2005 Ford Escape

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2005 Ford Escape on November 25, 2025. The contact discovered a mileage and VIN discrepancy after the purchase. The vehicle was a dealer sale. At the time of purchase, the mileage was 199,500. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for a routine inspection, and the dealer informed the contact that during the diagnostic test there was another VIN was associated with the vehicle, and the mileage listed on the diagnostic test was 199,345. The other VIN linked in the diagnostic test for the vehicle was associated with a 2006 Ford Escape, and the mileage was 199,345. It was later discovered that the dealer who had sold the vehicle to the contact had purchased the vehicle in 2018, and the mileage was 199,876. The contact stated that the mileage on the reverse side of the Title was 199,876. The Police were notified; however, no assistance was provided.

I bought a 2005 Ford escape the VIN number on the dash and the title do match however the ECU and the door jamb VIN [XXX] which is for a 2006 Ford escape 4 cylinder 2.3. the vehicle I bought should be a 6 cylinder with a 3.0 l the mechanic says mismatched VIN the dealership refuses to listen. About the vehicle on [XXX] drove it 30 miles then was able to call the mechanic for some maintenance as his car was for my daughter and that is when I got to bad news of a mismatched VIN. Not even your odometer reading is correct has less on it now than it did back in 2018 and it's documented as accurate. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I had just started up my 05 Ford hybrid Escape reversed out of a parking space, applied my brakes and a loud warning noise went off, the ABS light & the Brake light went on, then I tried to brake while backing out of the parking stall. I had no brakes, petal went all the way to the floor. I shifted into drive to pull forward. The car wouldn’t stop petal just went right to the floor, had very little resistance. I almost drove through the front glass doors of the P/T office across from the pharmacy in Cool, CA. The roads are mountainous windy and steep. I was definitely scared for my safety. I had to coast very slowly on the way home. I was on my way to work but instead I dropped it off at home and called ride share to take me to work! I had to use my emergency brake to make the turn up my dirt road. I still had little to no brakes to stop the car. I parked it and haven’t driven it since. Much to dangerous to drive this car. I could have easily been killed not having brakes. It Showed no codes, had no warning at all. I just bought the car about 6 months prior. The next day it was as if it never happened.

Front Subframe rusted out causing loss of steering and control. Car came to a complete skidded stop . The front wheel nearly came off. The subframe issue is the same problem that resulted in a recall of the 2001-2004 Ford Escape.

The right lower control arm separated from the subframe due to subframe rust. It caused loss of handling and rendered the car immobile. It was caused by a panic stop at a low speed. The car was towed to an independent garage where it is awaiting repair. Parts affected were the subframe, CV axle joint and the front fender (From the wheel hitting it when it broke).

The contact owns a 2005 Ford Escape. Upon starting of the vehicle, the contact placed the vehicle into drive(D); however, the vehicle failed to accelerate upon the depression of the accelerator pedal. The contact stated that prior to the failure, the check engine warning light illuminated and remained illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact stated while driving at highway speeds, the vehicle independently downshifted and the vehicle failed to accelerate above 30 MPH. The vehicle was shaking, and the vehicle failed to accelerate upon the depression of the accelerator pedal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where and the contact was informed that the transmission torque converter was defective and needed to be replaced. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 105,000.

The right back tire shock and spring mount broke right off

Hello, The engine cradle subframe on my 2005 Ford Escape has completely rusted through on the right hand side where it attaches to the steering control arm. As I was driving the subframe broke which made it impossible to steer the car. This pulled my car off the road to the passenger side. Fortunately I was not injured. Having now researched this issue, it is a common problem with 2005 Ford Escapes. This is very dangerous, and it should be addressed as it creates a life threatening situation.

I had the hybrid battery replaced by Bill Brandt Ford in Brentwood California. A few days after having it replaced. The car broke down on a very dangerous highway. I had the car towed back to Bill Brandt Ford. They replaced the hybrid battery again. I received the car back on May 9. The car just broke down again today. Roughly Bill Brandt Ford had my car for over 250 days. I found a recall one for S as in Sam 19 for my vehicle when I type in the Vin number it says that it doesn’t pertain to my car. But when I look at the recall issue, my car is having the exact same problems. Now I need to have the car towed back yet again to the dealership. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have over $3000 invested in this car now with Bill Brandt Ford and they’ve had it longer than I’ve had it.

Stalled out while driving down hwy. At 70 mph. Cars swirved and I almost got hit from behind due to my vehicle just cutting out. No warning lights came on it just shut off battery light n engine light then came on after vehicle lost power and I had to get off road without causing an accident which almost occurred due to the speed and area I was driving at time vehicle cut out I still have not figured out why it just cut out. Very dangerous all around.

My rear passenger side rusted right out completely and the strut mount is not attached to any part of the body. It caused my vehicle to swirve off the road almost hitting another vehicle when it was raining out also in the snow this occurred several times where my rear end jerked sideways pulling my truck into a complete circle.

I was heading back to Louisville Ky from bowling green Ky when my suv started to slow down and started running rough and check engine light flashed then stayed on I pulled off the road called aaa to have the suv towed back to bowling green to where I could have it checked the next day when I went to start it it was knocking and smoking and wouldn’t take gas. Talked to a local shop and was informed that my motor was blown after he came and looked at it.

Rear driver's side door will not close/latch. Latch can be manually moved, but does not engage when shutting door. Currently using bungee cords to keep door closed as I have children and no other vehicle. Vehicle was parked, door was opened from inside to allow passenger to exit, but when they attempted to shut the door, it would not latch closed. No prior problems with the door and no prior warnings/lights. Since door won't close, the door ajar dash light is illuminated and I have to turn my interior lights to off so that they don't remain on while I'm driving

Drove vehicle to drop off dog at sitters, started vehicle began to make u-turn and vehicle stalled. Attempted to restart, cranks but won't run. Recently purchased from used car dealer, new battery was installed, no trouble up to this point. Began checking usual problems, fuel delivery, crank pos.sensor, cam pos sensor, have no spark. Upon further research this appears to be faulty coils, spark plugs and pcm from factory but no recall has been employed. Possibility of collision during u-turn very likely. Loss of power to all systems could cause extreme risk to life at higher speeds. Ford Motor Company is aware of this problem, with the high number of similar problems in the NHTSA data base it is impossible for them not to know. The NHTSA should force Ford to fix this. If you make a product that can be dangerous if faulty, you are responsible to the public to do the right thing. I think that if the governmental agency responsible for traffic safety won't do their job then a class action lawsuit should be started. I bet I could find a good lawyer in the SF Bay area.

The contact owns a 2005 Ford Escape. The contact stated while his son was driving 30 MPH, the vehicle turned off inadvertently. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact's son shifted into neutral(N) and veered to the side of the road. The contact's son was able to restart the vehicle after several attempts. The contact's son then drove to his residence. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 90,000.

unknown

The contact owns a 2005 Ford Escape. The contact stated that after her father inspected the vehicle, he made her aware that there was damage to the rear subframe. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that the rear subframe needed to be replaced. The contact became aware of NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V165000 (Structure); however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000. The VIN was not available.

This is 2nd time this week car gives no warning, stalls, shuts down while driving for no reason. Happened to a friend about 1 mile from our home. Just totally shuts down. After about up to 10 minutes, able to restart and return home, was mid morning. Last night at 9pm we were driving down about 1 mile from home, no warning and stalled and shut down. We were terrified, was pitch black, no lights and almost ran off into a ditch! Had to used the light on my phone to shine in case traffic was coming. After about 10 terrifying minutes, car restarted and we were able to turn around and return home. This 2005 Ford Escape is unsafe to be on the road or driven. Its unknown what the problem is and in frar for my life and others if its out on the roads.

Front left tower rod is going thru the wheel well from rust. This can cause major damage to myself, occupants, and the lives of others outside of the vehicle. The front left seatbelt light continuously alarms as if it is not connected. Is it? The back lights are always out not sure to replacement repeatedly. I'd the seatbelt good enough in an accident, I am not trying to find that it either. The lights are a ticket every time and are another hazard to other motorist. The main wheel rust was told to me upon a failed inspection. It is not fixed at this point just found out and looking for recalls but found many with the same exact hazard. The warning lights go off every minute and a half while driving in the dashboard. This has been since I purchased the vehicle last year. The same goes for replacing the back running light. I don't know if the auto place was aware of these problems, but I'm positive the were just trying to move the vehicle if the lot at this point. The repairs are more than half of the cost just for the wheel rust hazard

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? Sudden unintended acceleration How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? The breaks wouldn't take and I ended up stopping when I hit a house Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? Called Ford for help and they said to file a report here. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? No my car has been always in great working condition