NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2013 Mazda CX-5. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026
Shifter switch has gone out and no longer recognizes the car is in park, causes battery drainage because car cannot fully turn off. Car not recognizing gears can cause car accidents and possible loss of life. This issue can be found online as a known defect in mazda cx-5 that has not been recalled. Vehicle has been inspected and issue has been verified.There were no warning lights, sounds or symptoms of potential failure before failure. Mazda has had recalls and service bulletins related to shifter/ignition switches, particularly for models like the CX-5 and MX-5 (Miata) in years like 2013-2019, concerning worn shifter switch units (Part #KDY0-46-040) that can prevent the ignition from fully turning off in Park, potentially draining the battery or causing accidental activation. While some were major recalls (like the 1.4 million vehicle ignition switch issue in 2015), many were Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for the shifter switch issue where owners sometimes got repairs free even outside warranty due to the commonality.
Shifter switch has gone out and no longer recognizes the car is in park, causes battery drainage because car cannot fully turn off. Car not recognizing gears can cause car accidents and possible loss of life. This issue can be found online as a known defect in mazda cx-5 that has not been recalled. Vehicle has been inspected and issue has been verified.There were no warning lights, sounds or symptoms of potential failure before failure. Mazda has had recalls and service bulletins related to shifter/ignition switches, particularly for models like the CX-5 and MX-5 (Miata) in years like 2013-2019, concerning worn shifter switch units (Part #KDY0-46-040) that can prevent the ignition from fully turning off in Park, potentially draining the battery or causing accidental activation. While some were major recalls (like the 1.4 million vehicle ignition switch issue in 2015), many were Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for the shifter switch issue where owners sometimes got repairs free even outside warranty due to the commonality.
Shifter switch has gone out and no longer recognizes the car is in park, causes battery drainage because car cannot fully turn off. Car not recognizing gears can cause car accidents and possible loss of life. This issue can be found online as a known defect in mazda cx-5 that has not been recalled. Vehicle has been inspected and issue has been verified.There were no warning lights, sounds or symptoms of potential failure before failure. Mazda has had recalls and service bulletins related to shifter/ignition switches, particularly for models like the CX-5 and MX-5 (Miata) in years like 2013-2019, concerning worn shifter switch units (Part #KDY0-46-040) that can prevent the ignition from fully turning off in Park, potentially draining the battery or causing accidental activation. While some were major recalls (like the 1.4 million vehicle ignition switch issue in 2015), many were Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for the shifter switch issue where owners sometimes got repairs free even outside warranty due to the commonality.
Shifter switch has gone out and no longer recognizes the car is in park, causes battery drainage because car cannot fully turn off. Car not recognizing gears can cause car accidents and possible loss of life. This issue can be found online as a known defect in mazda cx-5 that has not been recalled. Vehicle has been inspected and issue has been verified.There were no warning lights, sounds or symptoms of potential failure before failure. Mazda has had recalls and service bulletins related to shifter/ignition switches, particularly for models like the CX-5 and MX-5 (Miata) in years like 2013-2019, concerning worn shifter switch units (Part #KDY0-46-040) that can prevent the ignition from fully turning off in Park, potentially draining the battery or causing accidental activation. While some were major recalls (like the 1.4 million vehicle ignition switch issue in 2015), many were Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for the shifter switch issue where owners sometimes got repairs free even outside warranty due to the commonality.
Shifter switch has gone out and no longer recognizes the car is in park, causes battery drainage because car cannot fully turn off. Car not recognizing gears can cause car accidents and possible loss of life. This issue can be found online as a known defect in mazda cx-5 that has not been recalled. Vehicle has been inspected and issue has been verified.There were no warning lights, sounds or symptoms of potential failure before failure.
The lower control arm or axel on the front passenger side broke as I was backing out of a parking spot. It is still at the mechanic however that is what is required to put the wheel back on the vehicle. My understanding is that this is the second time I have had this problem with the lower control arm on this vehicle. That could be very dangerous if that happens while on the highway and I’m concerned there is a fundamental problem with this car if it has happened twice. The first time the car was only a few years old. It was around 2016 if I recall correctly and Mazda fixed it.
When in the highway and changing lanes and you try to excelerate it doesnt take off ..instead just acts as if i had over excelerated but not speeding up.. i have almost been ran over because i could not get enough speed to switch lanes.
The display on my rearview camera is extremely foggy. It appears to have had a breach where water has leaked into the camera itself. I have cleaned the lens but yo no avail. I never had a clear screen, and at times it is so bad that I can’t see anything at all. In fact, I have already backed into the corner of a building in a parking lot due to lack of visibility. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve attempted to back out and almost hit a pedestrian or another car driving behind me that I couldn’t see well. It’s a good thing I use my mirrors and rear window, or that could have easily happened. I wonder if the work that was done on my rear hatch from a previous recall may have caused the seal protecting the camera unit to be compromised. There have been a number of recalls recently from other manufacturer’s, so I believe this is a common issue that should be addressed in my case as well.
I recently purchased this used vehicle. Right away, I noticed that when I used the recline lever, it didn't stop when removing my hand from it. I had to push the lever back to the middle position to stop it. I thought this was annoying, but didn't think much of it. On Thursday [XXX] I stopped at a gas station, went inside, and when I came back out the seat was fully reclined. It was so far back that it was lodged in the car seat behind the drivers seat. I tried to move the back up but it wouldn't come back up. The seat would move forward and back, but the recline level didn't work. I drove to my next destination with the seat all the way back. Then I turned the car off and on several times before it would go back up. I then picked up my kids, went to the grocery store and came back home. I turned the car off and went to the way back to get my groceries out, while my kids were still unbuckling. As I was in the back I heard them both start screaming. I ran back around and the drivers side seat was leaned at the way back, with my 6 year old trapped and the headrest part crushing her throat and chest. Thankfully, I was able to move it back up. If it hadn't worked to move up, like just a few hours previously, I don't know what I would have done but it would have been horrible. My daughter was screaming and crying and in a lot of pain. Her throat and chest were red and scratched. It appears that when I get out of the car my leg may slightly touch the recline button, and then it doesn't stop moving. This is incredibly dangerous. I looked it up online and found a couple other reports about it, including one about a baby trapped in a car seat. I can't believe there wasn't a recall. I took it to the dealer I bought it from, and it did continue to do the same thing. They are looking into ordering a new part. In the meantime it is unplugged underneath the seat, so it can't move. That brings on a dash light with the airbags, so I'm not sure if it means my airbag won't work. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
While driving, 30 mph on Dempster Street in Niles, Illinois, the sunroof spontaneously exploded and shattered.
Ball joint broke gave out while turning
Turn the car off--but it does not turn off. I've had my battery run down so many times. The problem is a sensor in the gear shifter that is not telling the vehicle it’s in park. This is a huge reoccurring safety issue.
The car battery will not turn off when I turn off the vehicle.
When you shut the car off the radio and other components do not shut down. You have to start the car back up and put in gear then back in park and shut the car off (sometimes two or three times) to get everything to shut down. This is getting worse over time.
My vehicle does not want to turn off when placed in park. The car is fully in the park position, but the start push button is illuminated with a red light. The power is still on, and the car beeps when door is open. I can only get the power to turn off, after repeatedly tapping the gear shift left, towards the P symbol. It is already fully seated in the park position, but this finally causes the light to go off and the car turns off. Always hoping the power did not turn back on while away from the car. Is this a fire hazard? I will not park my car in the garage as I am concerned it may overheat the wiring, electrical components, etc...??? I have noticed similar complaints for this vehicle on this website also.
On Saturday afternoon 7/24 I was leaving a parking lot when my drivers side wheel detached from my front axle rod. I have around 90k miles on the vehicle. There was no indication of a part coming loose. Never noticed vibration of wheel or any resistance during movements. This should be a recall on the vehicle.
My car does not turn off when you push the ignition button. I spoke to Mazda's parts manager about this, and his wife had the same issue and the same model and year as my car. He told me that it is the Parking Lever switch. I feel that not being able to turn your car off is a safety issue. I filed a safety issue with my 2013 Mazda CX-5 on May 26, 2022.
AFTER FIXING THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITH THE CAR NOT FULLY TURNING OFF, THE CAR SUDDENLY DIED IN TRAFFIC AND WOULDN'T RESTART. REPLACING MASS AIR SENSOR, O2 SENSOR, AND PLUGS, THE CAR WILL DIE IN TRAFFIC WHEN COMING TO A STOP, BUT RESTARTS IMMEDIATELY. THE CODE SAYS THIS IS A PCM PROBLEM. INTERNET RESEARCH SAYS THIS IS NOT UNCOMMON RESULTING IN SAFETY RECALLS IN OTHER YEAR MODELS. 2013 SHOULD ALSO BE RECALLED.
My car won't shut off! I put it in park and turn it off and the accessories stay on. It is getting worse and worse and has taken up to 7 times of turning it off and on, backing it up and forward before it will just turn off for me. I get scared that it won't turn off. I found this forum online and it seems this is a very common problem that is not being addressed by Mazda. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t49115_ds799849 Not being able to turn my car off is a very big safety risk for me and my 2 year old son.
The car does not turn off when I put it in park and push the ON/OFF button. I have to start and turn off multiple times and jiggle the gear shift multiple times before it turns off. Sometimes even that doesn't work. Because the car doesn't completely turn off, it runs the battery down which leaves me dangerously stranded. The car is available for inspection. My safety is put at risk because it drains the battery and leaves me stranded, sometimes in dangerous situations unable to get assistance. I have not taken it to a dealer or service center but have seen MULTIPLE reports of other owners of this same vehicle having the same problem. The problem has not been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others. There were no warning lamps, messages, or other symptoms before the problems started. It started a while ago but I'm not certain of the date. The messages I've read online of it happening to others are from several years ago, so this seems to be a problem that has been ongoing for several years that Mazda has failed to address.
THE IGNITION ON MY 2013 MAZDA CX-5 WOULD NOT TURN OFF AFTER PUTTING THE VEHICLE INTO PARK. THE ENGINE WOULD START WITH THE GEARSHIFT LEVER IN PARK, BUT ONCE I DROVE TO A DESTINATION, PULLED INTO A PARKING LOT, AND PUT THE GEARSHIFT INTO PARK, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT ENTIRELY TURN OFF. IT WOULD TAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO MANIPULATE THE GEARSHIFT AROUND TO GET THE CAR TO TURN OFF. THE VEHICLE'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WOULD STILL BE ACTIVE, INCLUDING RADIO, DASH LIGHTS, HEADLIGHTS, AND OTHER ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS WOULD ALL REMAIN ON. AFTER CONTACTING A LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN TOWN, A "PARK SAFETY SWITCH" IN THE GEARSHIFT LEVER IS BEING AFFECTED, AND IT IS A KNOWN PROBLEM AFFECTING MAZDA CX-5 VEHICLES. HOWEVER, THERE HAVE NOT BEEN ANY RECALLS ISSUED FOR THIS PROBLEM. THANKS TO A QUICK GOOGLE SEARCH SUCH AS "MAZDA CX-5 WILL NOT TURN OFF", I FOUND OUT ABOUT THIS ISSUE. THERE ARE SEVERAL YOUTUBE VIDEOS, POSTS ON REDDIT AND MAZDA FORUMS DISCUSSING THIS ISSUE. HAVING A VEHICLE WITH AN ISSUE WHERE YOU CANNOT TURN THE CAR OFF BECAUSE THE CAR "THINKS" THAT THE VEHICLE IS NOT IN PARK IS UNSAFE AND A SAFETY HAZARD AND CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT OR WORSE.
The contact owns a 2013 MAZDA CX5. The contact stated while attempting to shut off the vehicle, the vehicle failed to turn off due to the transmission not being fully in PARK. The contact stated that there was an unknown flashing red warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not yet diagnosed. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and the contact was awaiting a response. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
IJUST PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE USED FROM A CAR DEALER. I GET IT HOME AND FIND THIS OUT. SEEMS IT IS A COMMON ISSUE AND COMPLAINT ONLINE WITH A FIX OF OVER $200 IN PARTS AND LABOR. (ALL OUR VEHICLES ARE MAZDAS. I PURPOSELY BOUGHT A MAZDA BECAUSE I BELIEVED THEY WERE RELIABLE. I AM SORELY DISAPPOINTED THERE IS NOT A RECALL FOR THIS. WHEN CAR IS PUT IN PARK AND TURNED OFF IT WILL NOT SHUT OFF. AUXILLARY POWER KEEPS RUNNING NOT ALLOWING THE CAR TO LOCK. RADIO TURNS BACK ON. THE ONLY REMEDY IS TO CONTINUALLY TRY TO JIGGLE THE GEAR SHIFT OR TAKE CAR OUT OF PARK AND BACK IN.
WHILE DRIVING MY VEHICLE ON THE INTERSTATE THE CAR LOST THE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE. ALL OF THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS CAME ON AND I HAD TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE INTERSTATE. AFTER RESTARTING THE VEHICLE I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE IT BUT I CANNOT TAKE THE VEHICLE OVER 30 MPH NOW WITHOUT IT SHUTTERING AND HAVING ACCELERATION ISSUES. THIS IS A SERIOUS AND LIFE THREATENING ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED FREE OF CHARGE. I HAVE FOUND OTHER REPORTS OF THIS HAPPENING BUT I SEE NO RECALL INFORMATION. THIS NEEDS TO BE FIXED BEFORE MAZDA HAS LAWSUITS FILED AGAINST THEM. THIS IS A MANUFACTURING ERROR AND NOT A USAGE ERROR. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS.
SEVERAL MONTHS NOW, I'M HAVING TO TURN MY CAR BACK ON TO TURN THE RADIO OFF AND COMPLETELY SHUT THE CAR DOWN. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE THE SUMMER OF THIS YEAR. I HAVE TO CRANK IT UP, PUT IT OUT OF PARK INTO DRIVE, AND PUT IT BACK IN DRIVE. AFTER THAT, IT TURNS OFF. I HAVE PUSH TO START AND HAD THE CAR FOR FOUR YEARS PRE-OWNED. YESTERDAY, MY SISTER AND I WERE STRANDED BECAUSE MY CAR DIDN'T START. THE DEALERSHIP SAID IT WAS THE AIR INTAKE OXYGEN SENSOR. THEY REPLACED IT PLUS THEY PUT IN A NEW CAR BATTERY. MY HUSBAND AND I THOUGHT IT WAS WEIRD, BUT NOW I'M WONDERING IF THE CAR ITSELF IS COMPLETELY SHUTTING DOWN WHEN I TURN IT OFF. NOW, THIS IS MAKING ME SCARED TO DRIVE THE CAR. THE REPAIR COST ME 490 SOMETHING.
THE REAR HATCH FAILS TO OPEN IN COLD WEATHER. I HAD TO CLIMB IN THROUGH THE CAR AND OPEN A SMALL HATCH TO OPEN THE LIFT GATE MANUALLY. AFTER I OPENED IT MANUALLY IT WORKED PROPERLY THE REST OF THE DAY. . CONTINUES TO FAIL INTERMITTENTLY WHEN VEHICLE IS PARKED OVER NIGHT IN COLD WEATHER.
THE SHIFTER POSITION SWITCH IS DEFECTIVE. IT DOES NOT ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WHEN THE SHIFTER IS PLACED INTO PARK AND THE CAR IS TURNED OFF. THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, THE RADIO, LIGHTS, ETC, REMAIN ON EVEN THOUGH THE CAR HAS BEEN TURNED OFF. APPARENTLY IT CAUSED BY A SMALL PART THAT WAS MADE OF RUBBER THAT DRIES OUT AND BREAKS DOWN. IT IS REPLACED BY A PLASTIC PART THAT RESISTS WEAR AND TEAR AND LASTS FAR LONGER. MAZDA IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM BUT REFUSES TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE PART FOR FREE.
AFTER PRESSING THE "ON/OFF" BUTTON, THE CAR WILL NOT SHUT COMPLETELY OFF (RADIO/LIGHTS/ACCESSORIES REMAIN ON). TO RESOLVE, YOU HAVE TO ESSENTIALLY JAM THE SHIFTER BACK AND FORTH, RATHER STRONGLY (OUT OF PARK) BEFORE TRYING TO TURN IT OFF AGAIN. THIS HAPPENS MORE THAN IT DOESN'T AND AT SOME POINT, I AM CONCERNED IT WONT SHUT OFF. THIS HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN LOOKING FOR POSSIBLE REASONS WHY AND SOLUTIONS, THERE ARE A LOT OF MESSAGE BOARDS REVEALING THIS AS AN ISSUE, BUT NO RECALL HAS BEEN GENERATED. WHAT WOULD IT TAKE TO GET A RECALL IN PLACE? THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING UPWARDS OF OVER A YEAR AT LEAST.
WHEN I TRY TO TURN OFF THE CAR, IT REMAINS ON. I THEN HAVE TO SHIFT GEARS TO R THEN BACK TO P AND TURN IT OFF AGAIN TO COMPLETELY SHUT THE CAR OFF. IT HAPPENS EVERY TIME.
THIS ISSUE HAS OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES WHERE I PUT MY CAR INTO PARK (THEREFORE BEING STATIONARY), PRESS THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR AND THE CAR DOES NOT FULLY SHUT DOWN. IT APPEARS TO BE A SAFETY ISSUE WITH THE STEERING SENSOR NOT FULL RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK AND THEREFORE NOT SHUTTING OFF THE CAR COMPLETELY. IN ORDER TO GET THE CAR TO COMPLETELY SHUT OFF, THE CAR HAS TO BE SHIFTED FROM DRIVE TO PARK/ACTIVELY TURNING ON AND OFF THE CAR SOMETIMES AS MANY AS 5-6 TIMES IN ORDER FOR IT TO FULLY SHUT DOWN. I HAVE READ DOZENS OF REPORTS OF OTHER MAZDA OWNERS EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM. CARS BEING UNINTENTIONALLY LEFT ON IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED INTO.
WAS DRIVING WHEN CAR SHUT DOWN FOR A SECOND AND TRACTION CONTROL, TIRE LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I HAD NO POWER AND THE REAR TIRES WERE NOT SPINNING. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND SHUT IT OFF. I STARTED IT BACK UP AND ONLY THE TIRE LIGHT AND ENGINE LIGHT WERE ON AND I HAD POWER. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE ANOTHER 30 MILES BEFORE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS AND DECELERATING, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL WINDING AND GRINDING NOISE DETECTED. THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR ROUTINE REPAIRS ON THE AXLE AND THE MECHANIC WAS INFORMED THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS MAKING AN ABNORMAL WINDING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT TRANSMISSION SPECIALIST WHERE HE WAS INFORMED THAT THE TRANS AXLE BEARINGS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED THAT THE REPAIRS WERE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 84,000.
BOUGHT MY CAR WITH 40K MILES ON IT FROM A MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN AURORA COLORADO IN 2017. I'M AT 106K NOW AND I THOUGHT I NEEDED WHEEL BEARINGS ON THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE TIRE. TURNS OUT IT'S THE DRIVE TRAIN AND A TRANSMISSION FAILING. MY VEHICLE HUMS ON THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE WHEN I ACCELERATE. THIS ISSUE BEGAN JUST OVER 100K MILES.
AFTER YOU SHUT THE CAR ENGINE OFF THE IGNITION IS STILL ON. WHILE IN PARK I HAVE LOOKED THIS UP AND FOUND OUT THAT IT'S A WORN OUT SWITCH. IN THESE CARS THIS HAD HAPPENED A WHILE BACK BUT IT'S GETTING WORSE LIKE EVERY TIME NOW
THIS IS A "PUSH BUTTON" START VEHICLE. WHEN YOU PUSH THE BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE, THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS / ACCESSORIES REMAIN ON INSTEAD OF TURNING OFF WITH THE ENGINE. THERE IS NO KEY TO REMOVE SO YOU CANNOT MANUALLY TURN OFF THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS / ACCESSORIES. EVEN UPON EXITING THE VEHICLE AND LOCKING IT, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS REMAIN "ON" EVEN THOUGH THE ENGINE IS OFF. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE GEAR SHIFT SHOWS PARK. IT SEEMS THAT SOME TYPE OF SENSOR IS NOT PROPERLY COMMUNICATING TO SHUT ITSELF DOWN.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO SHUT-OFF WHILE DEPRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON. AFTER PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON TO SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF, THE ENGINE TURNED OFF HOWEVER, THE ELECTRONICS INSIDE THE VEHICLE AND THE EXTERIOR LIGHTS REMAINED ACTIVATED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 95,000. THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND ADVISED TO PAY $395 FOR REPAIRS BEING AS THOUGH THE CONSUMER WAS NOT AT FAULT.
The contact owns a 2013 Mazda CX-5. The contact stated that the PUSH to START button was not able to turn off the vehicle until after several attempts were made, which caused the battery to drain quickly. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, and the contact was waiting for a callback. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
THE ENGINE CUTS WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK AND PUSH MY START/STOP BUTTON BUT THE RADIO STAYS ON AFTER. I TRY OVER AND OVER AGAIN TO TURN MY CAR OFF FULLY BY SWITCHING GEAR AND TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF. THIS HAS HAPPENED DAILY FOR ME. I NOTICED THAT THIS MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE ELECTRICAL SHORTAGE OF THE IGNITION SWITCH. IT'S VERY UNSAFE. IT CAN CAUSE BATTERY DRAINAGE AND CAN LEAD TO OTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUES.
I WAS DRIVING MY MAZDA 2013 CX-5 ON THE HIGHWAY, WHEN IT SUDDENLY LOST POWER AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I PRESSED THE THE ACCELERATED ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND MY VEHICLE WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. THE ENGINE LIGHT, LOW TIRE, AND TRACTION SYMBOLS ALL WERE LID UP ON THE DASHBOARD. I DROVE THE VEHICLE BACK HOME AT 20 MPH AS THIS IS THE MAXIMUM TOP SPEED THE VEHICLE WOULD ACCELERATE. I WILL CHECK TO SEE IF THERE IS A RECALL FOR THIS SAFETY ISSUE THAT CAN BE LIFE THREATENING.
DEFECTIVE PARKING SWITCH. IGNITION FAILS TO DISENGAGE EVEN THOUGH THE DASHBOARD DISPLAY SHOWS THE CAR IS IN PARK. AT TIMES THE ENGINE STAYS ON; MAJORITY OF THE INSTANCES THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN BUT THE IGNITION REMAINS ON WITH AN AUDIBLE ALARM SOUNDING WHEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR IS OPEN. THIS PROBLEM DRAINS THE BATTERY COMPLETELY AND REQUIRES DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY TO AVOID THE DRAIN. DANGEROUS FOR EVERYONE BUT PARTICULARLY DANGEROUS FOR THOSE WHO ARE DEAF WHEN THE ENGINE RUNS OR THE IGNITION STAYS ON AND CAUSES THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. THE VEHICLE IS PARKED WHEN THIS OCCURS. AT TIMES CONTINUING TO TURN ON THE ENGINE, SHIFTING THROUGH ALL OPTIONS AND BACK IN TO PARK SOLVES THE PROBLEM. SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHEN SHIFTING BACK INTO PARK AND TURNING OFF THE IGNITION WILL NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM STARTED TO OCCUR RANDOMLY 10/16/2018 BUT OCCURED WITH DAILY FREQUENCY ON 9/9/2019, THE REPAIRS WERE MADE ON 9/13/2019 WHEN THE MECHANIC FOUND THE TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUES BY MAZDA FOR THIS PROBLEM.
INITIALLY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITH NO NOTICE DRIVABILITY CONCERN. USED OBD SCANNER AND RETRIEVED TWO CODES: P0172 RUNNING RICH, P013A DOWNSTREAM O2 SLOW SWITCH. TWO DAYS LATER THE CAR STALLED TWO TIME, BOTH TIMES RIGHT AFTER VEHICLE STOPPED COMPLETELY WITH BRAKE PEDAL APPLIED. STOPPED DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERE SAFETY CONCERN AND WILL SEND THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP. VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN MODIFIED, AND HAS 80K MILES, 6.5 YRS OF SERVICE, WITH REGULAR SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE.
WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND WE TRY TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE, IT DOES NOT COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN. THE RADIO AND OTHER ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES AND LIGHTS STAY ON. IT APPEARS THE VEHICLE DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT IT IS IN PARK.IF YOU LEAVE THE VEHICLE IN THIS STATE, IT WILL NOT LOCK AND THE BATTERY WILL DRAIN WHICH THEN BECOMES A SAFETY ISSUE, ESPECIALLY FOR YOUNG WOMEN DRIVING THIS VEHICLE.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE DRIVING, THE CONTACT HEARD AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. UPON INSPECTION, IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE REAR BRAKE ROTOR WAS DEFORMED AND DAMAGED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. MAZDA OF CLEAR LAKE (20101 GULF FWY, WEBSTER, TX) AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE; HOWEVER, NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 29,750. *TR CONSUMER STATED RECENTLY CALLED ABOUT FAULTY BRAKE FOR 2013 MAZDA CX-5. REF #11232833. I WILL ATTACH PHOTOS OF FAULTY BRAKE AND GOOD BRAKE, BOTH FROM REAR OF VEHICLE. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT THERE ARE MULTITUDE OF COMPLAINTS ONLINE FOR THIS PROBLEM, I HAVE JUST OWNED THIS VEHICLE FOR A LONG TIME WITH LOW MILES, <30,000. ALL COMPLAINTS ARE WITHIN THE 0-30,000 MILE POINT. 'PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).'*JB
PURCHASED USED 2013 MAZDA CX-5 IN DECEMBER 2015. APRIL 2017 HAD REAR BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS REPLACED DUE TO RUST. SCREECHING BEGAN, AGAIN, END OF JUNE 2019 WHILE DRIVING NORMAL SPEEDS. CONTINUED TO GET WORSE, BRAKING AND NOT BRAKING AT ANY SPEED. MECHANIC STATED THAT THE REAR PADS AND ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED DUE TO RUST, WITH THE LEFT-SIDE BEING EXTREMELY WORSE THAN THE RIGHT. SAID THE CALIPER MIGHT HAVE GONE BAD. COULDN'T EXPLAIN HOW THIS WOULD HAPPEN IN 2 YEARS. DID NOT MENTION ANY NOTICES FOR THIS FROM MAZDA OR HOW TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING AGAIN.
THE ENGINE IS NOT TURNING COMPLETELY OFF WHEN PARKING. YOU PUT THE SHIFTER IN PARK AND PRESS THE STARTER BUTTON OFF, IT IS STAYING ON. THE RADIO AND ANY OTHER ACCESSORIES ARE STAYING ON. I AM HAVING TO RE-START THE VEHICLE MULTIPLE TIMES AND RE-POSITIONING THE SHIFTER IN PARK FOR VEHICLE TO ACTUALLY TURN OFF. IN ADDITION TO DRAINING THE BATTERY, I AM CONCERNED ABOUT OTHER DAMAGE IT COULD POSSIBLY CAUSE. ALSO, THERE'S THE POSSIBILITY OF BEING ALONE AND STRANDED SOMEWHERE. IT'S CLEARLY A SAFETY ISSUE THAT I BELIEVE THEY ARE AWARE OF.
THE ELECTRONIC DASHBOARD ON MY 2013 CX5 SPORT IS NOT SHOWING MILES DRIVEN, WHEN THE CAR IN TURNED ON, WHILE BEING DRIVEN, OR STOPPED. ONLY THE TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE IS BEING SHOWN. SEE ATTACHED PHOTO.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA CX-5. WHILE AT AN INTERSECTION, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED WITHOUT WARNING AND CRASHED INTO THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE FENDER ON THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE WAS DAMAGED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES AND A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 44,000.
OVER THE LIFETIME OF MY VEHICLE, I HAVE REPLACED MY REAR PADS AND ROTORS THREE TIMES (HAVE ALSO REPLACED FRONT PADS AND ROTORS TWO TIMES DURING THE LIFETIME OF THE CAR). THE MOST TWO RECENT OCCURRENCES WERE IN NOVEMBER 2017 AND APRIL 2019, WHERE BOTH THE REAR BRAKES PADS AND ROTORS WERE COMPLETELY REPLACED BOTH TIMES. THE MILEAGE IN BETWEEN BOTH REPAIRS WAS ONLY 22,326. I HAVE CALLED WITH MY CONCERNS TO THE DEALERSHIP, AND THEY EXPLAIN THAT THERE ARE SO MANY FACTORS THAT IT IS DIFFICULT TO SAY WHAT THE ISSUE COULD BE. I TAKE CARE OF MY VEHICLE, IT IS ALWAYS REPAIRED AND SERVICED ON TIME, HAS FREQUENT CAR WASHES, INCLUDING THE WHEEL AND UNDERCARRIAGE AREA. I HAVE AN APPROXIMATE HALF HOUR COMMUTE WITH ONLY HIGHWAY MILES, BECAUSE WE HAVE AN ADDITIONAL CAR FOR OUR LOCAL ERRANDS. IT SEEMS AS THOUGH THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH A LOT OF 2013 MAZDA CX-5 OWNERS, NOT JUTS MYSELF, AS I'VE DISCOVERED FROM MANY VEHICLE COMPLAINT BOARDS ONLINE WHO SPEAK OF THE SAME EXACT ISSUE OF HAVING TO CONSTANTLY REPLACE PREMATURELY WORN BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. I PERSONALLY FEEL THAT THERE IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING MORE TO THIS RECURRING ISSUE THAN WHAT I AM ACTUALLY BEING TOLD, AND FEEL AS THOUGH IT SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED ONCE AND FOR ALL. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND ASSISTANCE.
MY CAR HAD AN ENGINE LIGHT AFTER DRIVING IT FOR 43K MILE. TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL MAZDA DEALER AND FOUND OUT IT HAS CODE P011A WHICH REQUIRED THE COOLANT SENSORS REPLACEMENT. HAD THE WORK DONE WHICH COST ME ABOUT $600 BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME BACK WITH THE SAME ERROR CODE. AFTER SPEAKING WITH THEIR TOP LEVEL TECHNICIAN AND MANAGEMENT TEAM IT TURN OUT THE HEATER CORE WAS THE MAIN ISSUE IT WAS A MISSED DIAGNOSTIC. SO NOW THE HEATER CORE IS REQUIRED WHICH WILL COST ME ANOTHER $1800 TO GET IT FIX. IF THE HEATER CORE IS NOT REPLACED THE ENGINE CAN OVER HEAT AND ALSO IF THE HEATER IS TURNED UP, IT CAN SLOWLY COOK OR SUFFOCATE THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS. WITH THE SAFETY CONCERNS IN MIND I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND OUT THERE ARE OTHERS REPORTING SIMILAR ISSUE WITH SEEM TO INDICATE THE HEATER CORE MIGHT BE A DESIGN FLAW OR DEFECT FROM THE START WHICH REQUIRE A REPLACEMENT EVERY 50K MILE.
DEFECTIVE PARKING SWITCH. IGNITION FAILS TO DISENGAGE EVEN THOUGH THE DASHBOARD DISPLAY SHOWS THE CAR IS IN PARK. AT TIMES THE ENGINE STAYS ON; MAJORITY OF THE INSTANCES THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN BUT THE IGNITION REMAINS ON WITH AN AUDIBLE ALARM SOUNDING WHEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR IS OPEN. THIS PROBLEM DRAINS THE BATTERY COMPLETELY AND REQUIRES DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY TO AVOID THE DRAIN. DANGEROUS FOR EVERYONE BUT PARTICULARLY DANGEROUS FOR THOSE WHO ARE DEAF WHEN THE ENGINE RUNS OR THE IGNITION STAYS ON AND CAUSES THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. THE VEHICLE IS PARKED WHEN THIS OCCURS. AT TIMES CONTINUING TO TURN ON THE ENGINE, SHIFTING THROUGH ALL OPTIONS AND BACK IN TO PARK SOLVES THE PROBLEM. SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHEN SHIFTING BACK INTO PARK AND TURNING OFF THE IGNITION WILL NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM STARTED TO OCCUR RANDOMLY BUT NOW OCCURS DAILY. SINCE THIS ISSUE I HAVE REPLACED STARTER AND BATTERY WITH NO AFFECT. THE MECHANIC FOUND THE TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUES BY MAZDA FOR THIS PROBLEM.