contact lost control of the steering and crashed into a tree. During the crash, the front end of the vehicle was damaged but no air bags were deployed. The contact sustained facial and dental injuries along with injuries to the left knee, left arm, and chest which required medical treatment. The vehicle was not towed. A police report was taken at the scene. The cause of the failure was not yet determined. The local dealer was contacted. The manufacturer was not yet notified. The failure mileage was 46,000.

I was driving on the highway when I experienced a sudden jerking and my car stopped accelerating while going about 67 miles an hour and came to a stop on the highway. It was dark outside and I was left in the road without the ability to turn my car back on. I towed the car to the dealership, and they couldn't diagnose a problem. The same thing happened two weeks later and they told me that because the car was less than a quarter-tank both times, that I shouldn't drive my car with less than a quarter tank of gas or I'd be at risk of this happening again. Being on the highway with cars rushing past in the dark several times put my safety at risk and the safety of other drivers. I later experienced knocking/jerking around 10 miles an hour, that led to a suspected problem with the transmission. The car would also hesitate accelerating when stopped, and would experience the same jerking motion with a thud at the same time. I brought the car in again, and they couldn't diagnose the problem, but recommended a service that may fix the issue. I experienced the same issue so I brought the car back in. They replicated the issue and did work under warranty to replace the torque converter. I experienced the same problem and brought the car back in, but they can't diagnose the issue now. I believe my car transmission is still faulty and puts me at risk of stalling while driving at highway speeds, which could very easily put me and others at risk. I had to bring my car in several times for them to acknowledge a problem, and have been put into the same car which i believe is unsafe each time. When the car stalled on the highway there were blinking warning lights, but there was no diagnosis at the dealership. The car is currently at the dealership and they want me to drive it for them to show them the problem again with jerking/knocking. I'm getting all my invoices together to have more documentation, and will have more by the end of the day.

The key will not come out of the ignition when the engine has stopped. It has to be restarted (often multiple times) before the key will come out. Does not happen every time but is frequent. This could lead people to leave the key in place if they are in a hurry and result in the possibility of theft. Roommate has 2017 Outback that does the same thing and was told that it could be fixed but the cost would be approx $1300.There are no warning lights on when this happens and there is nothing that indicates whether or not it will happen.

Intermittently unable to remove the keys from ignition after placing the car into Park and shutting off the engine. (Instances where keys remain stuck/locked in the ignition requiring someone to 'muscle' them out of there). I believe this is linked to a faulty sensor not allowing the keys to be released. Second complaint: The headset unit on the car, (starlink), has a touchscreen that no longer responds to touch and I believe is slowly draining the battery from the car. Subaru is unwilling to service the vehicle for either problem without a service fee.

In June 2020, 3 months after buying my 2016 Impreza used, the windshield randomly cracked from the bottom of the windshield and travelled upwards on the passenger side. Over the couple of weeks it took before getting replaced, the crack continued to spread splitting in multiple directions, including travelling across the bottom of the windshield and coming up the middle. By the time I was able to get the windshield replaced, there was about 3 and half feet cracked in total. When this crack occurred, I realized that it was a PGW windshield and not the original, meaning that it had been replaced before my purchase. The windshield was replaced with a XYG windshield by a third party and paid for by Subaru. Now in April 2022, I went to get into my car one morning and noticed that the windshield had spontaneously cracked from the bottom up in the middle of the windshield and the crack stretches about 10 inches. Additionally, the crack can only be felt from the inside and there is no damage to the outside. Based on me now needing to replace it for at least the third time since 2016, I question the quality of how the windshield fits and the seal if this is such a frequent issue.

In November of 2018 and again January 31, 2022. In November 2018, I was backing up in small parking lot tap the gas pedal. and my car speed up going backwards, even when I was pushing the brake. What stopped the momentum was another car, my car crashed into caused extensive damage to that car( it was totaled) . The second time; I turned the wheels to back-in as I had a several times into my driveway. The car was to far over, but because I was not centered enough in the driveway, I moved forward to realign myself. The car seemed to hesitate as I moved forward, before putting it in reverse. I Put the car in reverse, lightly hit gas the car seem to take off as if it was a rocket backing up into driveway and went through the back wall of my garage ( because there was so much snow it came to a stop). My daughter was observed on the ring camera. I have been very sensitive to making sure since first time to be more aware. It is significant to note prior to this occurrence my car did this in smaller spurts ,( but did not think anything of it , I took my car in for all of the checks) but I was able to control it by putting foot on brake, It's like this time the engine revved up on its own. This time the car was totaled. ( The back window shattered. A lot of damage underneath the car. I will not be buying another Subaru. It was my dream car:(. I was very traumatized.)I was diligent with the maintenance of the car. I informed my insurance company.

Recently, when trying to park and turn off the vehicle, the key gets stuck in the battery position. The engine will turn off, but the car doesn't fully turn off so you can remove the key. The shifter is in park and there is no steering wheel lock or anything else that might ordinarily prevent the vehicle from being turned off. This process is no different from every other time I've turned the vehicle off previously. To finally retrieve the key, the car needs to be restarted numerous times (often 1-3 more times) while trying a combination of moving the steering wheel, putting the shifter into drive and back into park, and/or releasing the brake pedal and reapplying it firmly. My car is only lightly used and judging by internet research, this is a common issue with Subaru vehicles around this age due to a faulty part, not normal wear and tear.

Windshield cracked with a small pebble

The vehicle's engine displayed an "check engine" light, the cruise control indicator light flashed on and off continuously when not engaged at a standstill, and the VDC vehicle dynamics control off indicator remained lit. This occurred while the vehicle was parked and these indicators came on when the engine was switched on. When driving a noticeable decrease in engine performance and louder exhaust noise was evident. Took vehicle to dealer and subsequently was informed that there was a complete four valve engine failure that would require a complete overhaul of engine at an extremely high cost. The safety issue would be if this had occurred at highway speeds potentially losing control of vehicle causing accident. This was the second time this has occurred with this particular vehicle. When purchased new in 2016 after roughly 38k miles engine failed and had to be rebuilt at dealer cost. This current failure occurred at just under 101k miles, so this second failure occured at approximately 60k miles after first repair. This indicates to me that: 1. Poor engine quality, 2. Poor repair parts, 3. Poor quality control at the factory, 4, Poor repair service. As of writing of this complaint vehicle is still at the dealer undergoing repair which according to service rep will take a few days. We believe the cost of this repair should lay at the feet of Subaru for producing a defective engine.

There seems to be an issue with keys getting stuck in the ignition on a lot of various years and makes of Subaru's. So much so, that Subaru put out a service bulletin (Bulletin Number: 16-112-18R) to remedy this. Unfortunately, those who are out of the warranty time frame, are no longer eligible for a replacement without charge. This is not a safety issue per-say, but rather an issue of the car possibly getting stole due to Subaru's unwillingness to make this a recall issue and making it free to current owners regardless of the warranty status. What I would like for you folks to do is push subaru's hand into making this a recall issue and fixing the issue free of charge even if the vehicle is outside of the warranty time period. Thank you for taking the time to read my concern. PS: I got the recall serviced on this vehicle on 09/17/2021

After turning off the engine in Park, the keys are not being released from the ACC position of the ignition in my 2016 Subaru Impreza, which has 32,000 miles. I must repeatedly depress the shift lever and/or shift gears back and forth and/or restart and turn off the car in order to get the key out. This has been going on for two months now for at least half the time although not every time I turn off the car. There are no warning messages or diagnostic lights, just the malfunction itself. The issue has been documented in TSB 16-112-18 in numerous models of Subaru. My spouse and I have contacted Subaru of America and a local Subaru dealer, who have disclaimed responsibility for the problem, but did admit that this was a known issue. The dealer also insinuated that the fault could be the customers' by spilling beverages or something into the shifter linkage. As indicated in the YouTube printout I have attached (Yakfish Taco 2014 - 2018 Subaru Forester Key Stuck in Ignition - Quick fix solution), many people are working around this problem by disabling the key removal safety feature in the wiring of the steering column. This allows the key to be removed from the ignition at any time, such as when the vehicle is driving or stopped but not in Park. It is my belief that people are going to die from this. Subaru should be forced to issue a recall.

Windshield spontaneously cracked. Additionally, windshield wiper reservoir leaks but dealer says it’s fine.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Impreza. The contact stated while driving at a low rate of speed and making a right turn, the vehicle suddenly experienced unintended acceleration causing the driver to lose control of the steering and drive into the opposite lane and into the neighbor’s yard. After shifting into neutral, the vehicle decelerated. The vehicle was later towed to the dealer who was unable to duplicate the failure. In addition, on several occasions when turning the vehicle off, the key would remain stuck in the ignition switch. The cause of the failure was not determined. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 24,800. The Vin was not available.

For the past few months, whenever I reach my destination, my key has been getting stuck in the ignition when I'm trying to park the car. This happens intermittently although it's becoming more frequent. I park the car, shift into "P", turn the key and it only turns partially . I have to keep shifting in & out of "P" until it finally turns the rest of the way and comes out. I've started to carry a second key with me. I have an appointment with a dealer next week.

DRIVING AND HIT A SMALL POTHOLE AND THE ENTIRE PASSENGER FRONT HEADLIGHT FELL OUT OF THE CAR. IT WAS NOT DARK OUT. THE CAR WAS FINE PRIOR TO TODAY. I WAS ON A CITY STREET JUST AFTER A SNOWSTORM AND ROADS WERE PLOWED.

The component / system that fails is the fuel system / fuel pump. The 2016 subaru impreza has the same fuel pump that later motels have and they where recalled due to the fuel not being delivered correctly from the fuel tank to the engine. it is typically winter fuels that make the fuel pump fail. (there is a handful of information on other websites) The safety issue is that the car will shut off and is difficult to get started again. this happens when the car has about 2 gallons left in the tank or 50 ish miles to empty. this situation has happened to me three (3) times on the highway at about 70 miles an hour. this also happens most commonly in the winter due to the available fuel. this is also a safety issue because the car has NO heat and you could be stranded with a baby and this could become life threatening. This problem has been reported on other websites and reproduced in my car 3 times. When I got my car towed to a Kia dealer (closest one) they said it was a mechanical issue with the fuel system. The Kia dealer told me that the issue is due to winter fuel and low pressure in the fuel line. they recommended that I keep my car at or above 100 miles to empty. (so far they are correct) This issue doesn't trigger any warning lamps / lights, or set any codes off. The car will just shut off and you will have to get more pressure into the fuel system.

The variable fan speed control for the cabin air melted. The dial could no longer be moved and the assembly, once removed, had parts that were melted. Subaru was not interested. Cost me $1200 to get it fixed. Unfortunately, I cannot locate any pictures.

CAR WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO TAK KEY OUT OF IGNITION WHEN CAR IS IN PARK.

WHEN MY CAR IS PARKED I CANNOT REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I HAVE TO TAKE IT OUT OF PARK PUT IT BACK IN PARK PRESS PARK ALL THE WAY FORWARD JIGGLE MY KEY MOVE MY STEERING WHEEL AND THEN TAKE MY KEY OUT. SOMETIMES IT STILL WILL NOT REMOVE AND IT WILL TAKE ME A VERY LONG TIME TO REMOVE IT. OTHER TIMES I HAVE TO REVERSE MY CAR AND DRIVE FORWARD AND PARK TO TRY AND TAKE IT OUT.

KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHICH HAPPENS EVERY DAY SINCE THE FIRST HAPPENING ON 8/22/20. AFTER GOOGLING IT APPEARS THIS IS A COMMON OCCURRENCE WITH 2016 IMPREZAS AND OUTBACKS.

MY CAR SHAKES WHEN I DRIVING THE CAR AND WHEN I AM WAITING FOR THE LIGHT TO CHANCE USING THE BRAKES AND AC IT LOOKS LIKE TURN IN OFF .I WENT TO THE DEALER THEY SAID IS NORMAL BUT I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW NEVER SHAKE I JUST WORRY HAVE TO DO SOMETHING WITH THE BRAKES

KEY ON THE SUBARU IMPREZA WOULD NOT TURN TO THE OFF POSITION. DIFFICULT TO GET KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. TOOK CAR TO NAPLETON'S SUBARU IN PALATINE AND MECHANIC TECH REPLACED PARK SWITCH. I BELIEVE MECHANIC STATED THE KEY WOULD HAVE FALLEN OUT OF THE IGNITION IF THIS WAS NOT FIXED. MY IMPREZA HAS 28,289 MILES AND IS IN GREAT CONDITION. WHY DID THIS HAPPEN? CAR HAS KEY IGNITION AND WOULD NOT GO TO FINAL POSITION.

KEY LOCKS INTO IGNITION AND VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE RESTARTED AND THE SHIFT MOVED FROM PARK POSITION BACK TO PARK POSITION A FEW TIMES BEFORE THE KEY WILL RELEASE. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS ONLINE REGARDING THIS ISSUE IE. FAILING LOCK CYLINDER/PARK SENSOR PROBLEMS. WILL THERE BE AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS AND A POSSIBLE RECALL? MY CAR HAS LESS THAN 50,000M ON IT.

KEY GETS STUCK IN VEHICLE IGNITION WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PLACED INTO PARK. SOME SORT OF COMPONENT THAT TELLS THE CAR IT IS PARKED IS MALFUNCTIONING. THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN EVERY TIME BUT PROBABLY ABOUT 50% OF THE TIME. PLACING THE CAR INTO GEAR AND THEN BACK INTO PARK EVENTUALLY FIXES THE ISSUE, BUT IT OFTEN TAKES MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS. THIS STARTED HAPPENING AFTER ADJUSTING THE STEERING WHEEL FOR ANOTHER DRIVER. IT HAS SUBSEQUENTLY BEEN AN ISSUE.

WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED AND TURNED OFF, THE KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND CAN'T BE REMOVED WITHOUT TURNING THE CAR BACK ON AND SHIFTING FROM PARK BACK TO DRIVE AND THEN BACK TO PARK AGAIN. HAVE TO DO THIS TWICE TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION.

ONCE THE CAR IS PARKED, THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION. THIS PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT MORE FREQUENT OVER THE LAST YEAR UNTIL IT GOT STUCK EVERY TIME WE DROVE. IT WOULD TAKE MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF TO GET THE KEY OUT. SUBARU OF AMERICA DID AGREE TO FIX IT AT NO CHARGE EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY.

CAR IS STRUGGLING TO START, AND BATTERY HAS BEE DRAINING AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK BUT NEVER GOT A BATTERY LOW LIGHT. HAVE BEEN DRIVING IT EVERY WEEK DAY FOR ABOUT 5-10 MILES CONSISTENTLY. TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE & THEY RAN SOME TESTS, SAID THERE IS NO POWER LEAK AND THE BATTERY IS STILL IN GOOD CONDITION. HOWEVER THE BATTERY STILL IS DRAINING.

AFTER STOPPING THE VEHICLE AND WHEN TRYING TO TAKE KEY OUT, KEY GETS STUCK IN THE KEY SLOT - CANNOT TAKE OUT. COMPLAINED TO DEALER AND DEALER IMMEDIATELY SAID IT IS IS A BRAKE SHIFT LOCK PROBLEM AND WILL COST $700 TO FIX - SO SUBARU KNOWS OF THE PROBLEM. CAR IS ONLY 24K MILES OLD. MANY PEOPLE ARE REPORTING IT ONLINE. DEALER SAYS IF I DO NOT FIX IT, YOU WILL GET STUCK OUTSIDE WITHOUT BEING ABLE TO TAKE KEY OUT AT A SUPER MARKET, FOR EXAMPLE

THE KEY ROUTINELY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, REQUIRING ME TO SOMETIMES RESTART THE CAR MULTIPLE TIMES IN ORDER RIP REMOVE IT. I HAVE SEEN POSTS ON THE INTERNET SUGGESTING A SENSOR DOES NOT TELL THE CAR THAT IT IS IN PARK AND GOVE DIRECTIONS TO DISCONNECT IT.

KEY IGNITION REQUIRES MULTIPLE TRIES TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION LOCK. THIS HAPPENS EACH TIME I DRIVE THE CAR. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WITHOUT RESTARTING THE CAR AND COMPRESSING THE BRAKES OVER AND OVER.

GOING A VERY LOW RATE OF SPEED A SMALL ROCK WAS ABLE TO CRACK MY WINDSHIELD. I WAS MERGING ONTO A HIGHWAY WITH A WORK VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME. THE WINDSHIELD APPEARS TO BE VERY WEAK AND BRITTLE. I HAVE NOT EVEN HAD MY FORESTER FOR A YEAR AND IT SEEMS AS IF DINKS AND CRACKS APPEAR VERY EASILY. I HAD SAFELITE COME TO FILL IN THE CRACK AND ONLY 80% WAS ABLE TO BE CORRECTED.. ON A CRACK SMALLER THAN A SAND DOLLAR. THINGS CONSTANTLY SEEM TO BE HEADED TOWARDS THE WINDSHIELD. I DON'T KNOW WHO TO FILE A COMPLAINT WITH, I FEAR SUBARU WOULDN'T CARE ABOUT WHAT SEEMS LIKE A MINOR COMPLAINT. I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE POTENTIAL OF GETTING INTO A ACCIDENT AND MY WINDSHIELD RAINING OVER ME. OR A SMALL OBJECT BLOWING THROUGH MY WINDSHIELD.

WHEN CAR IS STOPPED/PARKED I AM UNABLE TO TURN IGNITION OFF AND REMOVE THE KEY. THIS HAPPENS 25% OF THE TIME. IT IS AN ONGOING ISSUE.

WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED AND TURNED OFF, THE KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND CAN'T BE REMOVED. SUBARU HAS ISSUED A TSB (TSB 16-112-18R) BUT NOT A RECALL.

WHEN DRIVING WITH A FRONT SEAT PASSENGER THE PASSENGER BECOMES UNRECOGNIZED AND AIR BAG LIGHTS COME ON. THIS HAPPENS INTERMITTENTLY. THIS HAPPENS WILL DRIVING

WHILE CAR WAS SLOWING IN A PARKING LOT AREA, TURNING AND BRAKING (HAVE WITNESS TO ATTEST TO THIS), IT HAD SUA (SUDDEN UNINTENDED ACCELERATION) AS I WAS ABOUT TO PARK AND THE VEHICLE WENT OVER A CURB AND THROUGH A BUILDING WALL IN LESS THAN 10 SECONDS. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THIS CAR ALSO HAD A RECENT RECALL INVOLVING THE ELECTRICAL BRAKE SYSTEM LIGHTS/SENSORS. THERE WAS NO ALCOHOL, PILLS OR ANYTHING OF THAT SORT INVOLVED AND NOR WAS A CELL PHONE IN PLAY AND NO DISTRACTIONS. THE CAR WAS BEING PARKED, AS IS THE CASE EVERYDAY AND THERE WAS A JOLT OF ACCELERATION AS I WAS DOING SO, WHICH IN TURN CAUSED CONFUSION AND PANIC. MY FOOT WAS NOT ON THE ACCELERATION AS THIS HAPPENED. I AM VERY FORTUNATE THAT NO ONE WAS HURT. ALTHOUGH, SEEING HOW I HAVE NEVER BEEN INVOLVED IN A WRECK BEFORE, THIS HAS ALL BEEN VERY TRAUMATIC. (DRIVING FOR ALMOST 20 YEARS) I HAVE NOTIFIED MY INSURANCE AND SUBARU ABOUT WHAT HAPPENED. HOPEFULLY THEY CAN SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SITUATION SO IT WON'T HAPPEN TO ANYWAY ONE ELSE. THE OTHER PEOPLE THAT IT HAS HAPPENED TO, UPON RESEARCH, MY HEART GOES OUT TO THEM.

THERE IS A COMMON KNOWN ISSUE WITH SUBARU'S THAT WHEN PUT INTO PARK AND TURNED OFF, THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO BE TURNED ON AND OFF, WHILE PUTTING INTO DRIVE, MOVING AND THEN BACK INTO PARK. WITH CHILDREN AROUND, THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND AN UNNECESSARY RISK. CURRENTY THIS IS ONLY COVERED UNDER STANDARD WARRANTY AND DISSUADING PEOPLE FROM REPAIRING. SUBARU'S ANSWER TO OUR INQUIRIES AT THE SHOP AND ONLINE IS THAT IT IS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY. THE SHOP SAID THEY SEE THIS COMMONLY. HTTPS://WWW.SUBARUFORESTER.ORG/VBULLETIN/F88/CANNOT-REMOVE-KEY-698170/ SUBARU NEEDS TO BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR THIS DESIGN FLAW BEFORE IT CAUSES SOMEONE HARM.

AFTER RECEIVING A RECALL NOTICE BY EMAIL FOR NHTSA RECALL ID 19V-149, I CALLED FOX SUBARU OF GRAND RAPIDS, MI (888-658-9163) FOR RECALL REPAIR. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT TOLD ME THAT I WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO GET IN FOR RECALL REPAIRS FOR AT LEAST TWO MONTHS OR LONGER, WHICH IS WELL BEYOND A REASONABLE TIME FOR REPAIR OF AN URGENT SAFETY RECALL.

IF THE TWO FRONT SEATS ARE MILDLY WET, THEN THE FRONT AIR BAGS WILL TURN OFF. THIS MEANS THAT IF YOU SPILLED A DRINK, HAVE BLADDER PROBLEMS, WENT SWIMMING OR SNOWBOARDING, OR HAVE WET VACUUMED YOUR SEATS THEN THE AIRBAGS WILL TURN OFF. THEY ARE OFF UNTIL THE SEAT COMPLETELY DRIES WETHER YOU ARE MOVING OR NOT. IT HAPPENS EVERY TIME THE SEAT GETS WET.

I RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE FOR BRAKE LIGHTS SUBARU SAFETY RECALL WUE-90; NHSTA RECALL ID 19V-149; APRIL 2019. I CALLED OUR LOCAL DEALER TO ARRANGE REPAIR AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WOULDN'T OCCUR UNTIL 8 JULY. WHAT ARE WE SUPPOSED TO DO IN THE MEANTIME? THE CAR IS USED FOR BUSINESS AND THE ONLY ONE WE OWN. WE CAN'T JUST "NOT DRIVE IT" AND ARE APPARENTLY AT INCREASED RISK DESPITE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30,000 MILES PER YEAR. IN THE TWO MONTHS BEFORE THIS CAN BE REMEDIED IT WILL HAVE BEEN DRIVEN APPROXIMATELY 5000 MILES, ALL THE WHILE RUNNING THE RISK OF GETTING REAR ENDED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU IMPREZA. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN PARK, THE KEY FAILED TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO CAPITAL CHEVROLET (2855 MAPLE AVE NE, SALEM, OR 97301, (503) 585-4141) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE GEAR SHIFTER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO NHTSA. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 15,000. CONSUMER STATED THE PROBLEM IS WITH DEFECTIVE PLATE OPERATED BY THE GEAR SHIFTER TO TOUCH A SENOR WHICH JOB IS TO RELEASE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. THIS PLATE DOESN'T ALWAYS DO THE JOB THEREBY THE FAILURE OF THE KEY. I WAS TOLD THIS PROBLEM IS HAPPENING IN ALL SUBARU MODELS OF 2016 AND BEYOND. CONSUMER STATED IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK AND NOT RELEASING THE KEY.*JB