2017 Subaru Outback Complaint Log

WE CONTINUE TO HAVE TO CHANGE THE BATTERY IN OUR SUBARU OUTBACK. THIS LAST ONE ONLY LASTED 2-3 MONTHS.

DRIVEN THE 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK IN THE MORNING TO WORK AND PARKED IN A COVERED PARKING GARAGE. NOTICED A BIG CRACK ON THE UPPER MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD WHEN GETTING BACK TO THE CAR IN THE GARAGE AT NIGHT TIME.

BATTERY DRAINS FOR NO APPARENT REASON. LEAVES PEOPLE STRANDED.

VEHICLE DIED WHILE IN A HOSPITAL PARKING LOT AND WAS JUMP-STARTED. BATTERY REPLACED BY A LOCAL REPAIR SHOP. CAR COULD ONLY SIT 2 - 3 DAYS BEFORE NEEDING A JUMP START. TOOK CAR TO STL SUBARU DEALER. THEY UPGRADED THE CHARGING SOFTWARE. THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THE TWO-WEEK-OLD BATTERY WAS BAD. WHEN CONNECTED TO THE CAR, THE OVERNIGHT VOLTAGE DROPS ON THE BATTERY WOULD BE FROM 0.4 TO 0.5 VOLTS. THE BATTERY WAS TYPICALLY DEAD WITHIN 3-4 DAYS. WHEN DISCONNECTED FROM THE CAR, THE OVERNIGHT VOLTAGE LOSS ON THE BATTERY WAS MINIMAL. THIS INDICATED THE CAR HAD UNSUSTAINABLE CURRENT DRAW EVEN WHEN "TURNED OFF." RETURNED TO THE SUBARU DEALER, NOTING THE CAR DISPLAYED EXCESSIVE CURRENT DRAW WHEN TURNED OFF. THEY REPORTED WAS THAT THE FACTORY DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE HAD INDICATED NO PROBLEM WITH THE CAR OR IT'S ELECTRONICS BUT THAT THE BATTERY WAS BAD. LOCAL REPAIR SHOP DISAGREED BUT REPLACED THE BATTERY WITH ANOTHER NEW. THE OVERNIGHT DISCHARGE CONDITION CONTINUED WITH A NEW BATTERY. I PLACED THE CAR IN "PARKED AND LOCKED" CONDITION AND MEASURED THE CURRENT ACROSS EACH FUSE IN BOTH THE ENGINE AND PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. 2 PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSES SHOWED SIGNIFICANT CURRENT DRAW WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED AND LOCKED, SERVING A POWER WINDOW AND THE CIRCUIT LABELED "ACC" WHICH INCLUDES THE CAR'S HEATING, COOLING AND DEFROSTING. I REMOVED THESE FUSES AND THE CAR CAN NOW SIT UNUSED FOR EXTENDED PERIODS. REPLACING THE FUSES RETURNS THE CAR TO THE OVERNIGHT BATTERY DRAIN CONDITION. I NOW HAVE A CAR WITH A NON-FUNCTIONING PASSENGER WINDOW AND NO HEATING/COOLING OR DEFROSTER. IT IS UNCLEAR IF THE CAR CAN PASS THE STATE SAFETY INSPECTION IN THIS CONDITION. TO ME, THIS PROVES THAT THE PROBLEM IS NOT THE BATTERY BUT RATHER UNSUSTAINABLE CURRENT DRAW FROM THE CAR'S ELECTRONICS WHEN PARKED AND "TURNED OFF." THE CAR IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE WITHOUT A DEFROSTER.

PURCHASED THE CAR NEW IN MAY 2017. BOB MOORE SUBARU. I JUST REPLACED THE 4TH BATTERY ON MARCH 8,2021. FOUR BATTERIES IN LESS THAN 4 YEARS. SERVICE HAS CHECKED THE SYSTEM BEFORE ON 3/8/21. SUBARU JUST SAYS IT CHECKS OUT AND THATS IT. HOW WOULD THE OWNERS OF THE COMPANY LIKE TO REPLACE A BATTERY EVERY YEAR. HOW WOULD ANYONE LOOK YOU IN THE FACE AND SAY- IT CHECKS OUT FINE. ARE YOU KIDDING ME. CAR IS GARAGE KEPT, PERFECT CONDITION AND DROVE EVERYDAY. IT IS DEAD THE NEXT DAY WITH NO SIGNS OF BEING WEAK. FOB IS IN BACK OF MY HOUSE.

THIS CAR HAS HAD REPEATED ELECTRICAL ISSUES. THE CAR IS ON IT'S THIRD BATTERY IN 4 YEARS. SUUBARU PAID FOR THE LAST "AFTERMARKET" BATTERY BASED ON MY REQUEST AND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS FROM OTHERS. THE SAFETY ISSUE CAME UP FROM THE LAST PROBLEM: THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. THIS TOO IS A COMMON PROBLEM. THE DEALER REPLACED THE SENSOR IN THE GEAR SHIFT MECHANISM TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS OWNERS ARE POSTING WORKAROUNDS ON LINE TO GET AROUND THIS PROBLEM. THE WORKAROUNDS GET AROUND THE ISSUE. HOWEVER, BY DISCONNECTING WIRES THE KEY CAN BE REMOVED IN ANY POSITION, INCLUDING WHILE THE CAR IS IN GEAR AND MOVING. THAT IS CLEARLY A POTENTIAL PROBLEM. THIS REPAIR WAS MADE APPROXIMATELY THREE WEEKS AGO. TWO DAYS AGO THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEPLETED AND THE TAILGATE WOULD NOT FUNCTION. I BROUGHT THIS TO SUBARU'S ATTENTION. THIS TIME THEY SAID I WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THEY WOULD NOT ASSIST (I WAS OUT OF WARRANTY ON THE IGNITION SWITCH AND BATTERY ISSUES). I BELIEVE THERE IS A FUNDAMENTAL PROBLEM IN THIS GENERATION OF SUBARU'S THAT NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED. A SIMPLE SEARCH OF THE SUBARU OUTBACK FORUM FOR KEY RELEASE PROBLEMS WILL VERIFY MY ASSERTION. SUBARU NEEDS TO COME CLEAN ON THE ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING DEFICIENCIES IMPACTING SAFETY AND RELIABILITY.

BATTERY HAS DIED 3 TIMES IN 4 YEARS, BATTERY REPLACED AFTER IT DIED THE FIRST TIME IN 2018. NEW BATTERY, ONLY APPROX. 2 YEARS OLD, DIED TWICE IN 2 WEEKS. ALL THREE TIMES THE CAR WOULD NOT START AFTER I HAD THE BACK HATCH AND/OR DOORS OPEN 20-30 MINUTES, SOMETIMES WHILE CLEANING THE INTERIOR. THE THIRD TIME THE CAR WOULD NOT START AFTER HAVING THE BACK HATCH OPEN APPROX. 5 MINUTES AFTER TAKING SOME ITEMS OUT OF THE BACK. ALL THREE TIMES THE CAR WAS OFF AND IN THE GARAGE.

REPEATED BATTERY FAILURES. PURCHASED VEHICLE CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED IN SEPTEMBER 2020 WITH 11,000 MILES ON IT. BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED BY DEALERSHIP TWICE SINCE THEN, AND VEHICLE STILL INTERMITTENTLY FAILS TO START UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS, REQUIRING JUMP-START.

A NEW BATTERY DIED AFTER 7 MONTHS USE. I REPLACED IT. THE NEWER ONE DIED IN 5 DAYS. I READ THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT ABOUT THIS MODEL DRAINING BATTERIES PREMATURELY. EACH TIME, WE WENT TO USE THE VEHICLE, STATIONARY, AND FOUND THE BATTERY COMPLETELY DEAD.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD CITY HIGHWAY 90 IN OCEAN SPRINGS, MS (55MPH) AND MY WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY CRACKED ABOUT SIX INCHES FROM FROM THE DRIVER SIDE NEAR WHERE THE FRAME MEETS WITH THE CAR OVER. I DID NOT GET HIT BY ANYTHING. IT WAS LIGHTLY RAINING, I HAD MY WINDSHIELD WIPERS ON THE ABSOLUTE LOWEST SETTING. IT WAS ABOUT 47 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT, AND I HAD MY DEFROSTER ON SPLIT WITH MY FEET SET TO 70 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

PREMATURE BATTERY FAILURE. FOURTH BATTERY REPLACED BY DEALERSHIP 3/21/21 SINCE PURCHASED NEW 9/15/2016

MY BATTERY DIES OFTEN. BATTERY WAS REPLACED ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO AND NOW IT IS DEAD AGAIN. I'VE REPLACED THE BATTERY 3 TIMES IN THE PAST TWO YEARS.

SUBRAU OUTBACK WINDSHIELDS ARE PRONE TO CRACKS IN THE CENTER TOP AREA. SMALL ROCKS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE 100% OF THE TIME IN THIS SAME AREA. REPLACED ORIGINAL WINDSHIELD AND CURRENT WINDSHIELD EXPERIENCED CRACKING IN THE SAME LOCATION.

I RECENTLY STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH REMOVING MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I COULD REMOVE IT MOST OF THE TIME AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS AND MESSING WITH THE SHIFTER AND STEERING WHEEL ETC. BUT THERE WAS AT LEAST ONE TIME THAT I HAD AN APPOINTMENT AND COULD NOT AFTER 10 MINUTES, REMOVE THE KEY. I HAD TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION WITH THE CAR IN THE PARTIALLY "ON" SETTING. I TOOK THIS INTO SUBARU DEALERSHIP TO GET IT FIXED ON 25MAR2021. I DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE, BUT THAT SUBARU DECIDED IT WASN'T A SAFETY ISSUE. I HAD TO PAY ABOUT $500 TO REPAIR THIS ISSUE. I BEG TO DIFFER THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. LEAVING THE KEYS IN THE IGNITION BECAUSE I COULD NOT REMOVE THEM IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE 1) AN UN-LICENSED DRIVER OR YOUNGSTER COULD HAVE GOTTEN IN THE CAR AND STARTED DRIVING IT; OR 2) A CRIMINAL COULD HAVE GOTTEN IN THE CAR AND WAITED FOR ME TO RETURN WITH MALICIOUS INTENTIONS AND 3) OR THE CAR COULD HAVE SIMPLY BEEN STOLEN. I ALSO CONTACTED MY INSURANCE REP AND FOUND OUT THAT IF A CAR IS STOLEN WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, THAT THIS WOULD BE A NON COVERED CLAIM. EVEN IF IT WAS PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME TO REMOVE THE KEYS.

THE WINDOW CRACKED FROM THE INSIDE STARTING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FRONT WINDOW. THERE ARE ALSO MULTIPLE CRACKS ON OTHER PARTS OF THE WINDOWS.

Windshield chipped very easily due to small rock. In cold weather, the chip spread across into a whole crack. Safelite has stated that the windshield needs replacing.

My battery has died on multiple occasions and it has not been user error. It dies about every 2 months if I haven't driven it long distances. I got a new battery and have the same problem. When I get it charged, I'm told it was completely drained.

BATTERY DIES AFTER THE VEHICLE IS IDLE MORE THAN A WEEK. THE ORIGINAL BATTERY LASTED THREE YEARS. THE PROBLEM CONTINUES WITH THE REPLACEMENT, WHICH IS LESS THAN A YEAR OLD. I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER AND HAVE DRIVEN THIS VEHICLE LESS THAN 20K MILES.

SLOWING DRAINING BATTERY, INCREASINGLY HARDER TO START OVER A FEW DAY, AND EVENTUAL DEAD BATTERY REQUIRING JUMP START. BEEPING SOUND (AS IF LIFT GATE WAS OPEN) OCCURRED ON LAST START BEFORE BATTERY DIED.

VEHICLE CHARGING SYSTEM SEEMS TO BE WORKING ONLY PART OF THE TIME . THE BATTERY HAS BEEN DRAINED MORE THAN ONCE AFTER DRIVING THE PREVIOUS DAY . IT'S ALMOST LIKE SOMETHING HAS BEEN LEFT ON ,DRAINING THE BATTERY WHEN I KNOW EVERY THING HAS TURNED OFF . IS THERE SOMETHING THAT STAYS ON AFTER YOU SHUT THE CAR OFF LONG ENOUGH TO DRAIN THE BATTERY ?

THE BATTERY DOES NOT KEEP A CHARGE. THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES . SUBARU REPLACED THE BATTERY ONCE. PROBLEM PERSISTS. CAR IS STATIONERY WHEN IT OCCURS.

DEFECTIVE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CAUSES BATTERY TO DRAIN PREMATURELY AND REQUIRES JUMP STARTS IF VEHICLE IS NOT FREQUENTLY OPERATED.

NUMEROUS TIMES OVER PAST TWO MONTHS, WHEN AT SLOW SPEEDS, THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION STALLS CAUSING THE CAR TO STOP. AT LEAST ONCE, WHEN ENTERING TRAFFIC, A CAR BEHIND HAD TO DO AN EMERGENCY SLOWDOWN TO AVOID A REAR END COLLISION. TWO SUBARU DEALERS HAVE CHECKED THE VEHICLE BEING UNABLE TO FIND A PROBLEM. YET, ON SEARCHING THE WEB, THIS COMMON CONDITIONIS IS CLEARLY DESCRIBED IN NHTSA FILES.

AFTER RETURNING HOME FROM RUNNING ERRANDS NOTICED WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED THERE WAS NO SIGN OF ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD DIDN'T HEAR ANYTHING HIT DURING THE TRIP

MY CAR WINDSHIELD ALL OF SUDDEN STARTED CRACKING 2 WEEKS AGO AROUND FEBRUARY 17TH.2021. MY CAR ALWAYS PARKED ON MY DRIVEWAY. CALLED LOCAL DEALER WAS TOLD IT'S GOING TO COST US $1200 TO GET IT REPLACED.

FOR NO APPARENT REASON MY OUTBACK'S WINDSHIELD CRACKED. THE CRACK STARTS NEAR THE BOTTOM OF THE PASSENGER SIDE AND EXTENDS UPWARD ABOUT 14 INCHES AND SIDEWAYS ABOUT 10 INCHES. IT OCCURED WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED AT A SKI AREA. IT WAS SNOWING AND ABOUT 28 DEGREES.

BATTERY DRAIN, ON 2ND BATTERY AND IT KEEPS DRAINING.

I PURCHASED BRAND NEW 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.6R LIMITED ON DECEMBER 27 2016, FIRST BATTERY WAS REPLACED IN DECEMBER 2019, SECOND BATTERY DIED IN FEBRUARY 14 2021. CAR HAS 30000 ORIGINAL MILES

THE WINDSHIELD IS CRACKING AND IT SEEMS TO BE WITHOUT ANY REASON. THERE IS A VERY TINY DINK THAT CAN BE SEEN, BUT THE CRACK IS SIGNIFICANT COMPARED TO THE SLIGHT DINK. THERE WAS NO INCIDENT THAT OCCURRED PRIOR TO MY NOTICING THE CRACK.

VEHICLE WILL NOT START. BATTERY GOES DEAD. THIS HAS HAPPENED MORE THAN 20 TIMES SINCE PURCHASING THE CAR.

BATTERY DIES FOR NO APPARENT REASON. VEHICLE IS STATIONARY PARKED IN GARAGE OR IN PARKING LOT. THE ORIGINAL BATTERY WAS REPLACED AND THIS STILL HAPPENS. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 5 TIMES.

I HAD JUST ENTERED THE GOLF COURSE PARKING LOT AND HAD TURNED RIGHT TO ENTER A PARKING SLOT. MY SPEED WAS LESS THAN 5 MPH. MY CAR SUDDENLY ACCELERATED OUT OF CONTROL, HIT THE CONCRETE PARKING BLOCK AND JUMPED OVER A 1 FOOT HIGH WALL WHICH WAS 3 FT. AWAY FROM THE BLOCK. THE CAR ENDED UP ON A DOWNSLOPE AND THE REAR WHEEL FORTUNATELY CAUGHT ON A RETAINING WALL. I WAS NOT INJURED AND THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THERE WAS ONE WITNESS TO THIS TERRIFYING EVENT WHICH OCCURRED ON FEBRUARY 4TH AT ABOUT 8:10 AM IN A PARKING SPOT THAT I HAVE USED AT LEAST 50 TIMES IN THE PAST YEAR.

THIS IS A RE-SUBMISSION OF COMPLAINT NO 11398779. PHOTO FILES FAILED TO UPLOAD. I HAD JUST ENTERED THE GOLF COURSE PARKING LOT AND HAD TURNED RIGHT TO ENTER A PERPENDICULAR PARKING SLOT. MY SPEED WAS LESS THAN 5 MPH. MY CAR SUDDENLY ACCELERATED OUT OF CONTROL, HIT A CONCRETE PARKING BLOCK (6 IN HIGH) AND THEN OVER A 1 FOOT HIGH WALL WHICH WAS 3 FEET FROM THE BLOCK. THE CAR ENDED UP ON A DOWN SLOPE AND THE REAR WHEEL FORTUNATELY CAUGHT ON A RETAINING WALL. I WAS NOT INJURED AND THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THERE WAS ONE WITNESS TO THIS TERRIFYING EVENT WHICH OCCURRED ON FEBRUARY 4, 2010 AT ABOUT 8:10 AM. IT OCCURRED IN A PART OF THE PARKING LOT I HAVE USED AT LEAST 50 TIMES IN THE PAST YEAR. SEVERAL MEMBERS HAVE SAID THEY ARE AFRAID OF PARKING IN THESE SPOTS AND WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN. THE COMPONENT THAT FAILED IS UNKNOWN TO ME, BUT I FEEL IT IS A DEFINITE SAFETY RISK. I WAS FULLY INSURED AND THE MINOR DAMAGE TO THE CAR WAS COVERED BY MY INSURANCE.

THIS IS THE SECOND BATTERY FAILURE ON THIS CAR WITH LESS THAN 28000 MILES. FIRST ONE WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY, LESS THAN 1 YEAR AGO.

LARGE CRACK APPEARED TODAY FOR NO REASON. NO DAMAGE TO CAUSE IT.

KEY GET STUCK IN THE IGNITION LATELY WHEN I TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND IT TAKES AWHILE BEFORE IT'S RELEASED FROM THE IGNITION. I HAVE 52K PLUS MILES NOW ON MY 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK.

I HAD BACKED MY CAR UP TO THE FRONT OF THE GARAGE. I CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP. AS I TRIED TO PUT MY CAR IN PARK, MY VEHICLE CATAPULTED INTO THE GARAGE WHICH WAS DIRECTLY BEHIND IT. I BELIEVE MY CAR EXPERIENCED "SUDDEN UNINTERRUPTED ACCELERATION". MY CINDER BLOCK GARAGE PARTIALLY COLLAPSED AND NEED TO BE COMPLETELY RAZED.

THE KEY GETS STUCK RANDOMLY IN THE IGNITION AFTER DRIVING AROUND AND PARKING THE OUTBACK. HAVE TO PLAY AROUND WITH THE SHIFTER TO HOPEFULLY GET THE KEY OUT. AT THIS TIME, IT'S RANDOM AND INTERMITTENT. IT'S A CONCERN THAT IT WILL BE A CONSTANT PROBLEM AND ONE DAY THE KEY WON'T COME OUT AT ALL. IT SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN PROBLEM AS SUBARU HAS A TSB 16-112-18R FOR THE PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM STARTED HAPPENING AFTER FOUR YEARS OF OWNERSHIP AT ABOUT 42,000 MILES. THERE HAS NOT BEEN ANY SPILLS OR CONTAMINATION THAT I KNOW OF. IT STARTED IN FEBRUARY 2021 AND HAS HAPPENED ABOUT A HALF DOZEN TIMES. HTTPS://WWW.TSBSEARCH.COM/SUBARU/16-112-18R

IN JANUARY OF 2020, CAR WITH44659 MILES UNEXPECTEDLY WOULD NOT START, REQUIRING A AAA JUMP, AND THEN PURCHASE OF NEW BATTERY. 11 MONTHS LATER, ON 2/1/2021 CAR WITH 55153 MILES WOULD AGAIN NOT STOP. AAA HAD TO JUMP START. WE DROVE VEHICLE TO A LOCAL DEALER WHO CLAIMED THAT BATTERY WAS NOW FULLY RECHARGED, AND THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. WE PURCHASED AND NOW CARRY AN EMERGENCY BATTERY CHARGER WITH US OUT OF FEAR OF THIS OCCURRING AGAIN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT IMPACT. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 77,000.

I purchased the car new on 28 February 2017. The car was started and driven to the front of the dealership for me to pickup after purchase. When I went to start the car, it did not start. The dealer said a light was probably left on and the dealer replaced the battery. On 29 January 2021 my car required a jump to start. I drove to the dealership and they said I needed to replace the battery. From the time of purchase I have noticed battery problems such as slow start or difficult starting. Also I required more than one attempt to start after the radio was used without the engine running for less than 10 minutes. On 26 March 2021 I notice the clock was not keeping correct time, the keyless entry stopped working and other electrical malfunctions. I took the car to the dealership and it took 7 days to troubleshoot the problem. The dealership said the problem was the driver side approach light was shorted. I have also have passenger side front window automatic closing problems. The window closes all the way then immediately opens half way.

THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR IS RUSTING FROM INSIDE. ISSUE WAS INFORMED TO SUBARU IN 2018 AND IN JAN 2021 THE ISSUE HAS GOTTEN WORSE.

BATTERY DRAINING RAPIDLY AND UNEXPECTEDLY.

BATTERY WON'T START FROM PARKING LOT, FOR A COUPLE OF TIMES NOW EVEN WHEN IT WAS ON IT'S FIRST YEAR. WE HAVE TO JUMP START AND ALSO REPLACED IT COUPLE OF TIMES NOW BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS.

SUDDEN BATTERY POWER LOSS MULTIPLE TIMES

1) WINDSHIELD CRACKED OVERNIGHT WHILE PARKED IN AN ENCLOSED GARAGE. THIS OCCURRED WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. 2) THE ADVANCED COLLISION DETECTION/ LANE TRACKING SYSTEM CALLED EYESIGHT FAILED WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. 3) BATTERY HAS REPEATEDLY FAILED AND REQUIRED ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE. CAR WAS PARKED IN AB ENCLOSED GARAGE MOST OF THE TIMES WHEN THIS FAILURE OCCURRED. 3) CURRENTLY, A FLAT TIRE INDICATOR IS ON EVEN THOUGH ALL TIRES ARE PROPERLY INFLATED. NOTE: EXCEPT FOR THE WINDSHIELD CASE, THE DEALER HAS BEEN UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE OR DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND THE ONLY REMEDY PROVIDED WAS A BATTERY REPLACEMENT.

Our car battery does not hold a charge. One year ago January we had Triple AAA replace the battery after several problems starting. This year we have had 3 calls to Triple AAA to charge the battery. It starts right up when they apply the charger--alternator tests as working properly, battery tests OK once charged--but the problem keeps happening. I am now afraid to take it anywhere where I might be stranded. Got a card about a class action lawsuit against Subaru regarding battery drainage issues. I mentioned this to the Triple A tech who mused, "You know, I have had a lot of dead battery calls in the last year for Subarus." Since AAA changed that battery a year and a half ago, he said if it happens again, they will replace the battery because it is under their warranty. The Subaru dealership has not sent us a recall notice. It seems they are not accepting responsibility for this defect. What is an owner to do?

ON CURVY MOUNTAINOUS ROADS AT OR BELOW POSTED SPEEDS, THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM BRAKES ENGAGE DANGEROUSLY (E.G., TRAFFIC) AND UNEXPECTEDLY. THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM IS INCORRECTLY SENSING HILLSIDES AS HAZARDS. THE EYESIGHT ALARM IS SIMILARLY TRIGGERED ON STREET INTERSECTIONS.

BATTERY FAILED AND VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY AND THE DEALERSHIP UPDATED THE ECM PROGRAM. THEY STATED BATTERIES WERE FAILING DUE TO MANY SHORT TRIPS.

PURCHASED NEW VEHICLE FROM TETON MOTORS IN JACKSON, WY. BATTERY WAS REPLACED ONCE UNDER WARRANTY AND DEALER THOUGHT IT WAS A BAD BATTERY AS IT FAILED SO QUICKLY. STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH CAR STARTING DUE TO DRAINED BATTERY ABOUT 6 MONTHS LATER AND WE THOUGHT THAT WE HAD LEFT LIGHTS ON IN THE CAR. WE TURNED OFF ALL INTERIOR LIGHTS TO TRY TO ENSURE THIS DID NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. DURING ROUTINE SERVICE WE WERE INFORMED THAT BATTERY WAS BAD AS IT WOULD NOT HOLD CHARGE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. ALSO, DEALERSHIP SUGGESTED US INSTALL A TRICKLE CHARGER AS MY WIFE DOES NOT DRIVE THE CAR VERY FAR FOR WORK. SO WE PAID TO REPLACE BATTERY AND INSTALL TRICKLE CHARGER IN EARLY 2021.