2007 Ford Fusion Powertrain & Transmission Problems

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Fusion. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V001000 (Air Bags) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle hesitated to accelerate. The air bag and check engine warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle later failed to be started. The vehicle was towed to the residence by AAA, who attempted to jumpstart the vehicle, but the vehicle failed to start. AAA related the failure to the transmission; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but confirmed that the air bag parts were on backorder. The failure mileage was unknown. Parts distribution disconnect.

THE CAR NEVER GAVE ANY INDICATION OF A PROBLEM. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, SMOKING, NOT EVEN OIL USAGE FOR THAT MATTER. I CHECKED THE OIL EVERY TIME I GOT GAS BECAUSE I BOUGHT IT 3 WEEKS PRIOR. THEN WAS DRIVING TO INTERSTATE TO WORK WHEN I HEAR JT START CLICKING IMMEDIATELY GOT A OIL LIGHT THEN DIES AND WAS STUCK ON INTERSTATE CARS ZOOMOMG BY AT 80 IF I WERE IN THE CENTER LANE I WOULD BE DEAD.

MY ISSUE IS WHAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE ALREADY COMPLAINED ABOUT - THE SHIFTING IS EXTREMELY ROUGH, TO THE POINT IT'S NOW UNDRIVABLE AND UNSAFE. THE 'WRENCH' LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAVE JUST COME ON, ALTHOUGH THE SLIPPING OF GEARS HAS GONE ON FOR QUITE A WHILE. THIS SEEMS TO BE A VERY COMMON ISSUE. MOST PEOPLE CAN'T AFFORD TO SPEND $3-4K TO GET THE TRANSMISSION REBUILT.

WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON A DRY, PAVED ROAD, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ACTIVATED WHILE PASSING AND THE VEHICLE'S RPMS FLUCTUATED BETWEEN 500 AND 2000 WITH BARELY ANY ENGINE POWER. VEHICLE WAS PULLED OVER, TURNED OFF, TURNED BACK ON AGAIN, AND APPEARED TO RESUME NORMAL OPERATION. VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A MECHANIC AND THROUGH TESTING THEY IDENTIFIED THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE HAD MELTED SEVERAL ENGINE COILS AND SPARK PLUGS. BEFORE REPLACING THE MODULE, ALL NEW SPARK PLUGS AND ENGINE COILS WERE ADDED AND THE CAR WAS STARTED UP. IT EXHIBITED THE SAME BEHAVIOR BEFORE THE COILS AND PLUGS WERE REPLACED, AND FOR THE BRIEF TIME IT WAS ACTUALLY ON, IT MELTED ANOTHER NEW COIL. TSB FOR THE 07 FUSION WAS CONFIRMED AND THE PCM WAS REPLACED ALONG WITH ALL NEW COILS. PCM WAS TAKEN TO THE FORD DEALER FOR REPROGRAMMING. REPLACEMENT AND REPROGRAMMING OF PCM AND ALL 6 COILS AND SPARK PLUGS FIXED THE ISSUE. VEHICLE HAS 84K MILES ON IT AND SHOULD NOT HAVE THIS SAFETY ISSUE.

WHILE DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY THE WRENCH LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND I EXPERIENCED AN UNEXPECTED, SUDDEN LOSS OF ENGINE POWER AND ACCELERATION. THE VEHICLE RAPIDLY DECREASED IN SPEED FROM HIGHWAY SPEEDS TO BARELY BEING ABLE TO MAINTAIN SPEEDS OF 20MPH. ENGINE POWER AND VEHICLE SPEED ARE SEVERELY AND RAPIDLY REDUCED WITHOUT WARNING WHILE FULL FUNCTION OF THE POWER STEERING, POWER BRAKING, LIGHTING, AND CLIMATE CONTROL SYSTEMS ARE NOT EFFECTED. NO SIGN OF THE ISSUE THE NEXT DAY, ONCE THE CAR IS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON. THIS SEEMS TO BE A WIDESPREAD AND DOCUMENTED PROBLEM WITH THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE BODY INCLUDING AN INVESTIGATION AND TWO SEPARATE "CUSTOMER SATISFACTION PROGRAMS" TO REPAIR MODEL YEARS 2009-2013. APPARENTLY THE SAME THROTTLE BODY PART IS INTERCHANGEABLE FROM YEARS 206-2009 SO LIKELY IT COULD BE WIDESPREAD IN THESE MODEL YEARS. THIS IS INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE A FULL RECALL.

MY 2007 FORD FUSION WAS PURCHASED IN 2011 AND WAS FINANCED, AND I PAID IT OFF IN DECEMBER 2017. IT SINCE THEN ONLY IT HAS A 144,00 MILES. IT WAS PURCHASED WITH LOWER MILEAGE, OF AN ESTIMATION OF 40,000 TO 50,000 MILES ON IT AT FINAL SALE MEANING IT WAS A 2007 CAR, PURCHASED IN 2011, SO THAT'S A PROBLEM WHEN BEFORE IT HAD BEEN PAID OFF, AND MAJOR PROBLEMS OF MANY. I WOULD LIKE A REFUND OF A LESSER EQUAL TO OR EQUAL VALUE TO MY PURCHASED CAR PRICE FROM MANUFACTURE OR DEALERSHIP. THE TWO RECALLS ISSUED THAT I HAVE NOT TAKEN CARE OF YET, AND OTHER PROBLEMS WITH CHEAP MADE INSIDE DOOR HANDLES BROKE EASILY, BEING HARD PLASTIC/METAL, THIS MAKES GETTING OUT OF MY VEHICLE A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUES ALONG WITH THE OTHER ISSUES OF AIRBAGS AND BRAKES AND OTHER SAFETY ISSUES.

MY CAR ROLLS BACK ON A SLIGHT SLOPE AFTER I TAKE MY FOOT OFF OF THE BRAKE. I WAS WAITING TO PULL OUT ONTO THE ROAD. WHY DOES IT MATTER HOW MANY MILES ARE ON THE CARE. IF MY CAR ROLLS BACK AND HITS A CAR IT SHOULDNT MATTER HOW MANY MILES ARE ON THE VEHICLE. IF I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT DUE TO THIS PROBLEM I WOULD FALL BACK ONTO FORD MOTOR COMPANY.

THE SHIFTING KNOB AND THE LINK ROD TO THE TRANSMISSION CAME OUT PREVENTING THE SHIFT LEVER FROM CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION GEARS AS DESIRED. I FOUND IF I PUSH THE UNIT BACK IN THE HOLE AND HOLD A DOWNWARD PRESSURE ON THE KNOB IT WILL OPERATE. HOWEVER IF YOU TOUCH THE KNOB WHILE DRIVING, THE TRANSMISSION WILL SHIFT INTO LOW RANGE CAUSING A JERK TO SLOW DOWN THE VEHICLE. THIS IS PERTINENTLY BAD ON SNOW COVERED SURFACES. I FOUND THERE IS A RECALL ON 2017 FUSION FOR THIS EXACT PROBLEM THE RECALL NUMBER IS 17S36. SAYING THIS SITUATION MAY RESOLVE IN A INJURY OR AN ACCIDENT. I CALLED FORD RECALL AT I-800-392-3673 AND WAS TOLD I HAVE NO CLAIM FOR REPAIR AND THE RECALL IS FOR THE 2017 ONLY. WILL YOU PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS MATTER? I WOULD THINK SAFETY FIRST SHOULD PREVAIL. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

TRANSMISSION WILL NOT SHIFT , WAS IN MOTION

I HAVE A 2007 FORD FUSION WITH 56,000 MILES ON IT THAT IS NOW ON ITS DEATHBED DUE TO FAULTY IGNITION COILS AND PCM. WHY IS THIS NOT A RECALL? IT SEEMS TO BE A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 2007 FORD FUSION

TRANSMISSION SLIPS IN AND OUT OF GEAR. JERKS VOILENTLY INTO PASS GEAR. SLIPS INTO NEUTRAL AND JUST REVS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. COMING DOWN A HILL IT LURCHED FORWARD ALMOST SENDING MY WIFE AND I OFF A CLIFF. VERY DANGEROUS. ITS ALSO A COMMON PROBLEM IM FINDING WITH THE AWF21 TRANNSMISSIONS. SHOULD BE RECALLED BEFORE SOMEONE DIES. NUMEROUS REPORTS OF THESE TRANNYS FAILING OVER THE INTERNET WITH THE EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS. PLEASE HELP.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO HAVE THE CLUTCH REPLACED. WHILE HAVING THE REPAIRS COMPLETED, THE TECHNICIAN FRACTURED A TORQUE MOUNT THAT CONNECTED THE ENGINE TO THE TRANSMISSION. ALL THE PARTS WERE REPLACED ON THE VEHICLE. AFTER THE REPAIRS, WHILE DRIVING IN THE SNOW AND CHANGING LANES, THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL STARTED SPINNING. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT DISCOVERED THAT THE TORQUE MOUNT FRACTURED AGAIN. THE CONTACT HEARD A KNOCKING NOISE IN THE TRANSMISSION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE VEHICLE. THE TORQUE MOUNT WAS REPLACED AGAIN. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 106,000.

AFTER 75K MILES, PTU (POWER TRANSFER UNIT) GEAR INSIDE WENT OUT ON 2007 FORD FUSION AWD AUTO. COST TO REPLACE $2213. NOTICING MANY COMPLAINTS ONLINE WITH FORD AWD PRODUCTS; CALLED FORD MOTOR CO TO ASK FOR RECALL/REIMBURSEMENT BECAUSE I TAKE GREAT CARE OF THE VEHICLE AND FEEL THIS IS A FLAW, NOT A RESULT OF NEGLECT OR MISUSE. JUST PURCHASED 2016 FORD FUSION AWD, NOT AWARE OF THIS ISSUE, SO AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE FEASIBILITY OF IT BEING AN ISSUE LATER SINCE IT DOESN'T APPEAR THEY ARE LOOKING AT CORRECTING THE PROBLEM. TOLD THAT IF I DON'T FIX THIS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL MOST LIKELY GO OUT. WHILE AUTO IS DRIVEABLE, IT IS DANGEROUS TO DO SO - PARTICULARLY ON INTERSTATE/HIGHWAYS, SO I AM HAVING IT FIXED.

THE AUTOMATIC CAR SHIFTED INTO REVERSE WHEN COMING TO A STOP ALL ON ITS OWN. THIS HAPPENED ON A COUNTRY ROUD IT DID THIS THREE TIMES BEFORE THE TRANSMISSION FAILED. ONE OF THE FOUR OCCUPANTS BACK WAS SPRAINED AND DID NOT SEEK IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION BUT STILL MAY HAVE TO.

OUR FORD FUSION SUDDENLY LOST POWER AND STARTING ACTING IN AN UNPREDICTABLE FASHION, WHILE TRAVELING ON RTE 95 NORTH IN THE PASSING LANE. WE NARROWLY AVOIDED A REAR END COLLISION WITH THE VEHICLE BEHIND US, AS WELL AS OTHER VEHICLES AS WE WORKED TO GET OVER TO THE SAFETY OF THE BREAKDOWN LANE. AN ORANGE WRENCH LIGHT WAS IN AN "ON" STATE AND THE CAR WAS RUNNING VERY ROUGH. AFTER CHECKING ALL GAUGES AND FLUIDS, I RESTARTED THE CAR AND FOUND IT TO BE IN A NORMAL STATE AGAIN, WITH NO WRENCH LIGHT VISIBLE. WE TURNED AROUND AND HEADED HOME. THIS CONDITION OCCURRED ONE MORE TIME ABOUT 45 MILES LATER, JUST A FEW MILES FROM OUR HOME, SAME RESULT. I RESEARCHED THE ISSUE AND FOUND THAT THE NHTSA IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AND HAS BEEN ASKED TO FIX OVER 1 MILLION CARS EXHIBITING THE SAME ISSUE. I CONTACTED FORD, AS RECOMMENDED IN A REPORT I DISCOVERED ONLINE. THEIR RESPONSE WAS THAT, WHILE THEY WERE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND THE PROBLEMS IT CAUSES, OUR 2007 FUSION WAS NOT COVERED AND WE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPAIRS. THIS ISSUE JUST OCCURRED TODAY, THEREFORE I HAVE NO DOCUMENTATION, OTHER THAN WHAT IS AVAILABLE ON MANY WEBSITES AND BLOGS, DOCUMENTED BY OTHER FORD OWNERS, COMPLAINING OF THE SAME ISSUE. AM I TO UNDERSTAND THAT OF THE MILLION PLUS CARS HAVING THIS PROBLEM, SOME WILL BE CORRECTED, WHILE FOR SOME REASON THAT FORD COULD NOT EXPLAIN, SOME ARE NOT?

DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 75 MY CAR MADE A POPPING NOISE AND LOST POWER, WAS IN LIMP MODE, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, HAD CAR DIAGNOSED AND FOUND TO HAVE BUSTED IGNITION COILS AND BAD ECM, REPLACED THOSE, LESS THAN A WEEK LATER DRIVING TO WORK AGAIN AND WRENCH LIGHT CAME ON, IT COMES AND GOES BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. THE CAR LOSES ALL POWER UNTIL SHUT OFF, AM TOLD IT IS A THROTTLE BODY ISSUE. THE CAR HAS JUST OVER 73,000 MILES AND HAS BEEN VERY WELL TAKEN CARE OF. I AM AFRAID TO DRIVE ANY MORE DUE TO THE SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER ON HIGHWAY WITH NO WAY OF KNOWING WHEN IT IS GOING TO HAPPEN AGAIN.

THE IDLER ARM BOLT HAS BROKEN 4 OR 5 TIMES NOW. ONCE IT HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING BUT THANKFULLY WE WERE ABLE TO PULL OVER TO THE SIDE. LAST TIME WAS IN A PARKING LOT

FOR THE PAST MONTH I HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING LOSS OF ACCELERATION. MY CAR BASICALLY GOES INTO "LIMP MODE" WHEN THE PROBLEM ARISES. THE CAR LOSES ALL ACCELERATION AND CAN ONLY GO ABOUT 10MPH. THE FIRST TIME I NOTICED IT, I WAS DRIVING TO WORK AND THE CAR STARTED TO MAKE A "HICCUP" FEELING RESULTING IN TOTAL LOSS OF ACCELERATION POWER. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY THE WRENCH ICON LIGHTS UP. THE ONLY WAY TO START DRIVING AGAIN IS TO PULL OVER AND TURN THE CAR OFF. UPON RESTARTING THE CAR THE WRENCH ICON IS OFF AND SEEMS TO DRIVE FINE FOR A LITTLE WHILE. SINCE THEN, I HAVE EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM AT LEAST 8 TIMES PER WEEK, AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON AS WELL FOR A FEW DAYS THEN DISAPPEAR. I HAVE NOTICED THAT 2010-2013 FORD FUSIONS HAVE HAD A CUSTOMER SATISFACTION PROGRAM ASSIGNED BY FORD FOR THIS SAME PROBLEM, PROVIDING A 10 YEAR/150,000 MILE WARRANTY FOR THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE BODY. WHY ARE THE EARLIER MODELS NOT COVERED UNDER THIS SAME PROGRAM WHEN THEY ARE CLEARLY HAVING THE SAME ISSUES (ACCORDING TO THE NUMEROUS REPORTS LISTED ON HERE)??!! *TR

HAD TO REPLACE AN IGNITION COIL FOR A MISFIRE OBD CODE. AFTER REPLACING COIL PROBLEM STILL EXISTED, SO I RESEARCHED ONLINE AND FOUND A GREAT NUMBER OF OTHER FUSION OWNERS WHO HAVE HAD THIS SAME PROBLEM. NOW I AM SUPPOSED TO REPLACE ALL THE IGNITION COILS AND THE PCM. WITH THE NUMBER OF AFFECTED VEHICLES BEING STAGGERING I FEEL THAT THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AT ABOUT 60 MPH AND SUDDENLY I FELT THE VEHICLE HAVE SOME TYPE OF LOSS OF POWER. I TRIED TO PRESS ON THE GAS PEDAL AND THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE AND THE RPM ODOMETER WAS "JUMPING" FROM 1 TO 1.5 AND THE IDLE WAS HORRIBLY ROUGH.THE MOTOR SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS A FORCED IDLE. I PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND OPENED THE HOOD TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON, I CHECKED EVERYTHING TO SEE IF MAYBE THERE WAS ANYTHING LOOSE OR SOMETHING IN THERE AND THERE WAS NOTHING THAT I COULD SEE SPOT ON OR NOTICE SPOT ON. I DID SOME RESEARCH ON THE 'SYMPTOMS" AND CLEANING OR FORCING SHUT THE THROTTLE ACTUATOR WAS THE NUMBER ONE THING THAT KEPT SHOWING. SO I PULLED EVERYTHING APART AND CLEANED IT AND SPRAYED SOME WD-40. ONCE I OUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER I THEN STARTED THE VEHICLE AND THE WRENCH LIGHT TURNED OFF AND IT WAS RUNNING LIKE NORMAL. *TR