There are 50 owner-reported electrical system complaints for the 2007 Chevrolet Silveradoin NHTSA's database. These are unverified consumer reports and may not reflect confirmed defects.
No crank no start however engine just shit down while driving immediately lost all control of vehicle! Luckily I had just pulled off highway! No warning whatsoever it just happened out of no where now won’t start and has a u0100 code
The Keyless Entry Receiver(GM) Radio Module in my 2007 Chevy Silverado is retaining moisture. It caused my Tire Pressure Monitoring System to fail eventually causing a blow out on the highway. I believe moisture from the third headlight above rear window is allowing moisture to drip into the Keyless Entry Receiver. There are many accounts of this failing, I’m not sure why this has not been recalled. I nearly died.
There is a short in the wiring (and has been for a long time) for the heater and the radio
Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. The contact stated that while attempting to trade the vehicle, it was discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 91,000 and at the time of registration, it was discovered that the mileage was 250,000.
My father purchased this truck brand new and inherited it from my father when he passed away. The truck has just under 100,000 miles on it and the service trailer brake system light came on in the dash. I have tried to reset it and it still comes right back. The truck hasn't ever been used commercially only as personal use. It is the only vehicle that I own and I don't know what to do I am disabled and I need help
Water leaked in thru antenna on roof and throttle paddle code p2138
Water leaked in thru antenna on roof and code p2138
I BOUGHT A 2007 SILVERADO TRUCK FROM A DEALER WITH OUT THE WARRANTY,BUT WERE TOLD LATER THAT IF YOU DO NOT BUY THE WARRANTY WE DO NOT FIX ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE TRUCK.IT HAD SAFTEY ISSUES LIKE THE LICENSE PLATE LIGHTS WERE NOT WORKING,BAD TIRE STEM,WIPPERS CONTROL NOT WORKING ALL THE TIME,AND A BAD REAL SEAL LEAK PUTTING OIL ON THE ROADS.WHEN I TOLD THEM ABOUT THIS THEY MADE NO EFFERTED TO FIX THESE SAFTEY ISSUSE,
2007 Silverado 1500. Has had a situation where truck acts a dead battery or no battery in the truck. Conditions are no start, key fob will remote start truck then truck dies all electrical in truck works. Have dad CD player shoveling cds when no key in truck. Air and heat switch’s back and forth. Door locks cycle up and down. Have to reset radio and clock after the power failed. This is not from a dead battery. All I do to reset it all is to put a battery booster to battery terminals and switch booster on and off. Truck is back to normal. Most recent advent was all this at 1 time. Door locks cycle, radio turns on and off, ac changes to heat, low fuel and seat belt alarms start sounding, instrument cluster act irrationally, speed odometer goes from 20 to60 back and forth with truck cutting off at 20 and powering to 60. After several miles of driving everything is back to normal and I drive straight to my mechanic. Cut the truck off and Bingo, acts like there is not a battery in the truck. Nothing at all electrical. Total silence. I have had minor electrical since truck was almost new. I always carry a booster pack and it worked to start truck and get me home. Now for what my mechanic found after my last disaster. There is a high amperage fuse block located under your fuse box in the engine bay. There is 2 threaded studs for wires that feed your trucks electrical. Studs had never had ant nuts on them to hold the wires secure and after 14 years of total aggravation and fear of an accident or fire. I hope truck is fixed for good. GM dealers would blow me off with any excuse why they couldn’t find a problem. They wanted to sell batteries , Pcms and ecms. The reason this becomes a safety problem is a chance of total power failing while in traffic being rear ended or worse. There really should be a recall for these trucks and checked. I’ve read hundreds of remarks from people with these same issues. I hope this helps. I am thankful to have a mechanic who will research.
Problems with a throttle control correlation between throttle pedal and throttlebody I have been to several places and the issue is not resolved. I have replaced everything on the throttle control system and I can’t get an answer from anybody what’s going on
MY TRUCK WILL RANDOMLY TURN OFF TRACTION CONTROL AND STABILITY TRAC AND IT CAUSES IT TO SHIFT HARD AND SPIN OUT AND IT DAMAGES MY TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE I HAD THE TRANSMISSION REBUILT ONCE ALLREADY AND NEW TRANSFER CASE CONTROL MODULE AND IT STILL DOES IT MY TRUCK SMELLS LIKE BURNING WIRES AND IT'S SAYING MY TRUCK OVERHEATS WHEN IT'S NOT MANY MANY PEPOLE HAVE THIS PROBLEM AND THE CHEVY DEALERSHIPS ONLY SAY THEY FIXED IT AND IT ALWAYS COMES BACK NO MATTER WHAT THEY DO IT HAS SERIOUS GROUND ISSUES AND I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE IT RESOLVED EVERYTHING IS SHORTING OUT MY RADIO MY SEATS MY DOOR SWITCHES AND WINDOW SWITCHES BRAKE LIGHTS AND THE TRANSMISSION TOO I'VE HAD IT REBUILT AND THE SPEED SENSOR ON TRANSMISSION REPLACED 3 TIMES I HAVE LIKE NO GOOD GROUND IN THE HARNESS AND THIS TRUCK IS REALLY COSTING ME A LOT OF MONEY I PUT IT TO U THIS WAY WHEN THE TRACTION CONTROL AND STABILITY TRAC DOESN'T GO OFF EVERYTHING WORKS FINE AND WHEN IT DOES GO OFF EVERYTHING SHORTS OUT IT WILL DO IT ON AND OFF DRIVEING SITTING ANYTHING ONE NIGHT I TURN IT OFF WITH NO PROBLEM I CRANK IT UP IN THEN MORNING AND EVERYTHING MESSES UP PLEASE HELP TO GET ME AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO HAS THIS PROBLEM FIXED AND THE GUY THAT I BOUGHT IT FROM SAID AT 100000 MILES HE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND HE TOOK IT TO THE SHOP AND HAS NEVER HAD THE ISSUES SOLVED ONLY TEMPORARILY AND IT ALWAYS COMES BACK
MY TRUCK WILL RANDOMLY TURN OFF TRACTION CONTROL AND STABILITY TRAC AND IT CAUSES IT TO SHIFT HARD AND SPIN OUT AND IT DAMAGES MY TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE I HAD THE TRANSMISSION REBUILT ONCE ALLREADY AND NEW TRANSFER CASE CONTROL MODULE AND IT STILL DOES IT MY TRUCK SMELLS LIKE BURNING WIRES AND IT'S SAYING MY TRUCK OVERHEATS WHEN IT'S NOT MANY MANY PEPOLE HAVE THIS PROBLEM AND THE CHEVY DEALERSHIPS ONLY SAY THEY FIXED IT AND IT ALWAYS COMES BACK NO MATTER WHAT THEY DO IT HAS SERIOUS GROUND ISSUES AND I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE IT RESOLVED EVERYTHING IS SHORTING OUT MY RADIO MY SEATS MY DOOR SWITCHES AND WINDOW SWITCHES BRAKE LIGHTS AND THE TRANSMISSION TOO I'VE HAD IT REBUILT AND THE SPEED SENSOR ON TRANSMISSION REPLACED 3 TIMES I HAVE LIKE NO GOOD GROUND IN THE HARNESS AND THIS TRUCK IS REALLY COSTING ME A LOT OF MONEY I PUT IT TO U THIS WAY WHEN THE TRACTION CONTROL AND STABILITY TRAC DOESN'T GO OFF EVERYTHING WORKS FINE AND WHEN IT DOES GO OFF EVERYTHING SHORTS OUT IT WILL DO IT ON AND OFF DRIVEING SITTING ANYTHING ONE NIGHT I TURN IT OFF WITH NO PROBLEM I CRANK IT UP IN THEN MORNING AND EVERYTHING MESSES UP PLEASE HELP TO GET ME AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO HAS THIS PROBLEM FIXED AND THE GUY THAT I BOUGHT IT FROM SAID AT 100000 MILES HE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND HE TOOK IT TO THE SHOP AND HAS NEVER HAD THE ISSUES SOLVED ONLY TEMPORARILY AND IT ALWAYS COMES BACK
I HAVE HAD AN ISSUE WITH MY 2007 CHEVY SILVERADO JERKING WITH A HARD THUMP WHILE ACCELERATING. AT FIRST IT WAS DIAGNOSES AS A FAULTY THROTTLE BODY. REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY. NOW IT INTERMITTENTLY PULLS HARD WHEN ACCELERATING AT ANY SPEED. THIS CANNOT BE SAFE. DEALERSHIPS CANNOT FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE AND I AM HAVING TROUBLE GOOGLING ANY SPECIFIC REASON. MANY PEOPLE HAVE THIS SAME ISSUE WITH LITTLE TO RESOLUTION. THIS IS INTERMITTENTLY SO IT THE STABILITRAC AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS COME ON AND OFF WITHIN MINUTES. IT WAS HAPPENING A FEW TIMES A WEEKS AND NOW IT IS HAPPENING A FEW TIMES A DAY. THIS CANNOT BE GOOD FOR THE SAFETY OF THE VEHICLE ON THE ROAD OR THE PEOPLE IN IT.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH FAILED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE KEY WAS PLACED INTO THE IGNITION, THE KEY FAILED TO TURN. THE VEHICLE WAS DIAGNOSED BY A CERTIFIED MECHANIC DIAGNOSED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT A NEW IGNITION SWITCH WAS NEEDED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 110,000. *BF CONSUMER STATED IT RECURS MULTIPLE TIMES.*JB
WHEN I TRY STARTING THE TRUCK IT MAKES A CLICKING SOUND LIKE IT WANTS TO TURN OVER AND THEN WON'T. SOMETIMES IT NEVER HAPPENS AND OTHER TIMES IT MAY TAKE THREE OR FOUR TIMES OF TRYING TO GET IT TO START BEFORE IT WILL. THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND CONTINUED TO STAY ON. TOOK IT TO A CHEVY DEALER AND WAS PLACED ON THE DIAGNOSTIC COMPUTER AND I WAS TOLD CODES FOUND WERE PO174 AND PO171. SMOKE TEST WAS PERFORMED ON EVAP SYSTEM AND INDUCTION SYSTEM. FOUND LEAKS AT THE PCV HOSE, PURGE VALVE HOSES AND PURGE VALVE IS STUCK OPEN. THESE WERE REMOVED AND REPLACED BOTH PURGE VALVE HOSES, PURGE VALVE AND PCV HOSE. $523.80 LATER THE PROBLEM IS STILL NOT FIXED.
DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCKS AND CANT GET IT OPEN . HAVE TO ENTER BY GOING THRU THE OTHER SIDE. THEN SOME TIMES GOING DOWN THE ROAD IT WILL UNLOCK AND DECIDE TO OPEN.SOME TIMES IF I AM DRIVING IT AND WERE I AM GOING GET THERE I CANT GET OUT. THEN I HAVE TO EXIT THRU THE OTHER DOOR. I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING . *TR
NEW ENGINE PLACED IN VEHICLE BECAUSE LOSS OF POWER. SINCE THEN VEHICLE LOOSES ALL POWER IN THE MIDST OF DRIVING. ALARM ALSO GOES OFF WITHOUT NOTICE. NEW BATTERY, THEN NEW ALTERNATOR, AND NOW NEW ENGINE BATTERY CABLES. WAS TOLD NO POWER TO ENGINE THEN TOO MUCH POWER. ABOUT $1,500.00 OUT OF POCKET TO GET FIXED. TRUCK CONTINUES TO SHUT OFF AND LOOSE ALL POWER WHEN DRIVING IN THE CITY.
DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ON APRIL 20 2019 NOTHING OUT OF THE ORDINARY GOING ON, I PULL INTO MY DRIVEWAY PUT MY TRUCK INTO PARK AND I GO TO TO ROLL MY WINDOWS UP, POWER WINDOWS, AND THE PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW WON'T GO UP AND MY PASSENGER REAR WINDOW WON'T GO UP OR DOWN BUT I CAN HEAR THE SWITCH CLICKING BUT CAN'T HEAR THE SWITCH IN THE FRONT PASSENGER, THEN I TEST THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT, POWER ALSO, IT DOESN'T WORK, THE RED ARROW TURN SIGNAL ON PASSENGER SIDE MIRROR ISN'T LIGHTING UP EITHER AND WHEN I OPEN THE PASSENGER DOOR MY INTERIOR LIGHT DOESN'T COME ON BUT OPEN DRIVER SIDE DOOR INTERIOR LIGHT COMES ON AND THE DRIVER SIDE SEAT DOESN'T WORK EITHER, POWER, GO TO CHECK MY FUSES ALL BUT ONE IS OK, LOCATED UNDER HOOD ON DRIVER SIDE, FUSE BLOCK 71 IS BLOWN, J CASE LOW PROFILE 60 AMP FUSE, I BUY ANOTHER 60A J CASE LOW PROFILE FUSE GO TO INSTALL IT AND AS SOON AS THE TERMINALS TOUCH, BLOWN FUSE. I EVEN DISCONNECTED BATTERY THEN INSTALLED ANOTHER FUSE, SAME ONE, RECONNECTED BATTERY, FUSE BLOWS. PLEASE TELL ME WHAT CAN BE THE PROBLEM AND HOW TO FIX IT, THANK YOU
WHEN TRYING TO TURN THE KEY ON TO START THE ENGINE , THE KEY WILL NOT TURN UNLESS WIGGLED QUITE A BIT OR ROTATED REPEATEDLY IN A CIRCLE BEFORE GETTING UN-STUCK AND TURNING LETTING ME START THE TRUCK.
FRONT PASSENGER SIDE HEAD LIGHT CONNECTOR MELTS AT CONNECTION TO THE BULB. HEADLIGHT WILL NOT WORK CAUSING MAJOR VISIBILITY ISSUES AND POSES A FIRE RISK. HAVE REPLACED CONNECTOR NOW 2 TIMES, SO HAVE HAD A TOTAL OF 3 CONNECTORS MELT. HEADLIGHT WORKED FINE AFTER REPLACEMENT THEN SHUT VEHICLE OFF FOR WORK DAY WHEN STARTED TO VEHICLE TO GO HOME HEADLIGHT NO LONGER WORKED.
Showing 1–20 of 50 complaints
Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA. A high complaint count may reflect vehicle popularity, not defect severity. Data sourced from NHTSA public records.
Data synced from NHTSA on Apr 26, 2026