2016 Tesla Model S Complaint Log

The rear Large Drive Unit (LDU) has coolant intrusion due to a known design defect in the internal rotor seal. Coolant from the stator cooling system is leaking past the seal into the motor, degrading the winding insulation. An independent inspection by The Electrified Garage (Orlando, FL) on 04/08/2026 confirmed moisture at the rotor sensor (yellow condition) and degraded insulation resistance measured at 3.0 megohms (should be hundreds of megohms on a healthy unit). The vehicle requires a complete drive unit replacement at an estimated cost of $7,000. This is a well-documented design defect affecting 2012-2016 Model S vehicles. Tesla has acknowledged the issue by redesigning the seals in later production units and performing "coolant deletes" on remanufactured replacement units, but has not issued a recall or extended warranty coverage. The vehicle currently has 53,542 miles and no prior drivetrain warnings, yet the drive unit is failing due to a manufacturing/design defect, not owner abuse or normal wear.

Emmc memory recall, took into tesla today April 2 2026 for them to address the issue and they have refused to accept their issue on memory failure and replacement of the emmc 8gb module for a 64gb micron emmc module. Instead they insisted a $1,500 upgrade package instead of the free recall that is required for change. The current car screen in does not work due to this module failing.

I was driving about 20mph, my airbag deployed for no reason. No recalls, no warnings, nothing. I had my [XXX] daughter in the car and it was all filled with white smoke. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I am reporting a safety-related defect involving sudden loss of motive power on my 2016 Tesla Model S. During the drivetrain warranty period, the vehicle developed a persistent humming/buzzing noise from the rear drive unit. This noise was documented on video with a timestamp confirming it occurred while the vehicle was under warranty. At the time, there was no loss of performance or warning indicators. Due to the distance to the nearest Tesla service center (approximately 200 miles), the vehicle was not immediately inspected. When I later contacted Tesla Service, the vehicle was approximately three weeks outside the drivetrain warranty. Upon inspection, Tesla advised that the rear drive unit was failing and would require replacement at customer expense. Tesla declined warranty coverage despite evidence that the failure symptoms began during the warranty period. The rear drive unit later catastrophically failed while the vehicle was being driven uphill, resulting in a complete loss of propulsion. Prior to this incident, Tesla service personnel had advised that if the rear motor failed, the front motor would allow the vehicle to operate in a limp mode to reach a safe location. This did not occur. When the failure happened, the vehicle lost all motive power and was unable to maintain position on an incline. The vehicle nearly rolled backward into traffic. Police assistance was required (911 call) to redirect traffic so the vehicle could be rolled backward down the hill to a safe location. A minor child was present in the vehicle at the time. I am aware that failures of rear drive units on 2016–2017 Tesla Model S vehicles related to coolant intrusion have been reported by Tesla service personnel and other owners. This incident demonstrates a serious safety risk involving sudden loss of power and incorrect guidance regarding vehicle behavior during drive unit failure. I believe this represents a safety-related defect warranting investigation.

multitude of electrical problems: Fuel/Propulsion System, Lighting, and body controls along with all ADAS: Adaptive Cruise Control, Automatic Emergency Braking, Blind Spot Warning, Forward Collision Warning, Lane Departure Warning, Lane Keeping Assistance systems are impacted by random intermittent glitching as computer screen bubbling progressed with goo leaking out of the bottom of the main computer. Most recent symptom was disabling of ALL ADAS systems along with automatic high beam headlight switching. Long ago as screen began to bubble and express fluid the low windshield washer alert came on and remains even when the tank is full. Then the charge port responsiveness degraded and stopped automatically functioning requiring user to bypass by clicking the "open charge port", then waiting 3 seconds, then tapping "unlock charge port". User must perform this as remote manual operation from a NACS charging handle button push will FAIL. Long ago the computer controlled 'home link' module would have excessive time delays on the order of hours or days from when the user would program and or operate the function. I even had a "phanthom" car appear by the computer calculations with E-Braking before the ADAS system failed fully, a 1.0 Tesla system should not have that... Windows have randomly rolled down and the driver side rear door will unlock and open on its own as the door handles present themselves. The safety risk class is unknown unknown; if the root problem is the screen filling leaking on electronics any number of unknown, unplanned, unstudied risk failure modes exist that can not be predicted. Schematically the HOMELINK is on connector X429 sharing CANBUS connections impacting safety: Driver "Instrument Cluster", DAS systems connected to "Power Steering ECU", "iBooster ECU", "ABS / Stability ECU", "Passive Restraints Controller"... see CAN Network - Chassis drawing page 11 , "Energy System - Charger Logic Connections" "Instrument Cluster / LIN" pg35

While driving in traffic, the vehicle displayed warnings stating “Unable to drive — Pull over safely.” The vehicle progressively lost power and became unable to propel itself, requiring me to stop in traffic. Additional warnings indicated reduced acceleration and performance. The vehicle remained powered (screens and electronics active) but could no longer drive. Tesla later diagnosed a high-voltage battery failure and provided an estimate for full battery replacement. The sudden loss of propulsion in traffic created a safety hazard because the vehicle could not accelerate or continue moving with traffic.

-Airbag warning light on -Horn not working -Steering wheel scroll buttons not working -Clicking noise when turning wheel This failure occurred during normal driving. Airbags will not deploy and horn is inoperable, creating a safety risk myself and my family. I have never been into any accidents and have only driven normal. These safety systems should not fail. This is a manufacturing issue.

My 2016 Tesla Model S (45,500 miles) is experiencing a complete failure of the Media Control Unit (MCU1), resulting in a total loss of the rearview camera display and defrost/defogging controls. This is a critical safety hazard. The unit was previously replaced by Tesla in 2021 under NHTSA Recall 21V-035. However, this replacement part has failed again after only a few years of low-mileage use. Tesla Service is refusing to provide a free repair or a goodwill discount for an MCU2 upgrade, claiming the 'recall repair' only had a 1-year warranty. It is unacceptable that a safety-critical component replaced under a federal recall fails twice in 45,000 miles. Tesla has failed to provide a permanent fix for the eMMC defect identified by NHTSA. By refusing to restore the camera functionality without charging full price, Tesla is knowingly allowing a safety defect to persist. I request an investigation into these premature failures of recall-replaced components

The retracting door handle on my Tesla Model S failed, creating a dangerous situation where I could not enter the vehicle when needed. This defect poses a serious safety risk because if this failure occurred during a medical emergency, a crash, or a fire, neither I nor first responders would be able to access the vehicle quickly. In real‑world scenarios — such as needing to reach a child in the back seat, assisting an injured passenger, or evacuating the vehicle in traffic — a non‑functional door handle can cause delays that lead to injury. The failure also increases risk in cold‑weather regions, where being locked out of the vehicle can expose occupants to freezing temperatures. This is not a cosmetic issue; it is a critical safety hazard.

The contact owns a 2016 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while driving approximately 10 MPH and making a right turn there was an abnormal sound coming from the front passenger’s side of the vehicle. The contact stated then started to smell a burning rubber odor. The contact was able to stop the vehicle. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The contact became aware that the front passenger’s side wheel had seized in a right turn position and was rubbing against the wheel well. The contact had the vehicle towed to the residence. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or independent mechanic to be diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The contact researched online and related the failure to NHTSA Action Number: PE20020 (Suspension). The failure mileage was 60,348.

While driving on the freeway in the fast lane at 75 MPH I80W, the car began a loud humming sound that came from the rear. My passenger and I noted that it was significant sound that we took a video to record the sound. I was the driver and I noticed that the sound increased as I accelerated. Then without any warning the car began to decelerate and no longer accelerated. The car slowed considerably to 35 MPH and it became a major safety issue because I had to cross all lanes of traffic at this slow speed. It was only after the car had completely shut down that the warning messages began to display. I reached the side of the road and we waited for the tow truck driver for about an hour. Subsequently, the car was towed to a Tesla dealer near my home. I was informed that the drive unit needed to be replaced with an explanation of internal failure, costing over $7000. However, the root cause of the internal failure was never explained or investigated even at my request stating that they do not take apart the drive unit. This incident occurred after driving 7hrs of heavy rainfall for 2 days. A quick google search of "2016 Tesla model S drive unit failure" reveals plenty of Tesla owners that had similar issues.

I am writing to formally report a recall-related safety defect that occurred after the eMMC recall service on my vehicle’s Media Control Unit (MCU). Following the recall, the display adhesive began to leak and the screen started separating from its frame. The adhesive continues to drip onto the dashboard and the display shows signs of delamination. This is a safety issue that directly affects driver visibility and may result in electrical contamination inside the MCU. Under federal law, Tesla is required to correct any defect that is related to or arises from a recalled component. This obligation is clearly stated in 49 U.S. Code Section 30120 and 49 CFR Section 573.6. The adhesive leakage and display delamination meet the definition of a related safety defect under 49 CFR Section 573.5(c) because the problem is connected to the same system that was recalled and repaired. A manufacturer performing a recall repair must return the system to safe operating condition. Tesla is therefore responsible for verifying and correcting any new or worsening safety defect identified during or after recall service. Tesla’s own internal Service Bulletin SB-21-17-003 confirms this obligation. It states that if display delamination, bubbling, or adhesive leakage is observed, the entire MCU assembly must be replaced. The service department’s statement that Tesla is “not obligated” to inspect or replace the screen is incorrect and contradicts both federal recall requirements and Tesla’s own technical documentation.

I was parking the car and gently tapped on the accelerator to inch forward. The car accelerated suddenly, crashed into a concrete sign holder, and knocked down a sign, until I was able to stop it using the breaks. The accident caused $5000 worth of damage that I paid out of pocket to fix, since I assumed I must have made a mistake. However when I got the car back a month later, unintended acceleration happened AGAIN - under the same circumstances. I was parking and inching forward. I tapped the accelerator and the car accelerated suddenly. This time I was able to stop it before causing any damage. At this point, I KNEW that the first accident was not my error, since it had now happened again, and I was 100% sure that I did nothing wrong. I looked up "unintended acceleration - Tesla" and found examples of the exact same thing happening while parking. I looked for a fix, and it suggested changing the mode of the car to "creep." This so far has worked well.

My car is equipped with Full Self Driving. When I use that mode the car drives over , on, or dangerously close to the middle yellow line. Basically it drives you into oncoming traffic every single time I use it. It also has erratic fluctuations in throttle control that would confuse other drivers and possibly cause an accident. It’s constantly increasing and decreasing the throttle and feels jerky going down the road. I took the car to the Tesla Service center yesterday and they confirmed the issue and checked the hardware associated with the system. They indicated that the hardware was all working and adjusted properly and that the issue is a software issue. They told me to not use it and that eventually maybe Tesla will put out an update that may fix the problem. Tesla has sold thousands of cars with FSD and continues to call the system in BETA. They have since moved on to 2 more versions of the software and not offered an upgrade to the thousands of early adopters with the original hardware and software. The system is dangerous to drivers and everyone on or near the roadways when these are activated. Tesla said that can upgrade these “older” 2015 and newer models but haven’t because it will cost too much for them. They charged over $8000 for the system and it has yet to work. They need to be forced recall the system and fix these cars for everyone’s safety. The service manager told me he has a similar issue with car and he just opts to not use it. So even the employees at Tesla know of the issue.

Car was making a rattling noise and no indication on the car indicating that it was a suspension issue. Drove for a few months without realizing that it was a suspension and hence a safety problem. Took it to the Tesla Service Center and they diagnosed as a suspension problem and said that it was unsafe to drive the car. The repair at Tesla to replace the links (aft, fore, sway bar) and spring/damper assembly was $5809.71;

The center touchscreen in my Tesla Model S developed a yellow discoloration and later began leaking a sticky fluid from the edges of the display. This fluid appears to be seeping from inside the screen and emits a noticeable odor. The touchscreen is the primary interface for controlling most of the vehicle’s safety-critical systems, including the backup camera, gear selection, climate control, lights, and driver assistance settings. The leak causes visible streaking and distortion on the display. This directly impacts the rearview camera feed — making it harder to see obstacles or pedestrians when reversing — which is a federally mandated safety feature under FMVSS 111. The problem worsens in hot weather and may result in fluid dripping onto electronics below, creating an electrical hazard or sudden display failure while driving. This appears to be a known design flaw in which the adhesive or seal inside the display fails over time. The issue can impair visibility of safety alerts, rearview camera images, and vehicle status, posing a significant safety risk to occupants and others.

While the car is parked and locked the rear driver side door opens in its own. The door handle does not present itself and is scheduled for repair. This is new and started happening today. Despite how many times I close it. It opens on it own. The door is locked when this happens. Door sitting still. Plugged in to charge and locked. The door opens on its own. It unlatches, Does not fully open.

I was backing out of a parking space and the front driver side fore link broke. Internet search reveals this is a known issue associated with Tesla Model S during the period mine was manufactured (February 2016), caused an investigation & service bulletin from the NHTSA, and a recall in China, hence I wanted to report this occurence.

My driver's side of the vehicle looks like it's melting. I was informed by the service advisor at Tesla that this is a common issue, and the computer needs to be replaced at my expense.

on 5/20/25, I had my Tesla repaired as I had suspension issues. They repaired my car to rectify my suspension for both my front and rear tires. Then on 6/12/25, I was driving on the highway and going about 70-75 mph when I heard a huge pop. No warning indicators came on and something did not feel right. I figured nothing else came of it. I was about 30 miles away from home and when I got home, my tire was pushed inward. I was concerned on whether this was related to a bad repair since it was so soon to my previous repair and they indicated that they did not touch that area. After they saw my video, they indicated that the lower control arm of my rear tire broke and they indicated that this was just a damaged component. My biggest concern is that if this issue was not related to the repair work done a month ago, this could be bigger issue as I could have been very concerning that this part broke when I was driving at high speeds and I think it's warranted to check on the quality of the component. In my 40 plus years of driving, I have never experienced this happened to me. If you need documentation or video of how the tire and the axle looks, I can forward it to you. The vehicle has only been inspected by the Tesla Dealership service center and as stated earlier, there weren't any warning signs or messages that showed as I specifically was looking for it when I heard the loud pop.

I wanted to bring a situation to your attention, report an incident and understand why model years 2012-2020 Tesla Model Ss have not been recalled for a defective drive unit. This is a known defect - known by Tesla. There have been no recalls for mine - VIN number [XXX] . On [XXX], my 2016 Tesla Model S suddenly lunged and jerked down to less than 5 mph from about 45 mph in 5-10 seconds as a result of a defective and failed drive unit, here in San Ramon , CA. NO WARNING. We forced the car to lunge and hop over to the median with traffic stopping, building up, honking, braking....truly a miracle no one got hurt. I later saw both front and back wheels turning in OPPOSITE directions, simultaneously, as the tow truck driver was pulling the car on his flat bed. The tow truck driver said he has never seen anything like this! The defective drive unit has been a known issue which they corrected in 2020. A Master Tesla mechanic states that this is not about IF the failure was to take place, but WHEN it was going to take place. Tesla refuses to own up to the problem despite emailing their Head, Tom Zhu. I came across this conversation on Reddit and it appears that a comment made by the Tesla mechanic below is relevant. They could have prevented this by recalling the cars and changing the coolant seal. Here is his quote: "Every single large Tesla Drive unit will fail unless it's a recent revision U replacement (~2022 or newer) or has been retrofitted by a 3rd party. This applies to all RWD Model S made between 2012 and 2020, and all Performance S/X made until 2020. The coolant seal will fail and destroy the motor. This is not an if, but a when. If you have a car with one of these motors, there are a variety of 3rd party shops who can fix this issue forever for a lot less money than a fully dead motor. An attorney on this thread commented on a 2015 Tesla Model S: "This is a known issue with older Model S/X cars, yes. A 2015 is HIGHLY at risk of that. Also, a INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION

THE CENTER TOUCHSCREEN IS LEAKING A STICKY GLUE-LIKE SUBSTANCE AND HAS VISIBLE BUBBLES FORMING INSIDE THE SCREEN. THIS AFFECTS VISIBILITY AND OPERATION OF ESSENTIAL VEHICLE FUNCTIONS LIKE HVAC, NAVIGATION, AND DEFROST CONTROLS. THIS ISSUE IS WORSEN WITH HEAT EXPOSURE. THE SCREEN ALSO FREEZES RANDOMLY.

While driving on the highway at maximum speed limit, I had a series of error messages that covered the complete screen. At the same time, my MPH dropped to zero although I was traveling probably 70 miles per hour. I had no control over the vehicle, no steering, I had no brakes. There was no way to control the car. Fortunately, I was traveling in a low populated area of the [XXX] between Los Angeles and Las Vegas in the far right lane, as I was preparing to exit less than a mile to a Super Charger Station. I was able to get off that exit but since the odometer had a 0 reading, I had no idea what speed I was still traveling at. When I reached the end of the freeway exit, I was unable to stop the vehicle at the stop sign, running it while attempting with all of my strength to veer to the right on to a desolate road. The only thing that saved the car from running the stop sign at what I can only guess would have been 60 mph was a slight incline in the off ramp which slowed the car to about half that when I managed to make the turn. From there, I coasted to a rolling stop about 200 ft from exit, half on shoulder, half stilI on road. I was not able to put the car in park nor see what gear the car was in due to the flashing warnings blocking the display screen. I could not use the hazard lights, the gear shift, power off, open glove box, turn off display, open trunk, as if it was in D. Once exited, no way to get back in the car. Tesla ER Service only able to tow next A.M. to nearest S C, 85 miles at my expense. Sat in car as getting dark, cold along desolate road with no services, until my ride could get me over 4 hrs or stay in car overnight with temps of 20°. After 2 days at Tesla, told steering rack failed, $4,900. Any other time, I would have plowed into the car in front of me at 70mph with no way to stop or steer away. Only prevented by the empty freeway I just happened to be traveling. Tesla claims to have no idea why this part failed at this low mileage. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMAT

The contact owns a 2016 Tesla Model S. The contact stated while attempting to park the vehicle, the brake pedal was depressed and failed to respond. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact depressed the brake and the vehicle kept rolling forward. The contact opened the door for the vehicle to come to a stop. On another occasion, the contact stated that the ADAS feature engaged and while driving at various speeds, and the vehicle failed to recognize stop signs, traffic lights, or pedestrians. The contact stated that the function was a paid feature; however, the system failed to operate as designed. On another occasion, the contact stated that the steering will shift to one side while driving at various speeds, and the vehicle became difficult to steer. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer to be diagnosed or repaired. The dealer was made aware, and the contact had a pending appointment scheduled. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 79,000.

The Trunk/Hatchback failed to open. When I attempted to use the EMERGENCY release ( which you would expect to work in a real emergency) IT DID NOT WORK!! The truck would not open. How can you have an emergency release cord that does not work?!! And they are now charging to repair this!

My car slams on the brakes consistently at green lights when FSD is activated. This is version 12.5.4.2 of FSD. Tesla is not responding to my inquiries.

The accelerating pedal is the one that was affect it is available upon request for inspection. It put me in danger because while I was driving, it snapped off. Has not been inspected by others. There was no warning lamps and it just happened out of nowhere as well. I was driving.

Component Failure: The Tesla NEMA 14-50 charging adapter for my 2016 Model S malfunctioned, causing overheating that melted a prong and led to an electrical fire. The defective adapter appears identical to those in Tesla's November 2016 recall, though mine was designated "not affected." The damaged adapter and charging cable are available for inspection. Safety Risk: This malfunction created a serious fire hazard endangering myself and my property. The electrical fire damaged both my vehicle and charging equipment, and the fire could have spread to my home, potentially endangering my family and neighbors. Verification: I took the damaged adapter to the Tesla Service Center in Colorado Springs, where technicians acknowledged the damage but refused to replace it under the recall. They visually confirmed the melted prong and fire damage. Manufacturer Response: After the incident, I contacted Tesla Corporate requesting replacement of the defective equipment. They responded that they don't believe the electrical fire was caused by the defective plug, despite physical evidence showing the same issue as recalled units. Warning Signs: Prior to failure, I noticed intermittent charging interruptions and the adapter becoming unusually hot. These symptoms began approximately three weeks before the fire incident. There were no dashboard warnings about potential charging equipment issues.

In December of 2023, my RIGHT rear axle broke when I accidently hit a curb. The car was repaired at the Tesla collision center. On last Tuesday, November 12, 2024, I heard a noise while braking. I continued to drive, but next time I needed to use brakes, I had a sensation that the brakes were failing, and I wouldn't be able to stop. The brakes eventually engaged, and I was able to stop the vehicle. I went on an expressway and drove as slowly as possible, maintaining a long distance from the vehicles in front of me and using regenerative braking as much as possible, being aware of a possibility of brakes failure. I got home safely on that day, however, the next day, when I was backing out of the garage, I heard a screeching noise. When I inspected the vehicle, I discovered that the LEFT rear wheel was misaligned, looking exactly like the right rear wheel after the right rear axle broke. Although this defect hasn't been inspected by a technician yet, I am virtually certain that it's the same problem that I had before, now occurring on the opposite side. This means that I was likely driving with a broken axle, which could've resulted in a serious accident. As I mentioned, this is the second instance of the same defect affecting my vehicle, which, in my opinion, is indicative of a serious manufacturing defect that needs to be addressed. The vehicle hasn't been repaired yet and is available for inspection. There were no warning lamps, messages or other symptoms prior to the failure.

The latches for the rear passenger doors of a Model S are electric and do not function in the event the vehicle loses electrical power from the 12v system. A mechanical release is provided in the rear of interior passenger compartment. However the release pulls are located under the carpeting and no labelling is provided and no instructions are posted. The emergency door release pulls consistent of plastic tab about 1-inch long by 0.5-inch wide and connected to a release cable. The plastic tab color is black, under the carpeting, and within an area coated in black coloring. The location of the release is below the rear seating above the floor boards, behind the rear passengers' footwell. The location is not intuitive or obvious and likely could not be located without reading the owner's manual, which passengers are unlikely to do. The location is not labeled inside the vehicle. The tab is small and black, under the carpeting that has to be moved to locate the tab, and provided with a black background. Passengers of limited mobility would not be able to locate and access the pull tabs to release the doors. Small children would not able able to locate and access the pull tabs without climbing off the seat and into the footwell. The pull force must be directed to the center of the vehicle. No mechanic exterior door releases are provided. In an emergency where the vehicle is without 12v electrical power, opening a rear passenger door would require an open rear window, or breaking the window to open access, climbing partially into the vehicle to the other side of the passenger's legs, locating the release below the carpeting, and pulling the release while simultaneously pulling the door outward to open. No labelling for this process is provide, nor is this maneuver detailing in the owner's manual. This level of detail is also missing from the, First Responders Reference: "INFORMATION FOR FIRST AND SECOND RESPONDERS EMERGENCY RESPONSE GUIDE TESLA MODEL S ELECTRIC".

The contact owns a 2016 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while turning into a parking spot, there was an unintended acceleration of the vehicle; it surged forward, jumped the parking barrier, and crashed into a wall. There were no warning lights illuminated. A police report was filed. There was no reported fire, injuries, or air bag deployment. The vehicle was towed to a body shop. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 93,000.

Touch screen has bubbles and could become unusable

The infotainment unit in the car that controls functionality, I.e. navigation used to monitor battery availability is malfunctioning because of glue seeping from the unit and causing the screen to go black intermittently while driving creating a safety hazard for the driver and others due to a distraction. When this happens the driver loses visibility to navigation and other controls central to the vehicle functionality. Tesla is aware of this manufacturing defect that is a safety concern because it requires the driver to not focus on the road.

Turned right into garage slowly. Car suddenly accelerated very fast by itself. I swerved and avoided 1 parked vehicle. Was not able to avoid another one. I braked. The car stopped. Airbags had gone off.

I was slowly backing up to charge my car and heard a thump then my wheel was rubbing against the wheel well. When I looked under the wheel to see what was happening, I discover the metal suspension had snapped off. This was the front passenger side.

On September 7th, 2024 around 7:35 PM, my tesla model S 2016 Suddenly accelerated, smashed in the siding of my house breaking the the siding of the wall and was totaled. All of this happened while my mom was trying to park the car in the garage the car suddenly took off without her pressing the accelerator. I have tesla to send an engeneer to collect the data of the car in which they said they did but have not yet gotten back to me on the issue. They informed me that they have collected the data on 09/20/2024

2016 Model S started making clunking sounds when turning and braking. Tesla service center inspected the vehicle and observed visible defects on the front left and right fore and aft links. Tesla recommended replacement of and quoted almost $2000 for parts and labor, including inspection fee. Vehicle only has 89000 miles and never had high impact incidents over obstacles.

The contact owns a 2016 Tesla Model S. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V838000 (Electrical System) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was not contacted. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

Received and OTA notice on the dashboard that states "Battery Fuse replacement" is required. The fuse is due to a Li-ion battery that wears out for a safety system. Life expectancy of the battery is 10 years. It has not lasted 8 full years. This is stated as a safety issue and Tesla has since redesigned this item to not required the batteries. I have alerted Tesla about this issue, have not had a reply, as yet. The vehicle can be operated without this safety device, which seems inappropriate. I feel this should be replaced under warranty and/or recall - but it appears Tesla will want to charge an excessive amount of money.

The lower control arm on my left rear tire broke. Specifically, the aluminum of the knuckle joint snapped. This occured in my driveway while backing up. This caused extensive damage to the rest of the rear left suspension.

1.) Passenger Side Door is a potential hazard. Door latch and door mechanism does not open from the outside. 2.) Lane keep assist on Autopilot veers off to the right when it is first engaged and does not want to stay centered until it's been on for awhile.

Incident Tesla Model S was up to date on recalls as far as we can tell, including the recent autopilot update via Tesla internet vehicle update releases. While driving in autopilot mode on the freeway in the lane next to the HOV lane, the autopilot got confused as to which lane it should keep and failed to maintain its lane. Incident vehicle drifted across the double lines into the HOV lane, where another Tesla Model S was driving. Both cars were damaged in the ensuing side bump impact, then the incident vehicle made a slight impact to another car rear bumper in front of the incident vehicle. No injuries were reported. A subsequent Traffic Crash Report was filed as required with CA Highway Patrol. We are awaiting this report in the mail. Our safety and others was put at risk due to the failure of the autopilot to maintain its lane. Insurance was contacted. The insurance company, USAA, has deemed the incident vehicle (our vehicle) damage too expensive to fix due to the very high cost of replacement/repair parts and has deemed our vehicle a "total loss." We have not been able to access the software of the vehicle. Since USAA has deemed the vehicle a total loss, they are selling the car for salvage and thus we have no further access to the vehicle for legal purposes. As far as I know, USAA has not pulled the vehicle software records nor has requested such records and has completely ignored the autopilot issue. That is part of the reason for our complaint here as well. Since there were no injuries, legal representation in this case has not been forthcoming. We ask the NHTSA to investigate since we can get no help from Tesla, USAA or any other legal advocate.

The contact owns a 2016 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while driving at undisclosed speeds, the instrument cluster became inoperable on several occasions. The contact stated that the failure had occurred several times. The vehicle was taken to the dealer; however, the contact was informed that the failure would reoccur unless the vehicle was updated with a new infotainment center and a faster processor. In addition, the contact stated that the vehicle had been taken to the dealer several times due to the failure. The contact stated that recently the instrument cluster and the ECM were replaced. In addition, the vehicle recently received a software update. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but provided no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 73,000.

Vehicle Error: Parking brake not applied/Vehicle may free roll. This issue appeared to be covered by the attached recall, but the service center indicated that it did not apply to my vehicle. Therefore, they charged me for the repair. I do not understand this as the recalled vehicle criteria seems to match my vehicle information. Are you able to evaluate whether this recall should apply to my vehicle? Thank you. Repair Notes: Installed Vehicle Set of Wheels. Replaced RH Park Brake Rear Brake Caliper. Replaced LH Park Brake Rear Brake Caliper.

Tesla has refused to fix safety recall items. They asked me to replace the cluster own my own so i can receive updates.

Left front lower link suspension component broke at low speed. Wheel moved aft and contacted sharp metal in the wheel well causing tire damage.

When I was driving in the parking lot and turned to park at a parking spot I heard a sound from the passenger side front wheel. After I heard the sound the wheel felt stuck and was not moving freely. There were two other passengers in the car along with the driver. This is the second time that this happened. It happened first on Oct 2021 when the car's mileage was 51k and the second time when the mileage was 77k. The Model S was purchased in 2016. Tesla service center fixed it the first time and the repair listed the following 1>Fore Link Assembly LH(1041570-00-B) 2>Washer Nordlock(1033093-00-A) 3>Nut HF M14x1.50 ZnNi NL Insert(1004358-00-C) Tesla charged me $495 for it. The second time this happened the damage was a lot more extensive and Tesla recommended I take the car to a Tesla-approved body shop. I took the car to Brooks Automotive in Fremont and they charged me $10,000 for the repairs. My insurance refused to pay for the damages after I filed a claim with the insurance. Tesla refused to pay for it claiming it was not a manufacturing defect and the car was not under warranty. This car is driven by me and my wife and neither of us are rash drivers. We did not hit any debris on the road or remember an incident that could have led to this happening not once but twice. The car has been driven normally and used for normal family activities on public paved roads.

The contact owns a 2016 Tesla Model S. The contact stated while driving 25 MPH and coming up on a fork in the road, the autopilot system was not activated, the vehicle suddenly veered to the right independently, requiring the contact to quickly redirect the vehicle towards the intended route. Later, during a separate incident while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost all motive and electrical power. The contact was able to coast to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to restart. The contact also stated that she had previously become aware that there was condensation building inside the instrument panel as well as the center display and that the dealer had been notified but failed to address her concern. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who was unable to duplicate the failure, insisting that the autopilot system was likely activated. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

1. The component that failed was the parking brake. This failure occurred immediately after leaving the Ballard Way Tesla Supercharger. Tesla in Lynnwood, WA, replaced one of the parts on [XXX]. I am unsure if the replaced part is available for inspection, as I did not retain it. The other brake caliper, which has not been replaced, has not shown issues but is available for inspection. 2. The safety risk was significant as the parking brake malfunction rendered my vehicle immovable, causing a traffic obstruction immediately after use and again on the road, potentially endangering myself, other motorists, and pedestrians due to the unexpected immobilization of my vehicle in traffic. 3. Yes, the problem was acknowledged by the Tesla service center in Lynnwood, WA, which replaced one of the malfunctioning parking brake components on [XXX], thereby confirming the malfunction. There was also confirmation of recall 17V-260 and that my vehicle was experiencing the same symptoms. 4. The vehicle was inspected and serviced by the manufacturer's service center (Tesla in Lynnwood, WA). There were no inspections conducted by police, insurance representatives, or other parties as far as I am aware. 5. Yes, there were intermittent issues with the parking brake being unresponsive when attempting to park the car a few days prior to the incident at Ballard Way. Although the physical brake had not locked up until the incident occurred, the parking brake fault warning did appear intermittently, indicating a potential issue before the complete failure experienced on the day of the incident. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Power steering failed suddenly and without any alert on the dashboard. I called Tesla support & they said this is a known problem for which the immediate but only short term fix is to fully power off the car, wait at least 2 minutes & then restart the car. They advised me to do this and then drive the car to a Tesla service center for analysis and repair.