2012 Ford Edge Electrical System Problems

The first incident occurred in GA on vacation in June. While my spouse was driving, he said the brakes seemed squishy and were not right. When he braked to stop the car to get gas, his foot went almost to the floor. After getting gas, I drove and they did not seem right. The second incident happened the beginning of August and I was coming down a relatively steep hill. I went to brake and my foot went all the way to the floor and did not completely stop. I took the car to my mechanic and he wasn't sure of the problem, and to another mechanic. The 2nd thought it was the brake booster. I then took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it last August and had them look at it. They said it is the ABS module and that I am #829 on the list of 1300 people that need that part, that Ford has no idea when it will be available. The third incident was last Sat, [XXX] and I had No Brakes At All, so I had to take my husband's car to work. In All the incidents, I was at risk, as well as my family and the people driving in front & back of me. I have also had issues of the AC coming in for NO Reason, and after I turn it down, it turns itself back on at full blast. This car is NOT SAFE. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

There was no warning stated in the dash, but I went to drive my car one day and the brakes were sunk to the floor. I drove it around carefully for a little bit and realized the brake pedal built pressure if it was constantly being pressed, however, it would lose the pressure instantly. I got the brakes bled and replaced a brake line since I had replaced both of the rear calipers prior (no issues there and no issues with brake pads or the brakes themselves). A few weeks went by and I lost the pressure again instantly. I called the mechanic to take a look and they replaced the brake booster and master cylinder and bled the brakes. The brake lines/hoses were fine with no leaks. I picked the vehicle up and the brake pedal is still soft and mushy with no pressure building. I am scared to drive it in case I accidentally hit someone and it is currently winter (snow & ice). I have new tires but I fear the brakes will give out on me soon. I don’t think these parts are up for inspection or whether the issue is with the abs module or the HCU, but it appears to be a common issue with 2012 ford edges and other years. The time frame for this is all within 10 weeks since I wasn’t driving my vehicle for about 4 weeks.

2012 Ford Edge -The passenger door will shut but the alarm that came with the car says that the door is not shut. The alarm will not work when the car detects the door is not shut, so the interior lights will not turn off. Will this affect my battery? When I drive with the sensor on the dashboard states the door is not closed and the interior light will not shut off which becomes a distraction at night. When driving the car, the locks will not work because the dashboard senses the door is not closed. This is a family car with a child still in a car seat. Anyone can jump in my car? There a lot of blogs I found with the same situation, so Ford must know that the problem exists. The door has not been damaged. This is not part of wear and tear because a door is something that need to open and close. The situation is getting worse and worse that when im driving the dashboard announces the closed door is now open and unlocks all my doors and turns on my interior lights on.

APIM failure ACM failure FCIM failure APIM Replaced

The door ajar sensor is faulty. The lights stay on in the car even after the door is closed. This is a safety risk when driving at night. While driving the audible ding will go off while driving causing a distraction from driving. There was a recall issued but it has expired even though the issue is still existent. Ford says they will not cover the cost of the repair because it is expired even though we received no notification of the recall.

Driver side door ajar warning light is lit up on dash even though door is closed and latched.

Apim blank, black dead

the throttle body has failed, suspected by me doing research going back 11 years of the Ford Edge almost killing people while driving it. confirmed by my local ford dealership that i do infact need a new throttle body and gaskets. it goes into limp mode, the car loses power and stops working in the middle of driving 50 mph. No check engine light remains on, only a wrench icon appears until you restart the car, then the car works again for another 30 miles or until it wants to cause a major accident again. This is a HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. My car will jolt down to 10 mph, as if I slammed the brakes, while driving, not even having my foot on the gas, down the HIGHWAY where the speed limit it 55. THIS IS A KILLING MACHINE. I only have moments to pull over to the median or somewhere before I cause a major accident. They have recalled the 2009 through 2013 ford fusion and escape, as well as the milan and mariner because of the same issue. I have read hundreds of accounts online of the same thing happening in Edges... how can you allow this to go unchecked.

2 months after I purchased this vehicle in 2021, I noticed soft brakes, the vehicle displayed low oil pressure it locked up and turned off. Proper oil was added and the brakes appeared normal afterwards. Around mid August 2022, I noticed that when I put pressure on brakes to slow the vehicle, the peddle would sink slowly to the floor and hard to slow vehicle down. So brakes were inspected and the rear brake pads were worn all the way down and the front brakes were like new.. All four brake pads were replaced with new pads. Well this did not correct the problem. I would still hear a swoosh from the brake peddle when releasing and brakes continued to slowly sink to floor.. So the master cylinder and the vacuum booster were replaced, brake lines were bled over 10 times and problem was still not corrected. No warning lights ever reflected on the vehicle. Now the vehicle will mot start and now i have to tow to repair shop. When I started looking up issues regarding my 2012 Ford Edge SEL, tan color. I noticed this has been a reoccurring issue with this make/model. Also, no repair/recall stickers were attached to the vehicle to address this issue. I purchased this vehicle August 2021 from a dealer in Wilmington, NC.

I was driving the car approximately 35 MPH the car completely shut down. A couple of days later while accelerating from a stop sign it completely shut off again.

This is my 20 year old daughter's car. She attends college in another state. Recently, the door ajar light comes on and will not go off. This prevents her from locking her doors, all of them! Not while driving, and not when parked. The closes all doors and tries to lock the car, and the passenger side "door ajar" light remains on, even though the door is closed and shut tight. The repair to this issue is replacing the entire door latch mechanism and costs over $500 at the dealer. I would do it myself, but the Ford door assembly is very complicated and must be done in a precise manner. Right now, the car is parked as my daughter is on a summer trip. The interior lights are always on, so the battery has been drained and is now dead. It will not take a charge. So, I need a new battery before I can even work on the door. I believe this is a safety issue because the doors cannot be locked. The security alarm cannot be activated, and most importantly, my daughter cannot lock herself safely inside if she was being pursued by an attacker. Criminals could also ransack her belongings from the unlocked vehicle and homeless vagrants could sneak inside as well. Ford needs to recall all these Ford Edge's with this problem. I'm told it's the 3rd most popular complaint on the forums.

MY DOOR AJAR MESSAGE STAYS ON,DOOR IS NOT AJAR WHILE DRIVING BUT DOME LITES STAY ON AFTER THE CAR IS OFF FOR A WHILE BEFORE THE LITES FINALLY SHUT OFF, BAD SWITCH OR SENSOR, IF SO HOW CAN THIS BE FIXED, BEFORE MY BATTERY WEARS DOWN? THIS ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I USE THE DRIVERS SIDE PASSENGER DOOR! THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON NOW FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS!

HEADLIGHTS HAVE BURNED OUT 3 TIMES IN THE PAST 2 YEARS. BOTH HEADLIGHTS BURN OUT. BOTH HIGH AND LOW BEAMS BURN OUT AT THE SAME TIME. BOTH HEADLIGHTS WERE REPLACED WITHIN 3 MONTHS AND 1 HAS ALREADY BURNED OUT. THE DEALER IS RECOMMENDING REPLACEMENT OF BOTH ASSEMBLIES AT ACOST OF 1400+. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN INVOLVED IN ANY ACCIDENT INVOLVING THIS AREA.

MY VEHICLE EXHIBITS ILLUMINATED DOME LIGHTS AND DOOR AJAR MESSAGES WHEN DOORS ARE FULLY CLOSED. I GET ERROR MESSAGES INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING OF DOOR AJAR NOTIFICATION AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WILL COME ON UNEXPECTEDLY WHILE DRIVING. THE INTERIOR DOME LIGHTS ALSO STAY ILLUMINATED EVEN WHEN I HAVE TURNED THE CAR OFF AND LOCKED THE DOORS, DRAINING BATTERY. I HAVE RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF FORD'S VOLUNTARY EXTENSION OF DOOR LATCH WARRANTY THROUGH JULY 2020. THIS IS A KNOWN DEFECT. MY CAR BEGAN EXHIBITING THE DEFECT IN NOVEMBER 2020. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE AS I AM ALARMED AND CANNOT SEE WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS SUDDENLY POP ON. I ALSO FEAR MY CHILD WILL OPEN THE DOOR WHILE DRIVING AS THE "LOCK" FEATURE IS UNRELIABLE DUE TO THE DEFECT. IN ADDITION, IT IS UNSAFE FOR ME TO PARK MY VEHICLE AT NIGHT NOT KNOWING IF I WILL HAVE A DRAINED BATTERY LATER BECAUSE THERE IS NO WAY TO SHUT OFF THE INTERIOR LIGHTS.

MY DRIVER SIDE REAR DOOR SENSOR KEEPS SAYING IT IS OPEN WHEN IT ISN'T. THIS CAUSES ME TO DRIVE WITH THE LIGHT ON UNTIL IT EVENTUALLY TURNS OFF. WHEN I PARK AND LOCK THE CAR THE DOME LIGHT STAYS ON FOR A LONG WHILE. AND THE ALARM EVEN BEEPS TWICE TELLING ME THE LIGHT IS ON/IT THINKS THE DOOR IS STILL OPEN WHEN IT'S NOT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 FORD EDGE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR LIGHTS CEASED TO OPERATE, WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND PARKED AT A LOCAL GAS STATION. THE CONTACT HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO EVERGREEN FORD LINCOLN (1500 18TH AVE NW, ISSAQUAH, WA 98027) WHERE THEY DISCOVERED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD A DEFECTIVE WIRING HARNESS THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER OFFERED TO REPLACE THE WIRING HARNESS WITH A USED ONE HOWEVER, THE CONTACT DECLINED THE REPAIR. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 115,000. *BF *TR

SAFETY ISSUE DOOR AJAR LIGHT NOT TURNING OFF WHEN DOOR IS CLOSED. DOORS WILL NOT LOCK WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION POSING A SAFETY THREAT TO FAMILY. BATTERY HAS DIED MULTIPLE DAYS TIMES AND REPLACEMENT WAS NECESSARY.

BRAKE PEDAL SOMETIMES GOES SOFT, SOMETIMES HAVE TO PUMP BRAKES TO STOP. BRAKE PEDAL IS SOMETIMES NOT WORKING WHEN CAR SITS FOR LONGER THAN 24HRS. HAD COMPLAINED TO FORD, UNABLE TO DUPLICATE ISSUE. PROBLEM 2. SOMETIMES ALARM GOES OFF RANDOMLY WHILE PARKED. DOOR SENSOR WILL SOMETIMES SAY DOOR OPEN WHEN IT IS CLOSED AND LOCKED. PROBLEM 3 TOUCH SCREEN SOMETIMES SLOW, UNRESPONSIVE OR DOES NOT COME ON AT ALL.

DRIVER DOOR SENSOR KEEPS SHOWING DOOR AJAR WHEN DOOR IS CLOSED

THIS IS NOW MY SECOND DOOR TO HAVE THIS ISSUE. THE "DOOR AJAR" MESSAGE/ALERT COMES ON WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED. THE FIRST TIME WAS DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER DOOR. THIS TIME IS THE DRIVER DOOR. THIS MESSAGE DOES NOT GO AWAY WHEN I DRIVE. IT TELLS ME TO SHIFT TO PARK. IT CHIMES AT ME EVERY TIME I COME TO A STOP. IT MAKES MY DOME LIGHTS STAY ON. MOST IMPORTANTLY, MY DOORS DO NOT LOCK WHILE DRIVING. I HAVE TWO CHILDREN IN THE VEHICLE WITH ME. WHEN I RUN INTO A STORE AND MY DAUGHTER STAYS IN THE CAR, SHE IS NOT ABLE TO LOCK THE DOORS WHILE I AM OUT. THIS IS VERY UNSAFE! FROM WHAT I SEE ONLINE THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE. I AM DISTRACTED BY DRIVING WITH ALL OF THESE THINGS GOING ON ALL THE TIME. I WAS JUST QUOTED $450 TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. FIXING THIS ISSUE FOR THE 2ND TIME. DIFFERENT DOOR, SO, TWO MORE TO GO! THIS NEEDS TO BE FIXED AND RECALLED.