2013 Chrysler 200 Electrical System Problems

The contact owns a 2013 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the passenger’s side air bag unexpectedly deployed without the vehicle being in a crash. There was no warning light illuminated. Due to the failure, the passenger’s seat became inoperable and could not be adjusted or properly positioned. The dealer was contacted, but the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact was informed that the vehicle would not be repaired due to a previous repair completed under NHTSA Campaign Number: 13V282000 (Electrical System, Air Bags). The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.

I started having the oil pressure warning light come on same day after an oil change. It was a 3-hour drive, and the light will come on while my foot is on the break. Oil level was in the safe marker. Then I started feeling rumbling like I was driving a stick shift car. One major incident I was waiting for my turn at a light and when it turned green, the car was stalling but went. All of sudden it stopped and cut off and wouldn't crank back up. When it did the light was red and cars were going around me. It was running hot but started back up for me to drive home. But it I stopped it shuts off. The inside lights do a weird thing like comes on randomly while driving and it's scary at night. Also, if using the left turn signal the lights comes on. But when the car is off the radio and other controls go bright then dim. When put on a code reader many codes come up P0506, P0137, P0171, P0131, P0302

Headrest popped out Radio goes blank or completely then comes back on Throttle body light comes on and stalks car after being replaced 2 times Gas cap light comes on after being replaced 4 times

Car shuts down suddenly while driving causing the wheel to lock up and breaks unable to be pressed.

The contact owns a 2013 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The contact was able to pull to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be restarted. Several unknown warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 13V282000 (Electrical System, Air Bags), but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 172,000.

The Active Headrest Restraint (AHR) failed. It deployed without cause and was inspected by the dealer. The issue was a small piece of plastic used in the manufacturing process. My wife was driving the car and out of nowhere a loud noise and she was struck in the back of the head. Luckily, she was driving at a slower speed and no other cars were around, she nearly went completely into the other lane. Had other cars been on the road, there would have been an accident. We took the car to the dealership when it happened with the passenger headrest a couple of years ago and the guy told us he ordered the parts to fix it, but it would take six months. We went back and he no longer works there an never ordered any parts. Since only my wife drives this car, we just let it go about the passenger headrest and moved on. I believe this is in regards to recalls S61 & T56. Both headrests are deployed and cannot be reset. To make matters worse, now the airbag warning light is illuminated at all times. An issue with airbags can be very serious and very dangerous if not addressed. After speaking on the phone with FCA customer care, I was told this was fixed in 2014 (2-3 years before the recall was issued) & that it was out of warranty. I do not believe it was fixed, maybe someone inspected the car, but it was not repaired. The dealer wants to charge me $1,000 to replace the headrests and that is something I cannot do. The recall site states "Safety recalls include any problem encountered with an FCA US LLC product related to the safe operation of the vehicle or the safety of the occupants. FCA US LLC will correct the problem, at no charge, even if the vehicle is out of warranty and you are not the original owner." this clearly does not matter to Chrysler. I have no other choice but to drive the vehicle with the airbag warnings on. I am hoping you can help. This is my last resort. It has not been inspected by the manufacturer and there were no warning lights prior to this.

Multiple issues, passenger window is a very common issue, looked on YouTube and found many videos for it was able to jump with direct power to the pigtail using wires and a battery and was able to roll it up but no explanation for why it ends up having this issue, heater core also a consistent issue, it is obvious with passenger side goes cold and 95% of the fix is a new heater core. Headrests popping, had the safety recall done 02chz28 (Recall S61) and never was mentioned or brought up by local dealer, both seatbelts are not functioning properly, passenger side is the worst, locks up and both are running along the plastic causing it to become deformed and wearing on the edges of the belts. Vehicle has obvious replacements on the front but no accident history. Hood is a different vin number and grill is not original from factory. I found the original photo of the car's first sale post. Odd malfunction is washer fluid can run out with no indicator being triggered for low fluid.

While driving the car is in process.. the engine will suddenly stop (stall). I loose all power to the car and is unable to stop the car or control the speed or any other functions of the car. The only way to stop the car immediately is to manually use the emergency breaks. My 3.6 liter engine is having the same engine defect as the 2.4 2000 Chrysler 200 engine N52... causing it to malfunction. Also sometimes when trying to start the car while turning the key in the ignition the engine begin to flood on its on and get completely stuck in that position..and become unable to process to start and run. For about a year and a half I have been back and forth to the auto mechanic paying so much money trying to figure out what is going on with my car. Unable to fix of com up with a solution. My car has been more undrivable,in the shop and and unsafe then it has been driven. The last time I was driving my car with my [XXX] [XXX] child in the car the engine power failed and I was unable to stop .. we where coming on a 4 way traffic light going at full speed.. my light had turned red. Nothing I would do would stop or slow the car down. I'm so happy my child knows to pull the emergency breaks... He saved our life. This has happened multiple times B4 this last time but never to this extent. It seems the longer this issue is going the worst it's becoming. I began doing research on Chrysler 200 to see if anyone one else may have been having this issue to hopefully find a solution. because this is my only car and I have put everything I have into this to get this car and to fix this car.. when I looked in to recalls I found that the 2.4 liter engine for the 2000 Chrysler 200 was having the same engine defect as my 2013 Chrysler 200 3.6 liter engine.. . So I would like to make a vehicle complaint about my car's engine defect causing the engine to malfunction which is a safety issue. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I’ve had to replace the alternator twice in 7 months. The car has turned off both of these instances while I was driving. I’ve spent a lot of money on parts, labor, and towing. When I am parked, the RPM goes up and down, it sounds like I am accelerating but I am not. When I come to a stop, the RPM jolts up. When I am at a complete stop, and ready to drive, the car jolts forward as if it were pushed.

Car stalled while going down highway. Engine light not on, has gas, no over heating. 3rd time this has happened. Wait a couple hours and it starts with no problem. I was told by mechanic it was probably just bad gas and not to worry. Cause no codes came up. Then today i was almost hit.

The contact owns a 2013 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while driving 10 MPH and slowing down, the vehicle lost motive power and stalled without warning. The contact pulled over and waited until the vehicle cooled down. The vehicle was restarted and operated normally. The vehicle was taken to the dealer however, the mechanic did not find any failure with the vehicle. The contact stated that the failure reoccurred while stopped at a traffic light. The manufacturer was contacted and stated that the vehicle needed to be diagnosed. The failure mileage was 120,000.

Got my 2013 Chrysler 200 limited in March 2022 , car would stall and lose power about a couple times a week , took to garage they said it was the psm either had to be replaced or reset , but soon after that my heat stopped working on passanger side blew cold and driver side blew earm , now back on to the stalling , my fiance noticed when checking things under hood that the battery was grounded on top but he said from where it's grounded they should have never painted it , but cleared paint off area and corrosion off the battery terminals and areas and My car has not stalled out again

My first complaint is that my car stalls as I am actively driving. Whether I am using cruise control or physically pressing the gas pedal, the car just stalls out and I lose control of all steering function & have to try to get to the shoulder before I get slammed into on the highway. This happens at least twice weekly, all hours of the day or night, regardless of the weather or how much gas is in the tank, and I almost always have my children with me.There are not one, but TWO recalls for this specific issue which I just found today after months of Internet searching because I never received any notices.The recalls are Chrysler campaign N52 and NHTSA campaign 13v043000 - so how is it that those recalls don't apply to MY particular 2013 Chrysler 200? My second complaint is about the horn, and I'm not the only person who has dealt with this one either, there are several online forums... When I manually press the horn on the steering column, nothing happens. No sound, no beeps, no honks, nada. If I need to alert someone of my presence, I can't.(This actually caused me to get hit by another driver who was on her phone last December, and I saw her coming at me but I couldn't alert her). Now just because I can't manually make the horn go beep, doesn't mean it does not work. Oh it works. There's a horn in there some where that just randomly honks, every day, sometimes I'm driving, sometimes I'm in my house. The honks can be little blips or short beeps, but most of the time, it's just one very, very long continuous honk. When I'm driving and this happens people think I'm having an emergency and all start to move over to the far right lane, which is just dangerous. If I cause a wreck over distracting other drivers it wouldn't be good. I did have it looked at, the mechanic plugged in the diagnostic computer & said there was no error code and he couldn't see anything immediately that would cause the issue, so it was most likely electric and he'd need a code to know more.

The contact owns a 2013 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving approximately 35-40 MPH and approaching a four-way stop, the brake pedal was depressed and the vehicle inadvertently stalled and lost electrical power. The contact was able to restart the vehicle and continued to drive. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the failure had been reoccurring while driving. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the battery and unknown sensors needed to be replaced. The contact stated that the vehicle was repaired; however, the failure persisted. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 84,000.

About 2yrs ago I had my alternator replaced when I broke down 2hrs from home by Jd ByRider in Owensboro Ky and yesterday I was driving down the street when I noticed my car wouldn’t kick into gear at 35mph. I got to the stop sign when traction light and ABS lights and brake light lit up on my dash and my stereo clock went black! I shut it off Tried to start it back and it just clicked. After finally getting it to start back up, on my message center it read rear lamp bulb out and dash just started flashing different things. It was so fast that I couldn’t catch every light that flashed. JD ByRyder replaced the alternator for me as my car was under warranty at that time. I’ve also had electrical problems with power windows and charging components in my car. When my car did this yesterday my wheel locked and I wasn’t able to steer or anything so it posed a safety risk of crashing. This is a repeated problem and it needs to be checked into as it could’ve been very fatal should I had been on a highway going faster than 35mph. You can get the repair invoice from JD ByRyder in Owensboro under [XXX] 2013 Chrysler 200. Car is available for y’all to check upon request if needed. Due to covid I don’t have the money to have it repaired again. I also have grandchildren that are with me everytime I am in my car. This could’ve been a serious fatal accident. Email me with results from this [XXX] and my phone number is [XXX] call or text if need to get in touch with me faster than emailing. Thank you and god bless. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

SEVERAL ISSUES. HORN BLOWS RANDOMLY. WIPERS COME ON FOR NO REASON. ENGINE STALLS DRIVING AT SPEEDS 60 MPH. MAY START AFTER SEVERAL TRIES. MAY NOT START UNTIL SEVERAL TRIES. HORN WILL ALSO BLOW WITH ENGINE OFF AND MONKEYS IN IGNITION.

VEHICLE DIED WHILE DRIVING 40-45 MPH IN TRAFFIC WOULD NOT RESTART UNTIL AFTER SITTING FOR 30 MIN TO 2 HOURS. THERE WAS NO WARNING BEFORE IT DIED, IT WAS RUNNING NORMALLY. AFTER IT RESTARTED THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT FLASHED THEN STAYED ON SOLID FOR A COUPLE DAYS. I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE CRANKSHFT POSITION SENSOR SO I HAD THAT REPLACED. THE CAR THEN 3 WEEKS LATER WHILE DRIVING STARTED CHUGGING REALLY BAD. I WAS THEN TOLD THE IGNITION COIL ON #2 CYLINDER WAS MISFIRING. I HAD THAT REPLACED ALONG WITH ALL SPARK PLUGS AND CAR RAN THE SAME AFTER DRIVING 4-5 MILES THEN DIED AND NO RESTART. THE REPAIR SHOP FOUND THE #2 IGNITION COIL MELTED INTO THE VALVE COVER AND IT HAD ALSO CRACKED THE VALVE COVER. THEY REPLACED THE VALVE COVER AND THE #2 IGNITION COIL AND IT HAPPENED AGAIN. THE CAR IS CURRENTLY AT THE CHRYSLER DEALERSHIP AND PREMLIMINARY ESTIMATE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM SENDING TOO MUCH VOLTAGE TO THAT CYLINDER.SO FAR THERE HAS BEEN 2 IGNITION COILS MELTED. I HAVE BEEN WITHOUT ABILITY TO DRIVE MY CAR FOR 4 WEEKS NOW. PLEASE PUT A RECALL ON THIS PROBLEM !

VEHICLE RANDOMLY STALLS DURING OPERATION. THIS OCCURRED AT AN INTERSTATE INTERSECTION. IT CAN OCCUR AT RANDOM TIMES AND THROWS NO CODE. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS DEFECT IN THESE VEHICLES.

THIS IS MY SECOND COMPLIANT, THOUGH I SHOULD'VE BEEN COMPLAINING SINCE BUYING THIS VEHICLE IN JUNE 2016. MY CAR WOULDN'T START AND THE ENGINE WOULD STALL, NO BATTERY ISSUE. ALL OF A SUDDEN A MONTH LATER IT STARTED. I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC HE SAID THE ENGINE LIGHT SAID A CATALYTIC CONVERTER...BUT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER DOES NOT NEED REPLACED. I HAVE HAVE MY SERPENTINE BELT REPLACED 7 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 YEARS. I CAN HEAR MY ENGINE SHIFTING ROUGHLY. IN THE MONTH I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE, I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TO SEE WHAT WAS WRONG AND WHY MY RPM WAS GOING UP WHEN PARKED AND THE ENGINE WOULD STALL. THEY TOLD ME IF I DIDN'T USE THE DIFFERENT FUEL (WHICH I ONLY DID TWICE) THAT IT WOULD STOP. I WAS STUCK WITH THE CAR, AND STILL AM. MY 'GAS CAP' LIGHT HAS BEEN GOING ON AND OFF FOR YEARS. I HAD MY FUEL SYSTEM CHECKED AND A VALVE WAS REPLACED, SENSORS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. MY ENGINE NOW SOUNDS WORSE THAN EVER WITH KNOCKING, WHIRRING AND SHAKES ALMOST ALWAYS. I'M TOLD THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE AND/OR THE ENGINE TENSIONER BUT NO ONE CAN TRULY PINPOINT THE ISSUE....IT'S EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING. PLEASE RECALL THIS LEMON. I HAVE TOLD EVERYONE POSSIBLE TO NEVER BUY THIS BRAND OF VEHICLE. THIS PURCHASE WAS THE WORST MISTAKE OF MY LIFE.

I DOING 70MPH ON THE FWY AND THE CAR JUST LOST POWER. I TOOK IT TO A SHOP AND THEY SAID IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP. I HAD IT REPLACED. 1 WEEK LATER I TRIED TO START THE CAR AND IT WOULD NOT START. I CALLED AAA AND WHEN THEY CAME THE CAR STARTED. THE SAME DAY I WAS ON THE FWY AND THE ENGINE SHUT DOWN AGAIN. I WAS TERRIFIED AS A BIG RIG WAS RIGHT BEHIND ME. I CALLED THE MECHANIC AND HAD THE CAR TOWED TO HIS SHOP. HE TESTED IT AND SAID THE FUEL PUMP MUST BE BAD. WE REPLACED IT AGAIN. THE CAR SEEMED TO RUN FINE. PLEASE NOTE I ONLY DRIVE 5 TO 10 MILES A DAY. I WAS ON THE FWY AGAIN THIS WEEK AND THE ENGINE QUIT AGAIN. I WENT ONLINE TO SEE IF I WAS THE ONLY ONE HAVING THIS KIND OF PROBLEM AND FOUND DOZENS OF PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. I WAS VERY DISHARDEN TO LEARN THERE WAS NO RECALL FOR THIS. I WAS ALMOST INVOLVED IN 2 SERIOUS WRECKS ON THE FWY. I CALLED MY LOCAL CHRYSLER DEALER TO BE TOLD THERE WAS NOTHING THEY CAN DO. PLEASE ADVISE