2011 Ford Taurus Electrical System Problems

2011 Ford Taurus Limited 37'000 miles Original owner Like New Condition. Engine and all systems working perfectly no check engine or other lights showing. I was driving on city street about 25mph and with no warning engine and dash all shut down I had no crank and no dash lights at all. while I waited for tow truck dash lights did come on and anti theft light was flashing very fast. If I had been driving on Interstate 80 I may have been killed with all the Semi's that are always there. This happened August 7th 2025 It has been at the FORD dealership by my house for 25 work days and all they have done is checked the computer and said no power so replaced comp with rebuilt one and still no power so that is where I'm at. If you have seen this before please tell me ,they have no clue THANKS

The inside rear view mirror camera only works on occasion.

After my battery died, my 2011 Ford Taurus defaulted my only working key to a ‘MyKey’ with volume limits, seatbelt mutes, and other safety limitations. I cannot undo it without spending over $200 to fix an issue caused by your faulty system design. This creates a safety issue and financial burden that Ford should be responsible for.

The contact owns a 2011 Ford Taurus. The contact stated that while turning off the vehicle, there was white smoke coming from under the hood. The check engine warning light was illuminated. Additionally, the contact stated there was a fuel burning odor coming from the interior and exterior of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed and determined that the electrical system had failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown. The VIN was not available.

The contact owns a 2011 Ford Taurus. The contact stated while driving at approximately 30 MPH and depressing the accelerator pedal while driving uphill, the vehicle stalled. The contact was unaware of any warning lights being illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle started rolling backward. The contact attempted to stop the vehicle however, the vehicle lost its brakes and the power steering assist functionality. The contact was able to apply the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The contact had attempted to restart the vehicle and observed that several unknown warning lights were illuminated. The contact had the vehicle towed to an independent mechanic. The mechanic had diagnosed the vehicle and determined that the anti-theft system had caused the vehicle to stall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

Ford needs to recall the throttle body sensor and break pedal for the 2011 Ford Taurus FWD SEL MODEL. Back in the day, there was a cable connecting the accelerator pedal to the throttle. If that cable snapped, well, you were up a certain creek without a paddle. But at least you knew what it was. Nowadays every system in your vehicle is controlled by some sort of computer, including the ETB (sometimes called an electronic throttle control (ETC)). The ETB uses data from sensors to control the position of the throttle valve, which in turn manages the amount of air entering the engine. Spent well over 809.00 for new TB sensor and break pedal and my car is still not working. It goes into Limp mode and sudden acceleration w o warning. It’s very dangerous. Repair done on Feb 13, 2023 REPLACED Accelerator Pedal SENSOR Fuel Injection Throttle Body

My 2011 Ford Taurus has had so many repairs out of pocket expenses and if I purchased another warranty package doubt it would cover my issues past and present. 69,000 th miles. Throttle bottle and pedal replacement $ 852.79 replaced on February 14, 2023. Mechanic tried to fix it but the error code is the large blue wrench and check engine light still on. Have to bring it in at the end of the month to my Ford Dealer as they are so booked up and I have read all the Ford recalls. When I start the car the break pedal is to the floor, it revs up and when I place the shift in drive it wants to take off by itself at a rapid speed. I then shut the car off and it makes a big thump. It takes me three tries to start it up again but looses power where I have to put my emergency flashes on. This incident is so dangerous. Ford should have done a recall there are so many complaints ! I was going to disconnect my battery and connect it again to see if that works but I don’t want to erase the codes. My Ford dealership is so busy that they could only give me an appointment at the end of the month. As I stated my vehicle is inoperable as it sits until the end of the month to get serviced again.

The throttle body threw a code. My car lost "power' and stalled. It went into limp mode. Became inoperable. My four year old, his dad, and my safety was at risk due to this happening on a rural road on a hill. We were stuck in the middle of nowhere and an hour and a half away from home. The dealership replaced the throttle bottle, accelerator pedal, reprogrammed it, and it still will not function normally. I am out of a car and that is not okay. They only warning sign there was happened to be a wrench and that's it.

Vehicle center console-radio, heat and air, heated seats, stopped working. Heated air blew out at 90 degrees and you could not turn it off or turn down the air. This vehicle was purchased used with only 37,500 miles on it, from CarMax 30 days ago.

2011 FORD TAURUS SEL MODEL HAD BATTERY REPLACED IN 2015. 2020 CAR DID NOT START, BOUGHT NEW BATTERY IN FLORIDA. HERB CHAMBERS FORD IN 2015 PUT IN A SMALLER BATTERY NOT MADE FOR MY CAR. REPLACED AND SPENT 143.00 FOR A BIGGER BATTERY MADE FOR THIS CAR. WHILE READING THE WEB I NOTICED 2011 FORD TAURUS OWNERS ARE STATING A BUNCH OF BAD BATTERIES HAVE BEEN BOUGHT BY FORD OWNERS UNKNOWN TO THEM. NOW I HAVE CORROSION IN MY ENGINE AND MY ELECTRICAL IS NOT WORKING AGAIN.

2011 Ford Taurus SEL at 100,000 miles the a/c started blowing out of the defrost at 90 degrees and on high, none of the controls worked for the A/C, radio, clock etc.. The front interface module went out. I was told by Ford no new replacements available they are discontinued and so far I've bought and replaced 3 used ones in the past 2 years myself. I was also told they would need reprogrammed (THEY DONT NEED REPROGRAMMED) buy the dealership about 400.00 and 300.00 to install a used part after I found one and bought it and brought it to them. The new parts should be available for you as long as long you own your vehicle you shouldn't have to buy used ones that are going to go out to.. The car has locked the doors car on me twice now with the key in the ignition on their own I left it unlocked. The excessive heat also cracked my windshield that I had to replace. The used modules run 150.00-300.00 each time plus the few hours it takes to replace...not good Ford....not good..

The option to adjust the climate control or change the radios is not available in this vehicle anymore. They are currently stuck on defrost and high heat which makes you almost blind when the sweat runs in your eyes. The radio just plays at an uncomfortable volume level. There have been no warnings has to why this happened. It just happened all at once, with no way to change it. You try being 160 miles from home with a toddler in car midsummer and your heater blowing on hi heat. This has happened to many people all over, theres no new part being manufactured to replace this broken one, and there's no salvage yards that have one for sale because they have all been bought up. and this issue is still arising in other fords that are only a couple years old. Ford needs to have a recall on this!

DASH BOARD LIGHTS WENT OUT CAN NOT READ WHAT GEAR CAR IS IN.. COMPUTER IS OUT..CLOCK HEATER.RADIO STATIONS OUT. CAR STARTED WHEN IN DRIVEWAY WHEN CAR CAR WAS STARTED

I WAS DRIVING ON A CITY STREET THE WEEK OF MAY 20, 2018 WHEN THE ENGINE SUDDENLY WENT DEAD. (LOSS OF POWERING STEERING AND BREAKS). I DRIFTED TO A STOP ALONG THE ROADSIDE. AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF I CHECKED THE BREAKS AND STEERING AND THEN WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR. THE SECOND OCCURRENCE WAS JUNE 3, 2018 WHILE DRIVING DOWN A NEIGHBORHOOD STREET. AGAIN THE ENGINE QUIT RUNNING, I DRIFTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, TURNED IT OFF AND WAS ABLE TO RESTART AFTER A FEW MINUTES AND WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE MY DRIVE. ON BOTH OCCASIONS THE ONLY WARNING WAS A SILHOUETTE OF THE CAR ON THE DASHBOARD AS THE ENGINE WENT DEAD.

HEATER IS STUCK ON HIGH HEAT BLOWING OUT THE DEFROST, I'M UNABLE TO USE ANY OF THE CONTROLS ON THE DASH INCLUDING CLIMATE CONTROL, RADIO, THIS IS A SERIOUS ISSUE. IT'S HAZARDOUS FOR FOR ADULTS TO BE IN THIS VEHICLE IN THE SUMMER AND EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS FOR CHILDREN AND INFANTS WITH THE AMOUNT OF HEAT THAT IS POURING OUT OF THE CLIMATE CONTROL DUCTING.

WHILE DRIVING ALL WARNING LIGHTS FLASH,GAUGES GO UP AND DWN AND STOP AND DINGS SOUND. TURNED OFF CAR AND IT WNT RESTART.WNT CRANK AT ALL ONLY SECURITY DINGS AND SECUITY LIGHT FLASHES.TOOK TO SKILLMAN FORD AND THEY DID NOTHING.CAR WAS THERE 3 MNTHS. IT HAS DONE THIS 4 TIMES NOW IN LAST YR. SEEMS TO BE A SECURITY ISSUE.

I WENT TO GET INTO MY CAR, THE FOB KEY DID NOT UNLOCK MY DOOR. OPENED IT MANUALLY. WHILE INSIDE CAR, ENGINE STARTED BUT NOTHING ELSE WORKED. DASH WAS FLICKERING. CAR WOULD NOT GO INTO REVERSE. THIS HAPPENED AGAIN 4 WEEKS PRIOR TO OCT 3, 2017. AFTER AN HOUR STANDING OUTSIDE, CAR ALARM WENT OFF SO I KNEW I HAD TO JUMP IN TO TAKE IT TO FORD. SERVICE TOLD ME TOO MANY BAD CODES WERE SHOWING UP SAID IT MIGHT BE CELENOID BUT I HAD A NEW ONE PUT IN THAT I HAD TO PAY OVER 600 FOR B C I WAS 2 WEEKS OUT OF WARRANTEE. BACK IN 2012 I FILED HERE THAT ELECTRICAL WENT COMPLETELY OUT WHILE DRIVING AT 65 MPH NO BRAKES, NO STEERING. CAR SLOWED DOWN ON ITS OWN AND I WAS BY A PATCH OF GRASS ON A MAIN HIGHWAY. THAT DAY I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO LOSE MY LIFE. REALLY UPSET WITH THIS, IT'S DANGEROUS AND CAR IS NOT DEPENDABLE. ONLY HAVE 50 TH MILES. TRUNK LEAKED, BACK WINDSHIELD HAD TO BE REPLACED B C 3RD LIGHT WAS NOT WORKING.

THE REAR WINDOW SHADE POPS UP AND DOWN WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE. ALSO THE BRAKES ROAR WHEN THE BRAKE IS DEPRESSED HARD. I'VE READ A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ON THE WINDOW SHADE. THIS APPEARS TO BE A BAD OPTION THAT'S PUT ON A FORD.

OUR CAR WAS PURCHASED NEW ON 4/29/2011 FROM SHEEHY FORD IN ASHLAND VIRGINIA. WITHIN THE FIRST WEEK OF OWNERSHIP WE EXPERIENCED A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. WHILE DRIVING, THE CAR SUDDENLY JUST LOST ALL ELECTRICAL POWER AND CUT OFF. WE CONTACTED SHEEHY FORD AND THEY COULD NOT IDENTIFY THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM. THIS HAPPENED SEVERAL MORE TIMES AND AFTER SEVERAL TRIPS TO SHEEHY, THEY ATTACHED A DEVICE TO CAPTURE THE PROBLEM WHEN IT HAPPENED. WE HAD THE DEVICE IN THE CAR FOR SEVERAL MONTHS AND IT OCCURRED ONLY ONE TIME. THE DEVICE PROVIDED NO HELP IN IDENTIFYING THE PROBLEM. THEY REMOVED THE DEVICE AND SAID THAT IT APPEARED THE PROBLEM HAD RESOLVED ITSELF. WE DID NOT HAVE THE PROBLEM AGAIN UNTIL SEPTEMBER OF 2015. THE ODOMETER WAS NEAR 25,000 MILES. WE WERE TRAVELING ON A VERY CURVY 55 MPH ROAD WITH NO SHOULDERS WHEN WE LOST POWER AND IT CUT OFF. IT WAS THEN WHEN WE REALIZED HOW SERIOUS A SAFETY ISSUE THIS WAS AS A CAR ROUNDING THE CURVE BEHIND US COULD HAVE REAR-ENDED US AS WE HAD NO BREAK LIGHTS TO WARN THEM. AS A RESULT MY WIFE REFUSES TO EVEN RIDE IN THE CAR. ONCE AGAIN WE TOOK THE CAR TO SHEEHY FORD AND THEY COULD NOT FIND THE PROBLEM. THEY CONTACTED THE REGIONAL CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER FOR SHEEHY FORD AND HE OPENED CASE CAS-7525445. HE MADE ARRANGEMENTS WITH SHEEHY FORD TO ENGAGE 'FORD ENGINEERING' TO RESOLVE THE ISSUE. AS IT TURNED OUT SHEEHY FORD HAD OUR CAR FOR NEARLY 2 WEEKS BUT MERELY DROVE IT TO ATTEMPT TO REPEAT THE PROBLEM. THE CAR DID NOT CUT-OFF DURING THEIR NEARLY 900 MILES OF DRIVING IT. IN NOVEMBER OF 2015 WE CONTACTED FORD MOTOR COMPANY PRODUCT CLAIMS DEPARTMENT AND THEY REFUSED TO RESOLVE THE ISSUE. WE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN ON JUNE 16, 2016 AT APPROXIMATELY 29,500 MILES WILE DRIVING ON I-295 AT 70 MILES PER HOUR.

THE CENTER CONSOLE INCLUDING CLIMATE CONTROL AND RADIO POWER OFF FOR VARYING PERIODS OF TIME. THE DASHBOARD INDICATORS INDICATORS CYCLES THROUGH ALL THE MESSAGES AND THE TURN SIGNALS DON'T WORK. THESE THINGS HAPPEN RANDOMLY AND IN EVERY DRIVING CONDITION BOTH HIGHWAY AND CITY EVEN STATIONARY.