2011 Chrysler 300

While driving my child to school a short while ago today, my car accelerated on its own and would not brake. I was attempting to stop for an upcoming red light. The car accelerated without me pressing the gas and the brakes went completely out. I was able to avoid a collision. This lasted for under 1 minute, then suddenly the car decelerated and I was then able to brake.

bought the car 04/27/2023 check engine light came on 2 days after purchase, got a code read at autozone it was codep0302 its a misfire in cylinder 2 only causes vehicke to go into "limp mode" loses power dies whike driving 3 occassions. ive paid to get ut serviced twice and its still not fixed , causing driveabikitt/ emmissions/ecu concern.

1. Engine oil cooler assembly started leaking, due to oil cooler housing plastic cracked from oil changes at dealership. Leaking engine oil almost destroying engine due to lack of engine oil lubrication leaking on to the ground from the rear of vehicle and on to the ground. Vehicle was taken to the dealership and verified that the component has failed and that Chrylser has known of this issue for sometime. 2. I have replaced the bad blend door actuators multiple times on each side of the dashboard, due to the unbearable clicking noise within the dashboard and not letting the ventilation systems change directions in the vehicle.

CAN C BUS: its a typical issue with the 2011 Chrysler 300. The main code for the CAN C Bus "U000200" after the scan tool, the issues found are ABS Can C Bus off performance: BCM (Body Controller Module) Can C Bus off performance, SCCM (Steering Column Control Module) Can C Bus off performance, Radio Frequency Can C Bus off performance. All affect the safety and driveabilty of the car. The car drives and in the midst of driving the car stalls in traffic, the car vibrates really bad, the car seems to lose power on acceleration. Please take a look into this, as this is a common issue with the Chrysler 300.

I have had the vehicle towed 6 times, the vehicle goes completely dead, with new battery, once the vehicle sits for a half a day there is no power to start the car. I have talked to several other people and have had similar problems. I had car towed to Chrysler dealer ship and they said they did not want to work on it? There should be a recall, I have had many Chrysler vehicles but never this type of problem with the electrical. If you park my car on Friday when I get off work, by Monday morning it is completely dead. I have had the vehicle to two local car repair and electrical shops to no avail. (both shop owners said this is a Chrysler manufacture problem) I can be reached at [XXX]. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

CAR BEGAN TO LOOSE POWER UNDER PRESSURE, ENGINE LIGHT WOULD FLASH. USUALLY WHEN COLD OR PULLING HARD ON A HILL OR PASSING. ENGINE RAN ROUGH, MISFIRING AND OUT OF BALANCE. COULD NOT CONTINUE TO PASS ON ONE OCCASSION; HAD TO PULL BACK, WRANGLE OUT OF TRAFFIC AND STOP VEHICLE. MISDIAGNOSED: REPLACED PLUGS, COIL & INJECTOR ON VALVE #5. DID NOT CORRECT. FINALLY DIAGNOSED AS BAD CAMSHAFT. VEHICLE HAS A HEMI. TECHNICIAN STATED HE HAS REPLACED MANY OF THESE ON VARIOUS ENGINES WITH A HEMI IN A FOUR YEAR RANGE. STATED IT IS A COMMON FAILURE ON THOSE VEHICLES BUT NOT LISTED ON A RECALL. THIS FAILURE IS A SAFETY HAZARD. HAVING EXPECTATIONS OF THE VEHICLE TO ACCELERATE QUICKLY, AS IT NORMALLY WOULD, NEARLY CAUSED ME TO GET INTO AN ACCIDENT. ADDITIONALLY BOGGED DOWN TRAFFIC AS THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT CONTINUE AT A SPEED OVER 45 MPH. TRAFFIC BECAME BOTTLENECKED BEHIND ME ON THE INTERSTATE UNTIL I COULD WRANGLE TO THE SHOULDER. I ALSO OWN A DODGE RAM TRUCK IN THE SAME YEAR RANGE AND HAVE BEEN ADVISED BY THE TECHNICIAN TO BE PREPARED FOR IT TO GO OUT ON THAT VEHICLE ALSO.

CAR OVERHEATED MELTED WHILE DRIVING SENSOR READ COLD

TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF HIS WIFE WHO OWNS A 2011 CHRYSLER 300. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HIS WIFE WAS DRIVING AT A LOW SPEED, WITHOUT WARNING THE STEERING BECAME FIRM WHICH REQUIRED ADDITIONAL EFFORT TO MANEUVER THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE POWER STEERING MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. ADDITIONALLY, THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO ANOTHER INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR AN ILLUMINATED CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT CYLINDER HEAD GASKET AND ENGINE OIL COOLER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS REFERRED BY THE MANUFACTURER TO HAVE VEHICLE TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED WHICH WAS STILL PENDING. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,220.

2011 CHRYSLER 300 97000 MILES WHILE VEHICLE IS IN PARK PUSH THE ON OFF BUTTON VEHICLE WILL NOT TURN OFF DASH DISPLAYS VEHICLE NOT IN PARK! ITS BEEN DOING IT FOR AWHILE BUT GETTING WORSE.

I WAS HIT FROM BEHIND ON I 20 GOING WEST IN CONYERS APPROX. 5:45 IN MORNING. THERE WAS AN OBSTACLE IN MY RIGHT LANE. THIS OBSTACLES WAS A CAR BUMPER. MY INSURANCE HAS TOTALLY SAID MY CAR IS UN REPAIRABLE. THIS HAS CAUSE A HARDSHIP FOR ME

I HAVE THREE CHRYSLER, DODGE CARS AND ALL THREE OF THEM ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. CATALYTIC CONVERTER IS MESSING UP ON THREE OF THEM AT THE SAME TIME. ONE OF THEM IS A 2011 CHRYSLER 300 WITH ONLY 80,000 MILES, 2010 DODGE NITRO TRUCK WITH OVER 100,000 MILES AND A 2012 DODGE AVENGER OVER 100,000 MILES. I FEEL THAT DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP SHOULD HAVE THIS AS ONE OF THE RECALLS. THE 2010 DODGE NITRO TRUCK MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING JUST CUT OFF ON HER ON THE FREEWAY WHEN SHE STOPPED IN TRAFFIC. AND THE 2012 DODGE AVENGER IS SITTING UP IN MY DRIVE WAY NOT BEING DRIVEN BECAUSE OF ITS SO EXPENSIVE TO GET THEM REPAIRED. MY 2011 CHRYSLER 300 AND 2010 DODGE NITRO TRUCK IS GOING IN THE SHOP TO GET THE REPAIRS DONE, BUT I FEEL DODGE, CHRYSLER JEEP SHOULD BE EATING UP THE COST FOR THESE REPAIRS. THE DODGE TRUCK STOPPED ON HER OCT 15TH ON THE FREEWAY, DURING TRAFFIC HOURS.

CAMSHAFT / LIFTERS ARE PREMATURELY WEARING OUT( WIPED ) THE CAR IS THROWING A P0300 ,P0303 CODE BUT THE SPARK PLUGS,COILS ETC ARE FINE ..ENGINE SHAKES AND KNOCKS WHILE DRIVING THE SMELL OF GASOLINE IS EVIDENT LOSE OF POWER WHILE DRIVING ONLY 88000+ MILES

HEAVY GAS SMELL UPON FILL-UP. SEEMS TO BE INSIDE VEHICLE

"TAKATA RECALL" MY BLIND SPOT SENSORS ON MY CHRYSLER 300C AWD SAY'S THAT THEY NEED TO BE SERVICED AND THE LIGHTS REMAINING ON THE MIRRORS ALONG BY THE OBNOXIOUS BEEPING SOUND AND THE SCREEN TELLING ME OVER AND OVER AGAIN TO SERVICE THESE SENORS IS GOING TO CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. IT WENT FROM ONE CAR WASH TO MALFUNCTIONING ON AND OFF TO NOW THIS HAPPENS AT THE START OF THE VEHICLE AND WILL NOT STOP. I HAVE SEEN THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON COMPLAINT WITH OTHER OWNERS AND IF THERE IS SOMETHING THAT CAN BE DONE ABOUT IT AS IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE. MY CAR HAS ONLY 72K MILES ON IT AND OWNED A TAD OVER A YEAR. ALL THE FORUMS I GO TO THIS IS ONE OF THE MAIN ISSUES THAT I AM SEEING. IS THERE A WAY TO STOP THE CAR FROM BEEPING AND FLASHING ONCE THE MESSAGE HAS BEEN RECEIVED, THIS IS DANGEROUS!

THE ABS, TRACTION CONTROL AND PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WILL ALL SIMULTANEOUSLY AND RANDOMLY ILLUMINATE AND DISAPPEAR. I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PHYSICAL ISSUE WITH THE BRAKE OR CONTROL OF THE CAR. I SAW THERE WAS A RECALL BACK IN 2012 FOR THIS POSSIBLE SITUATION BUT I AM NOT SURE IF IT IS THE SAME OR IF MY VEHICLE WAS EVER RECALLED. I HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR ALMOST 4 YEARS. THIS ISSUE SEEMS TO BE VERY SPORADIC. WHILE STATIONARY AND DRIVING. SOMETIMES I WILL TURN THE CAR ON AND IT WILL BE THERE. SOMETIMES IT WON'T. IT HAS HAPPENED OVER THE LAST 2 YEARS. I LIVE WHERE IT SNOWS AND ONLY DRIVE THIS CAR IN THE WARM WEATHER MONTHS SO I HAVE YET TO LOOK INTO IT.

ON 5 SEPARATE OCCASIONS, THE VEHICLE INDICATED VEHICLE IS IN PARK. HOWEVER, THIS HAS HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION. ONCE, ON HIGHWAY AND REMAINING FOUR TIMES OCCURRED ON CITY STREETS. ON ALL 5 OCCASIONS, VEHICLE WOULD ALLOW ME TO PUT INTO PARK BUT WOULD NOT ALLOW ME TURN VEHICLE OFF. 4 OF 5 TIMES THIS OCCURRED, I DROVE AROUND WHILE OCCASIONALLY STOPPING TO PUT CAR INTO REVERSE AND BACK THRU GEARS AGAIN BEFORE IT'D FINALLY LET ME PARK AND TURN OFF. 1 OF 5 TIMES, THE CAR LET ME PUT INTO PARK AND PRESS START BUTTON UNTIL IT WENT TO 3RD SETTING BEFORE IT'D ALLOW ME TURN VEHICLE ME OFF. IN ADDITION, 2 TIMES THIS VEHICLE, WHILE IN MOTION ON CITY STREET, HAS SWITCHED INTO 1 OR 2 DRIVE GEAR WITHOUT MY PUTTING IT THERE. ONCE STOPPED, I HAD TO TRY GOING THRU GEARS MANY TIMES BEFORE IT'D LET ME RETURN TO D. MY BELIEF IS THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH SHIFTER OR PERHAPS AN ISSUE WITH WHATEVER TIES IN OR ATTACHED TO SHIFTER. I APOLOGIZE I'M NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED. I DO HAVE PICTURES AND A VIDEO OF CAR NOT SHUTTING OFF BECAUSE IT STATES IT'S IN PARK WHEN IT'S NOT.

STATIONARY IN PARKING LOT WOULD NOT START CAR WOULD NOT START

MY CAR IS CONSTANTLY SMELLING LIKE GAS AFTER FILL UPS AND FUEL PUMP HOUSING

I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE MY FRONT (STRUTS/SHOCKS) AND BACK (SHOCKS) SUSPENSION TWICE AND NO ONE CAN SEEM TO FIND OUT WHY IT KEEPS GOING OUT. THE FIRST TIME WAS AT ABOUT APPROX. 150,000 MILES & THEN AT EST. 215,000 THEY HAD TO BE REPLACED AGAIN UNDER THE FIRST WARRANTY WITHIN A 6 MONTH SPAN.

TAKATA RECALL CRUISE CONTROL DON'T WORK. HEATED SEATS DON'T WORK REAR BACK UP CAMERA DON'T WORKS CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ALWAYS ON, SOMETIMES DOOR ENTRY SENSES DON'T WORK, AND WHEN WIPERS IS ON DASH LIGHTS DIM